Drivetrain CV Boot Replacement
#1
CV Boot Replacement
I've got a small crack in the outboard boot, and really don't want to pay $500+ for a new axle assembly, since both ends are pretty clean, and the car only has 34k on it. The shaft comes out easily enough, but can anyone tell me how to easily get one of the CV joints off the end to slide the new boots on?
Thanks for any help that anyone can provide.
Thanks for any help that anyone can provide.
#2
from experience of trying to fix this myself... i can tell you that what ever you save buying the boot sepparatly and installing it will be null when you try to pull the cv joint apart to get the boot through the shaft.
There is a reason bmw just opts to replace the entire axle when this problem arises... and it's totally labor hours driven. This job is a real pisser... i'd say it's about a 9/10 on annoying and needlessly difficult install scale.
There is a reason bmw just opts to replace the entire axle when this problem arises... and it's totally labor hours driven. This job is a real pisser... i'd say it's about a 9/10 on annoying and needlessly difficult install scale.
#3
I've replaced mine acouple of times, not that bad really. You can get the "repair kit" form any MINI dealer (or classic Mini) for around $50. The outer "kit" comes with a new outer boot, clamps grease, and inner clamps, and grease (no inner boot). To replace the outer boot you have to remove the inner one too. I usually buy both boots and replace both since I'm there anyway.
It not that hard, I just followed the Haynes manual. The only tricky part is getting the axle out of the inner joint, its just a c clip, and an extra pair of hands, a hammer, and a 2x4 do the trick. Also make sure you note the placment of the clamps, and get a pair of clamp pliers (cant think of the name right now) so you can get those clamps plenty tight. Oh and make sure that you get the correct grease in the correct joint (cv joint grease in outer, and ...... (forgot again, lighter gray grease) in the inner joint (kit comes w/ both).
Good luck,
Nik
It not that hard, I just followed the Haynes manual. The only tricky part is getting the axle out of the inner joint, its just a c clip, and an extra pair of hands, a hammer, and a 2x4 do the trick. Also make sure you note the placment of the clamps, and get a pair of clamp pliers (cant think of the name right now) so you can get those clamps plenty tight. Oh and make sure that you get the correct grease in the correct joint (cv joint grease in outer, and ...... (forgot again, lighter gray grease) in the inner joint (kit comes w/ both).
Good luck,
Nik
#4
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Join Date: May 2004
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CV Boot Replacement
Just a note on a quick fix I did to my boot.
I had poked a small hole in the boot when replacing the A-arm rubber bushing. I spread oil all over the underside of the car, a real mess. I was quoted around $300 dollars in labor so I thought "hey, it's rubber, maybe a tire patch will work". Well, it doesn't . At least the rubber cement that comes with the kit doesn't work, but RTV with the rubber tire patch works great . I patched mine about 4 months ago and had a track day in between and it has held up perfectly. You must get all the grease and oil off. I cleaned the boot with a paint prep solution (Tolulene sp?). Use something that will not attack or dry out the rubber. Allow the RTV to fully cure before driving.
I had poked a small hole in the boot when replacing the A-arm rubber bushing. I spread oil all over the underside of the car, a real mess. I was quoted around $300 dollars in labor so I thought "hey, it's rubber, maybe a tire patch will work". Well, it doesn't . At least the rubber cement that comes with the kit doesn't work, but RTV with the rubber tire patch works great . I patched mine about 4 months ago and had a track day in between and it has held up perfectly. You must get all the grease and oil off. I cleaned the boot with a paint prep solution (Tolulene sp?). Use something that will not attack or dry out the rubber. Allow the RTV to fully cure before driving.
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