1st Gen Countryman (R60) Talk (2010-2015) R60 Countryman Discussions

R60 Replace Battery R60 2011 Countryman

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Old 08-02-2016, 07:49 PM
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Smile Replace Battery R60 2011 Countryman

I read all the BS about the IBS battery system and the need to register a new battery. I agreed with most writers that it was BS. From my battery experience in mining equipment and marine applications, I knew that if a similar battery(AGM) and similar battery CCA was installed, the only way a system could tell the difference is if Mini put in some chip in the battery but too many people reported replacing a dead battery for that to be true. The "Intelligent" system box (stupid if it could not tell me the battery was going out) is a black box in the battery compartment to the left ( center of car) of the battery and has wires going to the battery.

Anyway, the only other precaution I took was to apply 12V from another car (or spare battery if you have one). I made sure both batteries were similarly charged so no real current was involved and made sure the MINI key was out of the car. I took jumper cables from the second car (not running) and attached the negative to a frame bolt on the MINI. I opened the relay box under the hood on the left (driver side) and took a jumper wire and attached to the lead on incoming wire bolt and connected this to the positive of the jumper cable. Now I had an auxiliary power source for the MINI while I changed out the battery.

I removed the passenger windshield wiper (remove cap and removed nut - easy) and then removed the two right (passenger side) cowling bolts near the hood hinge (10 mm). Pulled back the hood seal from car right side to center of car and then lifted up on plastic cowling right at the base of the windshield. Popped right up. Now I had access to the entire battery compartment. I removed the "positive" bolt (again 10mm nut) removed and taped over all metal surfaces since I had power to the car. Removed the negative (again 10 mm nut) and removed the battery clamp with a phillips screwdriver, and battery was out. Reversed it all with new battery, removed auxiliary power, charged up new battery and all was done. The old alarm of "excess battery discharge" alarm was cleared and all was and is good.

Comments: Other threads reported using the NAPA "OEM" replacement - do NOT as it is a flooded battery and has different charging voltages. I found a very similar AGM battery at Auto Zone. My original was 570 CCA but this was 680 CCA so close enough. It was longer and a little taller but the battery box has plenty of room and could take almost a 12 " battery length. Also, pretty dumb, but MINI elected to use the battery compartment as part of the fresh air intake system so be sure to reconnect the vent to the new battery which is on the right car side of the battery compartment (positive terminal side of battery).

All in all, easy job given that MINI tried to make it difficult.
 
  #2  
Old 08-13-2016, 10:09 AM
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Hi JohnRSail. Came back from family vacation and started my 2011 mini that has been sitting in the drive way for 2 weeks to make sure it cranks. Mini did start as usual but, showed a battery icon on the dash. it's time to replace the original and saw your post. may i ask exact model of the battery you have replaced/purchased from autozone? thanks in advance.

steven
 
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:00 PM
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Kimsc321, I replaced mine with the Duralast Gold part #H5-DLG from AutoZone. I do travel abroad a lot and I have found that the Mini is continually draining the battery doing who knows what. If you have 1/2 battery life or slightly more, a two week park will give you this alarm. I had seen mine do this for a year (after 2 or more weeks parked) before it became obvious that the battery was in it's death throws. I would suggest charging the battery or driving for 45 minutes or so and then take it to an auto parts place and get them to put a tester on it to see the remaining CCA life. I would suggest one of the newer impedance testers ( I happen to own one ). They are good at giving you a good sense of the battery condition. Make sure they disconnect one of the post connectors before testing as the car electronics will cause erroneous results.

Good luck and let me know if I can help further.
 
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:04 PM
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The issues they warn of by not registering the battery wouldn't show up immediately, more of a long term one if you believe them. I consider it to be a not very intelligent battery system, but only time will tell if you beat it.
 
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:15 PM
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All true, and I believe this intelligent system is not very bright unless a chip is placed in the battery as some computers do but it is extremely hard for me to believe is the case. If there was a chip, the system would detect it instantly and give you a warning.
The only way it can damage the battery is to for the battery charging voltage and amperage to be incorrect for the battery. The old flooded batteries (still good batteries), AGM and Gel all have minor charging voltages differences to get the most out of the battery. If the original battery is matched in similar size (CCA equal or higher) and exact type (AGM), then the new battery will match the settings in this "intelligent" system. I checked the charging voltage prior to removal and after and it did not change and it matched the AGM requirements so I think we are safe.
 
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Old 08-13-2016, 01:19 PM
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Do you think the car would run if you replaced the battery cable with a non IBS one?
 
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:55 PM
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That is an interesing guestion. I suspect not as it has to be tied to the computer in some form or fashion. Also, I would not be surprised if it is not used as a voltage regulator to control the alternator votage output to match the battery design. In sophisticated marine applications, there is a similar votage regulator external to the alternator to maximize battery charging without exceeding the capacity of the battery design (and it can be set for your battery of choice). That is the principal logic for my recommendation to stay with an AGM battery (same as original equipment) with similar CCA (same amperage or a little more). That way, the "intelligent" box will control charging at a rate in the manner it was programmed without damaging anything. Again that is my logic as Mini will not tell us what the box does.
 
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:32 AM
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My last reply did not post for some reason. To use a non-IBS battery cable may be possible but you would have to make sure the + and - wires from the IBS box are connected to the appropriate post or the cable near the battery post. My guess it is sensing the voltage at the battery. However, not being sure where those battery cables go to inside the car, it is hard to say from my experience.
 
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:56 AM
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thanks for the info JohnRSail. i will drive for awhile to see if the battery charges up.

steven
 
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:19 PM
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hey john. went out for a drive around the block, 3min later she lit up like a christmas tree and started to loose power steering. good thing i was able to come back to the driveway. went to autozone and got the battery and just finished replacing the battery. the engine came back as normal but, 10 sec later the battery icon came on again. i have read that some mini's have IBS (located on the neg. termimal) which mine does not - meaning i don't need to reprogram the system. is my understanding correct? did your old error came back when replaced with new battery?

steven
 
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:30 AM
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update - on my way to work this morning hoping the error will disappear but, intermittently on and off so, made a u-turn to dealership for diagnosis. they found that the alternator is giving out 11v vs normal 14v. they recommended replacing the alternator. the unit is not covered under extended maintenance and cost is $1600 - eeeek. have no choice...

steven
 
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Old 08-15-2016, 02:49 PM
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Battery replaced

I just purchases a 2012 MINI Countryman S All4. 1 owner with 8K miles. Where I bought it from (Toyota) they barely moved it because they didn't know how to use the key fob. LOL. Anywho, the car sat on the lot for about 90d and last thurs when I attempted to test drive the factory battery died on us twice.

The (Toyota) sales person replaced the battery from Advanced. Luckily, there's a MINI dealership 2 car lots down. How can I tell if they've purchased the right battery? I mean the car is running, but how can i find out that the battery I have will not cause me any issues in the future. I heard replacing the battery is more or less than $400
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:14 PM
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I replaced my CMS battery myself about 8 months ago from lead to AGM, after a day the Battery warning came up and I got some Indi shop to registered it. No problem since. DIY cost me $150 Canadian plus $50 registration. Stealership will charge a least $400-$500 I guess.
 
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dee jaay
I just purchases a 2012 MINI Countryman S All4. 1 owner with 8K miles. Where I bought it from (Toyota) they barely moved it because they didn't know how to use the key fob. LOL. Anywho, the car sat on the lot for about 90d and last thurs when I attempted to test drive the factory battery died on us twice.

The (Toyota) sales person replaced the battery from Advanced. Luckily, there's a MINI dealership 2 car lots down. How can I tell if they've purchased the right battery? I mean the car is running, but how can i find out that the battery I have will not cause me any issues in the future. I heard replacing the battery is more or less than $400
Get the info off your battery and call a mini parts dept. They can find out through your vin.
 
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