Drivetrain nm-eng vs other intakes(alta)(m7)and soooo on....
#27
#28
[quote=dunphyj;2863133]oh i'm sorry i misunderstood, no i do not have their rear sway bar, i never found it necessary to have a 22mm swaybar when i'm running my car mostly on the street... yes it's a track and street car but it's mostly street... not to mention i personally see the swaybars as more of a fine tuning mechanism rather than the end all be all of a suspension and handling mod... if you're thinking of some quick handling tightening for little money compared to most suspension stuff then sure grab a swaybar or for the same money get JCW springs... rather than a 22mm on the street wich, on its softest setting would probably make the car snap oversteer more than ur used to, or worse do that in bad weather, most likely you'll be happier with just a 19mm on the softest setting... that's what i do on the street then just switch it to hardest setting for track.
I seee...... but the 22mm for track would preform better than the 19mm right? Its just it wouldn't be good for the streets. Or at least less comfortable? I dont drive to much around unless its going to school, getting food, or hanging out with friends. So i dont think it would make much a diff for having the 22mm unless i have some fun in the canyons then a 19mm would be better and safer knowing it wont oversteer?
I seee...... but the 22mm for track would preform better than the 19mm right? Its just it wouldn't be good for the streets. Or at least less comfortable? I dont drive to much around unless its going to school, getting food, or hanging out with friends. So i dont think it would make much a diff for having the 22mm unless i have some fun in the canyons then a 19mm would be better and safer knowing it wont oversteer?
#29
I seee...... but the 22mm for track would preform better than the 19mm right? Its just it wouldn't be good for the streets. Or at least less comfortable? I dont drive to much around unless its going to school, getting food, or hanging out with friends. So i dont think it would make much a diff for having the 22mm unless i have some fun in the canyons then a 19mm would be better and safer knowing it wont oversteer?
A 22mm sway bar is absolutely unecessary in my opinion. Once you get a good suspension set up and proper alignment for your application...you will have no problem getting the car to rotate with the stock sway bar...and anything larger will be overkill and make the car twitchy.
But if you must get one, get a 19mm. It will be plenty.
I'd look into front camber plates before a sway bar though.
#30
Very good point. I think many are getting the view that a big sway bar is going to make your car handle like a roller coaster on rails, and with the bigger bar, the better the grip on the "roller coaster track" will be.
The best point made is that a swaybar changes the balance and distrubution of weight/force in the suspension. It is not a miracle bar !
The best point made is that a swaybar changes the balance and distrubution of weight/force in the suspension. It is not a miracle bar !
#31
I think suspension tuning is one of the hardest things to do "correctly" because there are so many prameters that influence handling.
Before you start modding the suspension, I would recommend first to come up with an objective for you and the car wrt handling. What are you doing with the car? And what are you like as a driver? The important parameters which can be tuned are:
1. Car height
2. Car weight (and weight distribution)
3. Car HP and torque
4. spring rates
5. dampening effects (including compression and rebound separately)
6. front geometry
7. rear geometry
8. tires, tire pressures and tire pressure differential
Each parameter can have compounding effects on each other as well.
I think for most, they want a neutral handling car whatever it means to them. When I was doing the suspension, my objective was to reduce understeer in fast speed corners and allow rotation of the car primarily using TBO and TTO but not so much power oversteer. This is a car that sees quite a bit track and DD so some compromises must be made on both. Therefore, adjustability become an important consideration.
For the track I needed hardcore parts that will stand abuse. For daily driving, I needed a softer setting that is wife friendly. While I wanted to lower the car, it was not practical for a winter driver. Too much extra HP and performance would make the car unreliable and can mean towing it home. Also, I cannot do much with weight in a DD.
So what is left?
A. Front geometry using front camber plates (but not too aggressive so I do not have to change it often). It is a pain because adjusting camber also adjusts toe.
B. Rear geometry using an adjustable sway bar (19 mm) and a adjustable end links. I tried both 19 mm and 22 mm but 22 MM sways can lift the inside rear tire quite easily which is not good for traction as you ride on only three tires. And I did put in adjustable control arms but soon realized that I never changed that. I am playing around with front camber a little and if I use the 19MM, it is set to medium aggressive. If I use the 22MM, I set it to soft.
C. Tire and tire pressures. I started experimenting with rotation and tire pressures and there can be a large amount of "adjustments" in this area. Next up, some changes to the tires and wheels.
For each track session, I would only change one parameter at a time, and only a little. Lately I have been experimenting with tire pressures so the suspension settings have not changed much. This can be more complicated because I drive on many different tracks.
This has been going on for approx one year and over 15 track days.
Yes, you can change the settings between street and track but I prefer not to because I want feel the same handling characteristic all the time. So far I am quite pleased with the suspension mod choices I made because what I have done seems to suit my driving style.
Before you start modding the suspension, I would recommend first to come up with an objective for you and the car wrt handling. What are you doing with the car? And what are you like as a driver? The important parameters which can be tuned are:
1. Car height
2. Car weight (and weight distribution)
3. Car HP and torque
4. spring rates
5. dampening effects (including compression and rebound separately)
6. front geometry
7. rear geometry
8. tires, tire pressures and tire pressure differential
Each parameter can have compounding effects on each other as well.
I think for most, they want a neutral handling car whatever it means to them. When I was doing the suspension, my objective was to reduce understeer in fast speed corners and allow rotation of the car primarily using TBO and TTO but not so much power oversteer. This is a car that sees quite a bit track and DD so some compromises must be made on both. Therefore, adjustability become an important consideration.
For the track I needed hardcore parts that will stand abuse. For daily driving, I needed a softer setting that is wife friendly. While I wanted to lower the car, it was not practical for a winter driver. Too much extra HP and performance would make the car unreliable and can mean towing it home. Also, I cannot do much with weight in a DD.
So what is left?
A. Front geometry using front camber plates (but not too aggressive so I do not have to change it often). It is a pain because adjusting camber also adjusts toe.
B. Rear geometry using an adjustable sway bar (19 mm) and a adjustable end links. I tried both 19 mm and 22 mm but 22 MM sways can lift the inside rear tire quite easily which is not good for traction as you ride on only three tires. And I did put in adjustable control arms but soon realized that I never changed that. I am playing around with front camber a little and if I use the 19MM, it is set to medium aggressive. If I use the 22MM, I set it to soft.
C. Tire and tire pressures. I started experimenting with rotation and tire pressures and there can be a large amount of "adjustments" in this area. Next up, some changes to the tires and wheels.
For each track session, I would only change one parameter at a time, and only a little. Lately I have been experimenting with tire pressures so the suspension settings have not changed much. This can be more complicated because I drive on many different tracks.
This has been going on for approx one year and over 15 track days.
Yes, you can change the settings between street and track but I prefer not to because I want feel the same handling characteristic all the time. So far I am quite pleased with the suspension mod choices I made because what I have done seems to suit my driving style.
#34
It does free up the engine area, too. Get the pre-cut cowl that DOS offers.
#36
That's one intake I've wanted to try but never got around to it... If anyone in the Philly area wouldn't mind me swapping my ddmrace intake with their DoS intake for a week or so I'd appreciate that...
For those of u that have it... I know the design of it (very nice indeed) but do u know what filter is in it? Foam or cone filer? K&n perhaps? Velocity stack style? Because it has the two ambient intakes I'd love to compare it head to head with the rave intake I have....
For those of u that have it... I know the design of it (very nice indeed) but do u know what filter is in it? Foam or cone filer? K&n perhaps? Velocity stack style? Because it has the two ambient intakes I'd love to compare it head to head with the rave intake I have....
#39
As some would tell you, it's all about the biz. :(
If you do your research, you should be ok. I had to trim my DDM Works intake to make it work with my M7 STB. I was ok with it.
If I go with the DDM pressurized, I imagine I will fabricate something to keep my M7 or go with the Gspec.
If you plan and figure out what works you will have money spent well or at least have fun spending your money.
Btw, I'm not sure the NM STB would not work, give them a call and ask, directly if it works with the DDM product.
If you do your research, you should be ok. I had to trim my DDM Works intake to make it work with my M7 STB. I was ok with it.
If I go with the DDM pressurized, I imagine I will fabricate something to keep my M7 or go with the Gspec.
If you plan and figure out what works you will have money spent well or at least have fun spending your money.
Btw, I'm not sure the NM STB would not work, give them a call and ask, directly if it works with the DDM product.
I read and saw some pics of a brace that DDM is coming out with that is compatible with their intake.
#40
It cannot be bought or at least 2 weeks ago it was not available.
That's my story....
#41
BTW, random side note... i should be able to sometime in the next couple months give you guys a Dyno of bolt-ons before and after tune (to be compared with other tunes out there such as RMW, and as part of it since i have a couple intakes i will also request to have the pre and post tune dyno runs with stock, DDM Race, and NM eng intakes to show what the different gains with a tune would be... the tune unfortunately will not be RMW but GIAC's high boost 93 octane map from Helix13...) and like i said, if someone out there has a DoS intake, i'll also throw that on the car for the intake/tune test as well....
i'm waiting for confirmation for the dyno deal from Ralph at Helix... and all this would happen when they bring the dyno from their old shop to the new one (i will pay out the wazzooo to show the difference between intakes if it kills me)
i'm waiting for confirmation for the dyno deal from Ralph at Helix... and all this would happen when they bring the dyno from their old shop to the new one (i will pay out the wazzooo to show the difference between intakes if it kills me)
#42
#45
Hey Dunphyj, I was wondering if you tried the forge induction kit http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMIND05. I am considering it along with the DDMWorks Race Kit and the NM intake. I am looking for a more closed intake such as the forge or the DDM works because of all the horror heat soak stories i have read and because I drive in a lot of stop and go traffic.
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
Last edited by Davidoyo; 09-10-2009 at 10:10 PM.
#46
Hey Dunphyj, I was wondering if you tried the forge induction kit http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMIND05. I am considering it along with the DDMWorks Race Kit and the NM intake. I am looking for a more closed intake such as the forge or the DDM works because of all the horror heat soak stories i have read and because I drive in a lot of stop and go traffic.
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
No heatsoak with the DoS intake
#47
Hey Dunphyj, I was wondering if you tried the forge induction kit http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMIND05. I am considering it along with the DDMWorks Race Kit and the NM intake. I am looking for a more closed intake such as the forge or the DDM works because of all the horror heat soak stories i have read and because I drive in a lot of stop and go traffic.
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
also just to reiterate a big thing bout this thread... regardless of the intake, your power gains will be minimal at best... it's more of an eye candy/sound piece... nice thing about forge and K&N pieces is you can just take off the hose that connects the snorkel to the filter piece and youll have the same effect and sounds of an open filter.
i'm actually debating on whether or not to grab M7s heat shield with aerogel or whatever that thing is... or just WMWs turbo wrap and get an exhaust wrap to go with it... either way i go i'll post something on this thread to tell accordingly... and anyone looking into the DDMWorks Race Intake, i'm going to most likely sell mine to aquire a DoS intake for comparison purposes... 420 if you're going to come pick it up, and i'll install it on ur car no cost as well... if anyone buys it off me i honestly would prefer paypal before you come (so that way i can order the DoS and have it at my place probably by the time you come get and i install the race intake... wouldn't take more than half an hour either...). don't get your hopes up too much just yet tho, like i said i may try to get the heat shields first or keep the intake for potential dyno testing (as for the one comment about how to get air into both intakes... i figure two nice big fans on teh front of the car mimicking highway speeds or so, that way it's most like really driving the car
#48
#49