ok here what i did today ive been consulting with a mini tech before i did that iwhanted to know how mush boost on the factory software is allow before troying cel light on an timing pull well we can go to 14.5 psi ,the ecu will adapted to that ,its verry simple just tight the screw from the wasgate ,only 2 full treads!!!!!!!not more than that,now i see 13.5 14 psi on my boost gauge the ecu took about 10 miles to adapted to the change and wow!!!!the mini is alive now the car pulls up to 5200rpm than its starts going down a little ,i will not recomande this mode without an intercooler upgrde and full exaust

 

first of all spell check is our friend.

second, it will still pull timing, and dump the boost unless you remap.

by it, I mean the ECU

 

it doesnt pull timing or boost at all

 

Alright one last comment,,,

perhaps you should explain what you adjusted and your understanding of the function of this screw.

I really doubt restricting the ability of the waste gate to function will not result in the ECU taking corrective action.

 

I'm going to have to call shenanigans to the magical screw tightening. The MINI ECU is a mysterious beast but someone will tame it; they will have my money in doing so.

 

+1... Do tell us, with pictures too...

 

he is refering to the nut or nuts that are located on the opposite side of the rod that is coming out of the bell housing of the wastegate actuator. these 2 nuts are located on the wastegate valve side. one nut is a counter not and the other nut actually lets you adjust. by tightening the nuts you basically let the valve close the gate opening a bit more mening more exhaust gases will actually go through the turbocharger then the bypass there creating more boost. where as you guys debate, our marvelous ECU will try to counteract this overboost feature by opening the bypass valve to get it down to the set limit . i dont know , its like mechanical adjustment vs. ecu brain power....ill definitely get on it tomorrow

 

good answer but just go 2 full treads thats enought

 

sorry, i don't understand, i got 15psi peak already without doing that...

what is this trick about? please take pix too of which 2 screws, thanks...

 

I believe this guy because I used to have a Lancer and heard all the EVO guys doing the same mod to hold the boost better under load and they are loved the mod if I remember correctly.

 

Have you done this on your Mini or the Lancer? Just want to understand what "it" is exactly and the tangible benefits "it" gave you.

Thanks.

 

I have never done this mod just have head about it before. The evo guys used to say that when you tighten that bolt it's like plugging a boost leak and therefore you see more boost. I wouldn't know which bolt it is so someone you needs to do a quick write up with pics.

 

If I read the OP correctly, you're closing the wastegate orifice, thus inducing boost creep?

 

You all are getting warmer...

you are adjusting the length of travel on the actuator arm, shorten it, more boost, lengthen less boost.

Because the waste gate dumps exhaust away from the turbine.

So how is this bad... unless you have access to the ECU to tune it. You run the risk of running too lean, the engine knocking, becuase it compensates with waste gate.... which you just muffed with.

Typically in the world one adjusts the waste gate once they tuned the engine and see it is not quite making boost. The Forrester, WRX, VW's were all good examples of this trick. NOTE: the engine was tuned... it was NOT making boost target, this means the rest of the parameters were set for higher boost, meaning Injectors, timing, valve timing, etc.

I still repeat... not a good move. if you are lucky the ECU will out smart you, if not... have fun fixing knock & lean burn damage.

 

i think shorten it is less boost , cause your opening the wastegate valve more hence more exhaust gases bypass the turbine wheel, and lengthening the arm, closes the gate more hence more exhaust gases pass through the turbine wheel, hence higher psi and quicker spool ups

 

ok did the "trick"...ill be testing it out tomorrow with my butt dyno
basically you have to remove the heat shields from the upper portion of the turbo and you should have easy access to the nuts.

 

no you have to short it and make sure you have a boost gauge do not ad more than 2 or 3 psi!!

 

 

how hard was it to turn the nut

 

very hard

 

Just make sure you are all on the same sheet of music. I have found that boost pressure increases with ambient temperature. Anything below 50`F and I only see about 13.5 PSIg of boost. Once ambient temperature goes above 50`F I see about 15 PSIg boost.

Not that I would recommend this wastegate adjustment; make sure you are testing at the same ambient temperature to check you results.

 

2 turns will increase 2 psi off boost nomather what the ambiant temp is

 

Could someone take pics of this bolt?

 

you have to take out the top off the turbo(heatshild) remove the o2 sensor first they is 5 screw to take off for heat shild,than under the turboyou will the shaft off the wasgate ,2 10mm will dothe trick they are very thight bolts so becarfull not to bentthe shaft put alittlt off wd on them good luck,you are going to have an ecu tune in 2 weeks so guys just wait a little longer

 

I already have the Alta PNP piggy back tune. Should I do this also?