R60 Fuel Injector Replacement Guide
#1
Fuel Injector Replacement Guide
Fuel Injection Replace Guide
Our R60 All4 at 70K something miles through on the check engine light, and it read P0301 Miss Fire in Cylinder 1. Swapped Ignition coils from 1 to 4 and 4 to 1 and same error code came up. Stop using at as a daily driving car now only gets maybe 50 driving miles a week. Purchase a new factory coil and replaced 1 code still came up with P0303 Miss Fire in Cylinder 3. So went ahead and replaced the remaining coils. Pour a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate about every fill up and have always used Chevron Premium 93 octane. And now on cold days and when it sits over night the car will turn over but putter for 5 seconds then die. Turn over 2 or 3 times again and starts up. And when you drive it runs fine unless you come to a complete stop and have to give the car gas or if you need to pass anyone the car starts to studded or thump. Would LIKE to take it to the dealer to run a diagnostics on it but thats $180 investment need to save for. Finally purchased Fuel Injectors with seals and Manifold seals from ECS Tuning.
**DISCLAIMER** not a mechanic, work for any auto body shop or BMW/MINI
**UPDATE 26/10/2014**
Replaced the Fuel Injectors. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. What I found that was the easiest was to remove the air box and tube that connects to the turbo and the tubing that comes out of the intercooler to the throttle body, this way you have more room to move around in. Also removing about 10 to 15 sensor connection so you do not damage these in anyway. I was unable to unscrew the Ground wire for the Ignition Coil wire, you need to use a low profile 9 to 11mm wrench. I did not have one but it is a hair smaller than a 7/16 wrench. You remove the Manifold and throttle body to get to the fuel rail and injectors. Remove fuel line from High Pressure Fuel Pump. The fuel rail takes some muscle and wiggling for it to come out. If any of the Fuel Injectors stay in the engine a pair of vice grips can be used to pull them out. ONLY DO THIS IF REPLACING INJECTOR. The electrical connection on the fuel rail is a little difficult to remove. The little locking mechanism you push down on with great force and pull. Be careful not to pull on any wires or this may lead to a $300 engine electric wiring harness unit replacement. When placing the NEW fuel injectors lube them up with either gasoline or petroleum jelly, I used gasoline,you can place them into the engine then put the fuel rail on and tighten down the Torx 45 bolts. Replaced Intake Manifold gaskets as well. Placed Intake Manifold back on. Connected the what I believe are Vacuum lines Bracket and the Intake Manifold Support Bracket on last. Then the Throttle body unit. Then the Inlet Air Intake Hose. And connect all the electrical along the way. Insert key and put the vehicle in the on position and let the fuel line pressurize for about 15 seconds. Turn off and then put the car back in to the on position to start the pressurizing and the start the car. It may take about 2 seconds to turn over because of the fuel that instal in the rails yet. Let it run for 1 minute and take it out for a test drive. Replaced Fuel Injectors at 79300 miles.
Please feel free to add better pictures or video or a better guide than this.
Blots/Screws/Torx/Nuts removed from vehicle are:
Battery Terminal - 10mm nut
Hose Clamp Collar Ring on Air Ducts - 7mm nut
Intake Muffler - Torx 25
Throttle body - Torx 30
Intake Manifold - 25mm nut
Vacuum Bracket - 8mm nut
Manifold Base Backet - 8mm nut
Fuel Line - 14mm Line Wrench
Fuel Rail - Torx 45
Parts purchased at ECSTuning I ordered the Fuel Injectors, these came with the seals already on them, BMW part# 13647600869, You do not need to order there Fuel Injection Seal Kit. Unless you damage the seals.
Parts used:
4 Fuel Injectors - BMW part# 13537591623
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...935/ES1844935/
4 Intake Manifold Gaskets (Profile Gasket) - BMW part# 11617528340
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...25768/ES25768/
1 Throttle body Gasket - BMW part# 11617528341
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...25769/ES25769/
Reused Parts:
4 Back Injector - BMW part# 13537540438
ECSTuning http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/13537540438/ES33690/
4 Torx Screw - BMW part# 07129905491
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/07129905491/ES16133/
Link for Full Size Pictures https://flic.kr/s/aHsk54n4XF
Embedded Pictures:
Dirty Fuel Injectors, Ignition Coil Wires Ground Location, New Fuel Injector, Fuel Rail with Dirty Fuel Injectors, Manifold Bolt Location without Nuts, Manifold Bolt Location with Nuts, Ignition Coil Wire Cover.
Our R60 All4 at 70K something miles through on the check engine light, and it read P0301 Miss Fire in Cylinder 1. Swapped Ignition coils from 1 to 4 and 4 to 1 and same error code came up. Stop using at as a daily driving car now only gets maybe 50 driving miles a week. Purchase a new factory coil and replaced 1 code still came up with P0303 Miss Fire in Cylinder 3. So went ahead and replaced the remaining coils. Pour a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate about every fill up and have always used Chevron Premium 93 octane. And now on cold days and when it sits over night the car will turn over but putter for 5 seconds then die. Turn over 2 or 3 times again and starts up. And when you drive it runs fine unless you come to a complete stop and have to give the car gas or if you need to pass anyone the car starts to studded or thump. Would LIKE to take it to the dealer to run a diagnostics on it but thats $180 investment need to save for. Finally purchased Fuel Injectors with seals and Manifold seals from ECS Tuning.
**DISCLAIMER** not a mechanic, work for any auto body shop or BMW/MINI
**UPDATE 26/10/2014**
Replaced the Fuel Injectors. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. What I found that was the easiest was to remove the air box and tube that connects to the turbo and the tubing that comes out of the intercooler to the throttle body, this way you have more room to move around in. Also removing about 10 to 15 sensor connection so you do not damage these in anyway. I was unable to unscrew the Ground wire for the Ignition Coil wire, you need to use a low profile 9 to 11mm wrench. I did not have one but it is a hair smaller than a 7/16 wrench. You remove the Manifold and throttle body to get to the fuel rail and injectors. Remove fuel line from High Pressure Fuel Pump. The fuel rail takes some muscle and wiggling for it to come out. If any of the Fuel Injectors stay in the engine a pair of vice grips can be used to pull them out. ONLY DO THIS IF REPLACING INJECTOR. The electrical connection on the fuel rail is a little difficult to remove. The little locking mechanism you push down on with great force and pull. Be careful not to pull on any wires or this may lead to a $300 engine electric wiring harness unit replacement. When placing the NEW fuel injectors lube them up with either gasoline or petroleum jelly, I used gasoline,you can place them into the engine then put the fuel rail on and tighten down the Torx 45 bolts. Replaced Intake Manifold gaskets as well. Placed Intake Manifold back on. Connected the what I believe are Vacuum lines Bracket and the Intake Manifold Support Bracket on last. Then the Throttle body unit. Then the Inlet Air Intake Hose. And connect all the electrical along the way. Insert key and put the vehicle in the on position and let the fuel line pressurize for about 15 seconds. Turn off and then put the car back in to the on position to start the pressurizing and the start the car. It may take about 2 seconds to turn over because of the fuel that instal in the rails yet. Let it run for 1 minute and take it out for a test drive. Replaced Fuel Injectors at 79300 miles.
Please feel free to add better pictures or video or a better guide than this.
Blots/Screws/Torx/Nuts removed from vehicle are:
Battery Terminal - 10mm nut
Hose Clamp Collar Ring on Air Ducts - 7mm nut
Intake Muffler - Torx 25
Throttle body - Torx 30
Intake Manifold - 25mm nut
Vacuum Bracket - 8mm nut
Manifold Base Backet - 8mm nut
Fuel Line - 14mm Line Wrench
Fuel Rail - Torx 45
Parts purchased at ECSTuning I ordered the Fuel Injectors, these came with the seals already on them, BMW part# 13647600869, You do not need to order there Fuel Injection Seal Kit. Unless you damage the seals.
Parts used:
4 Fuel Injectors - BMW part# 13537591623
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...935/ES1844935/
4 Intake Manifold Gaskets (Profile Gasket) - BMW part# 11617528340
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...25768/ES25768/
1 Throttle body Gasket - BMW part# 11617528341
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...25769/ES25769/
Reused Parts:
4 Back Injector - BMW part# 13537540438
ECSTuning http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/13537540438/ES33690/
4 Torx Screw - BMW part# 07129905491
ECSTuning Link http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/07129905491/ES16133/
Link for Full Size Pictures https://flic.kr/s/aHsk54n4XF
Embedded Pictures:
Dirty Fuel Injectors, Ignition Coil Wires Ground Location, New Fuel Injector, Fuel Rail with Dirty Fuel Injectors, Manifold Bolt Location without Nuts, Manifold Bolt Location with Nuts, Ignition Coil Wire Cover.
Last edited by G3NSM0R3S; 10-26-2014 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Adding Pictures
#3
Considering that you depressurized the fuel system when removing the injectors, have you tried resetting the code (as it is High Pressure Fuel Pump: Cold Start Pressure Low) to see if the code was just thrown due to the depressurization, as it does take the system a couple seconds to re-pressurize once you turn the ignition on?
#4
Considering that you depressurized the fuel system when removing the injectors, have you tried resetting the code (as it is High Pressure Fuel Pump: Cold Start Pressure Low) to see if the code was just thrown due to the depressurization, as it does take the system a couple seconds to re-pressurize once you turn the ignition on?
#5
Once the car was put back together. I thought I primed the fuel line before doing a full start. Once that was done started the car and still had the check engine light on. I was able to erase the check engine light but the MINI displays Engine Malfunction, running engine at reduced power. But still drivable and use caution. get to a MINI asap.
#6
Well there were no fuel leaks from the injector install. Searched more on this forum site and other search engines and found that it could be a High Pressure Fuel Pump because of issues starting in the morning. So took it to mini and the ran OBD2 scan and found that the HPFP is the issue. That repair through MINI is 917 and some change. The ECS part is $191 so I'll be posting a take apart for that next. Glad to hear that it is not any broken seals in the engine.
High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
BMW part# 13517592429
ECSTuning part# 2136420 http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2136420/
High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
BMW part# 13517592429
ECSTuning part# 2136420 http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2136420/
Last edited by G3NSM0R3S; 10-28-2014 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Added part numbers
#7
Well there were no fuel leaks from the injector install. Searched more on this forum site and other search engines and found that it could be a High Pressure Fuel Pump because of issues starting in the morning. So took it to mini and the ran OBD2 scan and found that the HPFP is the issue. That repair through MINI is 917 and some change. The ECS part is $191 so I'll be posting a take apart for that next. Glad to hear that it is not any broken seals in the engine.
High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
BMW part# 13517592429
ECSTuning part# 2136420 http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2136420/
High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
BMW part# 13517592429
ECSTuning part# 2136420 http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2136420/
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#8
I am fairly certain that didn't show up, but it's a good thing I replaced the injectors seeing how dirty they were. I think I may do a comparison of 4 cleaners and see witch one removes more of the carbon
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