Suspension Torque steer ,help
#7
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#9
http://www.nm-eng.com/287/11/0/1456/...rm-insert.html
Nmengineering.
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Nmengineering.
Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
#12
It doesn't matter which model MINI you have. They all HUGELY benefit from a polyurethane torque arm insert or just replacing the entire unit with a new torque arm from a company like BSH. Heck, all FWD cars benefit from a stiffer torque arm!
Beyond that, FWD cars will always have some degree of torque steer due to the physics of the platform. A better LSD will help you put power down more effectively, but it won't solve the torque steer problem.
Beyond that, FWD cars will always have some degree of torque steer due to the physics of the platform. A better LSD will help you put power down more effectively, but it won't solve the torque steer problem.
#13
I have a 2009 Clubman S. When going around a corner, especially at lower speeds with a lot of acceleration, I noticed a lot less slippage of the inner wheel with stickier tires. Went from the 16" Continental run flats to 17" Continental DW Extremes.
Later went to a larger rear sway bar and that helped a little too. I still notice inner wheel slippage a little though like when trying to get through a left turn when the light is turning yellow and turning the steering wheel quickly. Being smooth with the accelerator and steering helps a lot. I don't notice much torque steer, as in I don't really feel the steering wheel getting tugged much, just a little slippage of the inner wheel sometimes which seems to prevent me from accelerating. Could be the DSC kicking in but I don't think so.
I agree that the strut brace does not help with torque steer. And when canyon carving I notice no torque steer or slippage with my setup. I am curious about the torque arm now...
Later went to a larger rear sway bar and that helped a little too. I still notice inner wheel slippage a little though like when trying to get through a left turn when the light is turning yellow and turning the steering wheel quickly. Being smooth with the accelerator and steering helps a lot. I don't notice much torque steer, as in I don't really feel the steering wheel getting tugged much, just a little slippage of the inner wheel sometimes which seems to prevent me from accelerating. Could be the DSC kicking in but I don't think so.
I agree that the strut brace does not help with torque steer. And when canyon carving I notice no torque steer or slippage with my setup. I am curious about the torque arm now...
#17
I did get them and install them. As every one else has said it takes longer to get the car up on stands then to put the inserts in.
I recommend doing it all under the car. No need to unbolt the arm from the small side just loosen it and let the arm swing down once u removed the big end bolt.
Observations on 1 week of having them. Seems to do the job. I noted a slight tiny bit of vibrations transfered to the floor board but it has subsided. I guess until the bushing and the insert found a "happy place". I definitely don't feel and or see the steering wheel jump , jerk, turn to one side nearly as much as it did before the install. ( of course the amount of torque is relative to your right foot and what your doing at that point and time).
Overall 2 thumbs up. For install and effectiveness epically considering the cost of the part
Got mine from the great guys at NmEngineering. I like their stuff
.
Regards.
Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
I recommend doing it all under the car. No need to unbolt the arm from the small side just loosen it and let the arm swing down once u removed the big end bolt.
Observations on 1 week of having them. Seems to do the job. I noted a slight tiny bit of vibrations transfered to the floor board but it has subsided. I guess until the bushing and the insert found a "happy place". I definitely don't feel and or see the steering wheel jump , jerk, turn to one side nearly as much as it did before the install. ( of course the amount of torque is relative to your right foot and what your doing at that point and time).
Overall 2 thumbs up. For install and effectiveness epically considering the cost of the part
Got mine from the great guys at NmEngineering. I like their stuff
![Smilie](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Regards.
Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
#18
Also you can one step further and get the Powerflex bushing insert for the small side of the torque arm. This will require a press however and because of this, its not a job the average guy can do at home. I did this at the same time as the NM insert, so I can't say how much more it helps compared to just the NM insert alone. But I'm happy with it! Everyday drivability improved as well!
#19
#21
My GP2 has always suffered from large amounts of TQ Steer, and I keep spending money to make my car faster and faster. All this does is makes my situation worse.
Once, I sold my OEM Coilovers and purchased some KWV2's it helped the TQ steer, but only if I cranked the rebound/compression **** way up.
Now, my third set of C/O are KW V3's with separate rebound and compression adjustments. My TQ steer is almost gone, because I have the rebound a little stiffer, but the compression lighter for life's bumps. Having control of just the rebound, makes the strut move quicker to the ground. Having both tires being pushed to the road, has increased my straight line acceleration, turning in and out or corners.
I'm very happy with the comfort and being able to control, a close to 300hp Mini
Mario
Once, I sold my OEM Coilovers and purchased some KWV2's it helped the TQ steer, but only if I cranked the rebound/compression **** way up.
Now, my third set of C/O are KW V3's with separate rebound and compression adjustments. My TQ steer is almost gone, because I have the rebound a little stiffer, but the compression lighter for life's bumps. Having control of just the rebound, makes the strut move quicker to the ground. Having both tires being pushed to the road, has increased my straight line acceleration, turning in and out or corners.
I'm very happy with the comfort and being able to control, a close to 300hp Mini
Mario
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#22
This is a great mod and helped, for a more immediate throttle response, because it reduces the motor from rocking. I did not notice it helped with TQ steer at all
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#23
We all agree that the engine trans and diff are 1 unit as they are all bolted together. And in addition to the unequal length axels. There is engine movement. In our case as it's one unit any support of said engine to reduce the angle change of the axels upon acceleration will help withh the torque application. The torque arm and it's insert we are talking about is mounted on the right side of the centerline of the engine assy. And it's there for a good reason. Its aid in the engine movement backwards which also effects the angle of the axels under acceleration.
Stiffening the torque arm therefore aids in mitigating torque steering effects. YMMV
As you can see in this pic. ( excuse the poor representation of layout. But you can see the point ). The angle of the engine upon power application changes. Ours is actually the other way but it makes no difference for our conversation here.
![Torque steer ,help-image-372881202.jpg](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/attachments/suspension/100009d1481853839t-torque-steer-help-image-372881202.jpg)
This is our left side short axel
![Torque steer ,help-image-95242648.jpg](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/attachments/suspension/100010d1481853839t-torque-steer-help-image-95242648.jpg)
This is our right side longer supported axel.
![Torque steer ,help-image-1524151093.jpg](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/attachments/suspension/100011d1481853839t-torque-steer-help-image-1524151093.jpg)
I would say that driving the car at 10/10ths ball to the wall and flat out at every acceleration point epically while turning , no bushing insert shy of welding steel arms to everything so nothing moves will help But driving the car spirited under somewhat more normal conditions would benefit from the inserts or full poly inserts
( not affiliated with NM or anybody else )
Just my .02.
Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
#24
As we all know torque steer is inherent to front wheel drive vehicles and is only worse with more powerful ( torque-e ) engines. One of the main causes is unequal length axels. Although mini touts " equal" length axels they really aren't. The right axel is much longer then the left axel ( diff and trans mounted on left side of car ) they do incorporate a center mount to aid in supporting the right longer axel thus reducing the change in angel of the axels at the outer most point under acceleration.
We all agree that the engine trans and diff are 1 unit as they are all bolted together. And in addition to the unequal length axels. There is engine movement. In our case as it's one unit any support of said engine to reduce the angle change of the axels upon acceleration will help withh the torque application. The torque arm and it's insert we are talking about is mounted on the right side of the centerline of the engine assy. And it's there for a good reason. Its aid in the engine movement backwards which also effects the angle of the axels under acceleration.
Stiffening the torque arm therefore aids in mitigating torque steering effects. YMMV
As you can see in this pic. ( excuse the poor representation of layout. But you can see the point ). The angle of the engine upon power application changes. Ours is actually the other way but it makes no difference for our conversation here.
Attachment 100009
This is our left side short axel
Attachment 100010
This is our right side longer supported axel.
Attachment 100011
I would say that driving the car at 10/10ths ball to the wall and flat out at every acceleration point epically while turning , no bushing insert shy of welding steel arms to everything so nothing moves will help But driving the car spirited under somewhat more normal conditions would benefit from the inserts or full poly inserts
( not affiliated with NM or anybody else )
Just my .02.
Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
We all agree that the engine trans and diff are 1 unit as they are all bolted together. And in addition to the unequal length axels. There is engine movement. In our case as it's one unit any support of said engine to reduce the angle change of the axels upon acceleration will help withh the torque application. The torque arm and it's insert we are talking about is mounted on the right side of the centerline of the engine assy. And it's there for a good reason. Its aid in the engine movement backwards which also effects the angle of the axels under acceleration.
Stiffening the torque arm therefore aids in mitigating torque steering effects. YMMV
As you can see in this pic. ( excuse the poor representation of layout. But you can see the point ). The angle of the engine upon power application changes. Ours is actually the other way but it makes no difference for our conversation here.
Attachment 100009
This is our left side short axel
Attachment 100010
This is our right side longer supported axel.
Attachment 100011
I would say that driving the car at 10/10ths ball to the wall and flat out at every acceleration point epically while turning , no bushing insert shy of welding steel arms to everything so nothing moves will help But driving the car spirited under somewhat more normal conditions would benefit from the inserts or full poly inserts
( not affiliated with NM or anybody else )
Just my .02.
Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
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