Mynes, with a Mynes tune.

 

To the OP and all others that ask opinions on what hp they think they have with XXX mods. It varies. A lot. There's really no way to tell unless you get on a dyno.

I "thought" I had around 185/190whp with 15%/ Intake / Header / Exhaust / JCW flash + other misc things.

Guess what? I had 173whp.

With a custom dyno tune I am up to 195whp. Now I have a set of JCW 380 injectors and Jan's cam sitting on my desk for the next time I have some disposable cash available for the install and re-tune to see if I can get over the 200whp hump.

Anyhoo, the point that I'm trying to get across is that you need to know what you have before trying to find what you need to do to get to where you want. (say that out loud three times really quickly)

Pretty logical actually.

 

where can i go to get my mini custom dyno tuned? I live in central pennsylvania but am willing to go a couple of hours to get this done

 

Do a search in the Forums. Jan has been touring the country now for almost a year tuning cars. Just go through a few pages of the Drivetrain Cooper S forum and you're bound to find some info.

 

from all the dynos I have see for stock mcs the average is 150 whp, with pulley, 175whp.
I can't imagine how to get the extra 25hp (and at wheels) with exaust CAI header... at 6950rpm.
then with a tune is another story because to know the real gain you have to test the stock car with the custom tune at 7200rpm.
like rustyboy155 said, the only thing that gives real gains with easy mods (with real I mean all over the rpm range, and not at 7000rpm) is the pulley

 

from all the dynos I have see for stock mcs the average is 150 whp, with pulley, 175whp.
I can't imagine how to get the extra 25hp (and at wheels) with exaust CAI header... at 6950rpm.
then with a tune is another story because to know the real gain you have to test the stock car with the custom tune at 7200rpm.
like rustyboy155 said, the only thing that gives real gains with easy mods (with real I mean all over the rpm range, and not at 7000rpm) is the pulley

 

There are tons of variances with these cars. You're correct, most cars dyno around 150-155 stock. There are plenty of cars out there that dyno at 160, or even 165 stock though.

On average, with a pulley, quality intake, quality header, and catback, tuned, I see cars dynoing from 190-210 wHP.

 

yes, but because the rev limiter goin from 6950 to 7200.
will be great to know how much whp can give a mcs without pulley intake and all that at 7200rpm, I'm sure will be over 170hp

 

Actually most of the gains come from timing and fueling changes. RPM bumps aren't as beneficial as you'd think. I actually made almost the same amount of power at 7300 RPM's as I did at 8200 RPM's, the only reason I reved that high was because it allowed me to stay in one gear rather than shifting up and wasting a shift on the track.

 

If you can get a tune... then make a mod and need another tune? then why not do the mods you want.. or think you want, and then TUNE as the last of the bolt ons!! Tunes are pretty expensive ( yet dollar for HP is good), the issues are finding a guy TO tune.. or chase Jan all over the country!! And then the new mod.. finding the same tuner to do it again!! Or when you hit a mark.. you will be happy and stay there?? LOL dont think so!! LOL

I have built a lot of 7500 rpm SBF and they rock.. the down side of rpm is the bearing life goes as fast as the rpm!! Not to mention the valve train ect..ect!! SO, this engine is a 6800 rpm max boosted runner!! better life on all the components.. blower/ bearings/ valve train ect.. there are always faster guys out there, yes!! With out the tune.. most are stuck in the 180-190 WHP range, and the next mod should be a HEAD!! then with the bolt ons finished.. seek out the tuner!! yes?? Some tuners are claiming ( well actually the receivers of the tune) as much as 50 HP!! Now add that to the 225-230 your at with a Head .... you making great HP on a realistic ( street some time track) engine combo!!

Or with the Head on.. get a soft tune for A/F and then add the Nitrous!! The Idea that you are going to scatter your engine on the bottle is all 80's talk!! N.O.S. is safe as the installer.. short cut the system.. you deserve to scatter!! yes!!

Looking at numbers... 180-190 bolt ons less Head! 200- 230 with Head no tune! + 40-50 for tune and your running a solid creaming 240-280 WHP!!

Or.. 200-230 with head, soft tune for A/F, then add NOS and you can be in the same if not higher HP, that is useable when you want it.. or the tires will hold!! 250-300 HP and all on the stock short block!! ( and less money!!) and revs low enough to save bearing life!! Cool?

Dont forget front wheel cars sux when trying to hook up!! the bottle allows you to power in 3rd or 4th when tire spin is no longer an issue!! Yeah.. on the track it will hurt.. but for a 90% dailey driver it will rock!! Just a thought!!

SOOOoo.... bolt ons to 190 WHP!
HEAD!
Soft tune or TUNE
or NOS!!

But hey this is ...

Just me.......................................

Thumper

 

No one really mentioned a cam upgrade... Wouldn't that give you about 10 whp or so? That might be the mod for you.

 

To quote the following genius:

I guess it got lost within all the blah

 

I saw that but it wasn't exactly a direct suggestion. I thought it would have been on most peoples lists. Why don't more people get cam upgrades before header, or something like that? Im curious because in a year or two I'm planning on doing it.

 

I think that most mini modders out there will exhaust (no pun intended) all easier bolt-on options before going to change something in the cylinder head. DIY modders would probably try a cam exchange earlier on in the process. To be honest, I think a 10hp gain from a cam is kinda on the high side with these cars; although I think Jan's is somewhere around that, but it has only recently become available so the previous cams were low on the $/hp scale of mods. (considering additional install costs)

 

wrong.

202 hp (would have been higher with proper plugs?), stock rpm,~$1500 (= supertrapp, 15%, obx, 380s, jan tune):



by buttometer, about total gain over stock approximately equally divided amongst pulley, header + injectors, jan tune.

 

^^^So your "wrong." is implying that a tune is just as effective as a pulley in terms of gains with easy mods? A little more info pls.

 

check the sig guys!

 

yes.

and note how i gained hp and torque across the whole rpm range, which is what i want instead of peak hp at the expense of low-mid range punch. i don't race; i drive on the street and want a nice even pull from 3000 to the stock redline. this is why i went with the 4-2-1 header and told jan not to raise the rpm limit and to try to get me that nice even gain across the whole rpm band.

signed,
flyboy of few words

 

Yeah that tq curve is very pretty indeed!

 

I agree about the tuning.

At what point is it necessary to get a tune done? In other words, after what mods should it be done? After you need injectors? But at what point do you need injectors? I am very curious, so someone please enlighten me!

 

This is MY point!! After you are finished with the power mods.. ie: Head!! Then if the a/f is too lean ( and it WILL be marginal) then the tune is great!! ORRrrr.. got money and want the tune now.. then go for it!! Me?? I will wait till the mods are done/ A/F is established/ The need for larger injectors.. then Tune!!

Right now I have only my Ported HEAD.. 15% .. CAI.. and W/M system. here is a shot of my dyno ( if I can load the sucker..) at 205 WHP !! STOCK 06 MCS tune/cam/exhaust/inj.. blah blah.. I am sure there is more in there with a better A/F( soft tune) , camshaft .. ect.. THEN I'll "Tune"!!

Hope this helps!! Also I didnt build 181 Tq.. but at the flat curve and max of 175 tq its close ,yes??

Just me.................................

Thumper

 

^^^ looks pretty good to me!