NO! Boost is already increased with the ALTA PNP ECU.

 

what did the butt dyno say?

 

if this makes it hold closer to 15 psi befor it dumps and the unichip makes it peak and dump at 20ish couldnt doing this make it hold closer to 20

 

I wouldn't try this IMO, its not safe. Its just increasing the boost like a boost controller. You need additional fuel to compensate for the amount of air added.

 

You can definitely hold boost closer to 20PSIG but the R56 engine has its limitations.

Push those limitations too far and you might find yourself needing a new engine that the warranty will not cover. It's your choice.

I would not recommend doing this wastegate adjustment for any reason.

 

I just ran and did this to mine after reading this thread about 2 hours ago. It does a cool difference. I did 2 turns and now I am able to hit 13.4psi according to my scanguage where previously I could not get it over 12psi. I've also programmed a Horsepower xGauge into my scanguage and it shows 5-10hp higher than before. Over the next couple days Ill monitor Air Intake temps for any major increase noted from before.

IMO this mod wont hurt much and will only benefit with future modifications and ECU upgrades. True; uping the boost via mechanical measures is the oldest mod in the turbo book but I highly doubt doing this is less safe than 15-20psi using a Unichip piggyback.

Best part is; if I get a CEL I'll just turn it back; FOR FREEEE!!

My car is stock.

 

The PnP ecu adds more fuel to make up for the added air from the increase of boost.

 

Right but that is for 19 psi which i can totally agree with the added fuel needs of almost doubled stock boost levels.

1-2 psi is nothing on the scale of comparison. You get 25 or so HP from a unichip, and I'll get 5hp or so on this freebie mod. If BMW didnt add some safety measures they would be replacing a lot more engines due to limits being hit every day. IMO the stock ecu should be able to adjust 1-2 psi especially with direct injection, 93 octane fuel, and all the sensory. Most of these cars are already running 14psi on an untuned intake and exhaust anyhow and the built in overboost feature already puts some stock cars up around 12.5 psi.

The R53s dont need more fuel when getting a 15% pulley.

 

wouldn't the ecu compensate for the extra boost by adding more fuel? since it has to get the correct air/fuel mix?

 

the mod is not worthy!!!!! take you car on the highway, and pull on it hard on higher gears..youll trigger the CEL

 

I do not believe the ECU adjusts the air/fuel mixture like people have stated because if that was the case you can manually turn up the boost to 20 psi without a problem. If the ECU actually does add fuel, it should be just the right amount to avoid detonation not for the power.

 

All modern cars run in a closed loop fassion: The R56 car has a mass airflow sensor and also what looks like two wide band O2 sensors. The mass air sensor meters incomming air and adjusts for a predefined static fuel curve based on the outside data it recieves (airflow as a %). This alone should be enough to compensate the increased airflow by raising the boost and should automatically add enough fuel. Then the wideband O2 takes post ignition data and adjusts the fuel curves to make things more spot on acurate. High tech cars should be able to tune themselves to within about 5% of factory specifications. Beyond that a CEL may be thrown for sensors reading too high.

There are other sensors involved as well: most notably a MAP sensor which measures 'boost' pressure, and a knock sensor which measures detonation. In my experience, both of these sensors modify mainly ignition timing on a mass airflow based system. Other types of cars like the R56 in the UK use whats called a "speed density" style system which does not use a mass air meter; only the MAP sensor. Mass airflow is more day to day acurate - think emissions related - but speed density is generally easier to modify; which is why UK cars can be modded easier than US cars.

The fact that some people are throwing CELs from doing this nut mod is not because their engine is out of tune, its because they are already soo close to soft limitations with aftermarket bolt ons. You already see it with bolt ons: one too many or a part which is too aggressive will trigger a CEL. In this case, raising the boost closer to the BMW limit (14.5psi?) pushes you closer to the edge of getting a CEL.

 

So do us UK/Aus guys have a higher risk of engine damage due to the lack of an MAF? Will the Speed Density system still adjust accordingly?

 

I wouldn't. This sounds like a pretty terrible idea. That's why ECU tunes are available.

 

i can not believe people are actually doing this......your car will run lean because there is no extra fuel then go BOOOOOOOOOM.....grrrr people are ridiculous these days get a tune before you run more boost please!

the mini computer is very smart, but i would not try this without the proper sensors to make sure the computer is compensating by adding more fuel and adjusting timing.

 

the computer is adjusting for the boost increase 2 to 3 pound is ok,like the early mini s you could change the pulley and and xtra 4psi without any ecu tune

 

I would be suspicious of anyone trying to tell me of free horsepower by turning a screw X turns, its hardly accurate..

On a sensible note, Dont mess with your boost unless your a tuner or really really know what your doing . I would err on the side of caution

 

It's worth repeating; you guys are inducing boost creep. This means the wastegate cannot properly control the boost because you're restricting it's flow rate. I'm not surprised MiniPOLACK saw a CEL, because the ECU cannot regulate the boost like it's trying to.

It also sounds like nobody has done any datalogging to check AFR. The car has an onboard wideband O2, but you'll need the LSU4.9 chart to convert its milliAmpere output to Lambda.

 

I thought the output of an O2 would actually be in milivolts. Do you have any idea how I can display anything recognizable on my scan gauge? Also the scan gauge *should* be able to do some sort of linear conversion. -Lets figure this one out!

Also in regards to boost creep; well that just goes with most factory turbo'd cars these days. If we ever get some turbo upgrade or hybrid paths I'll port the wastegate passage to start. As long as I keep seeing no more than 13.5 - 14psi on my gauges I'm satisfied at the moment.

Really though maybe its because this is the "newest" trick in the book, or that someone went to far and threw a CEL after already having modifications. Maybe people are still thinnking inside the 'Mini' box where a turbo is a new game to them. Turning up the boost by adjusting the wastegate via physical, mechanical, or electronic means is the oldest simplest power modification in the turbo book. Theres nothing new here people; its just new for Minis.

My car is stock besides this nut job. I've driven about 400 miles since doing it. Floored the car realistically about a dozen times or more. Seeing 13.5psi regularly, with occasional 14psi when I do an overboost technique. Best part: NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS.

 

Ive come from alot of other turbo cars and you will be EXTREMELY hard pressed to find someone in the know on any other forum telling people to adjust screws on their actuator.. I think you may be thinking of a mechanical boost controller (which in itself isnt accurate and can cause boost creep) so turning a screw on the actuator itself is even less efficient.. No matter which way you look at it your inducing boost creep

I get 19psi on my car and thats tuned and safe..

Boost creep isnt standard on turbo cars unless you start playing with them like you are. Boost creep = poor setup..

 

My Boost is not changing therefore it is not creeping. It stays exactly between 13.5 and 14psi. The definition of Boost creep is an uncontrollable rise in boost pressure beyond the control of factory components = engine goes boom from hitting 20 psi uncontrollably.

Please go read a book.

Seems you also have not been around as long as turbo cars or else you would know what you are talking about. Look up a Saab 900 Turbo, built from the 1970s onward with "screws on the wastegate" and you will see this trick is probably older than you are. Unfortunatly most modern day turbo cars do not have adjustable wastegate actuators; and therefore people resort to using MBC and EBCs. All adjusting the wastegate actuator does is inadvertantly increase the wastegate spring rate. Please see external wastegates for a better idea of what this is before you get a GT28r. Adjusting the wastegate actuator/spring is actually the best form of boost control.

 

Great, youve owned a saab turbo in the 70s and now you know everything

 

I'll be the first to raise the BS flag on this quote. I'm now proven, spoke about, and continually demonstrate the complete and absolute lack of boost creep on my car. If you dont know what the hell boost creep is then please go buy an S4 Turbo RX7. Just one mod on those things and boost is out of control due to completely apparent boost creep. OH Ya btw this is completely the opposit of what is happening on the mini: which is steady boosst at 13.5 to 14psi. and guess what else: it doesnt go any higher!! Now please explain to me why this is boost creep or else stop saying its boost creep. FOR THE FINAL TIME IT IS NOT BOOST CREEP!! Now, maybe if I had a few more bolt-ons I'd be tootin a different story about boost creep; but for me, at this present state of time, on the planet earth some altitude above sealevel in the present weathering conditions and stock airflow restrictions I AM NOT SEEING BOOST CREEP.

Now I've been under the hood of most common turbo cars of the past 2 decades and I can tell you that 90% of them do not allow for static physical wastegate adjustments. Honestly I dont know why the heck BMW and Mini allowed this to 'happen'; and frankly I was very surrised when I initially found this thread. Before finding this thread I never even thought about taking off the heat shielding.

Now, go ahead and spend a few thousand more dollars on flashy bolt-ons and laggy turbo upgrades. Then go ask someone whose probably worked on supercharged MINIs or larger block turbo cars why your car accelerates like a pos and has no street power; prepare to open your wallet as wide as it can go.

 

If your car has no 'street' power its because you havent tuned your car. Let me guess, your in the States where ecu tuning is still not available.. Supercharged minis and turbo minis are completely different.. My car as it is beats alot of serious powered cars but i want a proper turbo power delivery.. I love the way your able to compare the tried and tested bolt ons and big turbos to your little 2 psi increase

Enjoy...The extra heat from the turbo

PS i thought you were well versed on the turbo applications of old and new ? If so you wouldnt call any upgrade on the minis K03 'laggy' as that tells me you have only driven with pea sized turbos which were made for daily driving, economy and going to the shops not performance..

 

I agree it's not boost creep but something doesn't seem right when it only seems to work without causing a CEL on completely stock cars. It just seems really strange that an exhaust and intake would be enough of a change to the car so that an extra pound or two of boost causes the ECU to cry foul. Until someone's put their car on a dyno and really logged exactly how the ECU is reacting to this I'd hold off on recommending it. I often wondered why when the R56 first came out more people weren't putting manual boost controllers on the cars and testing, I think I'm beginning to see why.