Ok so I am having a problem that seems to be pretty common but not exactly the same as the others. My car keeps throwing P0302 (misfire Cyl 2) upon startup but only if it is sitting in the sun for a couple hours. The traction control indicator light also comes on as well. So i checked the plugs wires coil and replaced the injectors but it still throws the codes. also, when it throws the codes it goes into limp mode. As soon as I reset the codes and restart the car it drives fine and doesnt throw the codes while driving. i have an msd coil, nology wires, denso plugs, fidanza flywheel, spec clutch, CIA, all pulleys, solid engine mounts, shark, and borla exhaust. i think thats it. Any help?

 

no suggestions huh? Well I am going to SEAFOAM it right now and see if that helps.

 

I'm not an expert by any means.....but I have had Nology Hot Wires in one of my previous cars (and I loved them). But the Hot Wires can be a little touchy with regards to grounding. I had a misfire when one of the grounds became loose (then I picked up some lock washers and problem solved). I had also run the recommended Silverstone plugs with the Hot Wires.

Right now I am running the MSD coilpack with the Magnacore wires and Brisk plugs and she runs very smooth (idles very smoothly too), but I do find the start is a little hard (takes a little longer to start the car now than before with the stock set up)....so I am thinking the it may be too much spark and not enough fuel?

So you may check your injectors...maybe your #2 is just getting old and needs a cleaning?

 

The shark is mostly just a timing advance...to much advance, or pulleys% and or the wrong octane fuel for the shark will likely get you a misfire. I would unshark it for a bit, and see how it runs.
If it continutes, it might be a mechanical issues...piston or maybe a head problem....

 

danno...i bought new jcw injectors and installed them.

it seems that the seafoam worked? I have found that if i turn the key to the on position and let it sit for about 5 seconds before starting it seems to not misfire.

 

how many miles does your car have on it? I know that in many cars when you turn to the on position the fuel pump primes and pressurizes the system. I know with one of my previous cars it was a sign if you needed to wait to turn the car over that the fuel filter was clogging.
So, It could be related to a fuel filter or pump. One idea

 

So i was thinking something like that, similar to a diesel engine priming/heating the glowplugs. I will check the fuel filter tomorrow. I am going down all the list of things that it could be before I actually crack the head (I really dont want to do, but will if i have to). I know that you can hear what might be the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key before the start. I am also going to un-shark the car to see what happens. The shark was one of the first mods on the car I did and i am thinking that a full tune is on order soon once I add a few more mods. the car has 118,019 on it. about 54k has been put on it since i started modding it 4 yrs ago

 

Please remember...the shark last time I checked was programmed with the timeing advance for a 15% pulley only....if you are running 17%, the extra heat/timing advance it uses can cause major problems. Please remember, that a car with a 15% pulley and crappy gas (aka west coast premium) will run with the factory timing retarted a bit due to heat, and the fuels octane...so the shark, in, as they state, allowing you car to better use high octane fuel, and undooing the de-tuning they say mini did to our motors to run typical us gas, especially if you have the 93 octane shark and are either not running 93, or are running a bigger reduction could cause a major issue.
The shark is not all bad...on BMW with turbo's it is fine...but on a mini (with a SC) there is so little they could adjust, it is mostly a timing advance and an ok canned tune.

The fact that using sea-foam helped shows, that in part, the pre-ignation/detonation may be caused by hot spots...hopefully from some carbon build-up.....

 

You mentioned you checked the plugs. What color were they ? Did they all look/appear the same ?

If you have fuel pressure issues from the pump/filter the pressure at the rail would be low across the board so more than one cylinder would be throwing a code.

Of course, after reading the mods you have.......

quote: "... i have an msd coil, nology wires, denso plugs, fidanza flywheel, spec clutch, CIA, all pulleys, solid engine mounts, shark, and borla exhaust..... "


That agency could be to blame as well Good luck !

 

I've been having the exact problem, misfire (p0300, p0301 or p0313) t/c light and limp mode not to mention having to be carefull to feather the pedal just right when starting from a stop. Mine started just after a big install and tune (RMW street header, NS2 Cam, 550cc injectors and Mynes tune) we've been racking our brains trying to figure this out, the only way I've been able to get the car to run semi-normal is to bring the rpm up between 1700 and 2000 immediately after the oil system pumps up and hold it there for 2 to 2 min. I agree that it almost has to be a fuel issue of some sort, I'm going to try and "prime" the system with the key like you did to see what happens. I was just about to swap injector positions to see if I could move the misfire position, but since you changed injectors with no change who knows what will happen. The only other thing that was suggested to me by Mike @ Mynes was to change the pre-cat O2 sensor (the post-cat was bad and changed right after the tune) he said that possibly because of the highflow cat there wasn't enough of a varience in the readings between the two and the ECU was trying to adapt to an issue that really wasn't there. (which of course also lends itself to the extra rpm @ start-up trick.) I'll keep experimenting too,

 

Was thinking about his lastnight, and I wonder if you may have an issue with one of the spark plugs....?

Did you try switching the spark plugs around and seeing if the code moves to a different cylinder ?

How did the Seafoam treatment go ?

 

I had missfire on cylinders 2 and 4 after I uploaded RMW tune. Took it to a shop and they found out something wrong with my DME which after I eventually had to replaced, and the missfires are gone. Uploaded RMW tune again and been running strong so far for a week.

 

Thank's one more thing to check, as far as trying to prime the system by turning the key 5 to 10 sec. before starting works the exact opposite for me, it almost wont run at all and I have to turn off the key and start all over. Won't have time to swap injectors or much else until next w/e

 

Seafoam didnt do anything. I have been out of the country for 2 weeks and when i fired the car back up it has thrown p0300, p302, and p0313 i the last day. i swapped the plugs and the same thing happened. Also today i left the car on when i went into the gas station and it was overheating when i got back after 3 mins! so i turned it off and let it sit for about 30 sec and started driving to get the fluid moving. It cooled down within 15 seconds. I am totally stumped.

 

Ok so the overheating thing is getting worse, i checked to see if the fan was aorking and it is. It is still overheating at stoplights even with the ac and high speed fan on. Maybe the thermostat? I bought completely new plugs and it hasnt thrown the missfire code though in the last couple starts. Kinda weird even when i switched the plugs in the past it threw the code. Any help?

 

Either it's your thermo or your water pump gears are toast.What's the mileage?

 

119k. I just looked up all the waterpump problems and I bet thats it. Well it looks like its time to take that baby off and replace it. I would like to check the supercharger also but I did have my clutch replaced about 30k ago and I am sure they took it off and replaced the oil. If I have the pump off however, there is a allen screw on the SC that will allow me to check the oil level correct?

 

Correct
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...13A0B7BC61C0F9

 

Do you think I should just go ahead and take the SC and check the components? I guess I will be that far anyways.

 

Well I am goint to replace the thermostat tonight due to that being the only part I can get in town. I will also order the fan so that I can replace it next week when i get back into town. Anyone have suggestions with their favorite coolent for minis?

 

For coolant, I would suggest using what you had in it...most likely BMW/Mini fluid (blue) or zyerex g-05 (the aftermarket equivalent) it is a bit of a hybird of the old stuff and the newer longlife stuff...makes it kinda unique.
One thing...it is very unlikly that the waterpump pto oil was checked during a clutch job, unless you paid for the extra 4 hours labor to do it...the SC/water pump would not normaly be touched for a clutch job....

 

Ok so today I am just removing the thermostat to see if that fixes the problem. I see on the website posted by oxy that you can chech the front reservore without removing the WP. My question is, can the back one be dry if the front is not?

 

Yes, they aren't connected. Once you pull the belt spin the SC pulley and have a listen for any rattling in the water pump.

 

The SC oil for Eaton Superchargers is avalable at most GM dealers...mini considers the unit to be non-serviceable, and does not sell/stock it...even the dealers go to GM to buy it!! Win for us since they sell/sold many cars with Supervhargers, and consider adding oil/changing it part of regular matainance.
One thing to consider...if the gears have any wear from running dry...don't just add oil..the unit must be pulled and the area cleaned throughly at the least, but an overhaul would strongly be recommended. Some places price the pto gears/overhaul seperate....so be sure to ask!!

 

One other thing...if this is indeed your issue, usually there is a lot of noise that is made as the gears grind up...clanking/dragging chains sound, maybe a bit of metal on metal scraping/high pitched noises. Heck the pto could be fine, might just be the waterpump!