Drivetrain BSH catch can and dual boost port install
#476
Actually, that white gunk is the reaction between oil vapor and water, which is likely due to condensation based on your driving habits and environment. Are you driving short trips? If so those short trips are not allowing the engine to properly get to running temp and the condensation (due to the high humidity in Washington) is not 'burning' off.
- Erik
- Erik
#478
Czar had a post ,Seafoam Effects, that made an awful lot of sense. I have the dual boost port, and I adapted a fitting that when the time came, I was going to do the Seafoam treatment. After reading Czars post, I removed said fitting.
I've had a BSH catch can since day one, and if I feel or see the need to remove the carbon buildup, I'll just pull the head and do a proper job of it. Good luck.
I've had a BSH catch can since day one, and if I feel or see the need to remove the carbon buildup, I'll just pull the head and do a proper job of it. Good luck.
#479
Did my first drain on with the BSH oil catch can yesterday:
Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
Current Date: 9/10/2011
Current Mileage: 9107 miles
Miles since Last Emptied: 567 miles
Notes:
- first time to drain out since installation; only removed ~0.5 ounce of oil
- found out that oil crankcrase was overfilled appoximately ~0.3 quart for first ~250 miles of driving
- removed excessive oil and catch can level seemed to not increase; will confirm with future driving with crankcase filled to proper level
- no water condensation found in mixture
Observation: being in Colorado where the weather stays significantly dry, there was no water condensation within the can, rubber lines, or the oil mixture. Car is driven on 20+ min trips with no short trip occurding to make sure engine is up to running temp for a good portion of being out. It was noted that the oil level was higher than the max reading on dip stick, and oil had been collecting right away in the OCC. After removing the excess oil in the crankcase, it appeared that the level (through the OCC dipstick) never increased after such. To confirm, I'll follow up with results making sure the crankcase is not overfilled.
My preliminary thoughts: overfilled crankcases could be part of the reason of intake valve carbon build-up.
- Erik
Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
Current Date: 9/10/2011
Current Mileage: 9107 miles
Miles since Last Emptied: 567 miles
Notes:
- first time to drain out since installation; only removed ~0.5 ounce of oil
- found out that oil crankcrase was overfilled appoximately ~0.3 quart for first ~250 miles of driving
- removed excessive oil and catch can level seemed to not increase; will confirm with future driving with crankcase filled to proper level
- no water condensation found in mixture
Observation: being in Colorado where the weather stays significantly dry, there was no water condensation within the can, rubber lines, or the oil mixture. Car is driven on 20+ min trips with no short trip occurding to make sure engine is up to running temp for a good portion of being out. It was noted that the oil level was higher than the max reading on dip stick, and oil had been collecting right away in the OCC. After removing the excess oil in the crankcase, it appeared that the level (through the OCC dipstick) never increased after such. To confirm, I'll follow up with results making sure the crankcase is not overfilled.
My preliminary thoughts: overfilled crankcases could be part of the reason of intake valve carbon build-up.
- Erik
#480
These pics are with the use of a hemostat to control ingestion. I have since picked up a small "air" valve that's used on aquariums.
#481
Overfilling your car with oil becomes a problem when the level of the oil reaches the spinning crankshaft. The crankshaft can whip the oil into a foam, which your oil pump does enjoy, which means your engine will not be getting the oil it needs to protect itself.
There's not some magical level of the oil beyond which fumes are pulled through the PCV system. In fact, most of the fumes that cause carbon build-up problems by way of the PCV system are blow-by fumes that are already suspended in the air within the crankcase; not fumes rising off oil sitting in the pan.
I understand your observations, but I assure you it's coincidence, nothing more.
#482
#483
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Brisbane,Great Southern Land
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Looking at the instructions for the BSH dual boost port,they don't seem to show that the PCV hose can be blocked off which is the whole point of installing it for use solely for the catch can.Am I missing something?
All I want is to block off the PCV hose,not install a boost gauge which seems to be the point of the Dual Boost Tap.
All I want is to block off the PCV hose,not install a boost gauge which seems to be the point of the Dual Boost Tap.
Last edited by teamrodney; 09-12-2011 at 03:30 PM.
#484
#485
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Brisbane,Great Southern Land
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I have just received two BSH catch cans.Whilst one seems ok,the other does not seem to seal properly where the dip stick enters the can.The o ring seems loose as the hole must be too large. The other can has a very tight fit for the dipstick entering the can.Very unhappy with the quality since postage return from Australia is not cheap. Have yet to take this up with BSH.
I was also under the impression that the can had some sort of baffling to facilitate condensation of the oil vapour.It seems to me that vapour entering one hole and being pushed out an adjacent hole will not allow full settling of any suspended oil vapours
I was also under the impression that the can had some sort of baffling to facilitate condensation of the oil vapour.It seems to me that vapour entering one hole and being pushed out an adjacent hole will not allow full settling of any suspended oil vapours
#486
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Brisbane,Great Southern Land
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#487
Used BSH OCC and tap in marketplace
In case anyone is looking for a BSH OCC and boost tap for the 2007-2010 MCS, I put mine up for sale in the marketplace https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/marketplace/showproduct.php/product/20862 for $140 shipped.
It worked fine, just took it off in preparation to sell my MINI. The need for more doors and the warranty security blanket means she has to go. Countryman? Possibly...
It worked fine, just took it off in preparation to sell my MINI. The need for more doors and the warranty security blanket means she has to go. Countryman? Possibly...
Last edited by Maurtis; 09-28-2011 at 06:36 AM.
#488
I have had my OCC for a year now. I took the duel port plug out and found this.
The color is off a little. It is rust. Looks bad to me. Seems like it could have been made of stainless steel as it gets moisture but not oil where it is at.
I removed the plug and left the rest as is. I was thinking about doing that anyway as I now have a Aqumist system.
The color is off a little. It is rust. Looks bad to me. Seems like it could have been made of stainless steel as it gets moisture but not oil where it is at.
I removed the plug and left the rest as is. I was thinking about doing that anyway as I now have a Aqumist system.
#491
Yes, that had occurred to me as the easiest and cheapest solution. However, I found my BSH can didn't catch as well as I would have liked. I put the can on at around 1000 miles, and when I upgraded my intercooler at around 8000, I found oil basically everywhere. Intake, turbo, stock intercooler, etc. I'm not sure why that would be so, but I've been looking at swapping catch cans for a while. I'm just not sure whether or not I want to attach it to the passenger side, or put it on the drivers side and use the boost tap again only to take it off for track days or something. Too bad, because I liked the BSH can a lot.
#492
Yes, that had occurred to me as the easiest and cheapest solution. However, I found my BSH can didn't catch as well as I would have liked. I put the can on at around 1000 miles, and when I upgraded my intercooler at around 8000, I found oil basically everywhere. Intake, turbo, stock intercooler, etc. I'm not sure why that would be so, but I've been looking at swapping catch cans for a while. I'm just not sure whether or not I want to attach it to the passenger side, or put it on the drivers side and use the boost tap again only to take it off for track days or something. Too bad, because I liked the BSH can a lot.
#493
Yep. I did that pretty religiously due to all of the bad things that would happen should the can get too full. I never let it get more then halfway full at any time. I'm not saying that what happened to me is the norm, and I know there are lots and lots of people who have this can without issues. This was just my experience.
#494
Even a good Oil Catch Can would never "catch" all oil and vapor.
So, one will still have some corbonized oil in the intake - might be just less than without occ.
Seen this already?
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
So, one will still have some corbonized oil in the intake - might be just less than without occ.
Seen this already?
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
Last edited by minti; 10-09-2011 at 10:37 AM.
#495
Even a good Oil Catch Can would never "catch" all oil and vapor.
So, one will still have some corbonized oil in the intake - might be just less than without occ.
Seen this already?
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
So, one will still have some corbonized oil in the intake - might be just less than without occ.
Seen this already?
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
But implementing it points all the oily crankcase fumes toward the turbo and intercooler. It should never be done without a catch can on that line. But even then, as you point out, oily vapors will still get through... and, depending on the efficiency of the catch can, it may (maybe, maybe not) end up being more oil that gets trapped in the intercooler than before, since now it doesn't only see that outward flow when under boost, but at all times.
All things being the same, however, I'd probably still rather blow liquid out of the intercooler than scrape crusties from the intake ports.
#496
OEM cover plugs/caps
So what you're saying is that the dealers carry plugs/caps to seal off the port where the pcv is located in the manifold? Do you have part numbers by any chance? And do you know if they are available at any of the after-market sites? I will do some digging and report back in case you do not have the info.
Sounds better than buying the boost tap either way. Thanks.
Sounds better than buying the boost tap either way. Thanks.
You're welcome; good luck on yours and would love to see your final product.
And as DneprDave correctly put, the other end of the hose is already attached to the intake manifold.
It's technically a "dead" volume space if you're not hooking up a gauge.
Yes, the hose could be removed thanks to czar's detailed help.
But you wouldn't use the boost tap; instead there are OEM cover plugs for the valve cover and intake manifold.
- Erik
And as DneprDave correctly put, the other end of the hose is already attached to the intake manifold.
It's technically a "dead" volume space if you're not hooking up a gauge.
Yes, the hose could be removed thanks to czar's detailed help.
But you wouldn't use the boost tap; instead there are OEM cover plugs for the valve cover and intake manifold.
- Erik
#497
So what you're saying is that the dealers carry plugs/caps to seal off the port where the pcv is located in the manifold? Do you have part numbers by any chance? And do you know if they are available at any of the after-market sites? I will do some digging and report back in case you do not have the info.
Sounds better than buying the boost tap either way. Thanks.
Sounds better than buying the boost tap either way. Thanks.
#498
#499
#500
MINI probably won't have any on-hand, but should be able to order them. The intake manifold is unchanged from the N14 engine to the N18 engine, but the N18 internalizes that PCV line to the valve cover, ditching the hose. MINI uses this cap to plug that unused port on the intake manifold of all N18 engines.