Hi All... I'm a total detailing newbie... have never done any of the things you're talking about in the past, just washed in wash bays or (dare I say it) car washes. I think once or twice in the past (maybe 18 years ago) I waxed one of my cars.

Now that I'm more attune to what a good detailing process can do, I'm trying to study up in here on what to get. My Mini is about 3 weeks away, so I have some time to try to learn and order some products.

I have a few quick questions:

1) I've been reading Yo's Dad thread (Zaino, Meguiars, Griots, other) about which products to use, because I'm in the same boat... Question though, is, if I do the same and not have the dealer wash or detail the car when it arrives (I saw a brand new S on their lot with swirls!), does that mean that it is unprotected and needs to be detailed in the first day?

2) Many responses to which products to use say "use what works best for you"... but in my case, I've never used any of these. Should I just start with a starter's kit from Griots (or Zaino or Meguiars if they make the same?)

3) I'm totally perplexed over the ClearBra issue... I know it has been discussed ad nasuem, but I can't decide on it. Many people here swear by it... one of the MAs at my dealer (who is pretty knowledgeable and keeps his Mini spotless) says not to do it... and yesterday I saw a pretty dirty and I would assume at least a few-month old Mini that didn't have one and there weren't any noticeable chips on the bonnet. I also don't know how the ClearBra works with detailing (waxes, polishes). My first instinct is not to get it because I like the look of the car without it, but not having had a Mini before... I'm unsure about the amount of chips, etc. that they attract (sounds like a lot).

4) Last and not least... since I'm such a newbie... is it possible to attend a detailing clinic? I'm currently in Tennessee but may be moving back to Northern California in November. If that happens, I'm wondering if I can swing through LA to one of OctaneGuy's clinics. If it doesn't, does anyone know about clinics nearby? I think I saw info about one in Charlotte.

A note about my personality as I realize that will help in any answers... it's possible that I will be a minor detailer... not likely to buy a lot of products or detail it every weekend (not even sure if anyone here even does that, but it sounds like it's possible). Like I said, in the past, I was pretty apathetic about it, even with new cars. However, I know that I'm really going to feel different about the Mini and will want to take care of it and make it look good. So, my intention is to keep it clean and do some specific things (like claybar) that I wouldn't have done in the past. I also have a hand condition (not arthritis, but similar) so I can't spend super long hours doing hand work.

Any help is much appreciated as I'm trying to learn as much as I can before the Mini arrives.

Sorry for a long post, but thanks for reading!

 

If you're just starting out, I'd stick to one brand for the majority of your products, as they're usually all developed to work together, and that's simple. People here all tend to swear by one product or another, but most of the long-time detailing guys will tell you that almost any of the name-brands will do a great job, and will CERTAINLY be far preferable to a basic, occasional wash. I personally went with Maguiars, mainly because I was able to purchase products one-by-one over several weeks at local stores like Wal Mart or Auto Zone, but really any brand (Zaino, Detailers Paradise, Griot's, etc.) will make your baby look fantastic.

Whatever brand you decide on, what you want to start with are:

* Car wash solution
* Detail spray
* Wax - a synthetic like Meguiar's NXT will last longer than a carnuba-based wax like Gold Class, but migght not look as "wet" as carnuba. For non-pros, you probably won't even notice the difference, however... I prefer liquid wax because it seems easier to apply.
* Bucket (or two, if you have the funds), with Grit Guard
* Lamb's wool wash mit (real wool, not synthetic)
* Wheel rim cleaner (removes tough brake dust)
*Wheel cleaning brush
* Several 100% cotton, USA-made white towels
* Microfiber polishing cloths (buy the good ones like Detailers Paradise sells and avoid the cheap-o $3 ones you get from the auto parts store)
* Interior detailing spray
* Leather kit (if you have a leather interior)
* Glass cleaner (I just use Windex and like it better than the high-end stuff I've tried, honestly - just don't use amonia-based cleaners if you get the windows tinted).


If you want to go to the next level:

*Clay bar - used to clean contaminents from paint
* Polishing compound - like Meguiar'as ColorX - used to remove scratches and swirl marks from paint
* Random Orbital polisher - like a Porter Cable - the true fanatic's tool... Don't even try one out unless you mean to buy one, as they're the crack cocaine of detailing tools.

Of course, if you need tips on using any of the above, start with a forum search here (I think I've asked every stupid question in the book - some more than once, actually) or ask - this is a friendly, helpful bunch!

As for time, I spend about 2 hours a week between all my detailing, vacuuming, washing and polishing - WAY more than I EVER did on any other car I've had. the MINI is so small, honestly, it's not work, it's fun (for me, anyway). I spend about 15 minutes every few days using detail spray on the exterior and interior, then wash the car fully every week or two, tops. I save waxing for a monthly thing (sometuimes I just do high-dirt areas like the rear or the doors to save time) and things like clay barring and polishing with the Porter Cable for my twice-yearly regime. Some people do FAR more work than I do, but since I garage keep my car it doesn;t seem to get as dirty.

I don't have a bra, so I can't comment, other thhan to say that my car (purchased earlier this season) already has some small chips on the bonnet, so even well-maintained cars are NOT immune!

 

For (1), it's not going to kill your paint if you don't detail it the first day. The main part that protects is the wax; the washing, claying and polishing is just to clean/shine it before applying wax (or paint sealant to the paint). If you don't have a chance to give it a good cleaning the same day you pick it up, it should be OK if you wait until the weekend (and you do want to give it a good cleaning before applying wax, so it adheres to the paint, and doesn't trap dirt underneath). (Maybe some members will claim it's terrible to let it go a day without having wax protectant; but I didn't really take any special care of my MINI for the first year and a half I had it, and it still looks great when I do a good detailing now -- so I don't think a few days will kill you).

For (3), I really wish I had gotten a ClearBra. You really can barely notice them on the car, and my hood has probably a dozen small chips in the paint from rocks. The paint is pretty soft (or so I've heard) -- it certainly does chip easily; and a ClearBra will prevent those paint chips, and just leave little dents in the clear film. You also take care of it just like paint -- wash, clay, wax, etc. It doesn't have anything to do with the car being dirty or clean -- it is to protect it from paint scratches. Dirt will accumulate over the ClearBra same as it does on your paint.

 

Topic 1, dealer detailing. If you plan to hand-wash and to detail your car, I recommend telling your MA today, and when the car gets into town, not to detail it. I've heard stories both good and bad about swirl-marks and washing practices, and am happy to shoulder all the burden myself. My 2-month-old Mini has zero swirl-marks.

 

Oh yes, I almost forgot another important detailing device.

Get one of those "California Dust Brushes" or whatever they're called. They suck dust off the car without scratching. Not sure where the dust goes, perhaps some other dimension, since it sure doesn't shake off the brush. I've been very impressed with mine.

You will quickly notice that as it drives down the road, your Mini's aerodynamics suck all the dust off the road. Much of it then settles on your boot and back window. The brush is great for a daily dusting.

One item regarding synthetic/acrylic waxes: I use Klasse Sealant Glaze. Tried to treat it just like carnuba-based wax, removing with dry towel. It left weird streaks on the test car (wife's Volvo). Asked here on NAM, and found out that some synthetics are best wiped off with a towel that is just a teeny bit wet.

Enjoy Grover, you're going to have a blast. Welcome to the Cult of Mini!

--Doug

 

By the way, as far as I can tell, the new car will not have any wax, or will only have minimal wax when you pick it up (mine didn't, anyway). After you get the car home, wash it up (there's no telling what the dealership guys did to it) and put on a coat or two of wax... That way you're off to a great start!

 

I bought a thing of paint prep spray for the new mini. I plan on giving it a hose down after I wash it, the clay, then wash, then wax. I think nothing will be on and the wax will bond like glue then. cant wait for the new car...

The duster idea. California duster eh? I wonder if they have them at home good stores like 5 and 10's. Hm. I see cotton ones are recommended. gota give a look now. only piece of the detail puzzle that I didnt yet address. Dust. can score into the paint if you speedshine over it I guess.

so many levels to consider!

 

The dealer will most likely detail your car and wax it before they deliver it to you. What you're hearing is the few people who don't even want them to bother and plan on doing it themselves as soon as they get home. Not for the normal person...I would say, wait a while and wax etc when youa re ready.

When we say What works for you, we don't mean whatever brand you are already using. We mean, within your budget and the amount of effort you want to put in. You don't have to get every little product, in fact you don't need most of of them. But any and each one we talk about is an improvement, and some of us want to always have the best. Also, yes we can spend an entire day working on the paint, but I wouldn't expect a normal person to do that, maybe just an hour washing and waxing one coat. So if that's all you want to do then just buy a good wax and some good sponges or whatever you want. You can always add products and effort as your interest grows. We didn't start with all this stuff either!

As for the clear bra, they are highly recommended for anyone who drives their car regularly. The vertical front of the MINI bonnett is just a magnet for chips. Most minis I see without them are showing more silver than paint! They are less visible on silver/lighter colors than on darker colors, but still worth it IMO. You treat it just like paint and wash and wax as normal.

 

Northern California to attend one of my clinics? Well, I guess a 9 hour drive is better than what 3 days from Tennessee?

But even if you were able to make it to SoCal, I'd welcome you and even offer a place to stay for the night if you wanted.

As for your car what people have said so far is pretty good. Since you don't anticipate yourself detailing much finding the simplest solution is going to be best.

First of all, stay clear of those California dusters. I know some people love them, but IMO, dragging dust across my paint is not a healthy thing to do. Sure you can shake them and reuse them, but IMO, the first time you use a California Duster is the best and only time to use it, before it's collected any dust.

What color is your new MINI??? (edit: Ooops HyperBlue/Black)

Dark colors will show swirls and scratches more easily, so you will need to baby the paint more. Lighter colors like Pure Silver and Pepper White can take more neglect without noticing too much.

As far as the Clear Bra goes--I think it's a great solution on dark paints, since rock chips will show as white specs. However, I don't like the edge seam that Clear Bra has on the bonnet. It looks like a key scratch IMO. I wouldn't bother on lighter color paints. Respraying the front end with paint will cost about as much as doing a clear bra install.

Other factors of Clear Bra include whether you will be adding bonnet stripes from the factory. If so, then you will have to put the Clear Bra over those stripes and should you want to change them due to wear or just change of opinion, you will have to do the Clear Bra over again.

Soooooo, my suggestions are simple.

Watch the car wash video on my site at www.ShowCarGarage.com
From there, you can wax your car with any of the previously mentioned products. I'm partial to Meguiar's because I use their system and like their products and support. So NXT Tech Wax for wax and NXT Car Wash Soap for washing, and NXT Speed Detailer along with a generous supply of good quality microfibers for daily cleaning or every couple of days. Depends on whether the car is garaged or lives outdoors.

Richard

 

I use the Cal duster on my cars all the time... but with a lot of attention
not to drag the larger dust on the rear bumper area. that duster will
scratch the paint if you're not careful.

it's a great product for the most part, but the surface under the
dust needs to be clean and protected with a slick wax to make it
work well.

 

Overall, everyone has really covered so many of the best points. I think you're already in good hands just from reading what's been posted so far.

In response to OctaneGuy's post (and also KenChan's), here are my additional thoughts about dusters:

1) The California Duster does not scratch paint in and of ifself. However, the particles it picks up can scratch if it's used inappropriately.

So what's inappropriate use?

• You should never use the Cal Duster if your car is actually dirty- as opposed to lightly dusty. Lightly dusty is very safe, IMO, and heavily dusty or dirty is not safe at all. An example of "lightly dusty" in my environment (dry Colorado) would be the amount of dust that accumulates overnight in my garage. The actual amount would vary between environments, but that gives you an idea.
• As Kenchan mentioned, some areas of the car may be dustier than others... you should be careful to avoid these particular areas even if the rest of your car is at an appropriate level of dusty.
• You should also never use the Cal Duster if you have not stored it properly, i.e. in its case and not on the dirty ground or anywhere else. I like to apply the golden claybar rule: If you drop it, throw it out!
• You also shouldn't use the Cal Duster on a hot surface or in the direct sun. Not that this is so much for safety reasons as it is annoyance-prevention. The parafin which is baked into the Cal Duster's threads will heat up and cause streaks on your paint. (which you can remove later... after the paint is cool with a QD spray)

2) If you're not comfortable with the idea of the Cal Duster and/or its rules of use, then buy a Wool Duster instead: http://www.detailersparadise.com/View.asp?Id=143312005517452-691513519663

The wool duster is safe and very effective IMO. It primarily uses static electricity to pick up the dust. You don't drag the duster on your paint as you dust, like you kind of do with the Cal Duster.

You simply dust super-lightly over the paint... almost not touching the paint at all. (spinning the handle between your hands before you dust will help "fluff" it and will build up the static electricity, thereby increasing its abilities). Not only is it safer, but you can also use it in sunlight and on a hot surface.

You do have to occasionally wash the wool duster with a wool shampoo (like Woolite, or we sell one too)... usually every couple of months. It also helps to brush the wool duster out with a wire brush (looks like a dog brush) from time to time... usually every few weeks.

Occasionally, we'll still use the Cal Duster, but less and less. I prefer the wool duster now that I've discovered it!

-Heather

 

Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread... your advice is very helpful. I have to say, I've never found a forum like this... everyone is helpful, nice, supportive. If only there were forums like this for everyday life!

I still have a lot to absorb. I downloaded Griot's detailing book (free PDF or you can pay to have a printed version sent to you). I'll check that out and also ordered a catalog from them. I have to say that my online experience with Griot has been the best. Their site is well desgined, easy to understand, easy to look at, etc. I guess you pay for that, huh? The Meguair's site isn't as easy, not as pleasing to my eye (okay, i work for graphic design firms so this stuff is important to me!), but their prices are definitely better! I haven't checked Zaino yet... I have a feeling all of their numbers Z2, Z5, etc. are going to boggle my mind. I haven't committed to any of them yet.

ImagoX --- your "starter's list is great and much appreciated.

OctaneGuy --- thanks for the invitation! I may take you up on it. If I go back to California, I would try to stop in LA on the way from Tennessee... I like to go to the Getty Center when I can. I usually stay in the Santa Monica/Venice area... not sure what part of LA you are in. Or, if I'm in the Bay Area... it is only about a 6 hour drive from there. That was definitely an okay drive in my Mitsubishi Mirage so I'm sure it will be a blast in my Mini.

And thanks to all who weighed in on the ClearBra... this may be the most vexing decision for me... I don't like the "seam" look of it, but also wouldn't mind protecting from rock chips.

My Mini will most likely live outdoors, too. I'm not a homeowner... mostly an apartment dweller, so it will get dirty quick, I'm sure. When I lived in the hills in Berkeley, the fog would roll in at night and in the morning and by the afternoon, there would be a nice film of "fog dirt" on the whole car!

I've got to get busy, though... although I have about 3 weeks left, I want to make sure I get things here on time for that first wash, wax.

I may have some questions to ask later... thanks again to everyone for your help!

 

RE: the Clearbra. I don't worry about the nearly invisible seam across the bonnet. Not only is it a much, much better alternative to ugly chips, but it's just another thing to raise the curiosity of those non-MINI people who come up close for a stare.

 

oh, i remembered another thing I wanted to ask for input on...

i would love to keep the engine bay clean since I'll be buying this car new from the get go... not being a mechanical guy (couldn't you tell?) i don't know the first thing about what not to get wet or touch with cleaning supplies.

are there any ways to keep the bay clean without the possibility of screwing something up mechanical/electrical (i.e., the things that keep the Mini motoring). any cleaning products that are best?

thanks!

 

Be vary careful with the engine bay, there is a lot of sensitive stuff in there. If you spray it at all I would only use a very light mist (I will often use the filtered setting on my mr clean, or my new ultimate nozzle has a light mist just before it shuts off), and even then direct it only to the surfaces you are trying to clean. That's not going to clean it, so that is more the solution to rinse...to clean it right you should use some brush and grease-removing soap (dish soap, simple green, etc). After it is all dry (or the next day), you can spray on some engine detailer if you want, though I have yet to find any that work well.

 

If you're cleaning in there from the get-go, you should just be able to wipe everything down for the most part... That's all I do, using Windex or 409 degreaser on an old towel. It looks great in there still.

 

I'm in this situation, too....and I do use the dusters alot (I have the two OXO dusters). Quick detailer is my friend, too, but, of course, a full wash is always best. I have an awesome, old-school coin-op place nearby that is the absolute best around....I wash there, do a QD there, clean my wheels there, you name it. Keeping up with your MINIs cleaning needs each day (or more) really helps...my car (although it's outside 24/7) looks way better than most cars around here that park in those nice, cozy garages!!!

 

I do engine details as part of my normal detail. Detailing the MINI engine bay is easy and fast--20 minutes tops. Well unless you count picking insects out of the radiator--that'll add as much time as you need. I don't count that.

The only thing that you really should be careful about when detailing the MINI engine bay is the alternator. You really don't want a flow of water getting in there.

The ECU is well sealed as is just about every other part. Of course you don't want to spray water into the intake either--keep water out of the engine!

I use a 1/2 gallon bug sprayer as my water source. It serves a couple of purposes:

1.) Means I only have that much water to rinse, wash, and rinse --keeps excess grease off my driveway.

2.) Just enough water pressure to dislodge material, without being dangerous to sensitive components.

I use a variety of soft brushes--different shapes and sizes along with a mild degreaser. In my case, it's Meguiar's APC (All Purpose Cleaner diluted 4:1).

I rinse with water, spritz on APC, clean with the brushes, rinse. Dry with a towel.

Dress using Meguiar's Hyperdressing. Spritz it on, wipe it down with a rag, and you're done. The MINI has lots of plastic and rubber areas that are easily cleaned up.

Most important thing, don't use any flammable dressings! I.e., check the flashpoint for the chemicals you apply. Hyperdressing has an extremely high flash point--forget the actual numbers--but it's a good idea to know on any kind of liquid you spray in the engine bay. Engine fires are not fun!

Richard
Fortunately, I live in the Culver City/Marina Del Rey Adjacent known simply as Los Angeles! Seriously, I'm about 5 minutes from the Venice area. So that'd be great!

As for the MINI living outside, a good car cover might be worthwhile, though it would definitely take some getting used to. Putting on a cover while it's windy isn't fun, and you don't want to cover it if it's dirty!

 

hi all -- thanks for the engine cleaning tips. I plan on being VERY careful in there and will probably make sure I wet whatever I use to wipe it down first instead of spraying anything.

OctaneGuy - CulverCity/Marina del Rey is very close! Hopefully I can arrange a trip out there. I miss the beach here in land-locked Tennessee.

Okay... i just saw this short video:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=35682&cat=500&ppuser=27880

this is supposed to be the prep at the VDC... but look at that car wash they send it through!!!!! UGHHH... That looks like brushes and swirl city. Do they really send our Mini's through a car wash?

I'm still going to ask my dealer to keep hands off.