i finally got all my parts and put in a alta cai , boost tubes, intake to turbo, a custom greddy type rz bov setup. sorry i used to be a big ricer, haha, used to have a civic si, so i love greddy. HKS is good too, but their kit goes where the hot side boost tube was replaced, so i decided to do my own setup.
for the bov i used a custom flange and a 180 degree boost tubing replacing the factory noise maker.
as for the diameters of the tubing, if anyone else wants to know, or wants to do their own bov setup, its 1.25"!!!!! i couldnt find this info anywhere until i took it off and measured it all myself.

 

well done! way to MINIpulate the setup to your liking

 

Haha, I just have to give you props for acknowledging you're a big ricer at heart!

 

Im all about being different, no two minis the same!

ha, hey i am what i am. i do love my mini now though. but you have to admit the b16 engine was insane for naturally aspirited. over 100hp/L.

 

Hi, what a coinincidence, i too just mounted my HKS BOV yesterday.

Did you notice that there is now a slight turbo lag when the boost is vented to atmosphere and when u throttle it again?

 

I have absolutely no lag after installation.

Did you install the hks kit? The one that replaces the area of the boost tube befor the intake manifold?

 

This is what i got.





I used the HKS BOV but replicated the HKS pipe. The HKS maintains the noise maker, so now i'm considering getting another pipe fabricated without the connection to the noise maker, in the hope that the reduced volume would improve boost pressure back in the pipe after its all been vented out to atmosphere.

 

I'm not an expert. I replaced my noisemaker space with my BOV.
Obviously the noise maker tubing is just dead space with no purpose .
But as for lag, I'm not sure if it will improve it or not. Have you searched to see if anyone else had this problem?

 

Searched and still searching..... still no definate conclusion.

I think i'll just get the new pipe fabricated, this time without the connection to the noise maker. Also as the flange on the current pipe has the BOV at a slightly odd angle.

BTW, can you please post up a pic of the noise maker? Thanks.

 

Mauler-- are you saying the diameter of the tubing to the stock noisemaker (Which i currently have removed and blocked off), is 1.25", which is also the diameter of the GReddy BOV?

where was your bov source? ty in advance

 

boston dude sorry i didnt see your post, yes the factory noisemaker piping is 1.25

the greddy bov i have attached to a flange that is 1.25" and a u shaped 1.25 turbo pipe connects the bov the the old spot where the noise maker piping attaches

 

you gotta make a video so we can hear how the greddy sounds. ive been debating on HKS or greddy.

 

Um maybe I can take a vid tomorrow. I'll have to see if my digital camera takes video

 

I FOUND IT!!! the answer to better boost response! MAKE OUR TURBOS BALL BEARING! :D.... now just to get someone to actually do it....

 

sorry that was only half sarcastic... but honestly if boost response and recovery is really that big a problem on our extremely small turbos (and compounded by our small engines) then the only real way to fix it is to get the exact same turbo only replace its journal bearings with ball bearings... it's definitely proven that ball bearing is quicker spooling than journal bearings, and add that to a twin scroll setup like ours then you mostlikely will have epic boost response all around no matter what...

as for BOVs, the one on the turbo is technically all you need, the noise maker is there for exactly that... noise making, it's not as functional as the one on the turbo... it's functional yes, but it's just a great fun thing to do to the minis and they sound great! but technically if boost response is that big of a problem on our cars we have some problems.

sorry i just realize that a lot of people spend a lot of money on BOVs for our cars but they only take out half the equation most the time... no one ever touches the bov on the turbo or recirc, i'm not sure exactly what it is, i'm pretty sure it's a BOV. if you want to get the best possible response through BOVs alone then the only way to do that is either a) completely delete the noise maker and leave it to the turbo electronic one. b) do all from a but add forge's bov (basically a spacer for the bov on the turbo making it a vent to atmosphere or a more effective one... personally i think it makes it sound like a bus because it's a long drawn out release shifting from strong to weaker based on what the car electronically sees the boost as and it vents according to what the car sees necessary to keep the car and turbo safe.) or C) get something like Alta's block off plate which deletes the electronic piece on the turbo and takes away the car's control of boost and then run a vacuum activated one like any of the ones we see here, Helix13, Alta, Greddy, and HKS.

then there's option D) keep the one on the turbo, replace the noise maker with Helix, Alta or Greddy (or get a hardpipe for the HKS only cuz lets face it two vacuum bovs are kinda redundant at best... IMO exhaust depots cold pipe with the HKS piece on it is great) and just love the fact that you have one of the greatest engines ever made.

 

Let's hear it!!!!

 

From my own experience with a hardpipe with a HKS BOV mounted just like the HKS bolt-on kit, i found that there is now a lag between shifts.

To my own understanding, i believe this is cause by the venting of boost pressure into atmosphere, thus making the turbo make up boost pressure again in the pipes.

 

the only way i can see that as a problem for hks is because, i think, the HKS has two stages of venting, high and low boost... as opposed to most piston type bovs. it could just be a problem with the HKS BOV... i've heard every now and then you get one that leaks boost... at least there are quite a few of those on youtube...

 

i too have a boost gauge. i do not think its leaking.

and yes the HKS BOV does have a dual stage venting system. Low boost, a smaller 'hole' vents out boost and higer boost vents out at a bigger 'hole'. i am not sure where the cut off for low/high boost it though.

 

One way to find out is put ur engine under water and look for air bubbles from the BOV :p completely joking obviously... Just revv ur engine up a bit around 3-4k so in neutral it's making a little boost... Have someone else listen close to the valve for a leak... Cuz when there is a leak it's 90% of the time is the low boost piece being a little loose... It should sound weird at heavy boost almost fluttery if it's something loose