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Last week I found a junkyard that had a crashed 2014 countryman. Scored both the front larger cup holders and rear cup holders for $50. They weren't in the best condition, but for $50 I wasn't going to complain. Popped those in at lunch today. Turns out there isn't an extra 12v in the rail.. drat.
I had a similar issue when I tried to put in a 12v rear socket. Found a white plug under the centre rails but not sure if it can be used. It was wrapped up in the harness.
I got items 3,4 and 11 to go in but need some adapter I think to get the white plug to cigarette lighter/12v plug.
yours might also have one if you fish around.
Oh awesome! I did not see that but I'll get back into there this weekend if the weather is crap. That should be very easy to figure out.
Originally Posted by mini500
I had a similar issue when I tried to put in a 12v rear socket. Found a white plug under the centre rails but not sure if it can be used. It was wrapped up in the harness.
I got items 3,4 and 11 to go in but need some adapter I think to get the white plug to cigarette lighter/12v plug.
yours might also have one if you fish around.
I had a similar issue when I tried to put in a 12v rear socket. Found a white plug under the centre rails but not sure if it can be used. It was wrapped up in the harness.
I got items 3,4 and 11 to go in but need some adapter I think to get the white plug to cigarette lighter/12v plug.
yours might also have one if you fish around.
Nope. Just took it all apart, nothing. But I already do have a rear cig lighter between the rear bench seats, so I'm assuming that cable went there. I'm just going to 3d print a cover or something to go on it to block off the whole.
Its more for the cup holders for my kids than anything.
I have the back of the cig lighter plug if you need that. You'd just need to identify the 12v+ and 12v- (brown is negative in the mini usually) and splice it in.
I’ve been thinking over over again what size tire I should get..I was thinking 225/40 19 and I was also wondering if 225/35 going to be too stiff of a ride. any suggestions? My car is lowered 1.5” and I would like to keep it like that.
I have the back of the cig lighter plug if you need that. You'd just need to identify the 12v+ and 12v- (brown is negative in the mini usually) and splice it in.
Thanks that is very kind. I’m in the UK though.
I’ll find something that will work in there!
Went ahead and replaced the in tank fuel pump this afternoon. It was running fine but the gas tank level was getting erratic, alternating randomly between the actual value and full....
Followed some of the online guides as well as a new pump, gasket, and tool from ECS Tuning. Probably the only thing that threw me a curve ball was releasing the clip for the fuel line on top of the pump. To release the blue clip you have to put in two small screwdrivers into the little holes, perpendicular to the fuel line and twist them like little prybars gently towards the driver side and the clip will push out towards the door. Once you pull straight up on the fuel line with the blue clip removed a little bit of gas will come out. The pump removal tool made it really easy to get the locking ring off, I have read you can do it with a screw driver and hammer on one of the little bumps of the trim ring also This was it after removing the back passenger seat, popped right out Old pump under the solver cover. Arrow on the cover faces forward New pump installed, everything working perfect right out of the gate, fuel gauge working properly again!
I used the 7" "navsgo" unit and a homemade bracket to mount it below Mickey. I am in the process of adding a MINI start-up screen to it.
I do not have a factory alarm but missed the OCD beep when I locked it. I used a little siren thingy wired to the lock signal wire. Works great and it is not very loud at all, just loud enough to hear something from 10' away. Took about 10mins to install but, I bet I could do it in 2.5-5mins now.....3-2-1 GO
Do you mind sharing which fuse or wire did you tapped the siren to?
I used the 7" "navsgo" unit and a homemade bracket to mount it below Mickey. I am in the process of adding a MINI start-up screen to it.
I do not have a factory alarm but missed the OCD beep when I locked it. I used a little siren thingy wired to the lock signal wire. Works great and it is not very loud at all, just loud enough to hear something from 10' away. Took about 10mins to install but, I bet I could do it in 2.5-5mins now.....3-2-1 GO
Do you mind sharing which fuse or wire did you tapped the siren to?
Forgive me friends for I have sinned.
I have 2 Jeeps. 1 is my wifes, 1 is mine but needs a battery. So MINI it was this snowy morning. I live on a relatively rural dirt road where the snow blows and builds up decent. Hopefully my picture attaches. It's a good 12-14 inches in my unplowed driveway, you can see the bottom of the car dragging. Backed out blind into the road, thank goodness some brave soul had already made a set of tracks for me or the MINI wouldn't have made it. TSC system fully off, stuck crooked in the existing tire ruts spinning the tires the whole way for .5 mile. I was stuck initially but she managed to pull herself out, even with the highway tires she is wearing. If I was in my Jeep I wouldn't balk at this snow, and I'm sure with good tires the MINIs could do a lot more than I'm giving it credit for here. But, I'm impressed. Poor car.
The first pic is backing out of the driveway over untouched snow. The second is me stuck trying to get going after backing out in the road. The pictures don't show the depth all that well.
My mini was in the shop getting a new radiator after it got a hole in it. So that morning I drove my wife’s jeep Cherokee that morning when we got all that snow. Got to say it was nice in the deep snow. If I would have taken my mini the 45 minute drive to work would have been double. But my mini is fixed($1000 later)ugg. Damn radiator. Why couldn’t it just be a bad hose.
Just bought my 2011 Mini Countryman S All4 I love the car, had to get a manual. I re-carpeted the false deck in the trunk and the silicon mat under the E-Break, I think it turned out great. I got a lot of parts coming that I'm going to replace. Oil filter housing gasket, oil cooler gaskets, turbo feed/return line and of course the oil.
Put on the summer wheels and tires and lubed the bushings for the NM rear sway bar. The winter tires are fine but it's a completely different car on the summers.
Was watching a video on Youtube of the PhatBits UK Steering Wheel Covers, decided to try one out, really love it compared to the Non-JCW molded wheel. I took it off to stitch the cover on because of the Paddles are kindof in the way. Love the feeling compared to the stock. Wheel with Phatbits UK Perforated Leather/Alcantara stitched cover + Carbon Inserts Factory R60 Wheel
Put the M7 lift in, stepped down to 16 inch wheels, put some 225/70/16 Toyo Open Country AT III tires on them. Getting alignment Tuesday.
Agreed! The lift and tires (and car generally) look great @VILELEPRECHAUN !
I have a relatively new to me 2013 Countryman S All4 (R60) and I just placed my orders earlier this week for Flatout Suspension's GR Lites (2" lift) and essentially all of the chassis (non-engine/performance) related parts from M7 Speed (i.e. sway bar, end links, strut tower brace, skid plate, et cetera). REALLY looking forward getting it all installed by a local shop (recommendations in the Newark, NJ area or broader welcome!). The only things I haven't ordered yet are the tires but based on some of the other threads and comments, I'm going to go with the Falken Wildpeak A/T3W's in 215/65r17 with the stock 17" anthracite split spoke wheels and 15mm wheel spacers. Can't wait! I will be sure to document the process as much as I can and then post up some photos and details here.
Also, @VILELEPRECHAUN , what wheel setup is that (i.e. brand, size, wheel spacers needed)? I'm planning on using the stock 17" split spoke for now but will most likely want to eventually update the wheels to complete the build and package at some point in the future.
Also, @VILELEPRECHAUN , what wheel setup is that (i.e. brand, size, wheel spacers needed)? I'm planning on using the stock 17" split spoke for now but will most likely want to eventually update the wheels to complete the build and package at some point in the future.
I ditched my 18's and went to 16's. Tires are cheaper and I like more tire less wheel. I don't have nor did I need spacers. There is a tiny bit of rubbing in front at full turn 🤷♂️ it's gonna actually get used out in the woods and mountains so I will upgrade and modify as I break stuff lol.
Put the M7 lift in, stepped down to 16 inch wheels, put some 225/70/16 Toyo Open Country AT III tires on them. Getting alignment Tuesday.
I don't have a Countryman but if trade my Clubman I am soooo doing this to the CM I get! I love the idea of a lift. WOuld allow me to drive to Tahoe, Yosemite and J tree this summer without putting miles on the old Xterra.
RE: "Put the M7 lift in, stepped down to 16 inch wheels, put some 225/70/16 Toyo Open Country AT III tires on them. Getting alignment Tuesday."
Hey,
I just finished installing the Stage 4 kit from m7 (sway bar, end links, camber arms/links) and on a test drive around the neighborhood, the rear suspension seem to be louder, clunkier. Is this something you noticed from your install? I'm worried I have loose components but I went back and everything is tight as it should be. I'm just wondering if this is the new normal.
Secondly, I see you also have an ALL4. Did you have that one sensor that was on the camber link that was replaced? It has a piece connected to the camber link with an arm going to a sensor. What did you do with that? Did you just disconnect it? I have no idea what it is so, I found the best way I could think to fasten it where the original placement was.
Thanks!
Last edited by stickshft; 05-28-2021 at 05:41 PM.
Reason: clarity
01-14-2021, 11:14 AM
