Jack points
#2
Here's a handy thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-aero-kit.html
The only approved jacking points are the 4 obvious ones along the side, and two under the front subframe. (See thread, or picture below.)
If you want to put it on jack stands with all four wheels off the ground, I do it by jacking up using the front side point, this raises the back side jacking point enough to get a stand under it. Then you can use the front sub frame point to raise the front side jacking point enough to get a stand under it.
In general, if I only want one side off the ground I use the subframe jacking point and balance the car on just the front side point with a stand.
Some people also swear by the 2x4 method using a chunk of wood to get access to both side jacking points off the ground at once.
Also be aware that the jacking points on newer cars are very fragile. You need to stuff them with something, like a chunk of wood or several places sell aluminium ones.
The only approved jacking points are the 4 obvious ones along the side, and two under the front subframe. (See thread, or picture below.)
If you want to put it on jack stands with all four wheels off the ground, I do it by jacking up using the front side point, this raises the back side jacking point enough to get a stand under it. Then you can use the front sub frame point to raise the front side jacking point enough to get a stand under it.
In general, if I only want one side off the ground I use the subframe jacking point and balance the car on just the front side point with a stand.
Some people also swear by the 2x4 method using a chunk of wood to get access to both side jacking points off the ground at once.
Also be aware that the jacking points on newer cars are very fragile. You need to stuff them with something, like a chunk of wood or several places sell aluminium ones.
![](http://btwyx.com/Pictures/JackP2.jpg)
#3
If you want to put it on jack stands with all four wheels off the ground, I do it by jacking up using the front side point, this raises the back side jacking point enough to get a stand under it. Then you can use the front sub frame point to raise the front side jacking point enough to get a stand under it.
I get the entire side on stands using the subframe point on the side in question. I lift from the subfram until I can get a jack stand on the rear side pad - by this time the front is up pretty high but the rear wheel is still on the ground. I place the stand and slowly lower the front. As the front comes down the body pivots on the rear stand and the rear wheel comes off the ground - I continue to lower until a similar jack stand is placed under the front pad.
I use small stands for this - only 12 inchers 1/2 ton) but that's plenty for brake work and rotating tires....
been doing it this way since 2002 with no observed ill effect - and just come down on those jack blocks real easy and they'll be OK. I've yet to break one on any of the cars I've worked on - mine and other's. I position my stand tops to cross the block - +
I get the entire side on stands using the subframe point on the side in question. I lift from the subfram until I can get a jack stand on the rear side pad - by this time the front is up pretty high but the rear wheel is still on the ground. I place the stand and slowly lower the front. As the front comes down the body pivots on the rear stand and the rear wheel comes off the ground - I continue to lower until a similar jack stand is placed under the front pad.
I use small stands for this - only 12 inchers 1/2 ton) but that's plenty for brake work and rotating tires....
been doing it this way since 2002 with no observed ill effect - and just come down on those jack blocks real easy and they'll be OK. I've yet to break one on any of the cars I've worked on - mine and other's. I position my stand tops to cross the block - +
Last edited by Capt_bj; 07-05-2013 at 04:14 PM.
#4
#5
Click the URL to visit Blimey and scroll down to the April 28th post and read "How a stud lifts a MINI" I do it every whipstitch to clean, inspect and or rotate the tires every 5K. Easy peasy.
http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?m=200704
http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?m=200704
#6
Click the URL to visit Blimey and scroll down to the April 28th post and read "How a stud lifts a MINI" I do it every whipstitch to clean, inspect and or rotate the tires every 5K. Easy peasy.
http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?m=200704
http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?m=200704
#7
i'm going to bump this just so i don't have to start a new thread, but is there a place in the front of the mini to just jack up the entire front? i want to adjust my coils and i need to replace one of my end links, I only have one jack atm since i just moved into my apartment and you have to have both tires in the air to get the end link in. thanks in advance.
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#8
i'm going to bump this just so i don't have to start a new thread, but is there a place in the front of the mini to just jack up the entire front? i want to adjust my coils and i need to replace one of my end links, I only have one jack atm since i just moved into my apartment and you have to have both tires in the air to get the end link in. thanks in advance.
#9
#10
#11
While this is true it doesn't help my situation. If i were physically laying under my car i wouldn't do it without stands, but i just need to get both wheels off the ground, pop one of the wheels off and connect the end link.
#12
#13
Tagging along this thread . . . I'v done a lot of work on my other car (installing full down-pipe and exhaust system on jack stands for example) so I'm used to put the jack stands on the sub-frame edge.
With our new mini and the plastic jack point piece interfaces I don't really know onto what point specifically to lower the car on the jack-stands.
I have sets of typical half moon shaped jack stand tips and it doesn't look like the stands belong on those plastic locations.
So what's the trick.
ps: I look at the link below but it doesn't show what happens at the jack points with the stands...
With our new mini and the plastic jack point piece interfaces I don't really know onto what point specifically to lower the car on the jack-stands.
I have sets of typical half moon shaped jack stand tips and it doesn't look like the stands belong on those plastic locations.
So what's the trick.
ps: I look at the link below but it doesn't show what happens at the jack points with the stands...
#14
#16
Tagging along this thread . . . I'v done a lot of work on my other car (installing full down-pipe and exhaust system on jack stands for example) so I'm used to put the jack stands on the sub-frame edge.
With our new mini and the plastic jack point piece interfaces I don't really know onto what point specifically to lower the car on the jack-stands.
I have sets of typical half moon shaped jack stand tips and it doesn't look like the stands belong on those plastic locations.
So what's the trick.
ps: I look at the link below but it doesn't show what happens at the jack points with the stands...
With our new mini and the plastic jack point piece interfaces I don't really know onto what point specifically to lower the car on the jack-stands.
I have sets of typical half moon shaped jack stand tips and it doesn't look like the stands belong on those plastic locations.
So what's the trick.
ps: I look at the link below but it doesn't show what happens at the jack points with the stands...
#18
The plastic jack points are weak and if you lower it onto the jack stand without stuffing something into it they could break. People sell aluminum pieces for $20 each but I use a small 2x2 piece of wood... cost less than $1. The half moon of the jack stand will rest nicely on the wood. See the picture.
#19
The plastic jack points are weak and if you lower it onto the jack stand without stuffing something into it they could break. People sell aluminum pieces for $20 each but I use a small 2x2 piece of wood... cost less than $1. The half moon of the jack stand will rest nicely on the wood. See the picture.
![Grin](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/grin.gif)
This is good to change wheels but I probably would be a little concerned to work under the car as the wood pieces could put some lateral force on the plastic walls. But is they're short... I'd have to look into that.
Has anyone tried to remove the plastic piece temporarily?
This is good to know as well though the wooden 2x4 isn't such a bad idea to lift the car.
#20
That is a perfect spot, I use it all the time, but I also use a thin piece of wood like a 1x4 to help distribute the weight and not mar the surface.
#21
You can also replace the plastic with aluminum ones so you should be able to take them off.
Way Motor Works sells them:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/billet-jack-points.html
The jack pad adapters can be bought from BMS
http://www.burgertuning.com/Mini_Coo...d_adapter.html
I've had the car on all four stands using the wood pieces and then tried to push it off (the first time I was concerned) but it wasn't moving.
Way Motor Works sells them:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/billet-jack-points.html
The jack pad adapters can be bought from BMS
http://www.burgertuning.com/Mini_Coo...d_adapter.html
I've had the car on all four stands using the wood pieces and then tried to push it off (the first time I was concerned) but it wasn't moving.
#22
Great links!
I am much less worried about lifting the car than making sure it is stable when I work though
So those jack replacement pads don't make a lot of sense to me imo. I never work on the car supported by the jack itself... I know it is probably safe 99.9% of the time . . . until you're that 0.1% person who regret it big time
I am much less worried about lifting the car than making sure it is stable when I work though
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