A torch would effect the temper of the spring leading to failure. That IS the kind of hack job against which you are railing. My point is that if a spring can be cut so it still aligns with the perch, has sufficient free length, and the end result is the desired ride height and rate, then properly cutting is valid. How do you think they make springs? Hint: They CUT them.

Modifying a car, be it changing the design of the intake system as the OP was questioning, or any other modification is an ENGINEERING process.
1: Evaluate what you think you want to achieve that the OEM did not
2: Evaluate why they did not do it that way.
3: Evaluate why you think you are smarter than the OEM
4: Evaluate what negative effects your change could make.
5: Design the change, implement, test,
6; Lather, rinse, repeat.

The OP had enthusiasm for an idea seen elsewhere. He was astute enough to ask assistance in the evaluation process.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...s/thumb-up.gif Conclusion is pretty clear this will not meet #1 and #4 above.

 

I want to chime in on this stigma you guys have about cutting springs. Sure it's easy to regurgitate what you hear on the internet that cutting springs are bad, but can you tell me why you think this?

there are many engineering books out there that may help you understand that this is just a myth made by people who don't understand, check out a book and read something called Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams.

Here's a quick blurb from MM an engineering and design company that still does work on BMW vehicles. If you look around, there are lots of these articles from respected tuners.



There is nothing wrong with cutting springs if you do it right. I bet that I could take any one of your cars that have H&R's, NM's, Eibachs or what ever. Get your stock springs, cut the appropriate amount of coils to match your ride height or so off, close the spring by heating it up and pushing the end closed so it sits in the perch properly, and you would never know the difference.

 

dbl post...

 

Guess you just better do a lot of engineering for lopping off a coil or two then. I've been in cars with cut springs, and the adverse effects to handling have been horrid.

Anyways, I admit that it was my fault that the topic started going off of track a little, but now it seems that we're completely off topic. Let's get back to cutting holes in airboxes.

 

So have I, they were not cut right, bounced all over the place. I assure you, this was and is still a proper technique. I'll do it to your M3, bring it over your only 20min from me. Then I can show you one of my 30 year old bimmers that will out handle your M3 on cut springs (it's in good fun don't get all upset).

I have done this a few times to people who didn't believe me, they believe it now though. I dont expect people who havent thoughouly researched this issue and understand how coil springs/torsion bars work to believe that this is the case. It's much easier to read something on the internet and take it as gospel, and join the rest of the sheep and say, cutting springs is stupid. Done right, it's the same thing what the factory does.

PS: Dont cut holes in the airbox, it will just vent in engine heated air. Back on topic.

 

I'm not sure how much of that air will actually be hot, in all reality. It will certainly be less cool than that of the "pressurized" intake system, but I really don't know how much.

Under the stock box, there are not many things generating heat. Most of the hot engine air will remain at the top of the bay. Under the box there isn't very much heat.

The reason most people switch to open air intake is to allow more air to flow, but the trade-off is that the air isn't as cool. More air means louder spool and blow-off.

So if you want more sound, go for it. I have an open air, and I love the sound. If you're expecting performance gains out of it, don't get your hopes up. So far I haven't felt like I have lost any performance, I've probably gained a little, but my set-up put the intake in a cool place in the bay with cold air flowing directly to it.

 

any pix to share of your custom intake?

 

Nah, and it's pouring out. I have a 90 degree tube that goes from the intake tube and goes DOWN, rather than left. Putting it to the left gets you flow from the scoop, which forces hot air from the turbo and engine to go to the intake. You have to get the right sized cone filter, if it's too long or the diameter is too big, you'll end up rubbing on various things in that area.

So 90 degree tube from the intake tube, point it down, slap on air filter. Like I said, dimensions are everything. I removed the stock box, but left the cold air feed in place to feed the air filter. I've done hard runs and just threw my hand in the area to test temps, and it seems ambient, but I have no proof of such. I originally did it just for sound, but I decided to have fun with it and see if I could get a little more out of it. I tried out a few set ups, and this one works best in terms of physical stability and (seemingly) temperature stability.

 

Okay guys back on topic.... What was it again? Oh yes! A swiss cheese intake.

So I got curious about this and when I got home I tried it out. I gotta say IT WORKS! I took some pictures so you guys can see what I did. Check it out!
　



　
I made sure to follow tvrgeek’s scientific method to a T, so I know my reasoning is sound. Just in case, I’ll list my thought process so you guys can check my work and point out any mistakes (like you’ll find any!):

1: Evaluate what you think you want to achieve that the OEM did not.
Well, obviously I want to add horsepower and torque. And I want my intake to be delicious.

2: Evaluate why they did not do it that way.
Likely because they are a bunch of dummy caca doo doo heads. I mean, who the heck doesn’t like cheese?

3: Evaluate why you think you are smarter than the OEM.
See above.

4: Evaluate what negative effects your change could make.
Negative effects? That’s easy. Obviously cheese only lasts so long before it starts to go bad. You wouldn’t want mold in your engine! That’s why I propose an easy fix: replace the cheese every one or two weeks and you should be okay. You also might want to consider putting it on a paper plate in order to prevent melting as well. That’ll cost you some whp/wtq though, so it’s up to you.

5: Design the change, implement, test.
Done, done, and done.

6: Lather, rinse, repeat.
Good thing my reasoning is so sound. I don’t know if I could go through all that work again without my head exploding. I’ll admit I skipped this step. Unless, of course, you were talking about washing your hands. I skipped that part too.

I also referenced tons of cook books in order to confirm my suspicion that cheese will add tons of power by applying it to any dish–err, I mean intake. I think I can feel at least a 21.36 whp increase including 34.89 wtq (but I’m just estimating). The best part about this mod? You can do it on every kind of intake out there! Never before has there been a mod so easy and powerful that’s guaranteed to work no matter what kind of setup you have. I’ve tried it on my DoS, but I don’t see any reason why this can’t be done on other intakes. Enjoy! I know I will.

 

 

Well played. Well played indeed!

 

That's choice, too.

Thanks for the laugh...after all the sadness.

 

Personally I would have gone with pepper-jack.

 

I lol'd so hard.

Pepperjack is indeed more delicous, but then it wouldn't be a swiss cheese intake now would it?

 

That's "More cheese Grommet!"