Drivetrain Supercharger fluid
#6
#7
SC Oil Amount???
Does anyone know how much SC oil goes on the pulley side and the waterpump side, respectively ???
I have my SC out for inspection at 49,500 miles and much to my dismay, I only got about half an ounce out of the pump side (there was alot of dirt and grease covering the water pump, which I am assuming may have come from the SC.
I have not yet opened the pulley side yet, but I would like to get an idea of how much oil for each side since the unit is now out of the car and I do not have a spec.
Thanks in advance....
I have my SC out for inspection at 49,500 miles and much to my dismay, I only got about half an ounce out of the pump side (there was alot of dirt and grease covering the water pump, which I am assuming may have come from the SC.
I have not yet opened the pulley side yet, but I would like to get an idea of how much oil for each side since the unit is now out of the car and I do not have a spec.
Thanks in advance....
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#9
Rich
#11
I have not done mine yet, maybe next month? I found the fluid info on NAM several months ago. I'm going to try to suck out the old oil from both sides of the SC with a fluid extractor( powered by shop air) without taking the unit off I'm sure some things will have to removed to get access to the fill plugs,will find out what when I get there? Wish me good luck
Happy Motoring, Jeff
Happy Motoring, Jeff
#12
#13
+1 however Ive also heard 4.5oz for the pulley side... Theres a fill plug just like the Transmission that will let you know when theres enough fluid in there...
#14
So is it really servicable? That article said there's nothing we can do.
#15
Two answer for one question that is a little ambiguous.
1. It is entirely possible to pull the SC off the car, replace and top off the lubricants on both sides and then reinstall. If it suites your fancy you can also replace the gaskets in the process of doing so.
2. It used to be that if the SC gears ate themselves that your only option was a new SC. However there is now at least on company out there capable of repairing the gear side if it is destroyed. It's possible that the article was written before that, which would be why the SC was called unserviceable.
1. It is entirely possible to pull the SC off the car, replace and top off the lubricants on both sides and then reinstall. If it suites your fancy you can also replace the gaskets in the process of doing so.
2. It used to be that if the SC gears ate themselves that your only option was a new SC. However there is now at least on company out there capable of repairing the gear side if it is destroyed. It's possible that the article was written before that, which would be why the SC was called unserviceable.
#16
#17
MiniKJ, Yes I saw that article in MC2. It may take me a few hours to gain access to the fill plugs on the supercharger. A little time now may save me the cost of repairs or replacement later. Just something I fell like doing and worth the time invested. I will let everyone know how it goes.
Happy Motoring, Jeff
Happy Motoring, Jeff
#18
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Old Twon, Florida (on Suwannee River)
Posts: 16
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Supercharger Oil
If anybody is still reading this thread....
Supercharger oil is a very thin full synthetic motor oil. When we
rebuild supercharger we usually use a 5W or at worst a 10W
full synthetic oil. We recommend that the oil is changed after a 500
mile break-in period and every 20K - 30K miles. We also install magnetic
oil fill plugs so they need to be cleaned before install.
Also, when changing the oil you will need to run the motor for about
5 minutes before removing the oil (this makes sure any dirt/metal particles
are suspended in the oil). You will also need a syringe with a 6" - 8" hose
to suck the oil out of the supercharger. Inspect the oil. We also recommend
that you flush the supercharger at least once because you can not get all the
oil out of the supercharger. Run the engine another 5 minutes and pull the
oil out again. Inspect the oil by pouring some onto a nice white sheet of
paper and inspect for dirt or metal particles(if there is excessive amounts
of metal particles something is most likely going wrong). Repeat the flush
if needed and until the oil is clean. Replace the oil for the last time filling
until the oil is at the level of the fill hole.
You can buy the GM supercharger oil but if you do flush the supercharger
the cost of the oil gets excessive. One or two qts. is usually plenty to
flush a couple of times and a refill.
We do offer a kit for those who cannot or don not want to find the
syringe/hose combo. Kit comes with oil,flush oil,syringe w/hose. We sell
it for basically what it costs us - for our customers.
NOTE: NEVER put gear lube into the supercharger. The oil is to thick which
creates a great deal of heat..... usually causing seal failure. NEVER!
We have had supercharger come in that the customer put gear lube into
it to quite the bearing noise. The supercharger got so hot the paint blistered
off the supercharger and melted the seals!
Supercharger oil is a very thin full synthetic motor oil. When we
rebuild supercharger we usually use a 5W or at worst a 10W
full synthetic oil. We recommend that the oil is changed after a 500
mile break-in period and every 20K - 30K miles. We also install magnetic
oil fill plugs so they need to be cleaned before install.
Also, when changing the oil you will need to run the motor for about
5 minutes before removing the oil (this makes sure any dirt/metal particles
are suspended in the oil). You will also need a syringe with a 6" - 8" hose
to suck the oil out of the supercharger. Inspect the oil. We also recommend
that you flush the supercharger at least once because you can not get all the
oil out of the supercharger. Run the engine another 5 minutes and pull the
oil out again. Inspect the oil by pouring some onto a nice white sheet of
paper and inspect for dirt or metal particles(if there is excessive amounts
of metal particles something is most likely going wrong). Repeat the flush
if needed and until the oil is clean. Replace the oil for the last time filling
until the oil is at the level of the fill hole.
You can buy the GM supercharger oil but if you do flush the supercharger
the cost of the oil gets excessive. One or two qts. is usually plenty to
flush a couple of times and a refill.
We do offer a kit for those who cannot or don not want to find the
syringe/hose combo. Kit comes with oil,flush oil,syringe w/hose. We sell
it for basically what it costs us - for our customers.
NOTE: NEVER put gear lube into the supercharger. The oil is to thick which
creates a great deal of heat..... usually causing seal failure. NEVER!
We have had supercharger come in that the customer put gear lube into
it to quite the bearing noise. The supercharger got so hot the paint blistered
off the supercharger and melted the seals!
Last edited by SuperchargerTech; 05-29-2009 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Addition
#19
If anybody is still reading this thread....
Supercharger oil is a very thin full synthetic motor oil. When we
rebuild supercharger we usually use a 5W or at worst a 10W
full synthetic oil. We recommend that the oil is changed after a 500
mile break-in period and every 20K - 30K miles. We also install magnetic
oil fill plugs so they need to be cleaned before install.
Also, when changing the oil you will need to run the motor for about
5 minutes before removing the oil (this makes sure any dirt/metal particles
are suspended in the oil). You will also need a syringe with a 6" - 8" hose
to suck the oil out of the supercharger. Inspect the oil. We also recommend
that you flush the supercharger at least once because you can not get all the
oil out of the supercharger. Run the engine another 5 minutes and pull the
oil out again. Inspect the oil by pouring some onto a nice white sheet of
paper and inspect for dirt or metal particles(if there is excessive amounts
of ...
Supercharger oil is a very thin full synthetic motor oil. When we
rebuild supercharger we usually use a 5W or at worst a 10W
full synthetic oil. We recommend that the oil is changed after a 500
mile break-in period and every 20K - 30K miles. We also install magnetic
oil fill plugs so they need to be cleaned before install.
Also, when changing the oil you will need to run the motor for about
5 minutes before removing the oil (this makes sure any dirt/metal particles
are suspended in the oil). You will also need a syringe with a 6" - 8" hose
to suck the oil out of the supercharger. Inspect the oil. We also recommend
that you flush the supercharger at least once because you can not get all the
oil out of the supercharger. Run the engine another 5 minutes and pull the
oil out again. Inspect the oil by pouring some onto a nice white sheet of
paper and inspect for dirt or metal particles(if there is excessive amounts
of ...
#22
To be clear, it is the water pump drive side that leaks fluid, destroys the gear and overheats the motor. I do not think this can be serviced in the car. I have not tried because I always remove the charger to inspect the gear and re-seal the case. This is worth while and only adds a few for minutes to the job. This is not very difficult to do and is the same work required for replacement, but you save the $1500 parts fee. The few that I have serviced were empty on the pump side and only slightly low on the pulley side. Don't fool yourself by only doing the pulley side.
I have seen them low between 75k and 115k. Each time there has been enough warning to take care of it before damage occured. One friend let it go after hearing the rattle, people in parking lots were bringing up. It took between 10 to 15k before it overheated and killed the gears.
I have seen them low between 75k and 115k. Each time there has been enough warning to take care of it before damage occured. One friend let it go after hearing the rattle, people in parking lots were bringing up. It took between 10 to 15k before it overheated and killed the gears.
#24
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Old Twon, Florida (on Suwannee River)
Posts: 16
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Oil
Inspecting the oil when doing the change or just a level
check can give you a lot of information. If excess dirt or
metal particles are present in the oil then something is
going wrong. At that point there is repairs in the near future
(the sooner the cheaper - usually).
Noise is the other determining factor. If the unit is making
noise then the same situation applies (sooner the cheaper).
Also, for the other poster.
The oil kits we have contain two 12oz. bottles of oil, syringe
with a 6" - 8" hose (for sucking out the oil), magnetic oil fill
plug (only works in superchargers we have rebuilt/ "rethreaded
holes"), instructions. Kit is $25.00
We add the second bottle for the flushing process. Supercharger
might need to be flushed more than once. Both bottles have the
same oil.
As far as the instructions they are basically what wrote in the
prior posting. But if anyone really needs them I can E-mail them a copy.
Send me your E-mail at supercharger@excite.com and I will E-mail
back the instructions.
Charles
Supercharger Technologies
supercharger@excite.com
352-542-0147 Fax:352-542-9468
check can give you a lot of information. If excess dirt or
metal particles are present in the oil then something is
going wrong. At that point there is repairs in the near future
(the sooner the cheaper - usually).
Noise is the other determining factor. If the unit is making
noise then the same situation applies (sooner the cheaper).
Also, for the other poster.
The oil kits we have contain two 12oz. bottles of oil, syringe
with a 6" - 8" hose (for sucking out the oil), magnetic oil fill
plug (only works in superchargers we have rebuilt/ "rethreaded
holes"), instructions. Kit is $25.00
We add the second bottle for the flushing process. Supercharger
might need to be flushed more than once. Both bottles have the
same oil.
As far as the instructions they are basically what wrote in the
prior posting. But if anyone really needs them I can E-mail them a copy.
Send me your E-mail at supercharger@excite.com and I will E-mail
back the instructions.
Charles
Supercharger Technologies
supercharger@excite.com
352-542-0147 Fax:352-542-9468
#25
Just a question...we one were to buy the M45 of the shelf would it already be oiled? or is it worth it to reoil it...Im considering to get a second one just in case the one in my car is gone...
Note: my sc is already on 67k and 15k of those with a 17% pulley...
now its max boost is 14.8psi at 6.5k rpm (amb. temp was 33 deg C thou)
Note: my sc is already on 67k and 15k of those with a 17% pulley...
now its max boost is 14.8psi at 6.5k rpm (amb. temp was 33 deg C thou)