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Drivetrain Alta 15% Pulley Install Problems

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  #1  
Old 12-26-2007, 12:44 PM
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Alta 15% Pulley Install Problems

I need some suggestions, as I'm in the middle of what seems to be a never ending nightmare right now on an install of a 15% Alta Version 2 pulley.
Day 1 - installed the pulley and went with NAPA belt reccommended on Alta's site (539 I think). That night on cold start there was belt squeal that went away after engine was warmed up. By the next morning it had gotten much worse at cold start.
Day 2 - Removed pulley and discovered that the pulley hub was not seated all the way against the supercharger - assumed at that time that it was installed incorrectly and that we accidentally torqued it down with it slightly off, thus causing belt squeal because of incorrect alignment. Put Napa belt back on. The next morning we had squeal again, although not as bad. Just at cold start for about 30 seconds to minute on warm up. Once car was warmed up no squeal, even if the car was parked for a few hours and started again. But for a week every morning on cold start there was the damn squeal again. It actually sounded more like a squeak squeak squeak, and not a constant squeal. Called Alta and they said that we should install the factory BMW belt, as there is no need for a smaller belt with the 15% pulley and that too tight a belt could actually be causing the problem.
Day 3 - Installed brand new BMW stock belt - noted that there was not a lot of room left at all for the belt to stretch on the tensioner. On the next day of cold start there was only a barely noticeable squeak - so little that had it stayed like this I wouldn't be worried about it. But by 3 days later it's back again!!!!!! Called Alta and they are sending me a replacement pulley and hub in case there is something wrong with the original to cause it to back off or be misaligned. They also tell me to go with the John Cooper Works belt (I wish they would have told me this the last time) as the factory might be too big . I am also going to pick up from the dealer a brand new belt tensioner in case by some bad luck we damaged the original when it was taken off on one of our 2 installs so far. This should replace every piece that we messed with, so if the belt squeal is there I am at a total loss. Has anyone experienced this before with a pulley install (there was no squeak or squeal at all before the intall, and this is a 2007 Mini Cooper S Convertible with 7,000 miles on it)? Does anyone have any advice or suggestions? I really, really, really don't want to have to do this freaking install for a forth time so please help if you can! Thanks ahead of time!

Chris
 
  #2  
Old 12-26-2007, 12:58 PM
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I installed a gatorback belt on mine, 0 problems
 
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Old 12-26-2007, 04:41 PM
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Did it end up being glazed at all, Chris?

For what it's worth, after Brian Harris installed it and I've had it back, zero problems...535 belt and all. I'm in Cleveland right now and have only had it back a couple of days...I'll check the tensioner hole when I get back (need to install some other new goodies as well).

- Matt

Call me if we end up needing to do it again as far as the pulley install goes. We need your car in good shape if you're showing me the happy roads.

-Edit-

Some forum searching turned up this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ht=belt+squeal

...and see posts 4, 6, and 9 over here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ghlight=060535


And some of my own calculating...yay...

Using this thread here... https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...CW+Pulley+Size...as a start...

Originally Posted by k-huevo
stock 2.565 in.
That's stock pulley size, in diameter. Multiplying by pi, we come to the circumference being ~8.05in; with a 15% reduction (2.18025 diameter), circumference is ~6.85in. A 1.2in difference.

From Napa's site here for stock Cooper S: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...%26+Alternator
Item#:
NBH25060547
Imperial Length:55.276" (1404mm)

From Napa's site, for the 060539: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...t+-+Serpentine
Item#: NBH25060539
Imperial Length:54.521" (1385mm)

From Napa's site, yet again, for the 060535 belt: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...t+-+Serpentine
Item#: NBH25060535
Imperial Length:54.272" (1379mm)


Both seem to meet up nicely with the difference in circumference, I would say. An inch less belt for an inch less circumference. Now, we need to take into account the fact that the belt only wraps around about* 2/3's of the supercharger pulley...that would mean that the belt should be around .8 of an inch smaller or so (using the 1.2in it should be reduced from the above circumference reduction). The belt should then be approximately (assuming the belt covers 2/3rds of the pulley) 54.476in, cold and not under tension. The 060539 is better at first, but take into account stretch under heat. The 060535 might be a better bet when taking this into account. As you can see, either will pretty much work though (the 539 or 535). The stock belt size should not be used though...the numbers above should be proof enough. The supercharger will run, but there will be slippage and/or the tensioner will be out of range.

I've made my opinionated choice though in running the 535.

Hopefully this ends any confusion over belt size as well.

*If anyone can give me a better approximation than 2/3rd's belt wrap on the pulley, give it to me and I'll edit something here.
 

Last edited by verveAbsolut; 12-26-2007 at 06:38 PM. Reason: I took the time to find links! Yay!
  #4  
Old 12-26-2007, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by motogeno
Day 1 - installed the pulley and went with NAPA belt reccommended on Alta's site (539 I think).
Are you sure it was a 060539? I've always had good luck with the Napa 060535.
 
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Old 12-26-2007, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by motogeno
Does anyone have any advice or suggestions? I really, really, really don't want to have to do this freaking install for a forth time so please help if you can! Thanks ahead of time!

Chris
Get rid of the v.2 pulley and use the original self-centering design.
 
  #6  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
Get rid of the v.2 pulley and use the original self-centering design.
Issue free with a reduced belt size, and I've gotthe confidence of knowing others with over 100k mi beig issue free withthe same exact pulley, no need to mess with a good thing.
 
  #7  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by verveAbsolut
Did it end up being glazed at all, Chris?


For what it's worth, after Brian Harris installed it and I've had it back, zero problems...535 belt and all. I'm in Cleveland right now and have only had it back a couple of days...I'll check the tensioner hole when I get back (need to install some other new goodies as well).

- Matt

Call me if we end up needing to do it again as far as the pulley install goes. We need your car in good shape if you're showing me the happy roads.

-Edit-

Some forum searching turned up this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ht=belt+squeal

...and see posts 4, 6, and 9 over here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ghlight=060535


And some of my own calculating...yay...

Using this thread here... https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...CW+Pulley+Size...as a start...



That's stock pulley size, in diameter. Multiplying by pi, we come to the circumference being ~8.05in; with a 15% reduction (2.18025 diameter), circumference is ~6.85in. A 1.2in difference.

From Napa's site here for stock Cooper S: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...%26+Alternator
Item#: NBH25060547
Imperial Length:55.276" (1404mm)

From Napa's site, for the 060539: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...t+-+Serpentine
Item#: NBH25060539
Imperial Length:54.521" (1385mm)

From Napa's site, yet again, for the 060535 belt: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...t+-+Serpentine
Item#: NBH25060535
Imperial Length:54.272" (1379mm)


Both seem to meet up nicely with the difference in circumference, I would say. An inch less belt for an inch less circumference. Now, we need to take into account the fact that the belt only wraps around about* 2/3's of the supercharger pulley...that would mean that the belt should be around .8 of an inch smaller or so (using the 1.2in it should be reduced from the above circumference reduction). The belt should then be approximately (assuming the belt covers 2/3rds of the pulley) 54.476in, cold and not under tension. The 060539 is better at first, but take into account stretch under heat. The 060535 might be a better bet when taking this into account. As you can see, either will pretty much work though (the 539 or 535). The stock belt size should not be used though...the numbers above should be proof enough. The supercharger will run, but there will be slippage and/or the tensioner will be out of range.

I've made my opinionated choice though in running the 535.

Hopefully this ends any confusion over belt size as well.

*If anyone can give me a better approximation than 2/3rd's belt wrap on the pulley, give it to me and I'll edit something here.
Thanks for all of the info Matt - I didn't know you had the dealer do yours already, that's great. I just left there today after talking to Brian, who is I'm sure the guy that did yours over there. We are going to replace the pulley on Monday in the a.m. or by the afternoon for sure - we're getting to be pros at the entire process. We did Christian's last weekend and he hasn't had a problem, but I am starting to think that there is an issue with the pulley itself backing off or being misaligned. I think I will replace the tensioner as well just to be safe, because I really really don't want to have to keep doing this lol! I think you are right about the belt size - I was just trying to do what Alta was recommending so that they couldn't say that I did something to mess this up. I'm going to get the JCW belt from Brian Harris as that should be very close to the stock size and I wasn't real happy with the NAPA belts grip (although this is just an opinion based on how it felt with my bare hands and I have no proof that there was slipping of that belt besides the squeak at cold start idle).
 
  #8  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
Get rid of the v.2 pulley and use the original self-centering design.
Why? When installed correctly and using the correct belt length [like verveAbsolut mentioned above], I see no reason the V.2 would have issues.

My advice for the OP is to PAY ATTENTION; you installed it wrong the first time; read the directions and seat everything fully bottomed out on an oil/gunk free supercharger shaft as they're designed. Use a NAPA 060535, the 060539 is too long enough after initial stretching.
 

Last edited by Ryephile; 12-26-2007 at 08:28 PM. Reason: oops!
  #9  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:21 PM
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You mean too long, right Ryephile? Just clarifying.
 
  #10  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by motogeno
We did Christian's last weekend and he hasn't had a problem, but I am starting to think that there is an issue with the pulley itself backing off or being misaligned. I think I will replace the tensioner as well just to be safe, because I really really don't want to have to keep doing this lol! I think you are right about the belt size - I was just trying to do what Alta was recommending so that they couldn't say that I did something to mess this up. I'm going to get the JCW belt from Brian Harris as that should be very close to the stock size and I wasn't real happy with the NAPA belts grip (although this is just an opinion based on how it felt with my bare hands and I have no proof that there was slipping of that belt besides the squeak at cold start idle).
Getting to be high speed at this install shiz, but for all the wrong reasons. At least Brian Harris's total comes to $327 (includes tax, no parts) for the install, so not too terrible. See if they can just do the pulley install before you get a new tensioner through them. You can isolate whether the install/pulley was the problem then. If not (tensioner is an issue), GTT makes a replacement tensioner with a built in stop, if I remember correctly.

If you didn't like NAPA's, try Gatorback...I think the right end number will be 537. They evidently make a little more noise, but Msfitoy and some other heavy modders like them. I still worry about using the JCW belt w/ a 15% as the JCW pulley is only an 11% reduction (see the quoted thread from earlier for its diameters).

If you decide to have them replace the tensioner as well and don't go with GTT (not sure if you have time to order and have it shipped), you could also see about getting one of the belt tensioner stops from Detroit Tuned or Minspeed...one thing I regret not having done at the same time. That way if the belt shreds for whatever reason, no worry about damage to either the tensioner or pulleys. I'll probably just install it separately at a later time, as the only reason the engine needs to be lifted for anything on that side is if your tools won't fit in there. Pulling the wheel well liner and plastic skidguard thinger should give enough room to access the tensioner from below.

- Matt
 

Last edited by verveAbsolut; 12-26-2007 at 08:33 PM. Reason: I am forever editing. My thoughts are never done.
  #11  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RedSkunk
You mean too long, right Ryephile? Just clarifying.
Yes, oops! Thanks for actually reading! I edited my post.

060539 - too long for 15% pulley
060535 - perfect for 15% pulley
 
  #12  
Old 12-26-2007, 10:20 PM
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Here is an issue I experienced with the V2 and I’ve read of a few others encountering the same. Notice the space in the gap underneath the end stop.


Because the lower pinch bolt can’t be accessed to apply torque if the hub base is fully seated, it won’t allow the hub to go all the way on the shaft, the pulley will misalign by a groove and a half in relation to crankshaft and alternator pulleys. It doesn’t happen with every install, but it does with a few; I haven’t had this issue with any V1 install.
 
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:30 PM
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"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" seems appropriate here

Alta V1 15% FTMFROTFLW!
 
  #14  
Old 12-26-2007, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by k-huevo
Here is an issue I experienced with the V2 and I’ve read of a few others encountering the same. Notice the space in the gap underneath the end stop.


Because the lower pinch bolt can’t be accessed to apply torque if the hub base is fully seated, it won’t allow the hub to go all the way on the shaft, the pulley will misalign by a groove and a half in relation to crankshaft and alternator pulleys. It doesn’t happen with every install, but it does with a few; I haven’t had this issue with any V1 install.
Wow! That's exactly what seemed to have happened on the first install. On the second install we applied pressure to the hub as we torqued to try to avoid this - can't tell you that we were successful, but it seemed that we were. I suppose that this could have happened again - so what's the fix for this? Alta is sending me a new V2 with a new hub and bolts (I'm not paying for another pulley). And how can this happen on some and not all(wouldn't everyone have the same issues?)? And I do believe that the stock belt is too long as the tensioner isn't showing the hole at all right now - I'm almost afraid to drive it, but how can Alta recommend the stock belt? The information from vendor to vendor and NAM poster to Nam poster seems to vary so much that it's really hard to figure out what the right answer is.
 
  #15  
Old 12-26-2007, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by motogeno
Wow! That's exactly what seemed to have happened on the first install. On the second install we applied pressure to the hub as we torqued to try to avoid this - can't tell you that we were successful, but it seemed that we were. I suppose that this could have happened again - so what's the fix for this? Alta is sending me a new V2 with a new hub and bolts (I'm not paying for another pulley). And how can this happen on some and not all(wouldn't everyone have the same issues?)? And I do believe that the stock belt is too long as the tensioner isn't showing the hole at all right now - I'm almost afraid to drive it, but how can Alta recommend the stock belt?

I do have to say that does look like what happened. k-huevo is absolutely wonderful at pulling up specific, demonstrable, objective data on issues; I often try to use him as a style imitation when I post on a topic. I have no idea what this would happen on some and not on all...my best guess would be to claim "manufacturing tolerances."

Originally Posted by motogeno
The information from vendor to vendor and NAM poster to Nam poster seems to vary so much that it's really hard to figure out what the right answer is.
One of my absolutely biggest complaints about these boards. I think k-huevo himself debunked the JCW reduction size myth (that I myself had believed at one point) only after it had propagated for years.

There needs to be a sticky linking to threads containing definitive, objective information.

Rant over, that looks like it could be the problem. You know I went with the classic (I always had concerns over construction material), so I'm not sure if I can help much else .

- Matt
 

Last edited by verveAbsolut; 12-26-2007 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by verveAbsolut
Getting to be high speed at this install shiz, but for all the wrong reasons. At least Brian Harris's total comes to $327 (includes tax, no parts) for the install, so not too terrible. See if they can just do the pulley install before you get a new tensioner through them. You can isolate whether the install/pulley was the problem then. If not (tensioner is an issue), GTT makes a replacement tensioner with a built in stop, if I remember correctly.

If you didn't like NAPA's, try Gatorback...I think the right end number will be 537. They evidently make a little more noise, but Msfitoy and some other heavy modders like them. I still worry about using the JCW belt w/ a 15% as the JCW pulley is only an 11% reduction (see the quoted thread from earlier for its diameters).

If you decide to have them replace the tensioner as well and don't go with GTT (not sure if you have time to order and have it shipped), you could also see about getting one of the belt tensioner stops from Detroit Tuned or Minspeed...one thing I regret not having done at the same time. That way if the belt shreds for whatever reason, no worry about damage to either the tensioner or pulleys. I'll probably just install it separately at a later time, as the only reason the engine needs to be lifted for anything on that side is if your tools won't fit in there. Pulling the wheel well liner and plastic skidguard thinger should give enough room to access the tensioner from below.

- Matt
I would have gladly forked over the $300.00 had I not invited all of you guys over for the install . My car ended up being the guinea pig unfortunately. Christian's seems to be running great. No squeaks. Now I've got so much time invested in the damn thing, and taking it to the dealer only solves install time for the pulley at this point as either way if it's not the pulley I'll still be paying them for diagnosing the problem. If my install on Monday doesn't fix it then I give up, and it goes to the dealer - I can't really wait two weeks anyway with the belt that's on it. If I call tomorrow and can get squeezed in for early next week then I'll let Brian do it. Otherwise we'll be diving in on Monday. Keep the advice coming as I need it!
 
  #17  
Old 12-26-2007, 11:02 PM
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Several here on NAM have posted to the effect "How can ALTA be wrong?"...many seem to have tried the shorter belt with success...and the original style pulley....for the record, I have an Alta V1 15% pulley, Alta CAI and Alta V1 IC...never had any issues with these parts
 
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HighLife4136
Several here on NAM have posted to the effect "How can ALTA be wrong?"...many seem to have tried the shorter belt with success...and the original style pulley....for the record, I have an Alta V1 15% pulley, Alta CAI and Alta V1 IC...never had any issues with these parts
Well I'm not understanding the point of the first part of your post, I agree with not broke don't fix it, even said something to the same effect earlier in this thread. But there is adistinct difference between V1 and V2 ICs as far as preformance, with the V1 and V2 pulleys it's two ways to accomplish the same task.
 
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Old 12-27-2007, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Motor On
Well I'm not understanding the point of the first part of your post, I agree with not broke don't fix it, even said something to the same effect earlier in this thread. But there is adistinct difference between V1 and V2 ICs as far as preformance, with the V1 and V2 pulleys it's two ways to accomplish the same task.
...Yeah, wasn't too clear... The first part of the post was in regards to the belt size. As far as the pulley goes, you are very correct but I still lean towards the if it ain't broke part....the V2 pulley is mostly marketing to freshen up the product IMHO. As far as the IC goes, show me your wind tunnel results and you'll have me sold
 
  #20  
Old 12-27-2007, 08:54 AM
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To be honest, V1 or V2 doesn't make a difference to me as long as they both work properly - right now I'm not concerned about wind tunnels, dynos, or 1/4 mile times, I'm concerned with why upon installing according to the directions and torquing to the proper specs does my belt squeak on cold start when the two other pulleys done (one by me) by guys in my area don't have problems?
 
  #21  
Old 12-27-2007, 09:12 AM
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When I put my Alta v2 pulley on about a year ago, the belt squeaked. It was a smaller than stock size. I replaced it the next day with a Napa belt...I forget sizes, but it was the recommended size on the instructions, as was the first belt i think. Maybe belt quality has something to do with it. The first belt was a Duralast brand, kind of a cheap mark but all the autoparts store had.

I've had 9,900 miles of s/c trouble free driving since. I only replaced the belt once due to oil contamination.
 
  #22  
Old 12-27-2007, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by k-huevo
It's no-good to use the included ALTA allen wrench, as k-huevo shows why. Use a ball-tip allen wrench instead; then you can fully seat the hub and apply proper torque. Taa-daa!
 
  #23  
Old 12-27-2007, 10:05 AM
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I couldn’t get a ball end in there when fully seated; a notch on the case neck would have allowed it to go, but here was another issue, contact with the shaft seal protector/retainer when pushed all the way; it would bind enough to cause drag. The compromise was half the gap shown, still a risk of miss alignment.
 
  #24  
Old 12-27-2007, 12:11 PM
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hmmm, interesting. I took another look at your picture there, and it looks nothing of when I installed my V.2 pulley. The retainer lip on the pulley hub bottomed out as intended on mine, and a ball-end allen wrench fit just fine. When it was seated and torqued it spun freely, no rubbing on the s/c seal. Your pulley hub looks to have different dimensions. Did ALTA update their design? I just got mine earlier this month.
 
  #25  
Old 12-27-2007, 12:30 PM
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Wow, this is making me think the V1 might be the way to go. I'm still really surprised Alta changed the design, and an engineer I prefer the collet style design for even radial pressure though it is a little harder to machine.
 


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