R56 DD/HS Build Thread
#1
DD/HS Build Thread
2008 Mini Cooper Base - Lightning Blue/White Roof
Current Mileage: 91,250
Wasn't sure where to put a build thread/journal, so thought I'd throw it in here. Was considering putting it in the Solo section but that's not really the point of this thread. NAM should make a separate section for build threads! And sorry if it already has one, didn't see one - mods please move accordingly.
Recently picked up a very clean stock base Cooper w/ about 86,000 miles on it. I flew out to NJ yesterday to pick it up and drive it back - I put about a thousand miles on it and averaged 40mpg during the process, and that was carrying a set of wheels, going through some pretty mountainous areas, good headwind, etc. The original owner was great, really accommodating and threw in a ton of extras.
I plan for this car to be a DD/HS car. I say DD, but I don't actually drive to work (Pros of living 0.5 miles away) so this will be more for like grocery runs and whatever else. My "main" car is a 2006 Mitsubishi IX MR with about 23,000 miles on it. Really though for that car, I'm more concerned about preserving it than anything else. Ironically, the Mini is for driving through the snow, salt, rain, whatever else bad conditions. I can more or less drive the car without caring as much, worrying over every small thing, etc. Still can't get over how small the car is, definitely a joy to park. I had made some consideration to using regular or mid grade gas, but decided to stick with 93 - I had always planned to use 93 for when I auto-x the car, and I thought for daily stuff I could "get by" with regular/mid. However, given that the car has never ever had anything lower than premium, plus how long tanks last, I decided to go with 93. I don't want to risk anything, and don't want to be stuck with half a tank of 89 when I need to go autocrossing the next day. Anyway, it doesnt really hurt me, I use 93 in the evo anyway.
As far as running in HS/RTF goes, I don't know how much the sunroof will hurt, but I can already tell helmet clearance may be an issue. I just barely fit as long as I move away the side sun visor - which I may just unscrew entirely. Otherwise, I think I've got a good idea what to do based on what's allowed and what most other people are running. I don't know if I'll be nationally competitive in any car, but this car is probably my best shot for it.
Current:
- 6 speed manual
- Sport Package
- Sunroof
- HIDs
- Front foglights
- M7 strut tower defenders
- SS brake lines
- 15" Spooler (15x5.5)+ Nokian Hakkapeliitta 185/65-15 winter tires
- 16" Bridge (16x6.5) Spoke + Z1 Star specs 205/50-16 summer tires
- Extra sets of brake pads (Carbotech fronts for track and Hawk HPS)
- OEM all weather floor mats
- K&N Air Filter
- Free Camber Mod
4/7/2013 - First auto-x event (1)
4/9/2013 - Weather vane, STDs, and Lexol
4/10/2013 - Pre-adjusted Alignment
4/11/2013 - Undercar Pics
4/12/2013 - Free Camber Mod
4/18/2013 - General Fluids
4/21/2013 - Panel Air Filter Install
5/13/2013 - In Cabin Air Filter Install
5/27/2013 - Oil and Trans Fluid Change
6/15/2013 - Strut Tower Tops
Pics:
Current Mileage: 91,250
Wasn't sure where to put a build thread/journal, so thought I'd throw it in here. Was considering putting it in the Solo section but that's not really the point of this thread. NAM should make a separate section for build threads! And sorry if it already has one, didn't see one - mods please move accordingly.
Recently picked up a very clean stock base Cooper w/ about 86,000 miles on it. I flew out to NJ yesterday to pick it up and drive it back - I put about a thousand miles on it and averaged 40mpg during the process, and that was carrying a set of wheels, going through some pretty mountainous areas, good headwind, etc. The original owner was great, really accommodating and threw in a ton of extras.
I plan for this car to be a DD/HS car. I say DD, but I don't actually drive to work (Pros of living 0.5 miles away) so this will be more for like grocery runs and whatever else. My "main" car is a 2006 Mitsubishi IX MR with about 23,000 miles on it. Really though for that car, I'm more concerned about preserving it than anything else. Ironically, the Mini is for driving through the snow, salt, rain, whatever else bad conditions. I can more or less drive the car without caring as much, worrying over every small thing, etc. Still can't get over how small the car is, definitely a joy to park. I had made some consideration to using regular or mid grade gas, but decided to stick with 93 - I had always planned to use 93 for when I auto-x the car, and I thought for daily stuff I could "get by" with regular/mid. However, given that the car has never ever had anything lower than premium, plus how long tanks last, I decided to go with 93. I don't want to risk anything, and don't want to be stuck with half a tank of 89 when I need to go autocrossing the next day. Anyway, it doesnt really hurt me, I use 93 in the evo anyway.
As far as running in HS/RTF goes, I don't know how much the sunroof will hurt, but I can already tell helmet clearance may be an issue. I just barely fit as long as I move away the side sun visor - which I may just unscrew entirely. Otherwise, I think I've got a good idea what to do based on what's allowed and what most other people are running. I don't know if I'll be nationally competitive in any car, but this car is probably my best shot for it.
Current:
- 6 speed manual
- Sport Package
- Sunroof
- HIDs
- Front foglights
- M7 strut tower defenders
- SS brake lines
- 15" Spooler (15x5.5)+ Nokian Hakkapeliitta 185/65-15 winter tires
- 16" Bridge (16x6.5) Spoke + Z1 Star specs 205/50-16 summer tires
- Extra sets of brake pads (Carbotech fronts for track and Hawk HPS)
- OEM all weather floor mats
- K&N Air Filter
- Free Camber Mod
4/7/2013 - First auto-x event (1)
4/9/2013 - Weather vane, STDs, and Lexol
4/10/2013 - Pre-adjusted Alignment
4/11/2013 - Undercar Pics
4/12/2013 - Free Camber Mod
4/18/2013 - General Fluids
4/21/2013 - Panel Air Filter Install
5/13/2013 - In Cabin Air Filter Install
5/27/2013 - Oil and Trans Fluid Change
6/15/2013 - Strut Tower Tops
Pics:
Last edited by kyoo; 10-01-2013 at 04:43 PM.
#4
Any thoughts on cold start slight idle wobbling?
#7
The lever on the left-front corner of the seat will raise it up or lower it down. I have headroom problems in many cars, but with the seat all the way down in my 2012 (no sunroof) I have roughly a ton of room. Hopefully your helmet clearance issue can be solved by that.
Some steam in the engine is probably normal. Oil accumulates water, because water is one of the products of burning gasoline. When water gets warm, it turns to steam. That's one of the reasons we really want to get the engine all the way up to operating temp--though it's not quite as critical a process as for, say, my wife's aircooled beast.
Lots and lots of steam would probably mean that there is extra water making its way into the combustion chambers, or into the oil passages. If your car has a "mist" system, it could be spraying a water/methanol mixture into the intake to help bring air temps down and try to clean oil residue off the valves. (Note: Those would generally only be an issue with the S models, looks like yours is not an S.) Or it could be that coolant is making its way in--and that would be bad news.
Does the steam smell sweet? If so, it is coolant and you need to find where it's coming from. In other cars, I'd say a head gasket, but there are some that have oil coolers that are cooled by the car's coolant. (Sorry for the wording there.) Seals in that can fail, mixing your oil and coolant. Not sure if our cars have that or not.
Any scum or cheese in your radiator overflow tank, or anywhere else in the cooling system that you can find?
I have monitored my ScanGauge while in cruise control, and the load measurement can vary pretty significantly while the speed stays fairly constant. Changes in the slope of the road (uphill or downhill) that I never really noticed will make the cruise control react. So will wind gusts, and buffeting from passing traffic.
So your problems: Could be bad, could be nothing. Try to monitor them and see what happens, and get more information.
Some steam in the engine is probably normal. Oil accumulates water, because water is one of the products of burning gasoline. When water gets warm, it turns to steam. That's one of the reasons we really want to get the engine all the way up to operating temp--though it's not quite as critical a process as for, say, my wife's aircooled beast.
Lots and lots of steam would probably mean that there is extra water making its way into the combustion chambers, or into the oil passages. If your car has a "mist" system, it could be spraying a water/methanol mixture into the intake to help bring air temps down and try to clean oil residue off the valves. (Note: Those would generally only be an issue with the S models, looks like yours is not an S.) Or it could be that coolant is making its way in--and that would be bad news.
Does the steam smell sweet? If so, it is coolant and you need to find where it's coming from. In other cars, I'd say a head gasket, but there are some that have oil coolers that are cooled by the car's coolant. (Sorry for the wording there.) Seals in that can fail, mixing your oil and coolant. Not sure if our cars have that or not.
Any scum or cheese in your radiator overflow tank, or anywhere else in the cooling system that you can find?
I have monitored my ScanGauge while in cruise control, and the load measurement can vary pretty significantly while the speed stays fairly constant. Changes in the slope of the road (uphill or downhill) that I never really noticed will make the cruise control react. So will wind gusts, and buffeting from passing traffic.
So your problems: Could be bad, could be nothing. Try to monitor them and see what happens, and get more information.
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#8
The lever on the left-front corner of the seat will raise it up or lower it down. I have headroom problems in many cars, but with the seat all the way down in my 2012 (no sunroof) I have roughly a ton of room. Hopefully your helmet clearance issue can be solved by that.
Some steam in the engine is probably normal. Oil accumulates water, because water is one of the products of burning gasoline. When water gets warm, it turns to steam. That's one of the reasons we really want to get the engine all the way up to operating temp--though it's not quite as critical a process as for, say, my wife's aircooled beast.
Lots and lots of steam would probably mean that there is extra water making its way into the combustion chambers, or into the oil passages. If your car has a "mist" system, it could be spraying a water/methanol mixture into the intake to help bring air temps down and try to clean oil residue off the valves. (Note: Those would generally only be an issue with the S models, looks like yours is not an S.) Or it could be that coolant is making its way in--and that would be bad news.
Does the steam smell sweet? If so, it is coolant and you need to find where it's coming from. In other cars, I'd say a head gasket, but there are some that have oil coolers that are cooled by the car's coolant. (Sorry for the wording there.) Seals in that can fail, mixing your oil and coolant. Not sure if our cars have that or not.
Any scum or cheese in your radiator overflow tank, or anywhere else in the cooling system that you can find?
I have monitored my ScanGauge while in cruise control, and the load measurement can vary pretty significantly while the speed stays fairly constant. Changes in the slope of the road (uphill or downhill) that I never really noticed will make the cruise control react. So will wind gusts, and buffeting from passing traffic.
So your problems: Could be bad, could be nothing. Try to monitor them and see what happens, and get more information.
Some steam in the engine is probably normal. Oil accumulates water, because water is one of the products of burning gasoline. When water gets warm, it turns to steam. That's one of the reasons we really want to get the engine all the way up to operating temp--though it's not quite as critical a process as for, say, my wife's aircooled beast.
Lots and lots of steam would probably mean that there is extra water making its way into the combustion chambers, or into the oil passages. If your car has a "mist" system, it could be spraying a water/methanol mixture into the intake to help bring air temps down and try to clean oil residue off the valves. (Note: Those would generally only be an issue with the S models, looks like yours is not an S.) Or it could be that coolant is making its way in--and that would be bad news.
Does the steam smell sweet? If so, it is coolant and you need to find where it's coming from. In other cars, I'd say a head gasket, but there are some that have oil coolers that are cooled by the car's coolant. (Sorry for the wording there.) Seals in that can fail, mixing your oil and coolant. Not sure if our cars have that or not.
Any scum or cheese in your radiator overflow tank, or anywhere else in the cooling system that you can find?
I have monitored my ScanGauge while in cruise control, and the load measurement can vary pretty significantly while the speed stays fairly constant. Changes in the slope of the road (uphill or downhill) that I never really noticed will make the cruise control react. So will wind gusts, and buffeting from passing traffic.
So your problems: Could be bad, could be nothing. Try to monitor them and see what happens, and get more information.
As far as the steam goes, I'm not sure what it is - I tried to avoid inhaling it when I took a look. I was thinking it could be some form of coolant etc., but I didnt catch any residue from what I could see in the oil. Still possible, just haven't seen it yet. Car has never had it's water pump done, so may not be a bad idea.
Thanks for the input on the cruise control. It probably is just wind.
Any thought in terms of slight idle fluctuation on cold start?
I'll definitely keep monitoring everything and probably will want to take it to the dealer to get their opinion.
#10
#11
#13
Auto-X - 1 4/7/2013
First auto-x event ever in the Mini today - very different from autocrossing the evo, and I think in a good way.
Overall I didn't feel like I was fighting with the car as much, and really the car seemed to push less than my evo - either due to weight or due to being at slower speeds, but in general a very positive experience. Car handled very well, not much push at all and I had a much better feel for where the limit was.
Had a strange mixup with how this region does stock classes - there's no RT class like for scca solos, but instead they put a "T" in front of your class - i.e., "THS" and then you compete with all the other "T" classes, not just those that would originally have been in your class. By the time I requested to move back to just "HS" it was too late - regardless, I would have came in second in HS - I had two runs that would have beaten the fastest time, but I ate a couple cones during those runs.
I'm definitely going to be running the Mini a lot this season so hopefully I'll be able to come out on top by the end!
4/7/2013 Run 5
^ I believe this was my fastest run (had passenger, ignore phone ringing at the end). Apparently somewhere along this run I hit two cones, which is unfortunate - 51.2 would have taken the class for sure.
Cliffnotes:
- Was on a completely full tank of gas, left the spare tire in.
- Car handles very well, thanks to weight/good (sport) suspension
- Definitely needs more front camber
- Wish the steering ratio were just a liiiittle quicker
- Posted the fastest time in class.....plus a cone or two
Overall I didn't feel like I was fighting with the car as much, and really the car seemed to push less than my evo - either due to weight or due to being at slower speeds, but in general a very positive experience. Car handled very well, not much push at all and I had a much better feel for where the limit was.
Had a strange mixup with how this region does stock classes - there's no RT class like for scca solos, but instead they put a "T" in front of your class - i.e., "THS" and then you compete with all the other "T" classes, not just those that would originally have been in your class. By the time I requested to move back to just "HS" it was too late - regardless, I would have came in second in HS - I had two runs that would have beaten the fastest time, but I ate a couple cones during those runs.
I'm definitely going to be running the Mini a lot this season so hopefully I'll be able to come out on top by the end!
4/7/2013 Run 5
^ I believe this was my fastest run (had passenger, ignore phone ringing at the end). Apparently somewhere along this run I hit two cones, which is unfortunate - 51.2 would have taken the class for sure.
Cliffnotes:
- Was on a completely full tank of gas, left the spare tire in.
- Car handles very well, thanks to weight/good (sport) suspension
- Definitely needs more front camber
- Wish the steering ratio were just a liiiittle quicker
- Posted the fastest time in class.....plus a cone or two
Last edited by kyoo; 04-12-2013 at 10:04 AM.
#15
http://www.minicooperspeed.com/minic...er-adjustment/
Is this a legitimate way to get more camber out of the cooper?
Is this a legitimate way to get more camber out of the cooper?
#17
#18
#20
#21
#22
gotcha - i'm seriously enjoying this car in autox if you cant tell (no offense to the evo's awesome setup that i've yet to push )
#23
Fixing the Weather Strip & Strut Tower Defenders - 4/9/2013
Finally got some thing I was waiting for with Amazon:
To fix the weather strip that had been coming off:
Not the cleanest, and really reeks - a mix of really strong resin smell and skunk, but I think it got the job done. It was kind of messy, very gooey so I'm gonna have to clean up a bit at some point but:
It's on for now and that's all that matters as far as I'm concerned - hopefully won't cause any issues and definitely won't be getting worse attached like this.
As far as pulling the plastic pins to push in the strut towers for more camber, is it the white parts shown in these images? i.e., the only hole in the strut tower defenders not containing an actual bolt?
greatly appreciated
also: purchased this to soften up the leather in the steering wheel (had been scratched a little by a shop) - worked really well as far as softening up/moisturizing the steering wheel a little - a little sticky for now but I'm sure that will go away.
To fix the weather strip that had been coming off:
Not the cleanest, and really reeks - a mix of really strong resin smell and skunk, but I think it got the job done. It was kind of messy, very gooey so I'm gonna have to clean up a bit at some point but:
It's on for now and that's all that matters as far as I'm concerned - hopefully won't cause any issues and definitely won't be getting worse attached like this.
As far as pulling the plastic pins to push in the strut towers for more camber, is it the white parts shown in these images? i.e., the only hole in the strut tower defenders not containing an actual bolt?
greatly appreciated
also: purchased this to soften up the leather in the steering wheel (had been scratched a little by a shop) - worked really well as far as softening up/moisturizing the steering wheel a little - a little sticky for now but I'm sure that will go away.
Last edited by kyoo; 04-11-2013 at 08:13 PM.
#25
I don't think so, but unless the club involved is unusually stringent in Tech I would not think it a problem. There might be three points to consider:
1. no competitive advantage (adds weight, does not affect geometry)
2. is the car winning trophies at this stage of the game, and finally
3. would the other competitors in the class object? (ask them).
I wouldn't necessarily try it at a National Tour, but there's usually a pretty big difference between NT and Regional competition.
Cheers,
Charlie
1. no competitive advantage (adds weight, does not affect geometry)
2. is the car winning trophies at this stage of the game, and finally
3. would the other competitors in the class object? (ask them).
I wouldn't necessarily try it at a National Tour, but there's usually a pretty big difference between NT and Regional competition.
Cheers,
Charlie