R60 Replacing the clutch in our CMS All4
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Well moved past the steering column and now onto pulling transfer case and transmission. I removed Circlip after breaking 2 pairs of snap ring pliers so I used a pair of needle nose and a screw driver. But now I cannot get the slined shaft out. Then onto the tranny, How/what am I suppose to do to get the tranny out? I know I need to disconnect the shift linkage but I can't get it. Any tips? Also how do i remove the tranny mount or whats the best/easiest method for removing it? Any help would be much appreciated thanks ahead of time.
#30
I think life will be easier if you pull the axle shafts out. then you will have enough space to push/slide the transfer case to the side. the cleanest way is to remove the fuse-DME bracket and get the trans mount bracket out. if i remember correctly, the hex nut is size 50mm (http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...72.m2749.l2658) i fought with this nut outside and couldnt move it. maybe while TC is still attached, you'll have more luck loosing it. use torch carefully if needed to help it move.
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For the tie rod, I was able to just thread the nut on backwards just to the top of the joint threads and wack it with a BFH. It came right out with two strikes. No damage to threads.
Last edited by HasAnMTBProblem; 03-03-2019 at 04:04 PM.
#34
Don't tell anybody, but I used a pipe wrench on the driveshaft nut and big channel lock pliers on the transfer case. When I pulled on the pipe wrench the channel lock wedged in place on the sub-frame. It sounds rudimentary, but worked. Replace the nut and your good to go.
#35
How'd you get the transfer case to come clear of the transmission? I got mine about 90% of the way out and then the transfer case ran into the lower control arm. I really want to avoid pulling the transmission to get the dang transfer case out. I'm just replacing the transfer case in my '12 CM as it's humming and leaking.
#36
Well moved past the steering column and now onto pulling transfer case and transmission. I removed Circlip after breaking 2 pairs of snap ring pliers so I used a pair of needle nose and a screw driver. But now I cannot get the slined shaft out. Then onto the tranny, How/what am I suppose to do to get the tranny out? I know I need to disconnect the shift linkage but I can't get it. Any tips? Also how do i remove the tranny mount or whats the best/easiest method for removing it? Any help would be much appreciated thanks ahead of time.
#37
Started this job this week and now I'm stuck at pulling the sub frame due to the power steering not coming apart from the steering column. I've loosened the nut but it will not come out. Do you guys have any tips or tricks on how to accomplish this? Any help would be much appreciated.
After you have the bolt out, all you have to do is swing the knuckle away from the steering box input shaft. Don't try to pull it apart. There is a lip that prevents the knuckle from separating in the event the bolt comes loose for some reason.
Last edited by HasAnMTBProblem; 03-03-2019 at 04:05 PM.
#38
Hmmm, interesting. I completely missed that warning when I did mine. The threads had no thread locking residue on them. I reassembled with original nut and no thread lock. Someone please let me know if this is a real danger, or if it's one of those liability avoidance steps that manufacturers invoke.
#39
One thing I will say is that there is the slightest bit of clutch rattle here an there, but it's barely noticeable.
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Urbanr60 (05-04-2020)
#42
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Brandon Pratt (04-12-2021)
#45
ok, thanks. Based on how hard it was to get off, and how it got tighter with each turn on reassembly, it seemed like using red Loctite wouldn't be a great idea if you ever wanted to get it back off again
#47
I just replaced mine in my garage at home...it was a PITA but I got it done. The clutch actually still had some meat left on it, however the throwout bearing seized and the clutch fork bent so it all got replaced while it was apart. All this happened at 130k, I bet the clutch had another 50k left in it. Went with the Valeo clutch kit for around $200, didn't replace the flywheel. The OE clutch in it I saw was a Valeo as well and it looked exactly the same as what I put in it.
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Urbanr60 (05-04-2020)
#49
#50
Do you have any specific questions: Job is same as regular R56 except for:
Remove heat shields
Remove driveshaft at transfer case end (giant nut with reverse threads)
Remove front axles
Remove transfer case circlip for right axle stub and pull out of transfer case
Unbolt and remove transfer case
Remove heat shields
Remove driveshaft at transfer case end (giant nut with reverse threads)
Remove front axles
Remove transfer case circlip for right axle stub and pull out of transfer case
Unbolt and remove transfer case