R60 What did you do to your Countryman TODAY?
#3226
Just dialed in the rear ride height a bit, installed a water temp adapter pipe (no gauges installed yet), and installed the upgrade design Diverter valve. Big difference in power delivery after shifts. No more serious loss of boost. Compared both old and new units, no big difference in appearance and no visible signs of wear, but that old spring was tired and slow compared to the new one. 10/10 would recommend.
The following users liked this post:
ECSTuning (05-23-2022)
#3228
#3229
This week I'm installing:
CAE shifter
Carbon fiber hood (reduced ~25lb)
GP carbon fiber rear wing
Android Nav screen w/back up camera
In 1-2 months I'll be installed:
Sparco steering wheel
5 lb Li-ion battery (reduces ~30lb)
Carbon fiber front seats (reduces ~40-60lbs)
Water injection system
Red/white vinyl wrap (think WRC car)
In 6-9 months:
custom drive axles (to hold more torque)
custom built GTX28 low trim turbo
custom exhaust manifold
custom fuel system
RMW 1.8L stroker engine
Custom tune by Prototype-R
Goals: 2700 lbs (or lighter) and 450HP
CAE shifter
Carbon fiber hood (reduced ~25lb)
GP carbon fiber rear wing
Android Nav screen w/back up camera
In 1-2 months I'll be installed:
Sparco steering wheel
5 lb Li-ion battery (reduces ~30lb)
Carbon fiber front seats (reduces ~40-60lbs)
Water injection system
Red/white vinyl wrap (think WRC car)
In 6-9 months:
custom drive axles (to hold more torque)
custom built GTX28 low trim turbo
custom exhaust manifold
custom fuel system
RMW 1.8L stroker engine
Custom tune by Prototype-R
Goals: 2700 lbs (or lighter) and 450HP
Last edited by AWD_Rally; 11-03-2022 at 04:26 PM.
#3230
I wanted to start this thread because it's pretty cool to know what everyone is doing to their Countryman's on a daily basis. This thread is popular on the FJ Cruiser forums I'm on so I decided to start one here.
There's a lot I've done so far like window tint, Eclipse Sun Shade, ECU Tune, custom sound system, and much more to come.
So I'll start from today...what did I do to my Countryman today?
Added an AFE high flow "dry" filter. Thanks Scott from AFE!! The Countryman R60 filter is the same filter on the R56 Engines so it fits perfect. 100% washable and re-usable. Oh, and for those not willing to go with a aftermarket CAI but want a bit more turbo whoosh, this definitely increases the sound but not like an open filter will do and it also increases air flow so more HP.
There's a lot I've done so far like window tint, Eclipse Sun Shade, ECU Tune, custom sound system, and much more to come.
So I'll start from today...what did I do to my Countryman today?
Added an AFE high flow "dry" filter. Thanks Scott from AFE!! The Countryman R60 filter is the same filter on the R56 Engines so it fits perfect. 100% washable and re-usable. Oh, and for those not willing to go with a aftermarket CAI but want a bit more turbo whoosh, this definitely increases the sound but not like an open filter will do and it also increases air flow so more HP.
#3231
The following 3 users liked this post by AWD_Rally:
#3232
Misfire R60, help.
I’ve got a 2013 Countryman S. not sure where to post this, so I’ll try here.
Engine misfire and after much work they continue.
Checked all sensors, replaced sparks and coils and the fuel injectors too.
I’m at a loss for what to do next.
Feeling defeated and without much direction.
I replaced the turbo and the misfires then started.
What are the chances that the ignition coil wiring harness is to blame?
Nothing was forced and all connections went in where they were supposed to go.
The misfire is in cylinder 4 but code shows others too except #2
Any suggestions as to next step?
Thank you for your help 🙏
Engine misfire and after much work they continue.
Checked all sensors, replaced sparks and coils and the fuel injectors too.
I’m at a loss for what to do next.
Feeling defeated and without much direction.
I replaced the turbo and the misfires then started.
What are the chances that the ignition coil wiring harness is to blame?
Nothing was forced and all connections went in where they were supposed to go.
The misfire is in cylinder 4 but code shows others too except #2
Any suggestions as to next step?
Thank you for your help 🙏
#3233
You should have led with "I replaced the turbo."
Questions. Is it a larger turbo? Stock, aftermarket?
If larger, who did your software update, ecu flash? Did you change recirc valve, CAI, downpipe, etc.
List everything that changed, or was removed and reinstalled.
Last, but not least. How old is your battery. Sounds trivial, but yeah a 5 year old 11.8 volt battery will cause a misfire. If you get a new battery, be sure to register it in the ecu.
Questions. Is it a larger turbo? Stock, aftermarket?
If larger, who did your software update, ecu flash? Did you change recirc valve, CAI, downpipe, etc.
List everything that changed, or was removed and reinstalled.
Last, but not least. How old is your battery. Sounds trivial, but yeah a 5 year old 11.8 volt battery will cause a misfire. If you get a new battery, be sure to register it in the ecu.
I’ve got a 2013 Countryman S. not sure where to post this, so I’ll try here.
Engine misfire and after much work they continue.
Checked all sensors, replaced sparks and coils and the fuel injectors too.
I’m at a loss for what to do next.
Feeling defeated and without much direction.
I replaced the turbo and the misfires then started.
What are the chances that the ignition coil wiring harness is to blame?
Nothing was forced and all connections went in where they were supposed to go.
The misfire is in cylinder 4 but code shows others too except #2
Any suggestions as to next step?
Thank you for your help 🙏
Engine misfire and after much work they continue.
Checked all sensors, replaced sparks and coils and the fuel injectors too.
I’m at a loss for what to do next.
Feeling defeated and without much direction.
I replaced the turbo and the misfires then started.
What are the chances that the ignition coil wiring harness is to blame?
Nothing was forced and all connections went in where they were supposed to go.
The misfire is in cylinder 4 but code shows others too except #2
Any suggestions as to next step?
Thank you for your help 🙏
#3234
Yes it’s a larger turbo. Went from S to stock JCW. From what I understood before purchasing the JCW turbo, mini’s ECU would adapt to the slightly higher boost without problems as a tune was something I was looking into for the future. Recirc, DP, intercooler and intake are all stock. Took the front end off for installation of the turbo too. Otherwise everything else was left untouched.
Battery was replaced in January
Battery was replaced in January
You should have led with "I replaced the turbo."
Questions. Is it a larger turbo? Stock, aftermarket?
If larger, who did your software update, ecu flash? Did you change recirc valve, CAI, downpipe, etc.
List everything that changed, or was removed and reinstalled.
Last, but not least. How old is your battery. Sounds trivial, but yeah a 5 year old 11.8 volt battery will cause a misfire. If you get a new battery, be sure to register it in the ecu.
Questions. Is it a larger turbo? Stock, aftermarket?
If larger, who did your software update, ecu flash? Did you change recirc valve, CAI, downpipe, etc.
List everything that changed, or was removed and reinstalled.
Last, but not least. How old is your battery. Sounds trivial, but yeah a 5 year old 11.8 volt battery will cause a misfire. If you get a new battery, be sure to register it in the ecu.
#3235
Probably should start your own thread for this, this is a pretty significant problem and deserves its' own place.
This might seem obvious, but how far did you go with taking the front end off to replace the turbo? Really didn't need to. Though, I don't know enough about these cars in depth to say there is an electrical connection possibly damaged.
Obviously, friend, the JCW turbo is probably the issue. Indeed, there might be documentation out there saying the ECU will just adapt. And maybe it can, but it seems yours is not for some reason.
Be patient, someone on here will help you more than I can. You might wish to post a city, state location a couple of hours away from your home, for security purposes, that you are willing to drive to. Someone on here might know the location and advise a good tuning shop.
Welcome to the forum.
This might seem obvious, but how far did you go with taking the front end off to replace the turbo? Really didn't need to. Though, I don't know enough about these cars in depth to say there is an electrical connection possibly damaged.
Obviously, friend, the JCW turbo is probably the issue. Indeed, there might be documentation out there saying the ECU will just adapt. And maybe it can, but it seems yours is not for some reason.
Be patient, someone on here will help you more than I can. You might wish to post a city, state location a couple of hours away from your home, for security purposes, that you are willing to drive to. Someone on here might know the location and advise a good tuning shop.
Welcome to the forum.
#3236
Thank you, I’ll make a new thread.
I’ll see if I can get in touch with a tuner. I have a feeling I may have damaged the ecu though. I tested the voltage to the coils and I have no voltage on cyl4 while running and I’ve heard that no voltage to an injector is an indicator of a faulty ecu. Maybe it’s the same for coil?
in terms of taking the front end off, I put it in service mode then ended up disconnecting, supporting and swivelling the rad support off to the side. The only sensors that I was close to and took off were turbo related or the o2 sensors so I don’t think it’s there.
I do agree it’s probably the turbo that caused it. Unfortunate but live and learn I guess.
Thanks for your help so far, I really appreciate it.
I’ll see if I can get in touch with a tuner. I have a feeling I may have damaged the ecu though. I tested the voltage to the coils and I have no voltage on cyl4 while running and I’ve heard that no voltage to an injector is an indicator of a faulty ecu. Maybe it’s the same for coil?
in terms of taking the front end off, I put it in service mode then ended up disconnecting, supporting and swivelling the rad support off to the side. The only sensors that I was close to and took off were turbo related or the o2 sensors so I don’t think it’s there.
I do agree it’s probably the turbo that caused it. Unfortunate but live and learn I guess.
Thanks for your help so far, I really appreciate it.
#3237
New to us 2011 R60 All4 S manual with 92k miles for our son. Needed ALOT of maintenance, but no rust. This was all done over 3 weeks
- timing chain, VANOS sprockets and solenoids, front crank seal
- valve cover/PCV, coils, spark plugs
- oil cooler, oil pan gaskets, turbo drain line
- water pump & pulley, coolant pipe, hoses, thermostat housing, system flush
- pass side motor mount, tensioner, drive belt
- front and rear pads and rotors, rear calipers, fluid flush
she purrs like new now, no oil or coolant leaks, for which our driveway is very grateful
today replaced all the exterior lights with LEDs and polished the headlamps (more work to do there). Need to do some hood and roof work to deal with clear coat failures, but she's a keeper.
- timing chain, VANOS sprockets and solenoids, front crank seal
- valve cover/PCV, coils, spark plugs
- oil cooler, oil pan gaskets, turbo drain line
- water pump & pulley, coolant pipe, hoses, thermostat housing, system flush
- pass side motor mount, tensioner, drive belt
- front and rear pads and rotors, rear calipers, fluid flush
she purrs like new now, no oil or coolant leaks, for which our driveway is very grateful
today replaced all the exterior lights with LEDs and polished the headlamps (more work to do there). Need to do some hood and roof work to deal with clear coat failures, but she's a keeper.
Last edited by bradnic; 05-03-2023 at 06:55 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by bradnic:
#3238
New to us 2011 R60 All4 S manual with 92k miles for our son. Needed ALOT of maintenance, but no rust. This was all done over 3 weeks
- timing chain, VANOS sprockets and solenoids, front crank seal
- valve cover/PCV, coils, spark plugs
- oil cooler, oil pan gaskets, turbo drain line
- water pump & pulley, coolant pipe, hoses, thermostat housing, system flush
- pass side motor mount, tensioner, drive belt
- front and rear pads and rotors, rear calipers, fluid flush
she purrs like new now, no oil or coolant leaks, for which our driveway is very grateful
today replaced all the exterior lights with LEDs and polished the headlamps (more work to do there). Need to do some hood and roof work to deal with clear coat failures, but she's a keeper.
- timing chain, VANOS sprockets and solenoids, front crank seal
- valve cover/PCV, coils, spark plugs
- oil cooler, oil pan gaskets, turbo drain line
- water pump & pulley, coolant pipe, hoses, thermostat housing, system flush
- pass side motor mount, tensioner, drive belt
- front and rear pads and rotors, rear calipers, fluid flush
she purrs like new now, no oil or coolant leaks, for which our driveway is very grateful
today replaced all the exterior lights with LEDs and polished the headlamps (more work to do there). Need to do some hood and roof work to deal with clear coat failures, but she's a keeper.
#3239
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
#3240
100% DIY. Fortunate to have the skills patience and the basic special tools needed for the work - and a lift because I'm too darn old to do this any other way.
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
#3241
thanks! NAM mini2 and YouTube were indispensable, as well as a Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool and a very reasonable subscription to the service manuals from eautorepair.net. I did have a bit of an issue with a key FOB which I’ll get sorted at the dealer. Also neglected to tighten the ground strap to the new passenger motor mount properly on reassembly.. that led to some nasty CAS errors and assuming the worst. Fortunately common sense prevailed before I started taking the dash apart to get to the CAS module.
#3242
#3243
#3244
100% DIY. Fortunate to have the skills patience and the basic special tools needed for the work - and a lift because I'm too darn old to do this any other way.
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
Last edited by motorana; 06-20-2023 at 01:01 PM. Reason: remove icon
#3245
Glad its fixed, could have done aftermarket on most those items and saved $$$. Borg warner turbo ( maker of Genuine MINI turbo, same thing) stock size: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-borgwarn...657600890~bwt/
I am here if you need help.
Timing chain kits and Tools here, their is also a Cryo version: https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...Engine/Timing/
I am here if you need help.
Timing chain kits and Tools here, their is also a Cryo version: https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...Engine/Timing/
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 07-31-2023 at 11:50 AM.
#3246
We got a new Countryman S All4 in 2012 and it currently has 87k miles. Just got the Countryman back from the local euro cars specialist ( independent mechanic ).
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
#3247
We got a new Countryman S All4 in 2012 and it currently has 87k miles. Just got the Countryman back from the local euro cars specialist ( independent mechanic ).
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
My son’s R60 went 3500 miles since the major repairs without a hitch. Late last week he had startup issues and I ended up having to replace the HPFP. A PSA (Peugeot - co-designer of the engine) OEM HPFP costs $750, the Mini one - exact same part - over $1100. I went with the PSA. Of course that was the one major engine part other than the clutch and turbo that I didn’t address. So I’ll grab a Borg Warner turbo and Sachs clutch when the time comes,
#3248
That’s indeed a stunning bill, wow. Other folks posted about “OE” vs “OEM” parts.. that makes a lot of sense for some things like the turbo.
My son’s R60 went 3500 miles since the major repairs without a hitch. Late last week he had startup issues and I ended up having to replace the HPFP. A PSA (Peugeot - co-designer of the engine) OEM HPFP costs $750, the Mini one - exact same part - over $1100. I went with the PSA. Of course that was the one major engine part other than the clutch and turbo that I didn’t address. So I’ll grab a Borg Warner turbo and Sachs clutch when the time comes,
My son’s R60 went 3500 miles since the major repairs without a hitch. Late last week he had startup issues and I ended up having to replace the HPFP. A PSA (Peugeot - co-designer of the engine) OEM HPFP costs $750, the Mini one - exact same part - over $1100. I went with the PSA. Of course that was the one major engine part other than the clutch and turbo that I didn’t address. So I’ll grab a Borg Warner turbo and Sachs clutch when the time comes,
#3249
Wow, I honestly can't even fathom those #'s especially from an independent shop. I have a 2016 S All 4 and if the shop said $7k in repairs needed I would junk it. I do need a new timing chain and am waiting for some quotes or I do it myself it they come in ridiculous. It doesn't look like fun but also not $3.5k worth of work in my opinion. Did they pull the whole motor to do all the work and that's why it was so expensive? I think the timing chain cassette is ~$300, special tools another $50-60.
#3250
Hmm my timing chain kit was a lot more than that - in the 400s. I do think the $1689 parts quote to @motorana was beyond excessive though - absurd. Including the HPFP I have close to $3500 in parts alone, but that includes the timing chain kit, HPFP, brakes rotors and calipers, hoses, Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool, valve cover, thermostat housing, water pump, motor mounts, fluids, some replacement trim panels, a stripe kit for when I repair the clearcoat.. I probably missed something there