"Those Waiting for a 2011" Support Group
#302
#303
#304
That is GREAT news!!! Hopefully you don't have anything lengthy to be done at the dealer. My dealer said they will turn my car in 3-4 hours. Mine is still a pile of parts in the Oxford plant so I will look forward to hearing about yours!!!
You ordered yours only 10 days before mine so your dealers spot in line was waaay closer to production than mine was.
You ordered yours only 10 days before mine so your dealers spot in line was waaay closer to production than mine was.
The only dealer accessory I have going in are the sport stripes. The paranoid part of me is concerned they won't be straight or will have bubbles!
#305
He's here, well almost:
From what MiniUSA informed Maria, this is the first JCW to be shipped to the USA with the Chili Red interior trim rings and dash. Now someone will probably say that they've seen one some place else, but that's according to MINIUSA. Anyway, it's mine, or I should say, ours.
#306
Travel Buddies!!
Alex, I believe that our guys rode up from Baltimore together, as was the cae on the Fedora. Maria said that Lil Guy actually arrived at the dealership last night, but was processed this morning. So, that would mean that Lil Alex had enough time to go to Madison from Schaumburg.
So, this is great news for both of us. Funny though, I had to e-mail Maria to get the information that he was in. I just had that feeling that he was in this morning, while I was at work this morning. Funny I've had different feelings about the Lil Guy, all through this build, then the shipping and the arrival in Baltimore. Really scary really.
#307
#309
#310
Hey Guys,
I learned many years ago and many new cars ago to do this: Fill the tank up, first. Get around 20 miles or so at low rpm, then take it out on the highway, or interstate, drive at variable speeds. Drive for a long period, at least two hours. Make the engine pull, but the key is to drive for a long period without turning the engine off. But vary it between 2000 grand up to 3000 grand the couple of hours. Then, vary from 2000 grand up to 4000 grand, in top gear. Maybe in the Mini in 5th gear. I'd hate to think what speed 4000 grand would be, so the main thing is to vary the speed, and you're right Alex, no cruise control, other than to see if it works.
In my High Performance car days, breaking in the engine this way was worth 20 hp. With the Mini, that might be 10 hp as well as mpg. How you break in your higher performance engine really makes a big difference. The engines today aren't as finicky as they were back in the old days, but it still can make a big difference in both, performance and mileage. Oh well, end of Professor Bills lecture.
I learned many years ago and many new cars ago to do this: Fill the tank up, first. Get around 20 miles or so at low rpm, then take it out on the highway, or interstate, drive at variable speeds. Drive for a long period, at least two hours. Make the engine pull, but the key is to drive for a long period without turning the engine off. But vary it between 2000 grand up to 3000 grand the couple of hours. Then, vary from 2000 grand up to 4000 grand, in top gear. Maybe in the Mini in 5th gear. I'd hate to think what speed 4000 grand would be, so the main thing is to vary the speed, and you're right Alex, no cruise control, other than to see if it works.
In my High Performance car days, breaking in the engine this way was worth 20 hp. With the Mini, that might be 10 hp as well as mpg. How you break in your higher performance engine really makes a big difference. The engines today aren't as finicky as they were back in the old days, but it still can make a big difference in both, performance and mileage. Oh well, end of Professor Bills lecture.
#313
2nd Gear
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Unfortunately I have to leave for Florida on Saturday for business, and won't be back until Nov 8th, so LilBlu will be at the dealer (I assume) a few days before I can pick it up. By that time it will have been the "dealer Demo" and have a thousand miles on it. God, I'm having nightmares already.
When I ordered my Corvette two years ago, we flew out to Bowling Green and picked up the car at the factory to eliminate any delivery induced trauma. I can't help but wonder how many uncaring souls will have had their paws on my Mini before I do.
#314
#315
Hey Guys,
In my High Performance car days, breaking in the engine this way was worth 20 hp. With the Mini, that might be 10 hp as well as mpg. How you break in your higher performance engine really makes a big difference. The engines today aren't as finicky as they were back in the old days, but it still can make a big difference in both, performance and mileage. Oh well, end of Professor Bills lecture.
In my High Performance car days, breaking in the engine this way was worth 20 hp. With the Mini, that might be 10 hp as well as mpg. How you break in your higher performance engine really makes a big difference. The engines today aren't as finicky as they were back in the old days, but it still can make a big difference in both, performance and mileage. Oh well, end of Professor Bills lecture.
#319
I looked on the K-Line website. I found a schedule in Excel format. It says the Michigan Highway sailed from Southampton on 10/16 and is headed directly to Brunswick. It is due to arrive in Brunswick on 10/26 (although Marinetraffic.com has it scheduled to arrive on 10/25 at 11:30 AM)
http://www.kline.com/
Schedules --> RoRo/ Car Carrier --> "K" Line Atlantic RoRo Schedules (Excel) --> TAL IMPORT tab, look for voyage 22 A
Since it is a non-stop from Southampton, the ship will not come down the East Coast. It is making a kind of perpendicular approach. I doubt you will see on radar till several hours prior to docking. I hope I am wrong.
#320
Hemi & Alex: Happy Motoring to you two! I am so excited for you guys. Remember to post some pics when you have the chance.
Now, here is a list I was planning on using for my Mini checkup. I gathered it up from various sources over the Internet and modified it based on my specs.
INTERIOR
o All options present? Go down your build sheet line by line.
o Dealer programmed accessories. Are they working the way you want?
• Check keyless entry
• Check all key fobs.
• Windows go up & down? Smooth consistent motor speed?
• Turn signals etc working
• Radio: Don't be afraid to play it LOUD at the dealer. Use the radio. Used the CD player. AUX-in port, too. Bluetooth, USB-port. Make sure it all works. As well as the fit of the speakers in the doors and dash.
• other programmable features
o Check the dash and all instrumentation. Turn the car on and make sure all the warning lights go off,
o Steering wheel & Column. Does it tilt and telescope as designed? No strange noises going lock to lock?
o Full sunroof operation. Tips both panes and fully retracts.
o Check the fit and function of all the control ***** and switches. One by one.
o Interior lighting. Changing colors as designed? All other door sill, foot well and reading lights working?
o Air conditioning blowing cold and all climate controls working as intended?
o Seatbelts
o Fit and finish of interior.
• Look for stitching issues in the seats and check the seats for marks or tears and make sure they operate properly, Rear Seat Cover/Baby Seat Hold-Downs (no foam padding showing)
• Even/uniform carpeting coverage.
• Headliner is it firmly attached to the interior roof above the rear passenger windows.
• Scrapes or scratches on the side panels, dash or color line. No chipping on chrome plating.
o Make sure you get your mats if you ordered them
EXTERIOR
o Make sure all doors and panels align properly, (seen lots of comments about problems in this area)
o Uneven panel gaps? Run your finger along the different panel seams. Hood, doors, boot and bonnet.
If you feel (or see) the gap "pinch" together, ask them to fix it.
o All panels securely attached? Everything appear solid at the edges? Blank fenders, too? Rear spoiler, too? Grab 'em. Give 'em a wiggle.
o Tow Hook Cover, is it securely attached.
o Bonnet, boot and doors.
• All open and close in a uniform manner?
• Make sure your keys are programmed properly, doors and boot locks, windows open/close.
• Latches secure? Levers and handles feel solid?
• No notchy-ness, snags or strangeness?
• Everything appear to seal up tight? All seals appear smooth and even?
No budges or gaps that might suggest a future leak?
o Open the hood - even if you have no idea what goes on underneath. Make sure there is nothing obviously wrong - signs of oil or water or other dirt on the engine and underneath of the hood. it should be spotless.
o Is the bonnet making contact with the line running near the turbo? If so, ask for it to be relocated or a rubber "bumper" strip to be attached for some additional protection in that area.
o Windows: Check all glass for pits, and cracks - especially look for potential stress cracks on the windscreen
o No cracked fog lights or similar.
o Check your wheels and tires - they should be perfect - no dings or scrapes.
o Check brakes
o Check tire pressure and double-check they are mounted in the proper direction. There are little arrows on the side that show which way they should be rotating. Improperly mounted and inflated tires can affect something as simple as gas mileage... or cause something as bad as a firey crash (a mild exaggeration if you look at the big Firestone/Bridgestone fiasco a few years back). This is particularly important with run flat tires, since it is not likely that you will notice the feel of an underinflated tire.
o Paint & Finish: go over the entire exterior paint with your hand to identify the smoothness of the finish, there have apparently been damaged/repaired areas during transport that are not the same as manufactured quality. Check this outside in daylight.
o Dents, dings, scratches or scrapes in the surface suffered during shipping (rare, but happens)?
o Clear plastic paint rub circles for the bonnet and hood intact? They are located where the rubber "standoffs" meet the painted bodywork, to eliminate paint damage.
o All fluids present and topped off? Sounds silly, but... I never assume.
o Car jack and wrench, they should be identified as 5DD on the Vehicle Inquiry Report.
o All lighting equipment operational? Lights, blinkers, etc... headlights aimed properly.
o Wiper blades not leaving any streaks.
TEST DRIVE
o Turn the car on and walk around it when it’s running - listen for any out of the ordinary noises.
o Keep the hood up - listen for any odd noises
o Drive it off the dealer's lot with the radio off and a window open. Take the dealer with you.
o Make sure the car doesn’t pull excessively as you brake hard.
o Listen for wind noise during your test drive, too.
o Rattles or squeaks? all cars have 'em... but any that concern you, bring up to the dealer.
o Transmission noise and function. Upshifts and downshifts well? Any noises out of the ordinary tranny whine?
o Engine noise and function. Does it sound smooth? No misses, pops, surges or stumbles?
o All gauges appear to be working as intended? No bouncing speedo or burnt out LEDs in the display screens (very rare, but it happens)?
o Cruise control: Operate as normal, not inadvertently cutoff during operation.
o Document all and any problems when you are there and make sure the dealer agrees to fix them. If they are really severe don't accept the car and make them fix them asap. Ask for a loaner.
Now, here is a list I was planning on using for my Mini checkup. I gathered it up from various sources over the Internet and modified it based on my specs.
INTERIOR
o All options present? Go down your build sheet line by line.
o Dealer programmed accessories. Are they working the way you want?
• Check keyless entry
• Check all key fobs.
• Windows go up & down? Smooth consistent motor speed?
• Turn signals etc working
• Radio: Don't be afraid to play it LOUD at the dealer. Use the radio. Used the CD player. AUX-in port, too. Bluetooth, USB-port. Make sure it all works. As well as the fit of the speakers in the doors and dash.
• other programmable features
o Check the dash and all instrumentation. Turn the car on and make sure all the warning lights go off,
o Steering wheel & Column. Does it tilt and telescope as designed? No strange noises going lock to lock?
o Full sunroof operation. Tips both panes and fully retracts.
o Check the fit and function of all the control ***** and switches. One by one.
o Interior lighting. Changing colors as designed? All other door sill, foot well and reading lights working?
o Air conditioning blowing cold and all climate controls working as intended?
o Seatbelts
o Fit and finish of interior.
• Look for stitching issues in the seats and check the seats for marks or tears and make sure they operate properly, Rear Seat Cover/Baby Seat Hold-Downs (no foam padding showing)
• Even/uniform carpeting coverage.
• Headliner is it firmly attached to the interior roof above the rear passenger windows.
• Scrapes or scratches on the side panels, dash or color line. No chipping on chrome plating.
o Make sure you get your mats if you ordered them
EXTERIOR
o Make sure all doors and panels align properly, (seen lots of comments about problems in this area)
o Uneven panel gaps? Run your finger along the different panel seams. Hood, doors, boot and bonnet.
If you feel (or see) the gap "pinch" together, ask them to fix it.
o All panels securely attached? Everything appear solid at the edges? Blank fenders, too? Rear spoiler, too? Grab 'em. Give 'em a wiggle.
o Tow Hook Cover, is it securely attached.
o Bonnet, boot and doors.
• All open and close in a uniform manner?
• Make sure your keys are programmed properly, doors and boot locks, windows open/close.
• Latches secure? Levers and handles feel solid?
• No notchy-ness, snags or strangeness?
• Everything appear to seal up tight? All seals appear smooth and even?
No budges or gaps that might suggest a future leak?
o Open the hood - even if you have no idea what goes on underneath. Make sure there is nothing obviously wrong - signs of oil or water or other dirt on the engine and underneath of the hood. it should be spotless.
o Is the bonnet making contact with the line running near the turbo? If so, ask for it to be relocated or a rubber "bumper" strip to be attached for some additional protection in that area.
o Windows: Check all glass for pits, and cracks - especially look for potential stress cracks on the windscreen
o No cracked fog lights or similar.
o Check your wheels and tires - they should be perfect - no dings or scrapes.
o Check brakes
o Check tire pressure and double-check they are mounted in the proper direction. There are little arrows on the side that show which way they should be rotating. Improperly mounted and inflated tires can affect something as simple as gas mileage... or cause something as bad as a firey crash (a mild exaggeration if you look at the big Firestone/Bridgestone fiasco a few years back). This is particularly important with run flat tires, since it is not likely that you will notice the feel of an underinflated tire.
o Paint & Finish: go over the entire exterior paint with your hand to identify the smoothness of the finish, there have apparently been damaged/repaired areas during transport that are not the same as manufactured quality. Check this outside in daylight.
o Dents, dings, scratches or scrapes in the surface suffered during shipping (rare, but happens)?
o Clear plastic paint rub circles for the bonnet and hood intact? They are located where the rubber "standoffs" meet the painted bodywork, to eliminate paint damage.
o All fluids present and topped off? Sounds silly, but... I never assume.
o Car jack and wrench, they should be identified as 5DD on the Vehicle Inquiry Report.
o All lighting equipment operational? Lights, blinkers, etc... headlights aimed properly.
o Wiper blades not leaving any streaks.
TEST DRIVE
o Turn the car on and walk around it when it’s running - listen for any out of the ordinary noises.
o Keep the hood up - listen for any odd noises
o Drive it off the dealer's lot with the radio off and a window open. Take the dealer with you.
o Make sure the car doesn’t pull excessively as you brake hard.
o Listen for wind noise during your test drive, too.
o Rattles or squeaks? all cars have 'em... but any that concern you, bring up to the dealer.
o Transmission noise and function. Upshifts and downshifts well? Any noises out of the ordinary tranny whine?
o Engine noise and function. Does it sound smooth? No misses, pops, surges or stumbles?
o All gauges appear to be working as intended? No bouncing speedo or burnt out LEDs in the display screens (very rare, but it happens)?
o Cruise control: Operate as normal, not inadvertently cutoff during operation.
o Document all and any problems when you are there and make sure the dealer agrees to fix them. If they are really severe don't accept the car and make them fix them asap. Ask for a loaner.
#321
I have tried several times to look for a Brunswick webcam, but I could not find any.
I looked on the K-Line website. I found a schedule in Excel format. It says the Michigan Highway sailed from Southampton on 10/16 and is headed directly to Brunswick. It is due to arrive in Brunswick on 10/26 (although Marinetraffic.com has it scheduled to arrive on 10/25 at 11:30 AM)
http://www.kline.com/
Schedules --> RoRo/ Car Carrier --> "K" Line Atlantic RoRo Schedules (Excel) --> TAL IMPORT tab, look for voyage 22 A
Since it is a non-stop from Southampton, the ship will not come down the East Coast. It is making a kind of perpendicular approach. I doubt you will see on radar till several hours prior to docking. I hope I am wrong.
I looked on the K-Line website. I found a schedule in Excel format. It says the Michigan Highway sailed from Southampton on 10/16 and is headed directly to Brunswick. It is due to arrive in Brunswick on 10/26 (although Marinetraffic.com has it scheduled to arrive on 10/25 at 11:30 AM)
http://www.kline.com/
Schedules --> RoRo/ Car Carrier --> "K" Line Atlantic RoRo Schedules (Excel) --> TAL IMPORT tab, look for voyage 22 A
Since it is a non-stop from Southampton, the ship will not come down the East Coast. It is making a kind of perpendicular approach. I doubt you will see on radar till several hours prior to docking. I hope I am wrong.
#322
Sorry, I couldn't help you much. Too bad your car is'nt going to Charleston. I found a webcam shot last year which showed Fort Sumter, and allowed you to see all the ships going into Charleston.
#323
Here is a video showing you how cars are secured aboard ships. I believe MINIs are secured by the front and rear tow hooks.
http://www.eukor.com/homepage/eukor/cargo_service.jsp
http://www.eukor.com/homepage/eukor/cargo_service.jsp
#325
Thanks
[/QUOTE]
ORM: Thanks a bunch for this. Many of these I would do naturally, but a nice reminder, and yes I intend on printing this out to take with me to Chicago, very helpful. I would advise others that are picking up ANY car for that manner, to print this out and use this as a check off sheet. Especially the fit and finish issues, and window operation. I've hear some say that the window back up for opening the door sometimes has issues for not working. Just a thought.
ORM: Thanks a bunch for this. Many of these I would do naturally, but a nice reminder, and yes I intend on printing this out to take with me to Chicago, very helpful. I would advise others that are picking up ANY car for that manner, to print this out and use this as a check off sheet. Especially the fit and finish issues, and window operation. I've hear some say that the window back up for opening the door sometimes has issues for not working. Just a thought.