Yep, just realized that the very top fill bolt is directly under a radiator hose and there appears to be another towards the firewall and lower. Which do you recommend removing? The T55 next to the firewall is in super tight, I don't know if I can get it out.

 

The one under the hose. See the procedure in the 2nd gen forum title ATF partial fluid change, or search for my posts to find it.

 

Just have some more information to pass on,
anyone on a budget looking for a cheap fluid that specs 3309 look at peak multi vehicle atf..
it lists 3309 on its information sheet
http://www.peaklubricants.com/images...tion_Guide.pdf
just thought i'd mention i think you will be able to order 5 gallon pails for about 67 dollars from advance auto parts.

 

Nothing against Peak, but "budget" and "ATF" shouldn't be in the same sentence as far as this tranny is concerned. Since the fluid change is so involved and anything BUT straight-forward, it pays in the long run to spend the money on top of the line synthetics that can last a while. Most will last 50K miles under severe driving or 100K normal driving. It makes no sense to me to replace non-synthetic with non-synthetic which will probably be spent for sure in another 40K miles.
Besides, a quart of good quality ATF should be under $10 most of the time.

 

I've compiled my DIY along with other helpful posts from this thread into a single PDF document for easier distribution.
Any feedback is welcome.

I would like to include the R56 if possible. Where did we land on the procedure? Is it identical except for the fill plug location?
Do all 2007+ automatics across models use the same tranny?

Attachment removed since guide has been updated. Read on to find it.

 

Just tryin to help,
thanks for everything guys i got all the information i need from this thread
thanks again

 

Can someone help me out with the R's?
I'm ashamed to admit I only know the 2007+ is the R56
What about the 2007+ base Mini, Clubman /S and Countryman /S?

RealOEM.com and a parts guy are coming through, here is what I have found out so far.
Some Mini S use the TF-60SN and others use the TF61SN from 2005 to 2012
The clubman / coupe / Mini could also have the TF70SC from 2011-2012
The Countryman from 2011-2012 has the TF61-SN and in 2012 the TF61SN or the TF70SC

So! Time to look up how the TF61 and TF70 are different and what impact that has on the DIY.

 

I'd like to know this info as well since I've got an 07 S.
I also do not believe in forever trans fluid.

 

Thank you!!!!!

 

Fishbone, that is a really awesome complete document on this DIY Tranny fluid change. Only thing I'd add is for those already experiencing the tranny issues not to get discouraged. I completed 5 of these changes starting with the first at 94K and the last at 100K and did not get complete resolution until 107K. So, it takes some driving and time for the new fluid to cycle through, mix, and tighten up everything. I almost scrapped the Mini several times, but now it is very seldom when it slips or slams.

 

Good to know. I'll add that in

 

I've made some significant changes to the DIY. If you've saved a copy, get the new one.
Is there ONE place where I should be posting this, or should I open a separate thread into all the corresponding make threads?

 

Hi all,

I have done the trans drain and refill using fishbone's great guide (thanks!). I measured what I took out and then put the same amount back in (2.3 qt in my case). Did 3 total changes with 2.3 qt each. Things were ok until I tried the fluid level check procedure which is throwing me off. Following the procedure to check the level:

1. Car was cold (check)
2. Car was parked on level driveway (at least it looked level, I didn't get out there with my level to check)
3. Fill bolt was tightened (check)
4. Took off drain bolt only (check). The standpipe was still in there and hand tightened from when I previously changed the fluid.

About .75 qt came out and I thought it was too much. Decided to check that things were ok so I put the drain plug back in, started the car and backed up in the driveway. Things were still ok. Put car in Drive and it wouldn't move. I had to rev to about 3k rpms to move forward at all. Clearly this is bad so I shut off car.

Added .25 qt ATF. Shifting was rough when I tried a test drive.
Added .25 qt more. Shifting was better but still rough.
Added .25 qt more. Shifting was pretty good but I had a couple jerky shifts.
Added .25 qt more and things feel a bit "slippy" and I am probably over filled.

So...what did I do wrong? Wouldn't more fluid have come out of I warmed up the car as in steps 5-9? Then I would be way too low.

Should I just drain and refill with 2.3 qt and assume all is well? Any help is appreciated!

Chris

 

Drive it for a few days and see if it improves.

 

If you do the fluid check that way by removing the plug and leaving the standpipe in, THE CAR MUST BE RUNNING... and it may even need to be in gear (up on a rack, or stands, or whatever). Much of the fluid "pools" in the pan when the car isn't running. When running, the pumps come on and distribute fluid throughout the tranny, which then flows via gravity back into the pan.

So the standpipe level is the amount of "reserve" fluid that should be in the pan while the tranny is in action.

In my experience, I just remove plug and standpipe with the car off, drain, replace standpipe and plug, and refill with 2.3-2.5L of fluid. Always seems "close enough" - 33K plus now since my original drain and refill (plus another about 11k ago) and all is well.

 

Makes sense...

Also, it did take a few days to get back to "normal" as far as weird shifts. One week in and things seem better after the change. Thanks all.

One trick I noticed is to remove the plastic intercooler cover to get to the fill bolt...instead of the air intake tube. Made things a bit easier for me.

 

I cannot explain the issues you had. My car was NOT running when I took the drain plug out. When I did mine, the car was not running but then again I drove it the night before and did the check in the morning. I agree that the ATF drains in the sump, I think it is safer to start the car up, run it through each gear selector at least 2 seconds and THEN pull the plug out?

 

Clutchless has provided the guide for the 2007+
Updated. Enjoy!

 

I am going to start a fluid change this weekend and wondered if the PDF was available? Thanks so much!!

 

Look at this thread in the Gen2 forum: It is the same PDF for both:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3502021

 

Can you guys suggest a better place/way to post it so it's always visible?
I'm attaching the DIY here.

 

It should be posted in the How to sections for both 1st and 2nd generation cars.

 

Somebody raised a good point with me via PM.
Step 5 (Put the stand pipe back in and screw the drain plug)
contradicts with Step 6 (On step 6, you say "Don’t put the drain plug back in)
Which is a hilariously retarded oversight on my behalf so I am glad it was caught.
The reasoning was, with the drain plug out, fluid will drain in faster since air can get out.
However, if the car is now raised as high as possible to get the most fluid out, with the drain plug out it is possible that the pan, in this position, won't hold as much fluid as it drained out.
What do you guys think the best aproach should be.
I don't remember running into this issue because my car was not raised that high I guess.

I see 3 fixes:
-leave the drain plug in and take forever and half to fill it up
-if the car is on jacks and not ramps, lower it and fill it up
-take your chances and see if the same amount of ATF that came out will go in

Opinions? Or should all the above choices be included and let the user decide?

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...uid_Change.htm

HERE is a nice take on the fluid change on Pelican parts and it has alot of PICTURES

Edit:

It's a great time of year to do the fluid change. Just let your car and the oil set outside half the day and it's at perfect temp to do the change

 

Hey guys, I need some help here desperately.

I just tried to measure the ATF level by following Fishbone's procedure, and guess what? about 2-3 quarts of fluid just gushed out.

The temperature of the fluid was spot on (40 degrees celcius) so this means my transmission was overfilled by 2 quarts?!

I don't know what to do at this point... Car was level, plastic tube inside the draining plug is not cracked or anything either...