R55 Low Electrical Problem - No Start
#1
Low Electrical Problem - No Start
Background: 2009 Clubman has stranded me twice on seperate locations due to low power.
Car will not crank over; although it is obvious that the start solenoid is trying to engage.
Checked for any "on" accessories, open doors, and lights left on. Nothing has been found.
I seem to recall a TSB on MINI's concerning electrical drain issues, is that correct?
Car: 2009 Clubman JCW - Nav - Cold Weather Package - Premium Package - Park Radar
- Erik
Car will not crank over; although it is obvious that the start solenoid is trying to engage.
Checked for any "on" accessories, open doors, and lights left on. Nothing has been found.
I seem to recall a TSB on MINI's concerning electrical drain issues, is that correct?
Car: 2009 Clubman JCW - Nav - Cold Weather Package - Premium Package - Park Radar
- Erik
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#8
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lorena & San Antonio, TX
Posts: 641
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I'm interpreting "IBS" as BMW's Intelligent Battery Sensor; and from your statement, I get the impression that it's optional equipment. If so, how do you check (other than electrical problems/drains) to determine if one is installed on your vehicle? I don't have the original window sticker, so no ability to reference that...
#9
This key off battery drain issue is what's brought me here to this forum- hi all
On a 2010 Cooper S, I measured the current through the negative battery terminal, which should account for all electrical use.
Immediately after locking the doors, I saw about 2.7A draw, which dropped down in stages as the systems went to sleep and shut down.
Roughly 450mA after about a half minute to 40 seconds post lock.
At about 1 min 12 seconds, it dropped to 260mA and remained there for a long as I cared to stand out in the cold, about 10 minutes.
Not the 1A mentioned here, but even at 250mA, it would be considered a problem by most, as OEM standby current draw should be normally be below 20mA. 250mA is in the range of having a relay or two remaining turned on, which would cause problems unless the car is regularly driven or kept topped with a maintenance charger. I'd find it surprising if this is normal and they simply expect the car to be driven enough to recharge and copensate for this drain.
It may be that it eventually drops to a normal level after some extended period, but I didn't have time to do it, as the car had to be used.
I'll run a test on it if no one's already got the scoop on this, either from official word or their own testing-
On a 2010 Cooper S, I measured the current through the negative battery terminal, which should account for all electrical use.
Immediately after locking the doors, I saw about 2.7A draw, which dropped down in stages as the systems went to sleep and shut down.
Roughly 450mA after about a half minute to 40 seconds post lock.
At about 1 min 12 seconds, it dropped to 260mA and remained there for a long as I cared to stand out in the cold, about 10 minutes.
Not the 1A mentioned here, but even at 250mA, it would be considered a problem by most, as OEM standby current draw should be normally be below 20mA. 250mA is in the range of having a relay or two remaining turned on, which would cause problems unless the car is regularly driven or kept topped with a maintenance charger. I'd find it surprising if this is normal and they simply expect the car to be driven enough to recharge and copensate for this drain.
It may be that it eventually drops to a normal level after some extended period, but I didn't have time to do it, as the car had to be used.
I'll run a test on it if no one's already got the scoop on this, either from official word or their own testing-
#10
This key off battery drain issue is what's brought me here to this forum- hi all
On a 2010 Cooper S, I measured the current through the negative battery terminal, which should account for all electrical use.
Immediately after locking the doors, I saw about 2.7A draw, which dropped down in stages as the systems went to sleep and shut down.
Roughly 450mA after about a half minute to 40 seconds post lock.
At about 1 min 12 seconds, it dropped to 260mA and remained there for a long as I cared to stand out in the cold, about 10 minutes.
Not the 1A mentioned here, but even at 250mA, it would be considered a problem by most, as OEM standby current draw should be normally be below 20mA. 250mA is in the range of having a relay or two remaining turned on, which would cause problems unless the car is regularly driven or kept topped with a maintenance charger. I'd find it surprising if this is normal and they simply expect the car to be driven enough to recharge and copensate for this drain.
It may be that it eventually drops to a normal level after some extended period, but I didn't have time to do it, as the car had to be used.
I'll run a test on it if no one's already got the scoop on this, either from official word or their own testing-
On a 2010 Cooper S, I measured the current through the negative battery terminal, which should account for all electrical use.
Immediately after locking the doors, I saw about 2.7A draw, which dropped down in stages as the systems went to sleep and shut down.
Roughly 450mA after about a half minute to 40 seconds post lock.
At about 1 min 12 seconds, it dropped to 260mA and remained there for a long as I cared to stand out in the cold, about 10 minutes.
Not the 1A mentioned here, but even at 250mA, it would be considered a problem by most, as OEM standby current draw should be normally be below 20mA. 250mA is in the range of having a relay or two remaining turned on, which would cause problems unless the car is regularly driven or kept topped with a maintenance charger. I'd find it surprising if this is normal and they simply expect the car to be driven enough to recharge and copensate for this drain.
It may be that it eventually drops to a normal level after some extended period, but I didn't have time to do it, as the car had to be used.
I'll run a test on it if no one's already got the scoop on this, either from official word or their own testing-
On my 08 if I am on a call via bluetooth in the car I can get out of the car shut the door and lock it, the call will remain on the radio in the car and the radio will not shut down. I.E. I can not hear them now because the door is closed and windows shut but the radio system will remain on until the call is disconnected or 30 minutes has passed which ever comes first. I know this because I have tested it.
Now as most of the systems in the 2010 are the same as the 2008 i suspect you would find the same thing. But at any rate the car does not go to full sleep for approximately 15 minutes.
#12
If you leave your car keys too close to the car it will drain the battery. I made this mistake when car was in our garage by leaving my keys on the seat when I went on vacation. Our Lexus has same problem if keys are left by it. Ten feet maybe too close but not sure of distance.
#13
The battery on my 2009 MCS Clubman was replaced under warranty a couple of weeks ago. What started out as an occasional problem turned into a regular process of jumping the car (I'll admit I drive it very little in the winter). With my 2 year service coming up, I was going to have mini address the battery issue, but before I got it there the high pressure fuel pump died. Although not originally offered, I did get four days in a 2011 MCS loaner. Its neat to check out the differences.
For various reasons I keep my key in the garage near the car (not in it). I do not have bluetooth or the comfort access system, but I wonder if I need to find a new storage place for the key that is further away from the car?
For various reasons I keep my key in the garage near the car (not in it). I do not have bluetooth or the comfort access system, but I wonder if I need to find a new storage place for the key that is further away from the car?
#14
If you leave your car keys too close to the car it will drain the battery. I made this mistake when car was in our garage by leaving my keys on the seat when I went on vacation. Our Lexus has same problem if keys are left by it. Ten feet maybe too close but not sure of distance.
I have had issues of a bad battery (very common issue on the 2nd gen MINI) and there is NO reason that this should cause any problem. I have even left the car for more than a week with the key fob hanging in its normal spot and been able to get in the car after coming back and start it with no problem.
It is also very well known that the alternator on this car can barely keep up if you are running headlights and some other electronics in the car. So short drives and many starts are going to be a problem.
The car does go thru a polling of all the computers occasionally but should not see the key unless you press on one of the CA buttons. That is how it is designed.
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