I'm looking for a used countryman. My short list is:
- manual transmission
- AWD
- S version
- DDC (dynamic damper control)
- lots of other stuff that I want, but lower priority...

I'm trying to sort out, can you have both "sport suspension" and DDC and if so, does the least firm mode with sport suspension match the least firm mode without sport suspension? So do all the suspension modes move up equally?

Does F60 start in 2016 or 2017? I see this forum lists 2016+. Is that just a 2017 model released in 2016?

thx

 

I just bought one as well and it's pretty confusing at first. A VIN decoder like mdecoder helped a lot, but some feature codes show up even when they are nullified by another, so be careful.

Dynamic dampers can be physically confirmed if you look at the strut towers under the hood. Dynamic dampers will have wires coming out the top.

- F60 starts with 2017 model year.
- Manual transmission isn't available after 2019.
- The horsepower is increased starting with 2020 JCW model, but no manual transmission available.
- Dynamic dampers don't get as stiff as the sport suspension. There's no such thing as sport dynamic dampers unfortunately.

 

oh wow... I didnt notice this. How much difference? mine is 2019 and a stock CMS has 189 HP.

edited:
if you mean the 2019 CM JCW had 225 HP and then the 2020 CM JCW had 300HP, then its settled.

 

Yes, sorry, just the JCW.
And the USA, I'm not sure about other countries.

 

btw,
But, what would I be giving up mechanically if I go to an earlier version, like a 2015/2016? I like options, but my short list is pretty short and I'm finding it very difficult to find 2017+ S with a manual trans, AWD and DDC.

 

If you want an R60 you should talk to @MarioKart He has the car you want.

 

2017+ have the newer BMW engines. For me, it was that and I liked the newer interior styling better. Somebody else will have to chime in with more mechanical details.

 

BMW engines = reliable. Weird French/German partnership N14/N18 engines = not so much. Personal experience.

 

Don't be blinded by the B48 being the same engine as the M135.
As far as the mechanical differences. I'm going to list my considerations, as I went through this exact dilemma over the last 12 months and ended up choosing a 2016 JCW countryman R60
The best way for me to describe the ride difference is, the R60 is a sport hatch that handles incredibly well, while the F60 is a small SUV with a great engine for Macan like acceleration. You need to drive both for yourself.
I personally don't like all the newer tech. Give me analogue gauges any day.
I also care about handling and feel, more than straight line 0-60.
We all have different goals.

In my example, I do consider upgrade parts and stage 2 tune for approximately $3,000 on the 2016.
In the long run, I found the F60 to be just a bit bigger in every aspect. Add that to the auto only transmission option, 500 pound weight increase and $20k more and it was a no go for me.

R60 JCW F60 JCW
Cost: $23,000 $48,000
Upgrade $ 3,000 $0
H.P 250 (STG2 upgrade) 306hp. Debatable numbers, WHP versus crank.
Car Weight 3,263 Lbs. 3,789
HP/ Weight .077 .081
Length 162 in. 170 in.
Height 60.5 61.3 in.
Width 70.4 71.7 in.
Wheel base 102 105

If you end up getting the F60, I challenge you to a drag August 7th 2021 NE Dragway.
Then we'll know for sure, which engine is better.

 

I've owned both now. R60 -> F60. The R60 had sports suspension. The F60 has DDC. In my opinion, the F60 handles better and doesn't have nearly as brittle a ride as the R60. Both on non run-flat tires. I'm not "blinded" by the B48 being the same engine as the M135. Not even sure what you mean by that. It's not even in the same state of tune on the non-JCW F60, even though it shares the same mechanicals. BMW has deliberately dumbed it down to ~180 HP which is probably one of the reasons it's more reliable than the R60's engine. My R60 engine turned to mush, and that despite regular oil changes and preventative maintenance. JCW versions of cars are different, of course, but.... basic engine is still the same. I know it's become fashionable to tell people to stay away from the N18 engine (and run-flats LOL) but there's a reason for that. You sound like you may have been one of the lucky few with a good one and you've improved your luck by maintaining your vehicle. My engine is the B46 (PZEV) version of the B4x engine btw.

 

Any opinions how to price a car like this? almost new, but it is used... Seems like they are pricing like new. What do you think is a reasonable offer and how do you arrive at or justify that number? My least favorite part of cars is buying them.

https://www.miniofmarin.com/details-...6l3l96065.html

 

Offer several thousand less. You just have to REALLY be willing to walk away. Don't fall in love with it when you are shopping...it's just a car, until you buy it. Then fall in love with it. In the meantime, negotiate.

 

I agree! I’d still like to put a reasonable value on it. I can’t find any numbers over 30k. i just don’t want to make an outrageous offer that doesn’t make sense. Maybe 34k is a good number, idk 🤷‍♂️ . I’d just like to feel more confident

 

This may not help, but, I bought my first Mini, a 2019 Countryman S FWD in mid-level trim with 3000+ miles (it was used as a service loaner) for 30,000, list was mid-upper 30's. I walked away once on that purchase. Made the deal a week later. I put 10000 miles on it, sold it to Carvana for 27,164, and bought a 2019 JCW top level trim, with just under 1,300 miles for 34,000 (original list was nearly 50,000) from the same Dealership. I walked away twice on the JCW. Couldn't be happier...but, you have to be willing to lose the deal!

 

I would definitely take that sort of "discount". That's like a 1/3 off list. Yours is a similar situation to what I'm looking at, low miles and top trim. I'm thinking if I go for something like this car, I would try to get the real window sticker to see what it cost with all of the packages. I don't see that in the VIN decoder. Some places like carvana offer the window sticker which is really nice.

 

Yeah, I found the original sticker...it was bought in Kansas City, kept for 1.5 years, then traded in for the BIG LEXUS. The original owners really lost a lot of money on this car, but, seems like they have money to spend! First oil change at one year with only a little over 900 miles on it. They scraped the front lip and curb-rashed a wheel, but, the Deatership repaired both as part of the deal and my being willing to walk away. I wonder if the COVID traffic decrease helped me strike this deal. Probably a lot fewer people kicking tires last July. Anyway, at 34K, it was a steal. Just turned 10,000 miles on it this week. According to Kelley Blue Book, it may still be worth nearly what I paid for it.

 

fwiw, I found the window sticker, and you can see why they chose the 37K price. I'm not saying that it's "right", but it's 20% off the sticker price of about 46K. Apparently, 20% is the normal depreciation for a one year old car, which this is now.

 

Yep, that's an list of expensive extras packed in this car! Best of wishes in whatever you decide!