Took the pipe from the intercooler to the intake off while changing the alternator, and it had a lot of oil in it. Car is new to me so I doubt its been checked there before. Looking at catch can options, but has anyone drilled a weep hole in the intercooler or the pipe so it drains off, and where should it be drilled?

 

Please tell me you are not serious about drilling a hole into your intercooler or any of the piping, if you are please for the love of god just sell it and by a Civic or Corolla. You do realize you are going to cause a boost leak if you drill a hole, right?

 

The F150 Ecoboost guys swear by it. They have been doing it a long time with good results for them. They drill a 1/16 hole and it doesn't cause any noticeable boost leak or cause any issues from already measured air leaking out. Volvo 850's come factory with a weep hole. Its not out of left field. You might want to rethink your response into something constructive.

 

ok, so when I had my n14, there was the slightest tear in my intercooler boot, which caused a maf code and other boost codes. So how’s that for constructive criticism, go ahead drill a hole, cause a boost leak, and then come back her crying about it.

 

Doing research, the maf is before the turbo and intercooler, so its a suck through, so metered air would be missed, so prob a no go then. If the maf was after it, then no worries.

 

So I’m going blow your mind, it was the intercooler boot on cold side or passenger side that had the tear, and was cause maf and boost codes. So like I said go ahead, we will wait for you to come back trying to figure out why you have codes. Good luck 😂

 

Yea, no **** sherlock. We already established its a suck through maf so the air is already counted.
Thanks for all the help with this question
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...12#13627597085

 

I know both the n14 and n18 very well, worked on them for the past 5 years, so no need for a diagram. They are the reason why I have a R53 now. With that said, Peace I’m out.

 

I'm not going to get in between whatever the discussion is going on but I am going to say, you may want to look into what is the source of the oil from (I actually have the exact same thing) I also have a M7 Catch Can off the PCV valve. From my last oil change at MINI dealer, they say its coming from the turbo seals. I am going to get an independent 2nd check to see then I will have to decide how bad it is before looking to get a new turbo. My independent shop quoted me over email at $2600, I have heard Mini dealers as high as $4000+.

 

That will be the next step, clean it out, put in a catch can, and see how much and how fast. Looks like there are rebuilt cartridges out there for around $300. If its the turbo, I would get just the cartridge and swap it myself. Its right up top, shouldn't be too bad. (example, but would have to research the vendor & check the part # first- http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/bowako3chca5.html ) Might be easier that way if I can just leave the exhaust housing bolted up and swap the center section (not sure if you can tho, that will be the next question if it is the turbo)

 

I like to work on the car but didn't even know you could swap just the center cartridge. Has anyone here done that before on the N18 turbo? I agree its right up there, Im still debating putting it into service position to change the Turbo out myself, really comes down to price and time. #2012R60 if you go that way please keep us up to date on the process.

 

Looks like it wouldn't be bad at all to swap just the cartridge. Here is the pic of the turbo on my R60(really my R61 but same difference), it didnt come with heat shields so this is what it looks like under them. The coolant and oil lines are in front so not too bad to get too, and the clamp on the hot side is right there too, so easy to unbolt. I don't see a need for Service Mode, just drain the coolant, undo the intake pipes in and out of it, and it should slide out to the right after undoing the oil and coolant lines, undo the wastegate actuator (dont see it here, guess its on the bottom), then undo the clamp on the exhaust side and slide it out. Looks like the snail cover botls on so unbolt and transfer to the new cartridge and reverse to install. That seems like it, but I haven't done it before on a Mini, but I dont see any snags.

turbo

 

This guy pulled his cartridge and rebuilt it himself, so its been done - https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...o-rebuild.html
Myself, I wouldn't rebuild mine, might send it out for a rebuild, or order a rebuilt so it can be balanced, but thats just me. Good tip from that thread is to order new oil lines for the turbo if you are replacing it.

Still not saying thats my issue yet, but if you are looking for options, replacing just the cartridge is doable.

 

Before you start rebuilding your turbo, let's find and fix the cause first.
Blown seals are a symptom increased pressure from a failed PCV circuit.
The PCV is built into the valve cover. It is possible to replace a failed diaphram, but you risk breaking the PCV housing and may need a new cover.
I went through this on an R60S I had briefly. It was smoking heavily from the exhaust burning oil, which has migrated past the blown turbo seals. The cause was a failed PCV and the corresponding pressure increase.

I would skip the catch can. Some amount of oil is normal and will not harm anything. People feel good about emptying catch can to "keep their engine clean". With a healthy PCV system, it's not necessary.

First, check the pipe that runs between the valve cover and turbo outlet and see if it has a lot of oil in it and whether you see oil on the turbo blades. Light oil coating is OK, dropping/flowing is not. You will likely have a bit.
Are you seeing blue smoke from the exhaust? If yes, see if you can borrow a scope, then remove the top oxygen sensor and using the borescope take a peak at the exhaust side of the turbo and look for any wetness there. If it's wet there, the turbo seals may be gone and you should replace turbo or cartridge. If the oil is only on the intake side, you may have caught this in time and just fix the PCV system and/or replace valve cover, clean out intercooler and monitor oil consumption and check those pipes again in a little while.

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

And I would replace the missing heat shield to extend the life of the valve cover gasket.
FYI, the little heat shield on the oil supply line was added in later model years as the seal on that pipe deteriorated from the exhaust side heat and caused a leak. While you are doing all this work, the other common leak spots to investigate are the oil filter housing gasket and the turbo oil return pipe. Both require turbo out, so you might as well do them if you get to the point of removing the turbo.

 

TY
air filter to compressor, looks clean, compressor wheel is very clean. I did not notice any real shaft play either. There looked to be a little oil in the compressor outlet and residue. I looked at in the intercooler to throttle body and there was residue, when I took it off the first time the other day a lot of oil came out, enough to soak the engine mount bolt. Pics attached. I haven't noticed anything on the exhaust side, exhaust seems nice and clean, no black smoke at least. Seems if the air filter to turbo side is clean, then it has to be coming from the turbo?

Compressor inlet

Compressor outlet

engine mount

 

Just replaced my Valve cover this weekend, the PCV was a mess (92k miles) cleaned everything up, I do have an M7 catch can on it as well. We will see about the turbo next. The valve cover definitely is much easer if you remove the silver fuel line on the driver back corner. Just comes right off once that is out of the way.

 

It sounds you caught the PCV failure in time.
i would leave the turbo alone and just run it and monitor.