Look what I did this week!!
#1
#6
Took me about 3 hours to get the thing out. That includes getting everything disconnected and labeled. Then the cherry picker, and trying to wedge everything out by myself. I have the big brake booster so that wasn't fun.
Took about a day and a half to clean and paint. This thing was NASTY!! Grease from a blown CV pot joint EVERYWHERE mixed in with old oil, brake fluid, and other fluids. The subframe looks almost new under the one inch of sludge... yes.. one inch. I did clean, die grind, sand, prime, paint, and re-paint. 2 coats on everything (except he exhaust flange) and then let it sit for a day and cure. Took me about 5 hours to get her back in which included tucking a lot of wires and re-wrapping their wire looms. Then squeezing her in by myself again, then getting the header in correctly, and re hanging my exhaust. Then all the wire connections, new plug wires, and a few other goodies. It was WELL worth it. I get a lot of comments on it now, and It helped me track down my one and only oil leak... Gotta buy a new tappet cover gasket.
Oh.. and I switched to fully synthetic oil. The car LOVES it, and my oil pressure is as close to perfect as you can get it, and much more consistent and better pressure while hot. Best part... I bought 5 quarts of full synthetic, and a filter for less than a dino oil change.
Took about a day and a half to clean and paint. This thing was NASTY!! Grease from a blown CV pot joint EVERYWHERE mixed in with old oil, brake fluid, and other fluids. The subframe looks almost new under the one inch of sludge... yes.. one inch. I did clean, die grind, sand, prime, paint, and re-paint. 2 coats on everything (except he exhaust flange) and then let it sit for a day and cure. Took me about 5 hours to get her back in which included tucking a lot of wires and re-wrapping their wire looms. Then squeezing her in by myself again, then getting the header in correctly, and re hanging my exhaust. Then all the wire connections, new plug wires, and a few other goodies. It was WELL worth it. I get a lot of comments on it now, and It helped me track down my one and only oil leak... Gotta buy a new tappet cover gasket.
Oh.. and I switched to fully synthetic oil. The car LOVES it, and my oil pressure is as close to perfect as you can get it, and much more consistent and better pressure while hot. Best part... I bought 5 quarts of full synthetic, and a filter for less than a dino oil change.
#7
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#10
I ended up borrowing the hoist from a friend because the hoist I bought in high school is at my parents house in my dad's garage. And I didn't feel like driving 15 hours to get it. The equalizer bar (lets you crank side to side to angle the motor) was VERY helpful. Considering I pulled it and dropped it in by myself... it REALLY helped in getting the clutch housing around the master cylinder.
#11
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Someone please jump in and correct me but I remember reading somewhere that the meshing of the gears in the shared engine/tranny sump trashes the molecular structure of synthetic oil causing the oil to break down rapidly. I can seem to remember where I read this though. Not to start another oil debate but I though this was common knowledge in the classic mini community. Hate to see you trash your engine if this is the case.
#12
False. Synthetic actually has a HIGHER sheering strength, and much much higher breakdown resistance. Especially Shell Rotella T designed for fleet and heavy duty applications.
In my opinion, synthetics are far superior, and the attachment to dino oil is simply a case of outdated knowledge or a desire to minimize costs. Most of the arguments against synthetics are misconceptions. The real issue, as you realize, is the level of particular anti-wear additives such as zinc and phosphorous. If dino oil is missing these elements, then it's even more of a catastrophe than synthetic oil missing this stuff. Whatever oil you use, make sure it has adequate levels of these substances.
Almost all modern ("SM") rated oils are low in zinc in order to meet the SM rating, which calls for low zinc in order to preserve emissions systems. So if you get a synthetic with good zinc levels, you'll be ahead of any dino oil that has the same.
Some of the common claims against synthetics -
1) causes leaks due to seal shrinkage on old seals - only the original synthetics in the 70's did this. Since then, all synthetic oils have compounds to prevent seal shrinkage.
2) causes leaks due to detergent effect on gunk and deposits - possible. If the engine is old and neglected, and is actually "sealed" with gunk, the inherent cleaning effects of synthetic oil can clear off the gunk and "cause" a leak. I think the effect of this is overrated though, as I started using this stuff on an A-series with at least 40,000 miles on it and here I am, 30,000 miles and 4 years later, and NO LEAKS, believe it or not. Leaks are mainly caused by bad seals and gaskets, not oil!
3) bad for transmissions that share engine oil - I believe this is a confusion with motorcycle motors that run wet clutches. In some of these motors, the extra slickness of the synthetic could interfere with clutch operation. As Minis run dry clutches, it's a non-issue. I don't see how a fluid that is more resistant to shearing and breakdown would be bad for a transmission, which has much more friction than an engine. Obviously, many motorcycles run beautifully on synthetic and in fact it's recommended on a lot bikes like the big air cooled V-Twins, that run really hot and really benefit from the greater heat tolerance of a synthetic oil.
Basically, while dino oil is perfectly adequate and fine if changed often enough - there is no doubt to me that synthetic oil is superior in every way to conventional oil. Just like synthetic rubber is vastly superior to natural rubber (though not to as great as extent.)
As I mentioned elsewhere, I use Redline synthetic which has retained high levels of zinc for wear protection. (I understand Redline no longer carries a API designation such as "SM" because they won't lower their zinc content to meet that standard.) Many of the common Mobil 1 formulations do have lowered zinc levels since they are SM rated, so you'll want to research those and use the additive if they are lacking.
Almost all modern ("SM") rated oils are low in zinc in order to meet the SM rating, which calls for low zinc in order to preserve emissions systems. So if you get a synthetic with good zinc levels, you'll be ahead of any dino oil that has the same.
Some of the common claims against synthetics -
1) causes leaks due to seal shrinkage on old seals - only the original synthetics in the 70's did this. Since then, all synthetic oils have compounds to prevent seal shrinkage.
2) causes leaks due to detergent effect on gunk and deposits - possible. If the engine is old and neglected, and is actually "sealed" with gunk, the inherent cleaning effects of synthetic oil can clear off the gunk and "cause" a leak. I think the effect of this is overrated though, as I started using this stuff on an A-series with at least 40,000 miles on it and here I am, 30,000 miles and 4 years later, and NO LEAKS, believe it or not. Leaks are mainly caused by bad seals and gaskets, not oil!
3) bad for transmissions that share engine oil - I believe this is a confusion with motorcycle motors that run wet clutches. In some of these motors, the extra slickness of the synthetic could interfere with clutch operation. As Minis run dry clutches, it's a non-issue. I don't see how a fluid that is more resistant to shearing and breakdown would be bad for a transmission, which has much more friction than an engine. Obviously, many motorcycles run beautifully on synthetic and in fact it's recommended on a lot bikes like the big air cooled V-Twins, that run really hot and really benefit from the greater heat tolerance of a synthetic oil.
Basically, while dino oil is perfectly adequate and fine if changed often enough - there is no doubt to me that synthetic oil is superior in every way to conventional oil. Just like synthetic rubber is vastly superior to natural rubber (though not to as great as extent.)
As I mentioned elsewhere, I use Redline synthetic which has retained high levels of zinc for wear protection. (I understand Redline no longer carries a API designation such as "SM" because they won't lower their zinc content to meet that standard.) Many of the common Mobil 1 formulations do have lowered zinc levels since they are SM rated, so you'll want to research those and use the additive if they are lacking.
Some years ago I worked with an expert in lubrication technology (who worked for the Government and not an oil company). When I asked him what was wrong with synthetic oil he had a simple answer... its too damn expensive. Otherwise it outperforms "normal" oil in pretty much every aspect. Remember though that protection levels are directly proportional to viscosity. Most synthetics tend to come in lower viscosities than the other sort. The good thing is that this is sort of OK because they have a more film strength. However, you really do want to try and match numbers. 0W30 is not good enough.
I used to use Shell 10W60 but you can't seem to get that anymore so now its Castrol 15W60. Another good thing about synthetics is that they can produce good film strength without additives so they tend not to "wear" out quickly like ordinary oil when the long chain polymers additives (that provide the high end viscosity numbers) get chopped up.
I've been running the same engine and gearbox since 1992 for commuting and the odd competition. I had to replace some gearbox bearings because I left old oil (I didn't think it was that old) while the car was in storage for 4 years. Other than that I still get over 1500 miles to the pint. Not bad for a mini motor with a few leaks...
Put me firmly in the synthetic fan club.
I used to use Shell 10W60 but you can't seem to get that anymore so now its Castrol 15W60. Another good thing about synthetics is that they can produce good film strength without additives so they tend not to "wear" out quickly like ordinary oil when the long chain polymers additives (that provide the high end viscosity numbers) get chopped up.
I've been running the same engine and gearbox since 1992 for commuting and the odd competition. I had to replace some gearbox bearings because I left old oil (I didn't think it was that old) while the car was in storage for 4 years. Other than that I still get over 1500 miles to the pint. Not bad for a mini motor with a few leaks...
Put me firmly in the synthetic fan club.
So now you know, and knowing is half the battle... G. I. JOE!
#13
MtyMous,
Engine looks awesome! I really like the color. I did not get hung up on making sure everything was exactly original... to me, its about what you like - unless the goal is to make everything original.
I am not going to comment on the synthetic vs. non-synthetic. I am running Castrol 20W-50. I have seen comments about not using synthetic oil too, but other than ZDDP (zinc content) I have not been overly concerned and looked at other oil options. I am more concerned with eliminating my one leak after getting the car back together :(
Keep us posted on your car adventures!
Engine looks awesome! I really like the color. I did not get hung up on making sure everything was exactly original... to me, its about what you like - unless the goal is to make everything original.
I am not going to comment on the synthetic vs. non-synthetic. I am running Castrol 20W-50. I have seen comments about not using synthetic oil too, but other than ZDDP (zinc content) I have not been overly concerned and looked at other oil options. I am more concerned with eliminating my one leak after getting the car back together :(
Keep us posted on your car adventures!
#14
MtyMous,
Engine looks awesome! I really like the color. I did not get hung up on making sure everything was exactly original... to me, its about what you like - unless the goal is to make everything original.
I am not going to comment on the synthetic vs. non-synthetic. I am running Castrol 20W-50. I have seen comments about not using synthetic oil too, but other than ZDDP (zinc content) I have not been overly concerned and looked at other oil options. I am more concerned with eliminating my one leak after getting the car back together :(
Keep us posted on your car adventures!
Engine looks awesome! I really like the color. I did not get hung up on making sure everything was exactly original... to me, its about what you like - unless the goal is to make everything original.
I am not going to comment on the synthetic vs. non-synthetic. I am running Castrol 20W-50. I have seen comments about not using synthetic oil too, but other than ZDDP (zinc content) I have not been overly concerned and looked at other oil options. I am more concerned with eliminating my one leak after getting the car back together :(
Keep us posted on your car adventures!
And I'll keep you guys updated on my synthetic adventure. My bet is that it continues to HELP not hinder. I understand that the posts were just out of concern hence why I wasn't being rude in my reply. But this motor is going to be replaced soon so I'll see what the synthetic ends up doing to it and we'll go from there.
#15
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This is one of those things that you will never know if it made a positive difference if it does what it's supposed to and I don't think you don't want to find out if it doesn't work. I tend to be very skeptic about oil because everything you hear and read seems to be written by a salesman and I don't have a few spare engines to destroy in a test to find out whats really true.
I can't believe you did this in a weekend. The engine doesn't take long to pull but the detail work involved makes it pretty impressive. What kind of paint did you use?
I can't believe you did this in a weekend. The engine doesn't take long to pull but the detail work involved makes it pretty impressive. What kind of paint did you use?
#17
This is one of those things that you will never know if it made a positive difference if it does what it's supposed to and I don't think you don't want to find out if it doesn't work. I tend to be very skeptic about oil because everything you hear and read seems to be written by a salesman and I don't have a few spare engines to destroy in a test to find out whats really true.
I can't believe you did this in a weekend. The engine doesn't take long to pull but the detail work involved makes it pretty impressive. What kind of paint did you use?
I can't believe you did this in a weekend. The engine doesn't take long to pull but the detail work involved makes it pretty impressive. What kind of paint did you use?
I'm not too worried about the oil. Every application I've ever used Synthetic in has been a great improvement. The mini is no exception. Even my brother's cafe racer bike loves synthetic, and it has a wet clutch. I'll let you guys know if it turns out bad for me, but these past 2 weeks have been nothing but improved oil pressure, and smoother shifting as well as smoother operation.
ANYWAY... lol. The paint is a very high temp ceramic paint. It's great stuff. It's shown me where my oil leaks are, and it cleans up with the wipe of a towel. It's great. I love it. Take the time to prep and prime and you'll be very happy you did.
Thanks a lot. It REALLY means a lot to hear that. It's not really where I want it to be yet, but a motor swap and some body work will fix that. It's been slow moving mainly because I'm in college and can't work this semester. Scraping my pennies together and skipping meals to pay for Mini parts. haha
#18
It's hard to get a straight answer on the synthetic/petroleum-based oil issue... I've read posts on UK-based Mini forums from sources that claim that even modern synthetic oils are "unspooled" much more quickly in the wet sump gearbox than petroleum-based. Wish we could get a solid answer either way.
I use Castrol "High Mileage" formula (a petroleum-based oil), 20W50 and love it - before using that oil I had numerous small oil leaks (likely due to shrunken seals) and now I have none. Well worth the slight delay in the morning when I have to wait to let the engine warm up. I might switch to a synthetic one day, but so far I've had great results with the heavier-weight Castrol...
I use Castrol "High Mileage" formula (a petroleum-based oil), 20W50 and love it - before using that oil I had numerous small oil leaks (likely due to shrunken seals) and now I have none. Well worth the slight delay in the morning when I have to wait to let the engine warm up. I might switch to a synthetic one day, but so far I've had great results with the heavier-weight Castrol...
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