Drivetrain Need help, I need to make my car faster.
#103
Ok, now I am confused. My fellow south texan says I am in good hands with the shop I am going to BUT everyone else says the price is way too high. sigh. I dont doubt this place does good work but I havnt had ONE person say that $300 is a reasonable price to pay for a pulley instal. I guess its up tp how bad I want this done. I couldnt take apart a remote control car much less a mini;s engine. Well, I have until tomorrow morning at 8 to make up my mind. I cant research much today because im working. Someone make me feel like I am not about to get ripped off!!!
For spark plugs, it is hard to go wrong with the JCW plugs. BKR7EQUP and the best place to buy them is www.ngk.com ~$8 each. Apparently the Brisk Silver plugs are very nice as well but probably won't last as long. Silver is far more conductive than platinum but much softer and doesn't tolerate high temps as well. The dollar amount of a shorter service interval is minimal, but if your intercooler blocks the spark plug tubes and is a PITA to remove (like mine) then the longer service interval might attract you.
The proper belt to use is the Napa 060535 belt - this puts the proper amount of tension on the supercharger belt. An 060539 belt will work and is easier to install but stretches out to be slightly too long as it is used. You *could* even use the stock belt (I did at first) and be happy with the install. However, installing a shorter belt is like doing the pulley all over again. I had no idea how much the belt was slipping until I got one that didn't. A recent comparison of dyno days on an otherwise un-changed car showed 30hp gained with a non-slipping belt. With that in mind, ditch the stock belt and at the least go for an 060539.
As for 15% vs 17% vs "how often do I go to redline?" The answer is this - with the pulley done you will want to go there all the time. If you chose to do more mods down the road (like *cough* an RMW tune) then your redline will be bumped up even higher. Another thing to consider is not just the supercharger RPM but the water pump. The water pump is driven off the back of the supercharger and risks cavitation at the higher speeds imposed by the more-reducing pulleys. I think this is how GRM blew their head gasket on their tracked 03 MCS project car - they put a 19% on it and went to track events spending lots of time in the high rpm range.
#105
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#106
Indeed. My last car was an Audi S4 2.7tt...modded the crap out of it... "stage 2+" as they call it (everything but the K04 turbos). Fast as all hell ~330hp/360 ft lbs, but I too was never really in love with it. I looked at a picture of it the other day and didn't even identify it as *my* car. Quite the opposite of the Mini which I love.
#107
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Indeed. My last car was an Audi S4 2.7tt...modded the crap out of it... "stage 2+" as they call it (everything but the K04 turbos). Fast as all hell ~330hp/360 ft lbs, but I too was never really in love with it. I looked at a picture of it the other day and didn't even identify it as *my* car. Quite the opposite of the Mini which I love.
#109
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You may find that the modifications will become much more rewarding if you DIY. Maybe a pulley swap would not be the best place to lift a wrench for the first time, but you get the idea.
The intake, on the other hand, may be a great place to start.
Just have fun with it
The intake, on the other hand, may be a great place to start.
Just have fun with it
#110
#112
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Bentley
I found a decent price here: ($76)
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-Se...0496981&sr=8-4
And with free shipping it was a deal.
Change the head, camshaft, and header just one time and it pays for itself.
Ok, I guess you don't really need it for the header swap.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-Se...0496981&sr=8-4
And with free shipping it was a deal.
Change the head, camshaft, and header just one time and it pays for itself.
Ok, I guess you don't really need it for the header swap.
#113
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I found a decent price here: ($76)
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-Se...0496981&sr=8-4
And with free shipping it was a deal.
Change the head, camshaft, and header just one time and it pays for itself.
Ok, I guess you don't really need it for the header swap.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-Se...0496981&sr=8-4
And with free shipping it was a deal.
Change the head, camshaft, and header just one time and it pays for itself.
Ok, I guess you don't really need it for the header swap.
#115
The only pulley I’ve had any issue installing is the V2 https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=123988 . No need to second guess your choice on the pulley or the price you’re paying; no need for an aftermarket intake yet either.
#116
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The only pulley I’ve had any issue installing is the V2 https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=123988 . No need to second guess your choice on the pulley or the price you’re paying; no need for an aftermarket intake yet either.
I cant wait, pulley should be done by noon tomorrow!
#117
I have the Alta intake too... its just a touch on the noisy side for me. If thats a problem, consider the JCW intake for the noise reduction under cruise where the Alta has a bit of a whistle. JCW with an Alta hose is where it's at, apparently... but thats a bit more $$$ than just going Alta.
#118
Most if not all of the big power R53's are using either the JCW airbox or the OEM. Something like the Alta would be good for sound but not much power-wise.
#123
Intake ~$300 for 3-5hp
Exhaust ~$850 for 8hp
Header $850 for 10hp
Cam ~$800 installed for 8-10hp
Tune $500 for 15hp
Header and cam will have a greater effect when combined with tune as well. If you want to gain the most HP for cheapest price, start with the RMW header, then get the RMW cam, then the intake, and tune it all. Get the exhaust for the sound you like and not for HP. Unless of course you want to be a dyno queen on the boards and brag about big numbers if you aren't tracking it you don't need the extra 5hp...go for what sounds good.
#125
If the goal is to simply go faster, then the first mod should be driver skill.
BMW clubs as well as others have car control and high performance driving courses at reasonable prices.
Once you start modding, don't just add engine power. It would be best to make sure your suspension and brakes can handle it too.
If you look at the list of mods many on this thread have, you'll note that along with the pulleys and CAI's etc, there's also tires, springs, shocks, swaybars, camber plates etc etc....
Your wallet is in for shock....
BMW clubs as well as others have car control and high performance driving courses at reasonable prices.
Once you start modding, don't just add engine power. It would be best to make sure your suspension and brakes can handle it too.
If you look at the list of mods many on this thread have, you'll note that along with the pulleys and CAI's etc, there's also tires, springs, shocks, swaybars, camber plates etc etc....
Your wallet is in for shock....