Hi everyone!
Although I have asked a few question already in the forums, I am new to this kind of stuff.
I bought my Mini Cooper S back on december of 2003 as a 2004 model.
Enjoy every bit of it, but only have 2,100 miles!!
This is my toy. As a currenty own of VW's and Audi, I found the Mini world very different, but high in fun in the twisties.
Mine is electric blue and already have big throttle, BMP filter/stress bar, rear stress bar, NGK sparks, 19% pulley, JR plug cables, GIAC program, m7 injectors. On its way are silicone air hose, alta lightened crank pulley, rear 22mm sway bar with alta links, oil catch can, Pilo coil pack, Megan racing exhaust plus header and so on, so on.
I love driving this baby, but go more confortable in my A4 1.8t 2003 every day to work. So, this is for fun on sundays!!
Every piece of advice is always welcome from you. Take care!!!

 

welcome

 

Maybe if you would drive the MINI more you will end up selling the A4

 

minijob,
For a person "new to this kind of stuff" you sure do have ALOT of mods.
Are you tracking your MCS? Your setup indicates that's what you've tuned it for. Maybe it's time to talk to a MINI tuner from Webbmotorsports, Helix13 or detroittuned.com?

Alta Crank pulley? What size- 2%, 3% or 4%? All are a bit much along with a 19% reduction pulley for the supercharger- how far are you going to go?
Realize that the GIAC is not tuned for more than 19% reduction.

You didn't mention suspension upgrades to springs/coilovers/shocks/rear swaybar or for adjustable camber plates and control arms. What about your alignment settings and rims and tires? Which cat-back exhaust?

How about posting some pictures of the interior and exterior?

How do you find the "MINI world" to be different from VW and Audi?

 

Well, Minihune (and BTW, thanks for the interest) I've been driving VW's since I am 18. Now in my 39's, I got the Mini because I love the looks and love the little cars. Also, mags like Car and Driver told it is a great car. So, it is true.
I've been modifying all my VW's. Now I own a Rabbit Pick Up, a VW New Beetle with the enjoyable 1.8T, and the Audi A4 with 1.8T and CVT 6 speeds. So I understand a bit about what I have to do to a car to run better.

But the Mini is a different approach in curves. I just love to run my Mini from home to work (but I don't do it not even once a week, and sometimes just around the block.) That is why just 2,100 miles in one year and a half. I like reading about cars and making some mods myself, and love to test them. So far, I am very satisfied with the changes.

Alta Crank Pulley?? I did not know there was a 2%, 3% or 4%. I just bought it. Could you help me here?

Suspension: mine is stock right now, aside form stress bars front (BMP) and back (from Moss). I just bought the rear sway bar (but have not installed yet), because I read in forums that is one of the most interesting changes in car manuvers. (I have a bigger rear sway bar in my New Beetle and is a whole new car!).
But I live in Puerto Rico, so in country, when you are not in highways, your suspension is always in a pothhole. I think I will stick with stock shocks and springs.

I would like to change the stock control arms, but not sure in terms of effect vs money invested.

I just have 16" stock rims. Would like lighter ones. Maybe one of these days. Exhaust? I just receive today Megan Racing from Pilo. I have not open the box yet, but bought it because of the price (we in PR pay a lot more for shipping). Let's see! I am not interested in a lot of noise. But want a 5-8 HP through the gases. I also have the Megan Racing header, but have to get the O2 simulator before installation.

So far, the forums of NAM have help me a lot, and thanks to people like you.

The Mini World is kind of different. I love the go-kart feeling of my Mini. But love the teutonic feel of my 03 Audi A4. Also, the 1.8T in VW/Audis is more elastic, more flexible way up to the high revs. More tuneable. But, the short ratios in a Mini Tranny is like heaven in highway zig-zags.

So, I am between two great cars. But Minis are awesome. VW/Audi are solid. Minis are new. VW's are old enough to have more knowledge in mechanics. I enjoy them, both.

 

[QUOTE=minijob]Well, Minihune (and BTW, thanks for the interest) I've been driving VW's since I am 18. ...

Alta Crank Pulley?? I did not know there was a 2%, 3% or 4%. I just bought it. Could you help me here?

Suspension: mine is stock right now, aside form stress bars front (BMP) and back (from Moss). I just bought the rear sway bar (but have not installed yet), because I read in forums that is one of the most interesting changes in car manuvers. (I have a bigger rear sway bar in my New Beetle and is a whole new car!).
But I live in Puerto Rico, so in country, when you are not in highways, your suspension is always in a pothhole. I think I will stick with stock shocks and springs.

I would like to change the stock control arms, but not sure in terms of effect vs money invested.

I just have 16" stock rims. Would like lighter ones. Maybe one of these days. Exhaust? I just receive today Megan Racing from Pilo. I have not open the box yet, but bought it because of the price (we in PR pay a lot more for shipping). Let's see! I am not interested in a lot of noise. But want a 5-8 HP through the gases. I also have the Megan Racing header, but have to get the O2 simulator before installation.
QUOTE]

minijob,

OK, I see. It's great you have experience in both "worlds".
In some respects you can appreciate what each has to offer.

Some comments-

Alta Crank pulley- Yes, they started with 2% and now offer other sizes. It's meant to supplement the reduction pulley. For example, use a 2% crank pulley with a 17% reduction SC pulley to get the benefits of a 19% reduction pulley. If you have a 19% reduction pulley and add a 2% crank pulley you'd be like a 21% reduction pulley- not sure you want to do that for your street use. You have the option of selling your crank pulley to someone that has a 15%, 16%, or 17% reduction pulley.

Stock suspension- given your poor roads I think you are fine with the stock suspension for now.

Rear sway bar- should be OK to install, choose the softest setting to start with which is the hole farthest from the bend and closest to the end of the bar. Only plays a role in sharp cornering.

Stock 16" rims- these should be OK given the potholes and rough roads. Lighter wheels are subject to damage unless you are willing to get strong forged wheels but those are expensive. If you really like the large 17" wheel look they do weigh quite a bit but if you don't mind 15" wheels you can find some strong forged 15x6.5 or 15x7" rims that are light and dent resistant.

Megan Racing Header and Exhaust- The exhaust should be OK to install. See the threads on the header install and about the 02 sensors, etc.

Control arms- rear lower adjust control arms help to adjust rear camber which is not needed in your case using stock suspension parts. Skip this.

You might do well with a short shift kit to help with more positive shifts- B&M is nice, lowers the ****, not too costly, or the Helix13 short shift kit is basic, cheap, works OK and leaves the **** at stock height. You can add the Whalen shift **** and have it custom engraved- it's heavy and feels solid when shifting.

Have fun, sounds like a busy summer for you.
Good luck dodging the potholes.

 

Thanks for all those tips, Minihune. Really appreciated.
What do you think about Moss non-adj. control arms?
They say: are lightened and you can feel the difference. Is that really true?
Also, when I put a short shift in my New Beetle, the shift changes were heavier, not as smooth as OEM, did not like it very much.
Is that the case with the MINI?
And about brakes: Do you like Wilwood street set up?
The other day I was testing my MCS and the brakes were "burning" and smelling.
Thanks again and bye.

 

Mossmini control arms-
"Designed with performance driving in mind. A lower pair of Adjustable Control Arms will allow quick and precise camber adjustment. With the addition of an upper pair Toe can also be controlled. If performance driving is in your future, but camber and toe adjustment aren't necessary, our solid control arms are for you. By replacing the factory stamped steel arms, which are prone to flexing, with our 4130 chromoly arms more feel and control is transferred back to the driver. All arms are supplied with Polyurethane bushings. Polyurethane bushing are pliable to absorb shock, unlike heim-jointed ends, and provide more resistance, than factory rubber bushing, to the forces applied to them without squeaking or wearing. Arms are supplied in pairs." $160 for solid ($110 for solid chrome pair on special) and $260 for adjustable.

While it is true that the stock control arms are non adjustable, cheap and could flex, they will work OK for street use. If you have lots of potholes then the bad road shock can be transmitted to you if you have a stiffer suspension and stiff bushings (these are polyurethane which are less stiff but less durable).

I didn't add lower adjustable control arms for "more feel and control" but rather for the ability to adjust rear camber. Less camber for a smoother ride that wears out the tires less and more negative camber to allow for faster cornering without excessive harshness while controlling for tire wear. Stock MINIs have about -1.0 to -2.0 rear negative camber. For most driving about -1.5 is good. More than -2.0 camber is going to wear tires a bit more on the inner edges and risk being rough riding unless you do alignment.

If you track your car then adjustable control arms would be OK, a bit more strength and adjustable. For street use I don't think they are a good value. I would not install solid control arms (non adjustable) just for the added strength given the cost (including labor).

If you add lowering springs then your rear camber will be much more negative, even as much as -2.4 degrees, then adding an adjustable rear control arm will help to put the camber back into the stock range or you will drive around with much more negative camber than is needed for most drivers. Also when adding springs the right and left settings for camber may be different, the adjustable control arms will allow for making camber the same for both sides in the rear. Front camber is adjusted using adjustable front camber plates. On 05' MINIs you can adjust a little rear camber using the stock suspension set up (smaller range of adjustability).

Short shift kits- find another MINI that has the desired kit or **** added and go for a test drive to see how you like it- that is the best test. Does it have a heavy feel- yes it is possible that more force can need to be exerted in certain gears- especially reverse and maybe 5th.

Brakes burning and smelling are a function of over heating the brake pads and rotors. If you were going down a really long hill then that would be expected. If just driving on the street I would be suspicious that something was rubbing or worn. If you're getting brake fade I'd suggest replacing brake fluid with something with a higher boiling point (ATE super blue or similar).

You don't need a big brake kit to avoid burning and smelling from your brakes. You do need to access your needs for brake performance. How much performance driving do you do and on what surfaces. Any autocross or track, only street and highway use, mountain or canyon driving?

If you need a better brake pad (assuming your rotors are OK and not worn from rubbing against a bad pad) then pads that operate at higher temperatures will function better than stock pads. Mintex M1144 and Ferodo DS2500 are common pads used at track events that can still be used on the road. The M1144 are a bit softer and wear faster and dust a bit more than the Ferodos. You can install pads like this on the fronts and rears.

Wilwood brakes are very good and come in a variety of sizes to fit MINIs for use with 15" wheels on up to 17" and larger. Since the brake rotors and calipers can be larger than stock you will limit yourself on what wheels will easily fit after you add a big brake kit. You can email or talk to Todd at TCEbrakes to learn more about Wilwood brakes. You can also call or email Randy Webb at webbmotorsports.com or Ryan at detroittuned.com as they all have experience with big brakes for the MINI.

 

Excellent technical advise. That gives me something really valuable to start with. Sometimes you spend money in part you really don't need for street use. THANKSSSSS!