Ok, I have been wondering for a while. How do the piston oil squirters work? Is it a function of the block, or of the top?

I'm wondering if the top of the engine could just be swapped for the top of the cooper S engine, and does anyone know where to look up factory prices on that kind of stuff.

If a turbo kit came out that seemed to have real build quality behind it, I would be very interested, but want to make sure the motor can handle it first. Would anything besides oils squirters have a huge effect on how much boost the engine could take up to a small limit (say 200 hp).

Also, does anyone know what most people do to their ecu's when they turbo charge a naturally aspirated vehicle? Is it possible for the ecu to automatically compensate (but obviously reprogramming it would get better gains). From what I understand most people that turbo a stock engine simply run very rich.

I know thats a lot of questions, anyone willing to take the time to give a thought out reply would be very appreciated. :smile:

 

No help?

to make it clear I have a MC, and was referring to the piston oil squireters of the MCS engine, and swapping parts from the MCS engine to the MC.

 

Oil squirters are not a new technology. They have been used in diesel engines for years. Basically they are small nozzles tapped into the oil galleries in the block that spray oil up into the piston from below. This has the effect of cooling down the piston crown from below. Diesel and supercharged engines put a particularly high heat load (strain) on pistons, and adding oil cooling nozzles helps prolong the piston life by keeping them cooler and also bringing a bit more oil to the piston pin and cylinder. So it's the block that provides the nozzles, not the head.

For your application of turbocharging a Cooper and wanting the piston cooling setup, you would be best served by getting a Cooper S shortblock. This has the benefit of the lower compression pistons (turbocharging a 10:1 CR engine is NOT a good idea) as well as the forged crank and connecting rods, the better oil pump, and the nozzles. All of these make for an engine that can take the turbo upgrade to it's highest potential.

Anyone who is serious about turbocharging what was a naturally aspirated engine would go thgout the motions of upgrading the UCU, the injectors, the cooling system, and the drivetrain. Some factory ECUs for natually aspirated engines are at a loss when boost is added, where some actually see the increased manifold pressure and compensate for it somewhat, though this ends up being more a function of the fuel regulator. Some factory setups (say in a truck where someone adds an aftermarket blower) need some 'help' in the form of a chip upgrade or add-on controller to keep the ECU from freaking out and shutting everything down.

In short, trying to add more than a couple pounds of boost to a stock-type naturally aspirated engine needs to be followed up with some additional upgrades, which get more numerous and intense as your power levels are to increase.

Hope this sheds some light on your situation!

Cheers!