Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain BSH catch can and dual boost port install

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  #51  
Old 03-14-2010, 04:25 PM
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make a double catch can, weld the two together at a single mounting point, 4 ports, left side goes to passenger side, right side goes to driver side, keep them separate so the blow through system would work right, and poof (i'm sooo patenting that idea before someone makes one hahahhaa )
 
  #52  
Old 03-14-2010, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
Sounds like the best way, would be a dual (and independent) catch can way.
We need some sweet combined, dual can made up haha
Originally Posted by dunphyj
make a double catch can, weld the two together at a single mounting point, 4 ports, left side goes to passenger side, right side goes to driver side, keep them separate so the blow through system would work right, and poof (i'm sooo patenting that idea before someone makes one hahahhaa )
you owe me royalties.
 
  #53  
Old 03-14-2010, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NAProf
Hi,
IMHO you don't need a catch can. You could do as well or better by running something like BG44K, Techron Fuel additive, or the BMW Fuel System Cleaner (part # 82 140413341) every third tank of gas. The reason is that the NA R56 engine (designated N12 engine) injects the gas into the intake manifold. The air gas mixture then is sucked into the cylinder. This allows all the cleaning additives in the fuel to clean the intake manifold and the backside of the intake valves.

The R56 S engine (designated N14) is a direct-injection engine. Here the fuel is injected into the cylinder and is mixed with the air in the cylinder. This means no fuel to clean the intake and the back side of the valves. Thus the PCV discharge can cause harmful buildup in this engine.

So for the $150 for a good catch can you can get a bunch of Techron (not so much BG44K, aka liquid gold) and won't have to worry about emptying a catch can.

Cheers,
Greg
Despite the N12 not having direct injection based on my experiences having pulled the heads off a few N12 engines including my own the need for a pcv filtering system is a must.
 
  #54  
Old 03-14-2010, 06:55 PM
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.............waiting to hear the response to Greg's post on the first page (#47).
 
  #55  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
Greg thanks for clearing that up. Personally I want to avoid oil buildup in the intercooler at all costs mainly, and am also not comfortable closing a line off. I put mine on the Drivers side line about a week ago. We'll see how much i get!... I do DD the car alot, and hit boost quite a bit too lol..

Sounds like the best way, would be a dual (and independent) catch can way.
We need some sweet combined, dual can made up haha
You need to keep in mind that in the factory orientation a line is closed off. It just depends on when. The second the car enters boost the check valve in the valve cover closes and all gasses are directed out the side port. This is exactly how our system functions.

The side port is vacuum based, thus is always open since there is at worse atmospheric pressure in the plumbing its connected too.
 
  #56  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by NAProf
Hey Iwashmycar,
Now you are getting into a somewhat tricky area - how does the MINI PCV system really work? I have been looking into this for a couple of weeks and I think I have a pretty good idea, but am going to confirm it with a Ph.D. automotive engineer at work (who used to do design work for Ford on their engines).

The two lines are part of the same system, but they perform generally different functions. For a PVC system to work the way it is suppose to there needs to be a line which brings clean air in, and a line which discharges the blow-by gas, oil vapor, water vapor, etc. The "air in" line needs to be after the MAF on our cars otherwise the ECU would be incorrectly accounting for air in the intake. The primary purpose of the line on the driver's side (from the side of the valve cover to the turbo inlet) is to SUPPLY fresh air to the crank case. The air is then circulated through the crank case, picks up moisture, blow-by gas, etc, and DISCHARGES out the line on the passanger side of the crank case that leads to the intake manifold.

This route work most of the time because at idle the intake manifold is at about 10 psi of vacuum and the turbo inlet side is at a higher pressure (or less vacuum if you will). As you increase rpm the pressure in the intake manifold rises. At some point with increasing rpm the pressure approaches atmospheric (if you have a Scangage II you will see a MAP pressure of around 14 psi absolute). There is a "PCV type" valve in the cylinder head cover on the passanger side line (the discharge line) which closes to keep the higher pressure air (and any potential backfire) from coming into the crankcase. When this happens, the line on the driver's side, which has been acting as an air supply line, now becomes the discharge line. It can do this because the pressure in front of the turbo decreases with increasing flow rate into the turbo as the rpm go up.

So, to answer your question, the only time the line going to the turbo discharges is when the manifold pressure is around or above atmospheric, which means as your boost goes up. If you have a boost gage you will see that this only happens at very high rpm and wheel loading. So if you are racing, the driver's side line sees more duty as the discharge side. For normal driving it doesn't do it very often or for very long.

There have been several folks posting on different threads here who installed their cans the way m7 tells them to (in the driver's side line) and find it doesn't catch much. As I said in an earlier post my can (in the passanger's side line) caught almost 10 oz of fluid in 500 miles.

Now BSH has a proposed system where they plug the line going from the passanger's side to the manifold and put the catch can on the driver's side line. This effectively make the PCV system a one line system and will catch ALL of the fluid ALL of the time. Sounds good, but I am uncomfortable with that idea for one reason. They are defeating the normal operation of the PCV system. Everything I've read on PCV systems say that you need to have an "air in" source to scour the crank case of vapors and that choked or clogged air inlet lines can lead to trouble.
From what I can tell the BSH guys work very hard at getting a good prouduct out and they seem to be very responsive to customer needs. I hope they will also look into this and check on the effects of running a one line PCV system for extended periods.

Sorry for the long response, but getting paid to profess for as long as I have makes me do it even when I don't have to.
Cheers,
Greg
We have been using this exact system for going on three years. It is something we originally brought to market in the VW community which has an identical PCV system in both operation and layout as the R56 cooper. This design has proven so affective it has become the single most copied part we make. Even 42DD styled a system for the motor that is identical to ours in terms of layout.
 
  #57  
Old 03-15-2010, 11:38 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply!

Originally Posted by BSH Speedshop
We have been using this exact system for going on three years. It is something we originally brought to market in the VW community which has an identical PCV system in both operation and layout as the R56 cooper. This design has proven so affective it has become the single most copied part we make. Even 42DD styled a system for the motor that is identical to ours in terms of layout.
BSH,
Thanks for getting back to the forum on this topic. I didn't think you guys were a fly-by-night organization and figured you had looked into this. I am glad to know that your experiences with VW's doing the same thing has no apparent problems. The purpose of my long winded response to Iwashmycar's inquiry was to hopefully clarify the issues and prompt discussion.

So I also talked to my Ph.D. automotive engineer guy today and his response was a bit fuzzy. He said that blocking off the PCV intake air shouldn't be a problem, it's just that the PCV system won't work quite as well. In particular he said that one of the purposes of the fresh air was to pick up moisture from the crankcase when the engine was cold (any moisture which condensed since shutoff), but it only does that for a very brief period. As soon as the oil is up to temp all the moisture in the crank case exists as water vapor and gets sucked out with the blowby gases. Other than that the air supply just makes the process of gathering gases more efficient. He concluded by saying he didn't think there would be any big problems with working the PCV system this way.

Cheers,
Greg
 

Last edited by NAProf; 03-15-2010 at 11:40 AM. Reason: Fixed typos
  #58  
Old 03-17-2010, 06:11 PM
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I got the updated version of the catch can today.

For the new ones They've changed the diameter of the drain plug hole, and put in a nice drain plug with an O-ring.

Now the can is perfect IMO
 

Last edited by 09MellowJCW; 03-17-2010 at 07:30 PM.
  #59  
Old 03-17-2010, 07:26 PM
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Well, hell, I just got my catch can & dual port tap from BSH, and it's the old style. I really don't like the drain hole being a straight pitch thread. I'd rather have a pipe thread where I couls screww in an AN fitting.
 
  #60  
Old 03-18-2010, 07:35 AM
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BSH

Will all the cans have the new drain plug setup in them from now on?

Thanks
 
  #61  
Old 03-18-2010, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by zooki
Well, hell, I just got my catch can & dual port tap from BSH, and it's the old style. I really don't like the drain hole being a straight pitch thread. I'd rather have a pipe thread where I couls screww in an AN fitting.
No problem, PM and we'll set up the best way to get you the new threading. No cost for the modification.

Originally Posted by newbs49
BSH

Will all the cans have the new drain plug setup in them from now on?

Thanks
Yes, all R53 and R56 Cans will have the new drain plug setup from now on.
 
  #62  
Old 03-21-2010, 03:26 PM
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question ? do you need the dual port tap to run the catch can? im not going to be putting a boost gauge on anytime soon. i would like all the oil and crap out of my intercooler.
 
  #63  
Old 03-21-2010, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ENGINE 58
question ? do you need the dual port tap to run the catch can? im not going to be putting a boost gauge on anytime soon. i would like all the oil and crap out of my intercooler.
No, you do not need to use the boost tap to use the catch can. You do need it to keep the carbon build up off the valves though. To keep the oil out of the intercooler you only need the can.
 
  #64  
Old 03-21-2010, 04:42 PM
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sorry for the noob comment, but would someone only install a occ when you track the car, or is this something that a daily driver engine can benefit from also? thanks...
 
  #65  
Old 03-21-2010, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sunman
sorry for the noob comment, but would someone only install a occ when you track the car, or is this something that a daily driver engine can benefit from also? thanks...
These cars are known for carbon buildup on the valves, and oil build up in the intercooler. I know, the sales person didn't tell me either...

To answer your question though, a street car will benefit from an OCC.
 
  #66  
Old 03-21-2010, 05:37 PM
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Cool thank you mellow fella. Looks like I will need this soon . I'm a high mileage comuter . Id like to keep it all clean.
 
  #67  
Old 03-21-2010, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 09MellowJCW
These cars are known for carbon buildup on the valves, and oil build up in the intercooler. I know, the sales person didn't tell me either...

To answer your question though, a street car will benefit from an OCC.
Looks like I will be getting this soon... Thanks.

Originally Posted by ENGINE 58
I'm a high mileage comuter . Id like to keep it all clean.
same here....
 
  #68  
Old 03-21-2010, 06:13 PM
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yeah im calling bsh tomorrow and getting the latest version .
 
  #69  
Old 03-21-2010, 06:42 PM
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Looks like I found my birthday present!
 
  #70  
Old 03-22-2010, 10:20 AM
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I think I finally have it all figured out (after reading through this thread, and especially NAProf's insightful posting).

It would seem that there is no downside to installing the dual boost port and blocking off the PCV outlet from the crankcase - but it DOES make me wonder why it's there in the first place if you can delete it with no consequences. I wasn't doubting BSH's engineering, just my ability to understand.

If all I want the dual boost gauge to do (at this time) is block off the PCV outlet, then I need to order an additional plug? Is this true?

Now, the question that I haven't quite figured out yet. How do you actually drain the OCC guys? The fitment seems pretty tight, and I'm sure that most of you don't just open the drain plug and let it drain through the engine compartment to the floor. So how are you draining it?

Cheers,
Raymond
 
  #71  
Old 03-22-2010, 12:23 PM
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Theyre pretty simple to remove from the car and drain, or at least keep the tubes attached and hold it over a bowl or something
 
  #72  
Old 03-22-2010, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mellanor
I think I finally have it all figured out (after reading through this thread, and especially NAProf's insightful posting).

It would seem that there is no downside to installing the dual boost port and blocking off the PCV outlet from the crankcase - but it DOES make me wonder why it's there in the first place if you can delete it with no consequences. I wasn't doubting BSH's engineering, just my ability to understand.

If all I want the dual boost gauge to do (at this time) is block off the PCV outlet, then I need to order an additional plug? Is this true?

Now, the question that I haven't quite figured out yet. How do you actually drain the OCC guys? The fitment seems pretty tight, and I'm sure that most of you don't just open the drain plug and let it drain through the engine compartment to the floor. So how are you draining it?

Cheers,
Raymond
The extra PCV hose, as it was explained to me, is there only so the Mini could pass the very strict underhood sniffer test. This, as I understand it, is not a test dine to the individual to pass emissions testing, but a test a manufacturer must pass to produce the car. Somebody correct me if I,m wrong here.

The boost port that I bought only came with one plug. I don't know if they now come with two or not.

The can attaches to the car with a single bolt. If you take it off you can just pick up the can, take out the plug, and drain it into a small container of your choosing. When I had it in the suggested location, I could drain it without even taking the hoses off the can.
 
  #73  
Old 03-25-2010, 01:59 AM
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Just bought mine a few minutes ago. Thanks everyone for the useful info.

Luan
 
  #74  
Old 03-25-2010, 04:58 AM
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Mine should arrive tomorrow. Based on the posts it looks like it will be a straightforward install.
 
  #75  
Old 03-25-2010, 10:34 PM
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Finally got time to do the BSH dual boost port while at AMVIV Custom Mini Shop did the install took a little bit longer then normal with the M7 Super AGS already installed but well worth it in the long run. I'll post pictures tomorrow
 


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