So, here it goes. Have some questions for which I have a level of indecisiveness regarding maintenance safety (i.e., bodily) and safe technique (good for the vehicle). I've done some front (top side) maintenance, but no under the car maintenance yet:

1) After struggling with where/how to jack up and lift and support the front end to do an an oil service, I decided on this: Use a 39" inch long 2"x4" under the door sill of my 2002 MC, between the OEM jack points, to jack up the car, then place jack stand under front OEM jack point. Then do on opposite side. Ok to do it this way?
2) Regarding the manner in which the jack stands' contact point meets the MINI's OEM jack point, this does not strike me as ideal and I have seen several ways to deal with this. Is my set up, as follows, ok? In experimentation mode, I simply used Harbor Freight's jack stand rubber pads, so that conceivably there is a superior meeting (the jack stands' metal construction doesn't come into direct contact with the rubber OEM jack points). These are the pads: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...and-95952.html
3) Since I want to keep the floor jack in place as an extra safey measure, in addition to the two jack stands I place, I have this question: Once I lower the second side of my MINI onto the second jack stand, that leaves the floor jack depressurized... In order to bring it back up to "support" some of the load, I need to raise it. Here's the question? Will this last step incrementally remove some of the load from the place it should definitely be ... one of the floor jacks? Ideally, I want to have a jack stand under each OEM jack point AND the floor jack in place under the 2"x4" under a door sill. Please advise on proper way to do this w/o taking any load off one of the jack stands...
4) How does one bend the tabs on the 3-ton Harbor Freight jack stands? This is an explicit instruction on the product. It states you should do this once you put the ratchet in the stand. It seems this is a safety step to keep the ratchet from possibly slipping, but it is not clear how to bend the tab or how it keeps the ratchet from slipping. Am I supposed to bend and unbend this tab every time I use the jacks? Need perspective as I am boggled by this.
5) This guy (follow URL) seems to be wrong. He gives a demo on a R50 MINI Cooper oil service and once he gets to the oil filter and oil filter housing, he says you should discard the rigid cylindrical core and the spring that keeps it in place if you have that type of housing architecture. This runs counter to everything I know, which states that YOU ARE TO KEEP BOTH OF THESE PIECES, even though the current OEM filters have rigid cores built in. Any perspective? Here's the URL: http://www.promini.com/technical/cooper_oil_filter.php
6) What should I make of the health disclaimer on the Harbor Freight floor jack regarding brass components containing lead and having health repurcussions? I have ALWAYS avoided products with the California safety code note, but in this situation are the brass pieces solely internal components -- or are they handled, and are you exposed, when using the jack? Seems like a good jack, but if the brass parts are "in my face" I will consider getting a unit with no health disclaimer. Please let me know.

Thank you from a new poster but an old MINI owner (2002 MC; one of the first to own one in Fairfield County, Connecticut). Still have original but have had many things replaced, including the tranny recently (at ~98k).

 

I would say you are quite thorough.

I use a jack on the front jack point, then lower the rear point to a jack stand and leave the jack in place. I personally do not do the 2x4 on the frame because it doesn't really feel safe to me - but plenty of people here do it. I feel safer with one on the stand and one on the jack.

I had an 06 (and now a 2010) so the internals of my filter were a little different than yours, but you do not need to keep the filter core or spring. The filters were redesigned at some point so that they are no longer necessary. I guess if I were feeling paranoid about it I might keep the spring, but the core is not at all necessary.

By law, Harbor Freight has to put those warnings on since they sell in California. Having lived in California, it's on EVERYTHING there from jacks to toilet paper holders to hand tools. I wouldn't put much stock in it, just wash your hands when you're done using it and don't lick the jack

 

Go visit blimeycabrio.com
He has a world of how to stuff with pictures. He uses the 2X4 method as do I and have had no problems. Just remember, no matter what, don't stick yourself under that car without floor stands on all four points.

Also check out soopercooperinfo.com
It is a library of all things MINI. URL's to everything you can think of including MINI rubber stamps that he just added.

PS: That includes sticking your head up under the wheel well to see better when you're detailing the undercarraige.

 

For oil changes and everything but brake/wheel work, build/buy a set of ramps...it will be safer, and be faster!!
CA seems to think everything is dangerous....fact is anything can be dangerous, but the label things have that product contains....
Seems to be a bit of a catch-all...some items MUST contain hazardous chemicals/metals...occasional exposure is ok, just don't injest/lick it. If you want, wear gloves...PS used motor oil also gets the same warning!! Changing it will expose you!!
To jack the carv up when I must, I use a hydraulic jack (on a hard frame location, front or rear, then put the jack stands in the right spot...no complicated 2x4 bracing....I do only the front or the back...slightly more work, but more stable. If I need more space, then ramps at one end, and jack the other...I only have 2 jack stands!! I will usually lower the jack enough to put some weight on the stands, but keep most of it on the jack for a 3rd point of support.

 

PS keep the oil filter basket thinggy if you have it..just cause it is on the web does not mean it is true or correct. Folks that toss it often have oil psi issues.

 

One thought for you...you are a good planner by the sound of it, but be prepared, auto repair/mataince is an inexact process requiring judgement, logic, and planning...some things you just try and see if it works...just keep the car stable, and get help the first time!!

 

i lift the car by the frame.. it's between the front lift block and front wheel, in a bit further.. you'll see the big metal area.. it's strong enough to lift the car and have been lifting there for 7.5 years! I lift from that point and put stands on both the front and back jack points.. then i lift the other side.. done.. car wont move\fall as long as everything is nice and lined up. Give the car a good push before putting yourself under it to be 100% sure.

phil.

 

+1 on ramps for oil changes. They are by far the safest way to support a vehicle (especially one this light) short of a lift or pit. The more zany the lifting strategy is, the more points of failure you have. Get a good set of ramps (2-3000lb ones) and be done with it.

 

Hey Matt:

Those friggin' Rhino Ramps slid on me as I rode up on 'em, landing squarely under my car. No damage to car, but damage to ramps. Back they went to the store for refund. I am not sure they provide the same support that stands do, and climbing up onto them is a drag. Thanks for the input, though.

 

For the best ramps, just get some scrap 2x6 lumber at the depot...the ends will be painted to indicate the price...usually .25 to 1.00 a chunk..shorted is cheaper...then cut, stack and screw...some liquid nails helps...toss some old paint with sand in it for anti-skid, and depending on the number of voids you left, they can still be ok for weight...storage is easy, just invert one, and stack. They can be modified as needed for lowered cars, and as long as you make the from stacked pieces..like Lego's, they are super strong. The rhino ones are ok...but since they are over-engeneered, they are kinda light...and they cost money...as opposed to 5$ or free lumber, and a few screws and a tube of construction adhesive.

 

Keep it simple....
I'm not sure how the op is using a 2x4 to help lift/support the car...I only ask why?
Just put the trollly jack (whelled hydrolic jack)or bottle jack under your spot, jack it up..then put the jack supports under the right spots (you might need pads for your jack stands), and lower the car onto them...the jack stands telescope to get within about 1 inch of the bottom of the car, then just lower it! Simple.
There are some interesting ways folks have jacked cars...for sPecfic reasons exaust work, tranny removal, etc...none of thses odd ways need be used for prevenative mataince.
There are tons of hard/solid locations to jack a mini...better than the oem min truck jack locations too!!

 

Because I have no first-hand knowledge of where these alternate jack points are, I am forced to use the 2"x4" on the sill to jack up the car, so that I can keep the OEM jack points free for my stands. If you can point me to a drawing of where the alternate, strong jack points are, that would be great. Until then, I'm sticking with my method.

 

I usually use the jack points to lift the car and put a jack stand underneath the frame about 8-10 inches in. Lower the the jack until the chassis rest on the jack stand but let the weight rest on both. I use a thick folded cloth between the jack stand and the chassis to prevent gouging the chassis paint/sealant. The rubber pads from Harbor Freight looks good too.

For oil changes, I just park my car with the front wheels on top of a speed bump. (Make sure the hand brake and tranny are engaged). It gives enough clearance to access the oil pan plug.