Drivetrain Valve Spring Compression Tool Recommendations?
#1
Valve Spring Compression Tool Recommendations?
Can anyone recommend a valve spring compression tool which works well for the mini? I actually have the non S but this seems to be the only pure drive train forum.
If anyone has some positives and negatives of a few designs it would be appreciated.
Thanks
If anyone has some positives and negatives of a few designs it would be appreciated.
Thanks
#3
Thanks ACallahan,
Is the 4573 the one you are using?
4573 Link (I tried to attach a capture below):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=414940_0_0_
Link to entire list at AutoZone:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search
I also read on a BMW forum that they recommend suspending the head on wood blocks and using a rubber mallet to hit a socket situated on the spring retainer. That may work but won't work to reassemble.
Is the 4573 the one you are using?
4573 Link (I tried to attach a capture below):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=414940_0_0_
Link to entire list at AutoZone:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search
I also read on a BMW forum that they recommend suspending the head on wood blocks and using a rubber mallet to hit a socket situated on the spring retainer. That may work but won't work to reassemble.
#6
Thanks ACallahan,
Is the 4573 the one you are using?
4573 Link (I tried to attach a capture below):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=414940_0_0_
Link to entire list at AutoZone:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search
I also read on a BMW forum that they recommend suspending the head on wood blocks and using a rubber mallet to hit a socket situated on the spring retainer. That may work but won't work to reassemble.
Is the 4573 the one you are using?
4573 Link (I tried to attach a capture below):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=414940_0_0_
Link to entire list at AutoZone:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search
I also read on a BMW forum that they recommend suspending the head on wood blocks and using a rubber mallet to hit a socket situated on the spring retainer. That may work but won't work to reassemble.
That is the compressor I used yes, the spark plug tubes give you a little grief but it works fine.
#7
Thanks Acallahan.
I like the one jHiggs showed because it looks as if there is a little more space to work with the keepers and I am a little leery of ones that grab the spring for leverage. I found it for $43 on Amazon plus $8 shipping.
I am in Poland currently and so I thought I could find the same thing here. I found a couple similar, closest one by Jonnesway AI020025, but it actuates from both sides (stability??) and does not specify the valve retainer diameter it was designed for. I also found a C-Clamp style (tool pictured in the red case) but I believe it says it has a maximum opening of 100mm and, without trying it, the Mini head is too close to tell. I measured mine and the casting was basically 100mm. I couldn’t figure out an easy way to measure over the length of the valve. I like the C-Clamp style because it cages designed specifically for certain retainer diameters which means it is not likely to slip off under compression. I’ve had my finger tips hit by springs letting loose on old school motors while installing keepers. Here are captures of the two I found.
Has anyone used either of these?
I like the one jHiggs showed because it looks as if there is a little more space to work with the keepers and I am a little leery of ones that grab the spring for leverage. I found it for $43 on Amazon plus $8 shipping.
I am in Poland currently and so I thought I could find the same thing here. I found a couple similar, closest one by Jonnesway AI020025, but it actuates from both sides (stability??) and does not specify the valve retainer diameter it was designed for. I also found a C-Clamp style (tool pictured in the red case) but I believe it says it has a maximum opening of 100mm and, without trying it, the Mini head is too close to tell. I measured mine and the casting was basically 100mm. I couldn’t figure out an easy way to measure over the length of the valve. I like the C-Clamp style because it cages designed specifically for certain retainer diameters which means it is not likely to slip off under compression. I’ve had my finger tips hit by springs letting loose on old school motors while installing keepers. Here are captures of the two I found.
Has anyone used either of these?
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#8
Head is disassembled
I bought the Jonnesway tool which was the closest one I could find to the one jhiggs used. The difference being the Jonnesway actuates from both sides (see picture from my previous post). It is extremely heavy duty but a little cumbersome.
Assuming the keepers are magnetic I would use a magnet to get the keepers out if I did it again. I didn't think to bring one with me so I was using angled needle nose pliers. The tool did touch the spark plug tubes. The diameter of the plunger which sits on the spring retainer I expect will make it a little challenging to assemble the keepers but I don't officially know that yet.
There were no instructions with it. At first I thought the tool could be adjusted to the proper opening and then I could simply actuate one or both of the clamps. I could not compress the spring enough like that and instead I needed to adjust it slightly open and finish it by turning the screw, 3 to 4 turns, to compress to a final position sufficient to remove the keepers.
The tool felt secure all of the time. The plunge on the retainer side is trapped from sliding off the spring retainer by the valve stem. I have used “old school” tools and had them release suddenly and so I am cautious about placement of my fingers and my head when I do something like this.
One other thing I did was I put every spring/ valve/ retainer/ keeper set in its own envelope so I could install them exactly where they were removed. Since the cam opens the intake and exhaust valves a different amount I thought it would be best to keep the springs where they were originally. Probably best to replace the springs but I have not investigated this yet and the head had relatively low miles.
Thanks again jhiggs and acallahan
Assuming the keepers are magnetic I would use a magnet to get the keepers out if I did it again. I didn't think to bring one with me so I was using angled needle nose pliers. The tool did touch the spark plug tubes. The diameter of the plunger which sits on the spring retainer I expect will make it a little challenging to assemble the keepers but I don't officially know that yet.
There were no instructions with it. At first I thought the tool could be adjusted to the proper opening and then I could simply actuate one or both of the clamps. I could not compress the spring enough like that and instead I needed to adjust it slightly open and finish it by turning the screw, 3 to 4 turns, to compress to a final position sufficient to remove the keepers.
The tool felt secure all of the time. The plunge on the retainer side is trapped from sliding off the spring retainer by the valve stem. I have used “old school” tools and had them release suddenly and so I am cautious about placement of my fingers and my head when I do something like this.
One other thing I did was I put every spring/ valve/ retainer/ keeper set in its own envelope so I could install them exactly where they were removed. Since the cam opens the intake and exhaust valves a different amount I thought it would be best to keep the springs where they were originally. Probably best to replace the springs but I have not investigated this yet and the head had relatively low miles.
Thanks again jhiggs and acallahan
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