I started working on the mini section on our site. I still have to put up better pictures of the product etc but some prices with options are listed.

http://www.exhaustdepot.net/minicooper.html

 

Thats a awesome price for an turbo back exhaust I was just wondering could you guys make just a simple catback exhuast that doesn't require welding?

 

its a cat-back. Is there alot of drone?

 

What is the price difference between aluminized and stainless?

 

I cant because I dont have the tooling to make this funky connection (left). Also if I did have it, i dont have the tooling to make that downpipe connection so close to a bend. I need atleast 3" of straight piping for my machine to grab on so it can make a flare. Regardless your looking at what a muffler shop will charge you to make one for you out of crush bent piping and its not flanged!

 

This is what I got from Jose, he posted it in the other thread. Remember, i can toss a resonator in there too, this is feedback for the 3".

"As far as I´ve driven, the de-catted version drones a bit at around 3,500 rpm. We have not heard any drone so far from the catted car. Also keep in mind that on the auto cars the rpm´s are lower than manuals at 6 gear cruising speeds so they will usually have less drone at highway speeds...specially at 75ish or so. "

 

The muffler and tip are stainless. Your looking at $150 as of now for polished stainless last time i checked. You would not believe how much stainless has gone up and steel in general! 4 months ago i paid $300 for a 4x8 sheet of 3/8 MILD steel. This month it cost me $288 for a 4x4! STAINLess 4x8 was $3000, im afraid to see what the sheet cost now !

 

The easy way to do it would be to flare the catback side to match the DP put a donut gasket in between and use a pair of two bolt flanges to keep it together.

 

That would work only if there was a flange on the end of the downpipe but there is not. Also i cant make a DP with a flare and flange on it because there is no material for me to grab with my tooling, i cant grab an actual bend.

 

Yea I can see that being a problem on a production level. What I did was cut a flange in half, weld two tabs on each side and bolt it back together around the DP.

 

IM always hitting my guys on the head when they making a production piece which they can easily do but the customer in another state cant.


Right after the *Smack, im rick james *****!* i follow with a "does the customer have a welder at their house?"

 

Here is the downpipe with out a cat. Ill be putting it up on the site tonight.

 

"resonator...requires removal of lower cross plate"

Are you referring to the black stamped steel structural brace that is fastened with 6 bolts across the exhaust tunnel?

 

That is a structural brace?

Hmm, I've been running without it for a while. I guess I should put it back on then....

 

That was entered in error. We have enough space to put a resonator with out having to remove the plate.That plate is not structual, it serves two purposes, provides less flex on a turn (like a strut tower bar) and on RWD vehicles, it prevents the car from flipping over if the drive shaft was to break at the trany.

 

What have you think about an O2 Sim for this downpipe???

HAve you a product that remove totally the problem of the CEL???

 

IM still working on a cel fix for the non catted setup. An o2 sim might work but I dont have the time to solder up bread boards.

 

So, what is the difference other than SS costs $150 more than the aluminium? Does the aluminium rust faster or is SS just purely for the shiny factor, etc? I'm thinking about about the 3in. Cat-back. Whe at will happen if I cut off the second CAT will I blow cels or anything?

 

Stainless has noticably better thermal characteristics, in that exhaust heat-energy stays within the exhaust pipe more than mild steel instead of radiating out the walls into the car/engine bay/exhaust tunnel. There's a reason Formula 1 cars run Inconnel, which is basically a special version of stainless steel. Stainless will also last much longer than a mild steel setup, even one that is aluminized. All factory car exhausts that I can think of are at least 409 stainless steel, including the MINI. Going to a mild steel setup is certainly valid in terms of being value-concious, however you will want to avoid driving in the rust-belt states!


So by less flex, you mean to say it is a structural brace?

 

Ic. I'm debating between this (in SS) and the alta one. I have the money for either + install

 

Aluminized steel is mild steel dipped in aluminum. It sounds better than stainless and has less of a tingy sound. Stainless is at a higher risk of cracking because it has a higher expansion rate. 321 stainless and inconel however have less of a tendency to expand like 304.

Most exhaust systems have aluminized mufflers.

 

For me structural is something that is part of the frame like a beam in your house. Your car wont come apart on a turn with out a brace etc, your house will come apart with a beam missing.

 

Just curious when a full turbo-back system's pricing is going to be available.

 

TOnight or by the latest tomorrow.

 

General question. If I cut off the second will I still beable to pass emissions and inspection? Off to work though talk to everyone later.