So is someone going to come out with one that doesn't cost $300?

 

I pretty sure a Scan Guage II -- will do the job at about $169 ( maybe less on Amazon-etc).

http://scangauge.com/support/faq.shtml#2

Perhaps some pros can chime in to confirm.

 

I'm sorry if I wasn't clear, but I'm referring to an O2 simulator, not an OBD scantool.

 

Forgive me for being a dummy.

I have seen a lot of talk about a method using a anti fouler,
Below is an example from a bimmer forum.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=525568

And then I have seen this electrical type:

http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...products_id=10

Do either of these work on a Mini?
Would appreciate your knowledge -- Thanks

 

That one from O2 Sim.com worked flawlessly on the R53's. I ran mine catless for a long time using one of those with no CEL.

For the R56 though, we apparently have to spend $300 on the thing from Riss racing.

 

For now I'm just using my mounted DashDyno to clear the code. I can live with it saving $300.

 

Does the sim o2 do anything else other than block any other code than the p042? Just wanted to get an idea of its full functionality.

 

$300 is just too much for me to pay to fix a dp headache.

I purchased my dp in order to use credit after returning a Unichip, which worked for about 15 minutes and then failed repeatedly despite three different harnesses. Hopefully I have now learned not to buy new products from companies where the much of the beta-testing is done using paying customers. Please, please, do not buy V. 1 products from companies mentioned in this forum who have a record of questionable customer service, half-baked products, and denied warranty service! Companies like this will consider you a trouble maker rather than fix their problematic product.

Despite the $300 cost, Riss Racing gets kudos for thorough testing before selling the product and I am not referring to RR in the paragraph above.

 

If you dont mind, how much and where did you purchase the DashDyno? When clearing the check engine light, how long before it comes back on?

thanks

Jason

 

even if we clear it using the scangauge... we cant pass inspect can we?

 

Good question, Since I am in NC as well, I imagine as long as the light is off you would be fine? Not sure about running DP catted and catback which i am about to get would pass or not.

 

Get a spark plug fowler they only cost about 5 bux

 

fouler doesnt work im using it now. one spacer drilled + one... works on older cars... lame... thats why i like my dd

 

the fouler works good on my 09 never got a code

 

If they plug your car in, then no. It depends on the state you live in.

Even if you clear the code right before inspection you will not pass because the emissions monitors have to run through a few drive cycles first. When your monitors are finally ready, your CEL will pop up again.

 

+1 i know =/

 

I'm in NC, and removed my cat on my last car, and pulled the o2 sensor back out with an anti-fouler to make the ECU happy. Worked 98% of the time. I had a CEL come on from crap gas near my inspection time, so I disconnected the battery to reset it and drove in for inspection. No CEL lights on, codes all cleared, and I failed because the emissions system hadn't been running enough miles to initialize. Had to drive it an hour and come back. So just clearing it for NC prob won't work.

 

I doubt clearing the code will allow you to pass, even in a sniff.
Part of the test runs the engine at 3k for a steady period of time .. which is the fastest way to get the code.

I haven't really tested this scientifically per se, but I can tell you after running my catless dp for sometime now (and using a scantool to clear the code) ... I can reproduce fairly easily by just jumping on the highway. Around town (varying RPMs).. I can keep it off for maybe a couple days. But the minute you are around 3k for several minutes ... the code likely will come up.

Simply, clearing the code won't guarantee it won't come up during the test.
Just my non-scientific two cents.

 

Thats why you live in a state like Florida cause the only emission standar is having a cat and they don't do inspections.

 

I know you guys think $300 is a lot ... but it isnt if you saw the cost of the parts to build the O2 sim plus the time and research that went into it.

Do you think they want to charge $300? Dont you think they would want to charge $100 - $150 and sell even more? Its just not possible. You can thank BMW for that.

 

has anyone actually received their o2 sim yet ?

 

Waiting patiently for my O2 Sim. I have the catted RR DP and throw a code virtually every day. It's really getting old but thank god I have the scangauge mounted.

Riss Racing please get me this O2 Sim. N1tro said you're shipping his. Don't forget me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers!

Cheers!

 

Is your downpipe catted Boomer?

 

it is, both of us have catted & coated downpipes

 

Catless/coated, and its a beautiful thing!