New 06' Cooper S Member
#1
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#8
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Thanks everyone for the welcomes! on another note, I was talking to a few of my buddies at the shop and they said that one of the guys is selling some legitimate black volk ce28n 16x8 weels/tires for $1k they only have about 500 miles on them. the thing im wondering is if it would look goofy with 16s seeing how ive got 17s now.
Buzzsaw, how much does the 15% pully cost and is it hard to put in?
Buzzsaw, how much does the 15% pully cost and is it hard to put in?
Last edited by Mason H; 12-01-2009 at 12:26 PM.
#10
Thanks everyone for the welcomes! on another note, I was talking to a few of my buddies at the shop and they said that one of the guys is selling some legitimate black volk ce28n 16x8 weels/tires for $1k they only have about 500 miles on them. the thing im wondering is if it would look goofy with 16s seeing how ive got 17s now.
Buzzsaw, how much does the 15% pully cost and is it hard to put in?
Buzzsaw, how much does the 15% pully cost and is it hard to put in?
#11
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Small wheels arent that bad, in fact Id like to get some holies at some point. Lighter rims are always a nice touch to your car. In fact theres a thread here about a guy who couldnt believe how awesome his car drove after going smaller. Do get some droppy drop. Nothin wrong with more low... Get a swaybar too... I find suspension very rewarding. The pulley is an inexpensive very noticable upgrade as well.
#12
#13
I second nabeshin's suggestion to ditch the run-flats. You can get a great set of Yokohama's (include road hazard and balancing) for the cost of 2 run-flats, and they will last you at least twice as long. You will need to get a flat kit (small tire compressor, slime, plugs, etc) or carry a spare. I will eventually do a rear seat delete and have a full sized spare with a matching wheel in the back of the MINI.
#14
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#15
Thanks everyone for the welcomes! on another note, I was talking to a few of my buddies at the shop and they said that one of the guys is selling some legitimate black volk ce28n 16x8 weels/tires for $1k they only have about 500 miles on them. the thing im wondering is if it would look goofy with 16s seeing how ive got 17s now.
Buzzsaw, how much does the 15% pully cost and is it hard to put in?
Buzzsaw, how much does the 15% pully cost and is it hard to put in?
A pulley itself will cost about $120.00 + or -. I had our pulley installed by the dealer prior to delivery. Here is a pulley installation DIY I found if you want to attempt the installation yourself. Personally if I have no experience on any mod installation, I have it done professionally. Saves me money in the long run. Good luck.
#16
I'm not sure where you are at but if there's a local mini club I'm sure someone could assist in a pulley and sway bar install. My car already had a 17% when I bought it but my local club has garage days where they tackle pretty much all the bolt ons. I put my own bar on had had one of the local guys help with my springs. I noticed improved handeling with my springs and def with the bar. I did both pretty soon after I got the car so I couldnt really tell you if theres more bumpy ride quality, but when your the driver its not that bad.
#17
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#18
#19
Springs are different then coil overs. $400 isn't a price range for neither coil overs or springs. Coil overs should be from 900 to 1000+. Springs will usually cost $200 to $300 at most.
I suggest a pulley. Get a 15% or 17% super charger pulley and a smaller super charger belt for about $120. A good mechanic can do the swap in about an hour. Should cost $150 or less to install. The pulley will be the most noticeable difference in terms of performance, next to run flats.
I suggest a pulley. Get a 15% or 17% super charger pulley and a smaller super charger belt for about $120. A good mechanic can do the swap in about an hour. Should cost $150 or less to install. The pulley will be the most noticeable difference in terms of performance, next to run flats.
#20
You would need new rear arms put on and new springs would put you really close to 400-500... You will need Rear arms either way. Coils or Springs.
#21
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#22
realized that about the coilovers and springs yesterday and needless to say I fealt pretty dumb lol. I know a friend of mine that owns a shop here locally in Sarasota so installation shouldn't be too bad. Is there a noticeable difference with the 17-15%? or should I just go 15?
Im sure it would be fine in Florida, but here in Salt Lake winters can be hard on metal parts. My friend showed me his Alta arms after one winter here and they were totaly rusted and fused together. So there was no adjustability.You may want to consider that in your control arm choice.
#23
Welcome! I just joined up a few weeks ago, myself....
I was going to ask you where you were from, but later in the thread it came out that you're in Florida. It's amazing how much some parts of Florida look like my old stomping grounds in the Pine Barrens of southern NJ, which is what piqued my curiosity....
Good luck with the new car, and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I've been enjoying mine!!
C ya,
I was going to ask you where you were from, but later in the thread it came out that you're in Florida. It's amazing how much some parts of Florida look like my old stomping grounds in the Pine Barrens of southern NJ, which is what piqued my curiosity....
Good luck with the new car, and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I've been enjoying mine!!
C ya,
#24
If you stay well below the engine's redline, then the 17 and 19 will provide more low end power.
If you like going all the way to the engine's redline all of the time, then you'd want the 15%, for durability and efficiency.
This was all discussed in a thread at some point, the title of which escapes me.
#25
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If it helps, the 17% and 19% pullies will spin the s/c in excess of the unit's designed redline. The 15% will spin the s/c just to the unit's designed redline. Exceeding the s/c redline means more heat, no gain, and more part wear.
If you stay well below the engine's redline, then the 17 and 19 will provide more low end power.
If you like going all the way to the engine's redline all of the time, then you'd want the 15%, for durability and efficiency.
This was all discussed in a thread at some point, the title of which escapes me.
If you stay well below the engine's redline, then the 17 and 19 will provide more low end power.
If you like going all the way to the engine's redline all of the time, then you'd want the 15%, for durability and efficiency.
This was all discussed in a thread at some point, the title of which escapes me.
Joe,
i hear NJ is pretty nice, haven't gotten a chance to go there though, thanks for the welcome!
McCooperS,
Thanks for the heads up on prices
new stuff!
went 15% tint all around, nice and dark inside