I got a 14mm 12point deep socket at lowes. no need to grind anything down, fit perfect. I just took the little rubber piece from a regular spark plug socket and put it inside. The torque spec is 23 newtonmeters or 16 foot lbs.

I got this info from the spark plug box from the dealer.

 

The correct torque for spark plugs is 20 ft/lbs and should be done when the engine is cold. It would also be a good idea to recheck after a heat cycle. Their are many threads on here about blowing out a spark plug because they loosened up or were installed incorrectly. The torque requirement of these spark plugs is definitely ft/lbs and comes from both the Bently and Haynes manual. If you install your plugs in inch/lbs expect to be needing helicoil's soon. I sure wish people would check their information before posting something that may be catastrophic if followed. (yes, I know welcome to the internet)
Steve

 

The correct torque off the factory box is 23 newton meters, not 20 ft lbs. My error; I went back and checked the spec.

Bentley has not released a manual yet for the R56. Haynes also does not have a manual for the R56. Maybe the manuals referenced below are for the first generation MINIs.

 

Some times we should take our own advise. There are no manuals for the R56, I just checked the Bently site. the proper torque spec is 23 newton meters or 16 foot lbs, as stated on the spark plug box purchased from the mini dealer.

 

Like this. And these are for the 2nd gen Mini turbo.

 

Use 6 point only.

I borrowed mine froma friend who works for Mini...

 

thank you all.

 

its funny cause 23 newton meters converts to 17 ft/lbs, not 16

http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html

 

23 newtonmeters= 16.963903763 foot pounds, you can round up or down.
the spec on the spark plug box actually says 23 +/- 3, so we are both correct.

 

I noticed on a JCW engine that a sticker said "JCW Tuning Kit Installed - change spark plugs every second oil change". I don't have a JCW MINI, but I have had mine performance-tuned, so do I need to follow a more aggressive spark plug replacement schedule? Also, should I think about upgraded sparks, or will the OEM ones still work fine?

 

I assume the small plastic cover in the front top of the engine covering the plug wires just snaps off? I gave mine a strong pull but it's holding fast, and before I settle in to do the job and yank harder I thought I'd better check.

 

Yes it does, I'm wondering why you want to remove it?
There is no need if you are just simply wanting to remove the coil overs to get to the spark plugs, as you look head on at the coil over, you see the square block on top of the coil over, yes, you simple lift this up and away from yourself, this unlocks the connector, and you then simply remove the coil over, revealing the spark plug, simple.

 

As I pulled up the square cover for the plug on the left along came about 6" of assembly beneath. Are you saying this square cover should disconnect and separate from the 6" of assembly beneath, so that first I remove the square cover, then afterwards the assembly beneath? That'd be nice...

(edited)
So, tried it, and yes, that makes it MUCH easier. Before I was pulling the entire assembly up, which pulled up the wire, tugging on that plastic cover, etc. Unhooking the wire from the connector first is far more elegant.

Thanks!

 

i'm having a tough time removing the connector. any advise? i see two holes for inserting a tool of sorts to release the side clips in order for the unit to "hinge up"....if that makes sense. I'd rather not force it obviously

EDIT: Figured it out, no worries. I was a little worried about the force required to lift the assembly off the spark plug, out of the engine but once it releases from the spark plug itself, along with a little "pop" all is good. Sweet.

 

Ummm...What are they smoking? $60 per plug. Wow....I put Densos in my Wifey's Lexus and they were $12 each.

 

Part Number Part TypePrice EACore EA QuantityTotal 2008 MINI COOPER S 1.6L 1598cc L4 FI Turbo [N14B16A] DOHC NGK5992Spark Plug$ 11.96$ 0.004$ 47.84 ShippingPriority Mail$ 5.51 Order Total $ 53.35


Thanks all, just ordered from rockauto, I'm at 47K now

 

you can get ngk laser iridiums as well, they go for about $12 a piece

 

went to Autozone and bought a $5.00 socket - Duralast15mm deep 6 point socket part # 75-315 and it fit just fine without grinding it down. did not even need to use tape or rubber insert to keep from falling out. It took no more than 10 mins and I was quickly reminded that the dealer put in free set at 20K, the old plugs looked just fine.

 

NGK or Bosh. Sparkplugs.com Use the recommended plug. Modern ignition systems with spark impedance anti-knock do not like to have "wonder" plugs installed. It throws off the computer. It fires every time with stock. You won't do any better than every time.

I would never use a Champion even in a lawn mower. I have no gripe with AC, Autolite, or Denso, but I have heard the Denso criticism before.
Wise to change at 50. Book says 100 but that is BS and they usually will have seized into the head by then.

 

get the proper 12point socket, it's a 12 point plug and most 6-point sockets will not fit down the spark plug well !

There's cheap ones w/ a rubber boot to hold the plug from AST or more expensive magnetic ones, like the one you can find on minimania & outmotoring (I think).

Spark plug "upgrades" are seldom upgrades, most oem coils and plugs far exceed the aftermarket replacements, but there are always new fad designs, remember split-fire plugs.
Best thing to do is seafoam your intake (see the big long threads on it), clear all the faults, and take the car for a rip. Assuming you have a good scantool (or stop by autozone/pepboys/napa/etc for a free scan), you can check for any mis-fire counts. If you do have some, it might be worth changing the plugs, otherwise, you're unlikely to see any gains from swapping them out beyond the placebo effect.

 

Someone mentioned it already but I will again since its so important.

Many people with R53s (haven't heard a case on r56 yet) have had spark plugs blow out of the head. In EVERY single case I've seen the plugs had been installed by the owner and were usually aftermarket plugs.

Stay OEM and use your torque wrench. Repeat the torque a few hundred miles later.

 

well now I have some idea why Mini made it so difficult for the average joe to R&R the spark plugs on the R56 (really, likely has more to do w/ the cramped space due to direct injection 'tho).

I was looking through my tool links, here's a relatively cheap socket for our (R56) plugs.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/asssp1412.html

 

Does anyone know the stock gap!!?? In another thread somebody mentioned NGK's specs are 0.032".

Based on this and other threads, it seems people just plop 'em in lol. I assume you'all at least make sure they're the same across the board first.

 

The stock NGK come pre set with a gap of 0.8mm (32 thou) this is correct for the N14B16 engine.

 

excellent, thank you