Very close to ordering my 1st MINI.
#26
11-10-2013, 01:36 PM
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If you decide you'd like a bit more cornering stability, you can replace the rear sway bar with a stronger one for under $200 and an hour's work. It won't affect the softer ride of the standard suspension but noticeably improves handling. Source: I drive a clubman with non-sport suspension and the 19mm TSW rear sway bar from Way Motor Works.
I theorize that most modern engines, with moderate care, will outlast the rest of the drivetrain. My wife's 2003 Subaru Outback has over 250,000mi on it. Oil changes tend to be forgotten for 10k at a stretch. The engine is running as well as ever, but it's time to replace some worn CV joints and suspension components. Ymmv.
You'll have a ball! Enjoy!
I theorize that most modern engines, with moderate care, will outlast the rest of the drivetrain. My wife's 2003 Subaru Outback has over 250,000mi on it. Oil changes tend to be forgotten for 10k at a stretch. The engine is running as well as ever, but it's time to replace some worn CV joints and suspension components. Ymmv.
You'll have a ball! Enjoy!
#27
11-10-2013, 02:16 PM
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Oh ok whew. Didn't mean to go nuts, was just surprised by the 10w60 - only normal-ish car I know running that is (I believe) the e9x M3.
Just FYI, 0Wx is less viscous at all temps, not just winter temps. So even in hot temps, all the way up to operating temp, 0w flows better than a respective 5w or 10w. also, 10w30 has a lower vicscosity than a 0w40 at all temps. I run 0w30 year round, its the best you can do.
Finally, no need to let the car idle for 10 minutes before driving off. I do 30s-1min max, and even that is considered a lot by some.
Just FYI, 0Wx is less viscous at all temps, not just winter temps. So even in hot temps, all the way up to operating temp, 0w flows better than a respective 5w or 10w. also, 10w30 has a lower vicscosity than a 0w40 at all temps. I run 0w30 year round, its the best you can do.
Finally, no need to let the car idle for 10 minutes before driving off. I do 30s-1min max, and even that is considered a lot by some.
#28
11-10-2013, 02:26 PM
Good point, and I do look at the flash point too. From experience so far, 40s have been keeping my motors clean, the 30's not so much. One thing I do swear by is letting the car warm up at least two min even if I'm in a rush. It lets all the seals and gaskets seat, set, and expand properly. Coming from a motorcycle background growing up. I'll take that to the grave. None of my past vehicles have any leaks or rebuilds with 250k+, even for the infamous EJ20's and EJ25's in the subies I've had in the past. For sure there's no harm in warming up! I mean... it does drive better warmed up~ 
I do know the subie guys like to run that 5w40 rotella oil, good stuff and those engines seem to like it better. For mine, I just stick with the 10w30 Amsoil ZROD.Nice car. I think most people run synth in general. For the super- and turbocharged cars, I would run Amsoil ZROD 10w30. LMK if you want any, I get Amsoil at dealer cost.
#29
11-10-2013, 02:28 PM
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I understand that if something goes wrong it's the BMW "Bring Much Wampum" syndrome.
#30
11-10-2013, 03:36 PM
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Good info - I almost went with an STI myself, went with one of these instead: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...36-post42.html
#31
11-10-2013, 03:39 PM
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The best way I could really describe why I go with full synthetics is the fact that they last much longer than regular. And when you really do run your car hard, it's much more stable in holding in temps for a longer period without breaking down as fast, in short: just more durable.
#32
11-10-2013, 03:50 PM
It's sweet you got the 7-hole wheels, still riding on those? And your Evo is nice, definitely an overall quicker ride than the STi in most all aspects. I do appreciate the rex having the understeer which is really a plus when I play in the mud and dirt. 25.5mm is super thick, any reason to using that instead of 19mm?
and yea thanks. it's my second evo, love it to death, but i would love to rock an 08+ sti minus all the ringland issues.
so the 25.5mm rsb is a hollow one, so i think it's equivalent to a 22mm solid bar. so basically it's just to save weight. the stock jcw rsb i believe is 19mm, so no reason to go smaller than that in my mind.
#34
11-10-2013, 04:32 PM
It's hollow, so it weighs less than a conventional solid sway bar while delivering mucho stiffness. It's roughly equivalent to a 21mm solid.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/07-10-c...ion/sway-bars/
http://www.waymotorworks.com/07-10-c...ion/sway-bars/
#35
11-10-2013, 09:54 PM
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It's hollow, so it weighs less than a conventional solid sway bar while delivering mucho stiffness. It's roughly equivalent to a 21mm solid.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/07-10-c...ion/sway-bars/
http://www.waymotorworks.com/07-10-c...ion/sway-bars/
I swore I said I'm going to unmolest this ride. I've yet to take delivery and I'm definitely inquiring too much.
#36
11-11-2013, 08:29 AM
just go for it man.. i had my entire build planned out before i ever ordered the car. though my plan is to run in HS for scca solo in it lol
#37
11-12-2013, 08:10 PM
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