R60 when you had the new clutch put in...
#26
06-05-2013 | 05:45 PM
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Jersey City, NJ
#27
06-05-2013 | 06:14 PM
6th Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,370
Likes: 2
Here's the part list from the service invoice:
1@ 23.11.7.545.084 pressure pin
1@ 23.11.7.568.467 clutch rel. fork lev
1@ 21.20.8.606.067 et clutch parts
1@ 35.31.1.165.566 compression spring
4@ 83.22.0.432.558 oil for manual tran
2@ 31.10.6.768.886 hexagon nut with co
2@ 31.10.6.773.005 hex nut with flange
2@ 37.10.6.789.678 hex nut with flange
1@ 18.30.2.756.352 clamp
2@ 31.35.6.757.707 hex nut with plate
Here is the commentary on the invoice from when they diagnosed the problem:
"Test drove vehicle and verified the clutch to slip and have excessive chatter during engagement. Inspected the clutch pedal travel, hydraulic components, and clutch releases fully. Removed clutch and inspected it, found it to show signs of heat cracks on the disc and glazing on the pressure plate. Installed new clutch with required hardware, filled trans fluid, and test drove. verified the clutch to engage smoothly and vehicle to now drive properly."
I don't even know what a slipping clutch feels like, but according to them, it was slipping. Does a slipping clutch cause the car to shudder and stall when you don't have enough forward motion to propel the car? i always thought that releasing the clutch provided a certain amount of forward motion and you give it an inordinate amount of gas to get it going, and then the gear engaged. At least this is how I've driven all my other cars, and how I learned to drive a manual. I've driven an automatic transmission that's slipping, and after the RPMS get too high then the transmission thuds when it finally gets into gear. I can tell you I wasn't experiencing anything remotely similar to this type of situation when trying to get into first gear. I'm still waiting for the service advisor to call me back to tell me when to bring the car back. I have no faith that this car will make it into a mid to high mileage age given these types of issues with only 10k miles on the car. I am wondering if the lemon law comes into play at a certain point if they can't fix the shuddering while shifting into 1st gear.
1@ 23.11.7.545.084 pressure pin
1@ 23.11.7.568.467 clutch rel. fork lev
1@ 21.20.8.606.067 et clutch parts
1@ 35.31.1.165.566 compression spring
4@ 83.22.0.432.558 oil for manual tran
2@ 31.10.6.768.886 hexagon nut with co
2@ 31.10.6.773.005 hex nut with flange
2@ 37.10.6.789.678 hex nut with flange
1@ 18.30.2.756.352 clamp
2@ 31.35.6.757.707 hex nut with plate
Here is the commentary on the invoice from when they diagnosed the problem:
"Test drove vehicle and verified the clutch to slip and have excessive chatter during engagement. Inspected the clutch pedal travel, hydraulic components, and clutch releases fully. Removed clutch and inspected it, found it to show signs of heat cracks on the disc and glazing on the pressure plate. Installed new clutch with required hardware, filled trans fluid, and test drove. verified the clutch to engage smoothly and vehicle to now drive properly."
I don't even know what a slipping clutch feels like, but according to them, it was slipping. Does a slipping clutch cause the car to shudder and stall when you don't have enough forward motion to propel the car? i always thought that releasing the clutch provided a certain amount of forward motion and you give it an inordinate amount of gas to get it going, and then the gear engaged. At least this is how I've driven all my other cars, and how I learned to drive a manual. I've driven an automatic transmission that's slipping, and after the RPMS get too high then the transmission thuds when it finally gets into gear. I can tell you I wasn't experiencing anything remotely similar to this type of situation when trying to get into first gear. I'm still waiting for the service advisor to call me back to tell me when to bring the car back. I have no faith that this car will make it into a mid to high mileage age given these types of issues with only 10k miles on the car. I am wondering if the lemon law comes into play at a certain point if they can't fix the shuddering while shifting into 1st gear.
#28
06-05-2013 | 06:33 PM
6th Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,370
Likes: 2
To answer another question you had... When they took your car for a test drive they notice the clutch to slip and chatter... You say the car shuddered I think both of those are the same as far as description is concerned .. But the reason for this chatter or shudder is from the clutch disc not matting flush between either the pressure plate or flywheel or both Thus causing the car to shudder and or chatter on take off in first gear..
#29
06-05-2013 | 06:50 PM
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
...clutch chattering and the clutch pedal too high. performed sib 21-01-13. removed the transmission and found that the clutch disc was worn. the measurement was 0.67mm. the minimum allowed is 1.0mm. also inspected the flywheel which had hot spots and faded.... replaced flywheel assembly as well due to the clutch overheating and causing heat spots....
#30
06-07-2013 | 07:37 AM
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: CT
Service replaced/upgraded to the 2013 clutch a few weeks back and all seemed fine until this week! A lot of stumbling, jerking when accelerating from a slow speed... Not necessarily from a stop position as the old clutch. Has happened in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Mostly 2nd & 3rd! Emailed service last evening waitng for there reply.... Any thoughts ??
I am scheduled in for the 13th for a few minor issues with the newly installed gauges...
Then off to MOT in NH the following Wkend.......Is this clutch related or an engine issue ??
I am scheduled in for the 13th for a few minor issues with the newly installed gauges...
Then off to MOT in NH the following Wkend.......Is this clutch related or an engine issue ??
#33
06-07-2013 | 08:10 PM
Thread Starter
|
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 668
Likes: 1
From: Lone Tree, CO.
Service replaced/upgraded to the 2013 clutch a few weeks back and all seemed fine until this week! A lot of stumbling, jerking when accelerating from a slow speed... Not necessarily from a stop position as the old clutch. Has happened in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Mostly 2nd & 3rd! Emailed service last evening waitng for there reply.... Any thoughts ??
I am scheduled in for the 13th for a few minor issues with the newly installed gauges...
Then off to MOT in NH the following Wkend.......Is this clutch related or an engine issue ??
I am scheduled in for the 13th for a few minor issues with the newly installed gauges...
Then off to MOT in NH the following Wkend.......Is this clutch related or an engine issue ??
#34
06-08-2013 | 01:13 AM
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: CT
#35
06-09-2013 | 08:47 AM
Neutral
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
The clutch assembly (including the flywheel) was replaced on my 2012 Countryman last week (@ around 25K MI), and the difference is dramatic--from pedal feel and engagement to overall power! While the work was being done a drove a 2013 CMSALL4 (auto), which was like driving a totally different car. Mine could only come close to that performance while in "SPORT" mode! With the replacement clutch, etc., my 2012 now drives like the 2013--as much as an manual can drive like an auto that is! I actually enjoy driving the car once more. (No burning smell either and so far, no hesitation under hard acceleration at high speeds, which was another related [?] issue I was having. I'll still be keeping an eye on that one though). Based upon my positive experience and those others that I have read about here, push for the flywheel replacement with your dealer as well! Good luck to all.
#36
06-11-2013 | 04:12 AM
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: CT
So here's the email I received yesterday from my SA, after dropping of my Countryman Saturday in regards to the jerking/stuttering while accelerating in 2nd, 3rd & even 4th.
Hi Fred,
Just checking in with an update;
The rattle, and trim rings are fixed on your MINI. We are looking in to the wiring now to see if it’s correct or wherever that may take us for the lighting issue.
The industrial like smell is just a bit of the leftover clutch material from having the bell housing open, or possibly just the new clutch wearing in, but there are no leaks or any other issues to report for the cause of a smell. We were able to verify the clutch smell once your Countryman was in the air, and noticing the smell most prominent near the bell housing.
We were able to find the reason you lost your power as well… Looks like your air intake heat shield is bolted to the ground harness for your injectors. The bolt backed off causing your injectors to cut out while the ground wasn’t maintained. We were able to add a washer to increase the ground contact point and keep the intake heat shield secure. The bad news is that I can’t charge MINI warranty for that repair as it was caused by the aftermarket component.
The shifter trim ring is still on order with Darin, should be another week or so until we see it.
We are working on getting the driver side driving lamp assembly here sooner than the original date for your appointment.
Thank you!
Hope you had a good weekend!
Brandon
Keep It MINI!
Does that sound right ?? I'm not a gear head by any means...and NCM and there service team have been great with me over the years...
Could a bolt cause that. I told them to remove if it were an issue!
Comments and or advice would be welcome.
Hi Fred,
Just checking in with an update;
The rattle, and trim rings are fixed on your MINI. We are looking in to the wiring now to see if it’s correct or wherever that may take us for the lighting issue.
The industrial like smell is just a bit of the leftover clutch material from having the bell housing open, or possibly just the new clutch wearing in, but there are no leaks or any other issues to report for the cause of a smell. We were able to verify the clutch smell once your Countryman was in the air, and noticing the smell most prominent near the bell housing.
We were able to find the reason you lost your power as well… Looks like your air intake heat shield is bolted to the ground harness for your injectors. The bolt backed off causing your injectors to cut out while the ground wasn’t maintained. We were able to add a washer to increase the ground contact point and keep the intake heat shield secure. The bad news is that I can’t charge MINI warranty for that repair as it was caused by the aftermarket component.
The shifter trim ring is still on order with Darin, should be another week or so until we see it.
We are working on getting the driver side driving lamp assembly here sooner than the original date for your appointment.
Thank you!
Hope you had a good weekend!
Brandon
Keep It MINI!
Does that sound right ?? I'm not a gear head by any means...and NCM and there service team have been great with me over the years...
Could a bolt cause that. I told them to remove if it were an issue!
Comments and or advice would be welcome.
#37
06-11-2013 | 04:43 PM
Thread Starter
|
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 668
Likes: 1
From: Lone Tree, CO.
#38
06-11-2013 | 06:08 PM
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: CT
I didn't know there was a factory installed heat shield..... Mine was was a VIP aftermarket
but installed almost 2 years ago...As far as the smell.. I'm pretty sure the fly wheel was inspected but not replaced.
They know I'm heading up to MOT in NH in a few weeks and hoping they'll make good on everything without any issues on my trip.....
but installed almost 2 years ago...As far as the smell.. I'm pretty sure the fly wheel was inspected but not replaced.
They know I'm heading up to MOT in NH in a few weeks and hoping they'll make good on everything without any issues on my trip.....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Colt45Magnus
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
21
08-12-2015 06:43 AM