I got my updated tune about 2-3 business days after asking Jan for it. Installed it and drove for nearly a week with the update and it's treated me very well so far. 1st and 2nd gears feel much better and the engine overall feels a bit smoother and more consistent. Very nice Jan!

If yours is taking a bit longer, relax and send a nice reminder after a few days. It's hard to coordinate so many different clients with different cars! Also about the P&B, I've bugged Jan plenty about it, I want it, ect. I'm pretty sure he knows a lot of us want it by now! Judging by the improvements of this update I got, his time has been well spent so far.

 

May sound like a stupid question but did you reset the computer after going back to the stock box?
When I installed my Helix FMIC the car felt like a dog even though it could breath better, reset the computer and it came to life!
By the way, your MPG sucks! I can do 25 mpg running 120-140mph on the autobahn. If I keep it around 65-70 mph I can do better than 36-40 mpg.
This is with the stock box and either Alta or K&N drop in's

 

Stock box was with stock filter,
Open filter was (as self defined), open element filter.

27-28mpg is cruising 85-90mph. So yes, 120-140 would yield me prob about 25 as well.
I've never cruised for a whole tank at 65-70, but if I reset mpg on computer when I'm cruising at 65, I see 37mpg, which calculated by odometor would be about 2mpg less, so 35mpg.
Mind you I have my own home brew auto on sport button, so its on 100% of the time, and I am usually driving the car rather hard even on my daily commute, boosting most of the way.
Also note, altitude and topographical differences. In new england, it is pretty dam hilly around here, which makes a huge difference.

We'll just say I 'enjoy' the car for its capabilities.

Cruising 85-90 does not mean I am weaving in and out of lanes either, my commute holds 99% traffic free roads in the morning and afternoon, luckily the traffic is on the opposite side, =)

 

I understand the driving hard part and enjoying the capabilities! I have a 50 mile one way commute on the Autobahn. I have bounced it off of the speed limiter for a nice long distance numerous times. (150-151 mph)

So back to my question, did you reset the computer?

 

I've read that it is as simple as disconnecting the battery.

 

I'm guessing no, as I asked if he pulled his battery cable in the earlier thread about his diminished MPG.

edit: MY MPG sucks. i average 26 week to week. 27.5 cruise control downhill to san diego on the 5.

 

I didn't pull the battery cable, but the tune was reflashed, so technically the ECU was reset...

 

I think the important thing here is resetting the ECU adaptations. I am not sure that reflashing the ECU does that. I know it can be done with a GT1 computer, but that is out of the reach of most every consumer.

 

Don't forget (BostonR56S and David in Germany) US gallons and Euro gallons are different sizes. US gallons are smaller which means the MPG values are smaller.

Roughly 1 Gal (UK) = 1.2 Gal (US)

 

I know, I am an American living in Germany. Germans don't have gallons only liters. So I have to convert 2 times LOL.

 

The car seems OK now, mpg is back to my usual 27-28 with the AEM dryflow filter on it. But if it goes down again I may try the battery reset.

***On another note, anybody else here wanting the tune to have a linear throttle? What I mean by this is, our cars are Drive-By-Wire, and sometimes putting the throttle to the floor will still yield only 60% throttle by the computer. You may or may not have noticed this, but sometimes downshifting and punching it on the highway to pass a car, sometimes the car accelerates much faster than other times. In lamen terms, sometimes the car pushes me back into the seat, sometimes not.
This would be due to the drive by wire, as it evaluates your recent driving behavior to see if you're driving aggressively or not, and applies different sensitivities for the throttle.
One solution (that is a heated debate subject) is the Sprint Booster. Having driven a car with and without the sprint booster, I can vouch (for myself) that it makes a difference and gives a linear throttle response, such when you apply 100% throttle, you get 100% throttle. (Almost like a glorified sport button). This is definitely within the ECU maps and could be adjusted for in our tunes if the map is found.

It may take some time, but I'd rather have this first over the pop&burble. Is anyone else with me? If so, please reply with
'+1 for throttle response/linear throttle' so that Jan can keep track of how much interest there is in this, and start looking for the map and hopefully apply this to those who want it down the road.

So for me,

+1 for throttle response/linear throttle

 

Your idea sounds interesting but with Jan having already spent time and made progress on pop & burble I'd rather him finish up it up rather than starting down a new road on something completely unknown.

 

I would rather have a clean tune instead of worrying about some pop and burble sounds. If it doesnt help performance or the tune itself than in my opinion its not worth the time spent hacking around the bin file to put it into the tune. Waste of time resources that could be used to map out a few of the extra tables in the ecu bins that could actually yeild better hp and trq numbers.

 

I believe with it being in non-sport mode it is more linear than when in sport mode. I've tried a linear response with my automatic in non-sport mode and I actually prefer the non-linear response of the sport mode (which is more like what the Sprint Booster does). But then since I have an automatic I'm not subject to having to having to take my foot off the gas in order to shift so that impacts how it feels for me.

 

+100000
Wow, never figured out why people on here would rather have a car run like crap but sounds good. I think the priority should be smooth running, more power, and drivability.
If sound is all your looking for then upgrade your stereo.
Just my opinion.

 

The throttle response would be categorized under driveability. I feel this also has something to do with the hesitation, but I cannot say for sure of course.

Baiscally, I just want 100% throttle input(WOT) when I have my gas pedal to the floor, and basically, I don't always get that, because of the Drive By Wire system which has the ECU interpret what you want rather than your foot and gas pedal. I'm sure others agree with me here? Pedal to the floor should yield 100% throttle response, simple as that.

 

When did someone say something like that?

 

Boston, I agree with you. I just see a lot of post complaining about not having the pop and burble when the focus should be on driveability and performance.

Unfortunately, my car has been at the the dealer for a week now. I started it up and black smoke came pouring out the scoop. They replaced the HPFP but still have something wrong so they continue to work on it. Please enjoy driving your car while I wait for mine to return.

 

look back through the thread and there are a lot of complaints/requests about not getting the pop and burble. I get the impression that some people have their priorities a bit backwards

 

No kidding u want pop and burble throw it in your stereo and enjoy. How about no lift to shift, stutterbox, upgraded turbo maps, self tune interface etc...

I think the efforts could be focused on more useful things for the community. We have one of the weakest aftermarkets right now for hp/tq performance increases.

One of the biggest issues i have seen In the years of doing performance upgrades is having no self tune options. This in the end seems to severely cripple the growth of the aftermarket support. When the community has no option for diy the car never really grows into the monster it can be.

No turbo upgrade options(with tune). Limited engine internals.

 

I could have missed it but I can't find an instance of someone stating they wanted their car to run like crap. I got the impression that people were happy with their tunes and were looking to bring back a little something that made their cars unique and was lost in the transition between the R53 and R56. To each their own.

 

Its not that anyone said they "wanted" their car to run like crap. Don't take it word for word. Basically, there are issues that are trying to be addressed right now, such as 1st gear limiter boost/tq, hesitation under boost, rough idling, etc. However, even though some people have some if not all of these mentioned issues, they aren't focused on asking for a fix on this first, they are instead asking for pop and burble.

Even Jan has stated himself that he is focusing on driveability/power issues first before he digs into the pop and burble. For Thumper, Jan found the P&B file for him, but he also has the 1st gear limiter. He mentioned in an earlier post to someone else that wanted the P&B but didnt have the 1st gear limiter, that he would gladly trade the P&B for the 1st gear power. That is a rare occasion of mindset on this thread. I'm sure everyone wants power in 1st gear, but some people come off as wanting the p&b first.

Keep in mind that there are many different versions of map files, and each one needs to be dug through to find the p&b through testing, so its a long drawn out process that won't be yielding any improvements to our tunes.

Just speculation, but by the sounds of the P&B alta is giving in their tune, I think its just an adjustment in timing or something related of their actual map rather than unlocking the challenge version P&B, which is different imo, and in due time i'd rather have the challenge one, as it sounds much closer to the R53 p&b. The alta one has been described as a BOOM[detonation] rather than a pop, something not always desireable especially running with a cat as that can destroy it pretty quickly.

As always, just my own .02

 

He knows exactly where the P&B mapping is, and knows exactly how to get it to do it....so no worries. Like you said, he wants to get EVERYTHING else figured out before he throws on something as trivial as the P&B. Also, not sure if you saw my other post about my latest tune, but it fixes the non-linear nature of the throttle.

We spent all day just tuning for driveability, and in the end I'm darn certain we're making a lot more power as well. The throttle is very linear, the car is a lot easier to drive smoother, and the boost comes on very hard, yet in a very progressive nature. Kinda what you mentioned, it would sometimes come on hard, sometimes it wouldnt...you really never knew what it was going to do. And a lot of the time it would instantly boost up to 18psi when you only were putting down maybe half throttle, which made driving it smoothly a challenge. All those problems have been fixed.

 

I'm for smoother and shifts. Pop and burble doesn't do anything for me . Sorry guys . My factory jcw just sounds like back firing. The latest file I got back from jan has helped . Car is smoother and less back fires. Performance rules. I had a 2010 gti gun it around me yesterday . Anybody know what a new tuned gti is putting down for hp?

 

They put down about 205-210whp and about 230 wtrq...

They make huge gains with software too....APR quotes its numbers, with just a chip, as 224whp & 294 wtq . It's a fun motor!

Not to mention you have a huge range of turbo kits made for the car, which put out some massive power