Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain OBX LSD install + tranny bearings.

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  #1  
Old 05-28-2007 | 08:36 PM
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OBX LSD install + tranny bearings.

I'm installing the obx lsd and a new clutch + flywheel surface tonight. I am also freshening up some tranny parts. I would like to replace the transmission shaft bearings, but I'm not sure how to get the old ones out. Has anyone done this before, if so, where did you source the bearings? I'm sure I'll get million opinions at work tommarrow, but I am hoping a nammer has been there before.

I'll be sure to do a write up on the obx after the clutch is broken in. Thanks for the help.
 

Last edited by 002; 06-02-2007 at 12:09 AM.
  #2  
Old 05-28-2007 | 09:21 PM
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Um....were was I reading that the OBX lsd totally disintegrated on a car? Be careful...OBX makes decent exhausts but.....
 
  #3  
Old 05-29-2007 | 12:50 AM
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Before you install OBX LSD you must rebuild it by yourself.
 
  #4  
Old 05-29-2007 | 06:29 AM
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I've heard scary stories about OBX LSD...

I hope yours will be fine! Keep us updated with your feedbacks!
 
  #5  
Old 05-29-2007 | 07:02 PM
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A few nammers say this and post links. I fallowed them (and found some of my own) and the worst thing I read was that early honda versions weren't machined right and the axels were difficult to remove. The closest thing to "desintegrating" I could find was a broken beville spring, and that person had "rebuilt" thier unit to correct the "incorrectly" installed springs. The other bad diff was delivered defective and wasn't used. I've seen more pictures of broken MINI diffs on NAM than I could find broken OBX diffs. If you have a link, please share it, as I couldn't find a legitimately failed OBX diff. Infact, most of the links read like this " those are cheap and suck", "I know a guy that knows a guy and it blew up" and my favorite, "you have to rebuild them and maybe they'll be ok". That one makes me laugh because other than replacing the beville springs, there is nothing to rebuild, no tolerances to check, nothing. Maybe re-torque it, that's it.

Thanks for the concern (seriously), but I'm not expecting much from the obx. Actually, the more I read about it the less concerned I am. If it doesn't work out, no big deal. I thought I would step up and try something new and share it here. I couldn't find anyone using it in a MINI.

Everything is out of the the car and apart now. I'm just trying to decide if I want to replace some of the transmission bearings before putting it back to gether. I am a little impatient right now, so I may just put it back together and do the bearings later. I test fitted the diff and it fits in perfecly, no shimming or clearancing needed.

If there are any pics or specs that people want before I close up the tranny, just ask.
 

Last edited by 002; 05-29-2007 at 08:48 PM.
  #6  
Old 05-29-2007 | 07:17 PM
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I've been waiting for you to install this unit since you mentioned it a while back, thanks very much for trying it out for the rest of us.

Now close that tranny up, put it back in, put the car on the ground, and get some miles on that thing.
 

Last edited by Partsman; 05-29-2007 at 07:22 PM.
  #7  
Old 05-29-2007 | 08:53 PM
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A buddy of mine with an Acura RSX Type S was telling me that he was considering an OBX LSD, which is 1/2 the price of the Quaife it emulates. He sent me the link to the Club RSX forums which details how one person refinished the OBX LSD in this thread.

P.S. 002, in post #56 of the above link, there is a claim of a broken diff. No photographs, though.
 
  #8  
Old 05-29-2007 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by latte hiatus
A buddy of mine with an Acura RSX Type S was telling me that he was considering an OBX LSD, which is 1/2 the price of the Quaife it emulates. He sent me the link to the Club RSX forums which details how one person refinished the OBX LSD in this thread.

P.S. 002, in post #56 of the above link, there is a claim of a broken diff. No photographs, though.
Thanks for the link. That is pretty much how I set mine up. Again, the reference to failure is vague, has no resolution and doesn't really sound like a busted diff based on the breif, if not illiterate complaint. Pretty good lsd explanation and pictures though.

I'm giving up on the bearings for now. I'll take measurements and find them for another time. I should have it together this weekend and I will take it to the drags as soon as I feel the clutch is ready.

I am dying to see how it plays out.

I am in the east bay as well, we should get together and compare cars. Ever go to the drags? I would like to see how similarly modded cars compare, in terms of drive ability and power. Mine is usually rough though, as I never have it in a completed state.
 

Last edited by 002; 05-29-2007 at 09:59 PM.
  #9  
Old 05-29-2007 | 10:03 PM
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There was a link about a broken OBX diff on the Mu...but I'm too lazy and tired to find it
 
  #10  
Old 05-29-2007 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 002

I am in the east bay as well, we should get together and compare cars. Ever go to the drags? I would like to see how similarly modded cars compare, in terms of drive ability and power. Mine is usually rough though, as I never have it in a completed state.
No, I haven't ever been to the drag strip, but lately, I've been catching the Paul Webster bug. I don't know if I would race, but it's definitely something I'd like to check out. Please let me know next time you're headed out to the strip, and I'll meet you there.

Looking forward to your experience with the OBX LSD!
 
  #11  
Old 05-29-2007 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by latte hiatus
No, I haven't ever been to the drag strip, but lately, I've been catching the Paul Webster bug. I don't know if I would race, but it's definitely something I'd like to check out. Please let me know next time you're headed out to the strip, and I'll meet you there.

Looking forward to your experience with the OBX LSD!
It's bracket racing, not really all out competetion. It is low pressure and most of the street sport class is there for an "as seen on tv" experience anyway. It is addicting, especially when you cut a few tenths with each mod. I will pm you the next time I go.
 
  #12  
Old 06-05-2007 | 06:17 PM
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update

I put it back together last weekend, but the new shift cables are for the wrong version. I bought these almost a year ago, so it's too late to return them. I decided to go ahead and get the rest of the parts needed to update the shifter to 05' specs. My cables were very stiff and the reason my shifter was stiff, I had a feeling it wasn't the short shifter. Now I need a new short shifter too, not sure which one yet. It is going to be wierd going back to stock for a while.

...anyway, the OBX went in without any problems. I read one complaint that the diff had to be bored out because the shafts wouldn't fit in after pressing on the bearings. Ah the internet. The bearings went on pretty easily, the bearing spacing between the case was spot on and I was impressed at how well the ring gear fit. I popped the axles in and out a few times to check that complaint, no problem. The only negatives so far have been the somewhat sloppy clean up of machine work and an extra spring washer. I cleaned up the case with a dremel and made sure the parts were assembled correctly.

The shifter parts should be installed in a couple days and a first reveiw posted up this weekend. This will mainly be to see if it even runs.
 
  #13  
Old 06-05-2007 | 06:34 PM
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Just curious..Which clutch assy did you go with?
Thanks,
Jim
 
  #14  
Old 06-05-2007 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jimz68
Just curious..Which clutch assy did you go with?
Thanks,
Jim

I had the the spec stage 2 with thier flywheel. I replaced it with the stage 2+ and a new flywheel surface. The 2+ is dual friction. One side has kevlar (more surface than the stage2) and the other has six (metallic?) pucks. It looks like it will be pretty grabby, but more manageable with the light pedal effort. I haven't been able to drive the car yet, but the pedal effort is much lighter than the stage 2. It is more like the early mini clutches. I did find that the pressure plate to flywheel bolts are too short and had backed out. That explained why it started feeling funny and was worn out. It did last almost 70k miles (spec thought that was pretty good). Combine the aluminum and too few threads and I'm suprised it lasted this long. That may explain a post I saw about the stage 2 burning out shortly after the install.

Haven't driven my mini in 1 1/2 weeks and I'm having withdrawls. Actually I've been driving a friends car (just a pulley) and it has illustrated how far my car has come since I started modding it. It is not a monster, but all the little things add up to a "tuned" feel. Even with the cam, header, flywheel and suspension, I feel my car is more driveable than a stock mcs with a pulley.

Maybe more info than you wanted, but like I said, withdrawls.
 

Last edited by 002; 06-11-2007 at 07:07 PM.
  #15  
Old 06-05-2007 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 002
Thanks for the link. That is pretty much how I set mine up. Again, the reference to failure is vague, has no resolution and doesn't really sound like a busted diff based on the breif, if not illiterate complaint. Pretty good lsd explanation and pictures though.
and my favorite, "you have to rebuild them and maybe they'll be ok". That one makes me laugh because other than replacing the beville springs, there is nothing to rebuild, no tolerances to check, nothing. Maybe re-torque it, that's it.
.


Do you use a spring hub clutch or no?
 
  #16  
Old 06-06-2007 | 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Fisher
.


Do you use a spring hub clutch or no?
yes. The flywheel is solid and about 12.5 pounds. I will also be trying the tranny fluid mix that UUCmotorwerks recommends.
 
  #17  
Old 06-06-2007 | 06:03 AM
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I am thinking to use non spring hub clutch (OEM) on the fidanza flywheel but I am not sure how it will work.

Like the racing one.
 
  #18  
Old 06-06-2007 | 06:38 PM
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Is there something that you are trying to gain from using it or do you just want too try going "all out" for the heck of it? Is it suppose to give you faster reaction, more feed back, etc... I haven't tried it, but if you have an itch, scratch it. You can always replace it.
 
  #19  
Old 06-09-2007 | 08:45 PM
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update

The obx is installed and running. Drove about 40 miles and so far so good. I couldn't do more than mid throttle with the new clutch, but the car already feels better. It tracks much better on rough back roads and steers like it's on rails. Seems to tramline less too. That is amazing in my car as before it could hardly hold line, especially when driving fast with low to mid load. The car felt great. It was very hard to control myself and not throttle it. I drove in some tight circles and no wierd noises or grinding. Infact, it was quieter than stock and less whine while cruising.

On a second note, the stage 2+ clutch has a very light pedal and takes up drive easily. The 05 shift box is much "tighter" than the early unit and the new shift cables made a world of difference. The position of the shifter may have been changed too, I'll have to compare it to my girlfriends stock 03. It appears that the shifter is taller, been moved back and has a wee bit shorter throw. I still need to put a ssk back in though.

I'll hold final judgement and update the thread after the clutch has broken in and I can really drive it.
 
  #20  
Old 06-10-2007 | 08:05 AM
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Thanks for the update! I hope everything works as planned! Your full throttle driving impressions after your clutch is bedded in will be great too!

Jeremy
 
  #21  
Old 06-15-2007 | 07:15 PM
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update

800 miles on it now and everything is broken in and driving smoothly. The LSD is great. No more issues pulling onto the street into traffic. It just pulls, no more drama. I was very suprised the first couple of times how fast the car gets moving when it's not burning out. Full throttle powering out of corners is amazing and clover leafs will make you giggle. I can hear the inside wheel chirping a little, but the car keeps pulling hard and holds a tight line. I should have done this long ago. I only did a couple small burn outs. It takes alot more rpm to light up the tires. I'll have to practice a bit before I hit the drags.
 
  #22  
Old 06-15-2007 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 002
800 miles on it now and everything is broken in and driving smoothly. The LSD is great. No more issues pulling onto the street into traffic. It just pulls, no more drama. I was very suprised the first couple of times how fast the car gets moving when it's not burning out. Full throttle powering out of corners is amazing and clover leafs will make you giggle. I can hear the inside wheel chirping a little, but the car keeps pulling hard and holds a tight line. I should have done this long ago. I only did a couple small burn outs. It takes alot more rpm to light up the tires. I'll have to practice a bit before I hit the drags.
That's great, 002. Thanks for posting. Please keep the updates flowing as you put more miles on it. Sounds like one more thing to add to the list.
 
  #23  
Old 06-16-2007 | 08:45 PM
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I have been doing some burn outs lately. They still light up pretty easily, but at least both tires are working now. I tested it with one side of the car on pavement and the other on dirt. As expected, the pavement side squeeled and pulled me along while the other side created a dust storm. The car pulled perfectly straight. Which reminds that there has not been any extra torque steer as some have described with LSD's. I would say it is less than before.

I really like this thing and I am glad I gave it a try. Definitely worth while if you are a budget modder. That is it for the review, but I will report back if anything goes wrong.
 
  #24  
Old 06-17-2007 | 06:55 AM
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002,

Thanks for sharing your journey.

PS - OBX is always poo poo'ed here at NAM yet there are proabably more OBX headers being used than any other.
 
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Old 06-17-2007 | 08:44 AM
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yeah, ive been watching this thread. I have an obx header and like it. Im looking into an lsd and maybe this will be it.
 


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