On speaking to Clint at DoS it seems I need two pipe plugs and there was only 1 supplied and 1 mentioned in the BSH pdf so hopefully will be getting another one sent to me so that I can fit my OCC.

Shame the BSH instructions are not clearer but great service from Clint.

 

Just a heads up for those that have the same goofy setup that I have. K&N cold air kit and JCW strut bar.. it fits, but it's a tight squeeze and your best bet is to mount it where the original cold air inlet goes. The firewall works, but the outlet hose rubs against the strut bar and the hard plastic line. K&N has also done a fantastic job of orienting the pcv line inlet (to the air intake) slightly off from the factory and the JCW units.. making it more awkward.



I'm gonna go buy some hose and some clamps and put it in the other location.

Heres a look at the mini fini grille too.

 

I would avoid moving that OCC to the other location if you can. That way you can preserve the factory air inlet tube and keep your OCC in a cooler part of the engine bay (away from the coolant overflow bottle).

You should be able to secure the outlet hose to the inlet hose with a cable tie if it's being a little unwieldy. This will pull the hose downward and away from your strut bar. Unfortunately, that plastic line is a problem child on even the cleanest of installs.

Shortening the outlet hose and running it under the plastic line might also help with the rubbing issue, but I can't tell from the camera angle in the pics if you have any wiggle room to do so.

My $0.02. Hope this helps.

-Clint

 

Thanks Clint. I tried about five different hose lengths and windings to get it to work this way. The issue is the change in the K&N supplied silicon elbow and the angle in which the PCV system goes into it. Maybe time to switch up intakes?

 

Might indeed be time to switch-up intakes. I definitely have a recommendation if you do.

Before you take any drastic steps, I'd still try attaching that non-cooperative outlet hose to the intake hose with a cable tie as close to the valve cover as possible. It might pull the outlet hose down suitably & tidy things up.

One last thing that might be useful. I found a pretty cool 5/8" X 90 degree PCV elbow from Dorman today.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24075-47043.aspx
They had it at my local auto parts store. I'm going to keep a few in my toolbox for unusual OCC install conditions like yours.

Definitely report back once you decide how you're going to resolve this conundrum. I'm sure you'll come up with a fix.

-Clint

 

I have the boost tap currently installed in full-block mode and am possibly doing a reconsider. I am prob going to install a second OCC since I have several already and then observe what the effect (or lack of effect) really is, since I am beginning to suspect that excessive sump pressure is being generated. The N14 had two pipes for a reason and think I'm possibly seeing some valve cover gasket outgassing because of it, If I go this route I will try to post observations.

 

Need some help after long extensive searching on NAM for a solution.... I've installed a BSH CC and Dual Boost Port for approximately 5 months and have been been noticing what I think is a smelly oil smell blowing through the vents. At first, the smell creeps up on occasion, but if driving longer, the smell increases and a lot stronger. It doesn't smell like an exhaust leak, but rather a hot oil smell, similar to as if you take the oil fill cap off to add oil. Is this normal for the oil smell to be coming through the vents all the time? or do I do something wrong? any ideas or fixes? It's a PIA that I have to drive with the windows down or at least cracked to get rid of the smell. It's not super strong but enough to be annoying.

 

This may be redundant, but have you checked to be sure all your connections are tight, and that any ports in the can and the port are capped?
I put hose clamps on all the hose ends, even though they do fit rather snugly, I purchased clamps that are 3/4" in wide. It would also be a good idea to put either teflon tape or paste on all the threads on the caps. I use a paste, though the tape will also work, that is made for steam pipes so the temp resistance is more than high enough to work.
Good luck.

 

Yes, all hoses to and from the can have been clamped and no visual signs of leaks anywhere.

 

When you installed the port, did you reattach the hose from that side or did you cap the the port/opening where the other end of the hose was connected?
Though rather unlikely if the hose is still in use did you check that lower connection point to be sure it is still OK?

 

I installed the port and basically reattached the hose and never touched the other end which should still be connected (Will check tomorrow when it stops raining). I pretty much followed BSH instructions as well as all the other posts on NAM.

 

You capped the port though right, before attaching the hose back? (on the passenger side)

 

I reattached the hose on the passenger side to the back of the boost tap. Was I suppose to cap it first?


Yes I capped the boost tap itself with the PCV Port Blockoff Plug that was included.

 

Well it sounds as if you've covered all the bases, which I figured you had, was just wanting to review things. Sometimes that makes something click when we rethink it and/or do a visual inspection...
Don't know what else to say, I have not noticed any oil smell since installing the can and port.
Maybe someone else will chime in with other suggestions...

 

Have you been accumulating much fluid in the can? I live in Buffalo, and we have had some cold mornings the last few weeks, and I was suprised how much was in the can. Over the summer I would get less than an ounce per week, but the last few weeks I have gotten about 4 ounces per week.

How do you drain the can?

One of the above posts was asking if you blocked off the passenger side port. Many people block off the boost port (the main bore is threaded). Your install looks identical to mine.

Mine also has a hot oil smell, but only when I get on it and get things hot. I figure it is from a small leak that I have not found. When I drive normally, there are no odd smells.

Sorry, I don't have a solution for you, just a few more questions.

Mike

 

I use a battery filler, from Harbor Freight, to suck the liquid, through the dipstick hole, from the catch can.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ttery%20filler

When I ordered the BSH oil catch can, I didn't have a boost gage, so I requested an extra plug, when I ordered it, there was no charge for it.

I also get a lot more goop in the can when the weather is cool.

I haven't had a hot oil smell, even though I have no hose clamps on the installation.

Dave

 

Thanks John, greatly appreciate your assistance.

Mike, I too have had minimal amounts through out the summer. I use a syringe to siphon out what I believe to be a less then an ounce each time. I've been checking religiously for any accumulation.

Looks like I will do a re-install tomorrow. Just one of those days where I have no choice but to question whether I installed correctly or not.

 

I haven't been on this thread in awhile but, I have the BSH OCC and I have done the block off on the other side of the PCV system. I am thinking of unblocking the port out of the valve cover and running it into the OCC with a splitter so that there is 2 intake ports and the one out going. I am just trying to figure out if this would be a good idea?

 

Porthos, I dont think I would recommend mixing them like that, you may get some strange pressure differentials and/or flow patterns. I have a second pass. side BMW orig. PCV tube on-order right now that I am going to do some experimenting with and possibly have a two-can kit available to supplement the single-can kit that is going on-line in the next week or so.

Danny, your smell may be your valve cover gasket leaking, Im replacing mine tomorrow, its starting to seep and smoke off at stoplights sometimes, same symptoms, hot oily smell in the cabin w/ the fan on. I would check it, they are known for going face-down in the alley between 60 and 80K. Im at 81.4 right now. Supposedly the replacements are a Gen2 design that has better materials and/or fitment.

 

Thanks Clubman S. Turbo! I have an 09 with approx. 45k registered. Time to research and read all I can about gasket replacement.

 

I am definitely not going to route it through the way it is intended though because I just don't want to risk more carbon buil up.

 

...Just an update. While replacing the valve gasket, I didn't notice any leaks whatsoever. Valve gasket replaced and hot oil smell is not an issue in the cabin anymore, although after a long drive and upon opening the bonnet, you can still smell it from the outside. Also replaced the spark plugs at 45k and notice a real difference with the acceleration. A big thanks to all that helped!!!

 

Lolz!! I just did mine too. I also need to get the boost tap now because I put a Forge BOV on it and the original port is not taken up. The PCV system goes up into the valve cover and not from the camshafts straight to the hole. So I could not tell if was blocked up or anything. The new valve cover is different. It has some hole in the back by the intake which is weird because it gave me a piece to block it off with.

 

Hey, nice looking strut brace. Who made it? I can't quite make out the name on it.

 

GT Spec