Drivetrain spark plugs eh?
#26
#27
The correct torque for spark plugs is 20 ft/lbs and should be done when the engine is cold. It would also be a good idea to recheck after a heat cycle. Their are many threads on here about blowing out a spark plug because they loosened up or were installed incorrectly. The torque requirement of these spark plugs is definitely ft/lbs and comes from both the Bently and Haynes manual. If you install your plugs in inch/lbs expect to be needing helicoil's soon. I sure wish people would check their information before posting something that may be catastrophic if followed. (yes, I know welcome to the internet)
Steve
Steve
I picked mine up from Sears. You don't really need to buy the special socket. I use a regular 12 point 14mm socket and stick a small piece of bubble wrap in it to hold the plug in place. It works great.
I have done the plugs twice now and no problem with the socket getting stuck. The torque spec is on the box if you get them from the dealer. I believe the spark plug is torque is around 25 inch pounds but DEFINITELY NOT FOOT POUNDS.
I have done the plugs twice now and no problem with the socket getting stuck. The torque spec is on the box if you get them from the dealer. I believe the spark plug is torque is around 25 inch pounds but DEFINITELY NOT FOOT POUNDS.
#28
The correct torque off the factory box is 23 newton meters, not 20 ft lbs. My error; I went back and checked the spec.
Bentley has not released a manual yet for the R56. Haynes also does not have a manual for the R56. Maybe the manuals referenced below are for the first generation MINIs.
Bentley has not released a manual yet for the R56. Haynes also does not have a manual for the R56. Maybe the manuals referenced below are for the first generation MINIs.
The correct torque for spark plugs is 20 ft/lbs and should be done when the engine is cold. It would also be a good idea to recheck after a heat cycle. Their are many threads on here about blowing out a spark plug because they loosened up or were installed incorrectly. The torque requirement of these spark plugs is definitely ft/lbs and comes from both the Bently and Haynes manual. If you install your plugs in inch/lbs expect to be needing helicoil's soon. I sure wish people would check their information before posting something that may be catastrophic if followed. (yes, I know welcome to the internet)
Steve
Steve
Last edited by scottab36; 04-18-2010 at 06:58 AM.
#29
The correct torque for spark plugs is 20 ft/lbs and should be done when the engine is cold. It would also be a good idea to recheck after a heat cycle. Their are many threads on here about blowing out a spark plug because they loosened up or were installed incorrectly. The torque requirement of these spark plugs is definitely ft/lbs and comes from both the Bently and Haynes manual. If you install your plugs in inch/lbs expect to be needing helicoil's soon. I sure wish people would check their information before posting something that may be catastrophic if followed. (yes, I know welcome to the internet)
Steve
Steve
#33
its funny cause 23 newton meters converts to 17 ft/lbs, not 16
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html
#35
I noticed on a JCW engine that a sticker said "JCW Tuning Kit Installed - change spark plugs every second oil change". I don't have a JCW MINI, but I have had mine performance-tuned, so do I need to follow a more aggressive spark plug replacement schedule? Also, should I think about upgraded sparks, or will the OEM ones still work fine?
#36
#37
There is no need if you are just simply wanting to remove the coil overs to get to the spark plugs, as you look head on at the coil over, you see the square block on top of the coil over, yes, you simple lift this up and away from yourself, this unlocks the connector, and you then simply remove the coil over, revealing the spark plug, simple.
#38
Yes it does, I'm wondering why you want to remove it?
There is no need if you are just simply wanting to remove the coil overs to get to the spark plugs, as you look head on at the coil over, you see the square block on top of the coil over, yes, you simple lift this up and away from yourself, this unlocks the connector, and you then simply remove the coil over, revealing the spark plug, simple.
There is no need if you are just simply wanting to remove the coil overs to get to the spark plugs, as you look head on at the coil over, you see the square block on top of the coil over, yes, you simple lift this up and away from yourself, this unlocks the connector, and you then simply remove the coil over, revealing the spark plug, simple.
(edited)
So, tried it, and yes, that makes it MUCH easier. Before I was pulling the entire assembly up, which pulled up the wire, tugging on that plastic cover, etc. Unhooking the wire from the connector first is far more elegant.
Thanks!
Last edited by EENY; 05-26-2010 at 12:47 PM.
#39
i'm having a tough time removing the connector. any advise? i see two holes for inserting a tool of sorts to release the side clips in order for the unit to "hinge up"....if that makes sense. I'd rather not force it obviously
EDIT: Figured it out, no worries. I was a little worried about the force required to lift the assembly off the spark plug, out of the engine but once it releases from the spark plug itself, along with a little "pop" all is good. Sweet.
EDIT: Figured it out, no worries. I was a little worried about the force required to lift the assembly off the spark plug, out of the engine but once it releases from the spark plug itself, along with a little "pop" all is good. Sweet.
#40
Doesnt Way Motor Works sell a set of Iridiums with a colder heat range?
http://www.waymotorworks.com/denso-i...ark-plugs.html
http://www.waymotorworks.com/denso-i...ark-plugs.html
Ummm...What are they smoking? $60 per plug. Wow....I put Densos in my Wifey's Lexus and they were $12 each.
#41
Part Number Part TypePrice EACore EA QuantityTotal 2008 MINI COOPER S 1.6L 1598cc L4 FI Turbo [N14B16A] DOHC NGK5992Spark Plug$ 11.96$ 0.004$ 47.84 ShippingPriority Mail$ 5.51 Order Total $ 53.35
Thanks all, just ordered from rockauto, I'm at 47K now
#43
went to Autozone and bought a $5.00 socket - Duralast15mm deep 6 point socket part # 75-315 and it fit just fine without grinding it down. did not even need to use tape or rubber insert to keep from falling out. It took no more than 10 mins and I was quickly reminded that the dealer put in free set at 20K, the old plugs looked just fine.
#44
NGK or Bosh. Sparkplugs.com Use the recommended plug. Modern ignition systems with spark impedance anti-knock do not like to have "wonder" plugs installed. It throws off the computer. It fires every time with stock. You won't do any better than every time.
I would never use a Champion even in a lawn mower. I have no gripe with AC, Autolite, or Denso, but I have heard the Denso criticism before.
Wise to change at 50. Book says 100 but that is BS and they usually will have seized into the head by then.
I would never use a Champion even in a lawn mower. I have no gripe with AC, Autolite, or Denso, but I have heard the Denso criticism before.
Wise to change at 50. Book says 100 but that is BS and they usually will have seized into the head by then.
#45
There's cheap ones w/ a rubber boot to hold the plug from AST or more expensive magnetic ones, like the one you can find on minimania & outmotoring (I think).
Spark plug "upgrades" are seldom upgrades, most oem coils and plugs far exceed the aftermarket replacements, but there are always new fad designs, remember split-fire plugs.
Best thing to do is seafoam your intake (see the big long threads on it), clear all the faults, and take the car for a rip. Assuming you have a good scantool (or stop by autozone/pepboys/napa/etc for a free scan), you can check for any mis-fire counts. If you do have some, it might be worth changing the plugs, otherwise, you're unlikely to see any gains from swapping them out beyond the placebo effect.
#46
Someone mentioned it already but I will again since its so important.
Many people with R53s (haven't heard a case on r56 yet) have had spark plugs blow out of the head. In EVERY single case I've seen the plugs had been installed by the owner and were usually aftermarket plugs.
Stay OEM and use your torque wrench. Repeat the torque a few hundred miles later.
Many people with R53s (haven't heard a case on r56 yet) have had spark plugs blow out of the head. In EVERY single case I've seen the plugs had been installed by the owner and were usually aftermarket plugs.
Stay OEM and use your torque wrench. Repeat the torque a few hundred miles later.
#47
Someone mentioned it already but I will again since its so important.
Many people with R53s (haven't heard a case on r56 yet) have had spark plugs blow out of the head. In EVERY single case I've seen the plugs had been installed by the owner and were usually aftermarket plugs.
Stay OEM and use your torque wrench. Repeat the torque a few hundred miles later.
Many people with R53s (haven't heard a case on r56 yet) have had spark plugs blow out of the head. In EVERY single case I've seen the plugs had been installed by the owner and were usually aftermarket plugs.
Stay OEM and use your torque wrench. Repeat the torque a few hundred miles later.
well now I have some idea why Mini made it so difficult for the average joe to R&R the spark plugs on the R56 (really, likely has more to do w/ the cramped space due to direct injection 'tho).
I was looking through my tool links, here's a relatively cheap socket for our (R56) plugs.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/asssp1412.html
#48