Please go get your code read. Take it to a Checker or Autozone. They will read it for free.Post us the code and we can help you.
Also pick up some MAF cleaner and clean your sensor.
Also check your boost tubes.

 

How long is it on?


Yes, I see.

 

I was skeptical because like you I realize that the stock setup is funnelling this hot compressed air back into the intake... which is NOT very efficient...

 

ive had mine for 2-3 months. i noticed small things. -1 mpg. it felt like i built up boost faster and easier.. but at the same time i felt it built up less.

 

Seriously, Autozone has the means to read codes on Minis?. Thanks for the advice. You know now that you mention it, I did just add Altas boost tubes around the same time, and I had a hell of a time getting the rear one connected to the throttle body. I couldn't see what I was doing, so I had to feel around in a tight space, my hand barely fit. For all I know, I could've connected the tube to God knows what, and tightning the clamp was next to impossible.

I couldn't get under the car, so I did everything top side. I will definately check the connections on those parts as well. Thanks for the input. I will get those codes and get back to you.

 

When you say, 1 mpg,do you mean a loss of, or increase in gas milage? I felt the same thing with the boost.

 

I purchased my forge BOV through North American Motoring, ask for Nick Wagner, he's most helpful. When you order the part, it includes instructions.
I admit the instructions are very basic. It will give you a picture or two that probably won't make much sense to you unless you've taken a few things apart previously to add other upgrades.

It's easy though.
1). Remove the turbo inlet hose, at least at the turbo end.
2).When you move it out of your way, just beneth it is a triangular shaped part with an electrical connection.
3). Disconnect the connection.
4). There are three allen head screws, 6mm I believe. Remove them. One of them is a little tough to get to.
5). Once you've removed the recirc valve, place the BOV in it's place.
6). Reinstall the recirc over the BOV. Make sure the holes all line up, you will know when you reinstall the newer, longer screws included with the BOV.
There are no gaskets, the BOV and the recirc both have O-rings to seal them.
7). Plug the recirc back in, and hook up the inlet hose, start her up and she'll whisper to ya. Good luck, and happy motoring!

 

Are you having reasonably good luck with yours so far? Do you know anything about the Alta version? I heard it's a bit more involved to install. I like Alta products, I've installed enough of them, but Forge has been producing performance parts a bit longer, so they have a proven track record. As soon as I read the code and straighten out the engine light, I plan on reinstalling mine.
I also installed Altas boost tube set up. If for any reason I was unable to tighten the clamp around the throttle body sufficient enough, do you know if whether or not the circulation system was incomplete, if the car would run at all, or would it have the same effect I'm having now. Let me know if you know the answer.

 

Oy...why you guys insist on having BOV's is really beyond me....

 

^^^
agreed. A bov on a stock car is actually not a good idea. It messes up the ECUs calculations because the air is lost instead of recirculated.

 

Are you saying that you have less power with the BOV?

 

I don't currently have one... but my SRT-4 had the MOPAR equivalent of the FORGE unit... it had the same design where it sat between the recirulation valve and simply vented to atmosphere as opposed to back into the intake...

I haven't added it to the MCS yet because I haven't gotten around to it... and I am cheap/poor (House hunting)

 

Can you prove that it dumps the recirculated air back into the intake track BEFORE or AFTER the MAF sensor? (Serious question as I sure don't know)

the answer to that questions would either prove you completely right or wrong...

 

My friend, Bov's are not just for the cool sound they make. They are functional as well. I'm sure it's not just the Mini cars, but turbos in the newer cars all recirculate the air as a way to decrease turbo lag ( the momentary loss in power as the turbo builds pressure/boost.) That's a great concept, problem is, the air that is recirculated has been heated. Cold air is what's needed to better atomize the Mixture (fuel/air) for power. A BOV allows the hot recirc'd air to be blown off into the atmosphere. This also helps prolong the life of the turbo, by keeping the thermo temp down, and built up pressures(excessive pressures) a turbo creates.
I've been told by a BMW tech at Turner Motor sport, that these cars do not like to have thier air dumped. In the same sentence, he exclaimed that the car was still too new to really know much about them.
Go to www.namotorsports.net click on the forced induction on the left hand side. There you will find the Forge BOV and all the info on how it works on the Mini.

 

So... you're trading boost lag for a marginal decrease in IAT's? I didn't see very high IAT's when I data logged a stock R56...

10-12 degrees above ambient, not sure how much better it gets, what would you gain if it was 5 degrees above ambient? 1 HP? 2? Not worth any boost lag in my mind.

I don't know much about BOV's, but even if it gained 20 HP, I think they sound silly. Way too boy racer for me, so I'd never install one (Even if that was possible on an R53).

 

Ghosthound is correct. The concept of it's function has merit, but I think the description was used as a marketing ploy here. I believe the turbo R56 Mini is still too new to really know what will benefit the car as far as increasing the cars' performance. There are a select few out there such as myself, who are willing to istall these upgrades in order to better educate those interested in purchasing these upgrades. For example, My next upgrade will be the AEM water/ methanol injection system. Supossedly, it helps keep charge temps down. I've read that the larger intercooler is not necessary, unless you go larger on the turbo. I may be wrong here, but it may help to increase the cooling of that heat'd recirculated air. If you do go larger, I recommend the M7 FMIC (front mount'd intercooler). The reason being, they installed two bungs in the end tanks. One is for a boost gauge, I plan to use the other one for a shot of Co2.

 

Shot of Co2? Why would you shoot Co2 into the intake stream on your IC!

 

Exactly what I was thinking. If you use Co2 on your intercooler you should spray it from the front, not into the intake. Nitrous would work A LOT better for what you want to do.

 

The BOV dumps the air into the atmosphere...The recirc valve (factory installed) recirc's the heated air back through the intake side of the system. If you could see a schematic lay-out of the rear boost tube, the one that connects to the throttle body. Well off that tube it branches off, shaped like a "Y", I believe that is the section that recirc's the air. As to how that air has been heated, especially seeing as how that is the tube receiving the just cooled air from the intercooler, is beyond me.

 

1). I already have to drill a hole in the hard tube of the rear boost tube for the injector (spray nozzle). Having a bung in the end tank of the IC helps to elliminate the need to drill a 2nd hole in the same tube for another sprayer nozzle.
Remember, the cooler the intake charge is, the more power you will gain, Co2 will most definately cool that incoming air.
TEST: Get yourself a can of compressed air from Staples, the kind used to clean your computer keyboard. Turn it upside down and spray it. When you do you'll see how cold it is.
Check out Cryo2 systems. They use an aluminum tubing with holes drilled in it that goes infront of the IC, that sprays over the surface. I've been told it's more effective to spray it directly into the cooler. I will test this theory out, and inform you as to my findings.

 

We have a real engineer on our hands here ....

Yea.............let us know how that goes..... Might want to do some research on properties of gas and combustion before you do that...

 

Hmm... well. I'm not sure if I understand what you're trying to do here. Definitely have NO idea who told you that...

Yes, spraying Co2, o2, No2, or pretty much any other compressed gas ON the IC will cool your intake charge (Very cold). Spraying co2 INTO your intercooler (Causing Co2 ingestion into the engine) is VERY BAD!

By spraying Co2 into the intake, you're offsetting the o2 molecules of the intake charge with Co2 (non-combustible). In fact one of the issues with Co2 sprayers is that you can ingest it into the intake when you spray it if it's not set up properly, which causes the car to effectively fall flat on its face!

I'm sure everyone appreciates your interest in testing stuff like this out, but please, do NOT spray Co2 into your intake!!!

 

It's the kinder, gentler Rustyboy.....

 

I'm cute and cuddly too!