Drivetrain WMW Performance Blow off Valve -- opinions?
#105
Installed this last week sometime, took the car out for a drive...I noticed a difference for sure, especially between shifts, boost is more readily available it seems...Plus Wayland is one of the most friendly guys i've ever talked to on the phone. He put up with a lot of boneheaded questions of mine, part of the reason I got my TSW springs, upper and lower rear Hsport control arms, turbo heat shield, Control arm bushings, Diverter valve replacement...etc etc from him.
He's brutally honest about whether you NEED a product or not...now I wanna try the Forge setup he carries....but that'll have to wait until it's in the budget.
He's brutally honest about whether you NEED a product or not...now I wanna try the Forge setup he carries....but that'll have to wait until it's in the budget.
#108
#109
I'm driving up to San Francisco next week and will compare the highway MPG to when I had the stock valve in there. I used to get about 415 miles during the trip (since it's almost all highway), so we'll see what I get with the WMV valve.
I guess there's always a tradeoff, eh?
#110
I hate to sound like a troublemaker...but the ONLY reason my MPG has decreased is because it's more fun to drive the car harder now...so whenever I get a chance I do. The couple longer trips i've taken where i drove "normal" I havn't noticed ANY decrease in MPG. It's just a lot harder to drive "normal" now lol. I still can squeeze 500 miles out of a tank if I want to, but usually average around 400-430 with my more spirited driving style thanks to various performance mods...including the new diverter valve.
#111
I agree 100%! While I originally posted that I could drive in non sport mode and love it, I've driven the last 3 tanks with Sport Mode On and drive it like I stole it, lol, knowing full well I would get much fewer miles per gallon. I also just added the NM Torque Arm Insert that I got from Way which dramatically changed the acceleration of my Clubbie too.
I think both of these mods are essentials, and whether I want to drive hard, or drive like a granny to squeeze as many miles out per gallon, these mods make driving more fun when you want to!
I think both of these mods are essentials, and whether I want to drive hard, or drive like a granny to squeeze as many miles out per gallon, these mods make driving more fun when you want to!
I hate to sound like a troublemaker...but the ONLY reason my MPG has decreased is because it's more fun to drive the car harder now...so whenever I get a chance I do. The couple longer trips i've taken where i drove "normal" I havn't noticed ANY decrease in MPG. It's just a lot harder to drive "normal" now lol. I still can squeeze 500 miles out of a tank if I want to, but usually average around 400-430 with my more spirited driving style thanks to various performance mods...including the new diverter valve.
#112
I hate to sound like a troublemaker...but the ONLY reason my MPG has decreased is because it's more fun to drive the car harder now...so whenever I get a chance I do. The couple longer trips i've taken where i drove "normal" I havn't noticed ANY decrease in MPG. It's just a lot harder to drive "normal" now lol. I still can squeeze 500 miles out of a tank if I want to, but usually average around 400-430 with my more spirited driving style thanks to various performance mods...including the new diverter valve.
I'll check when I make that long trip and compare mileage. Again, you may very well have a point here. And 500 miles out of a tank!? That's incredible!! At best I've gotten about 415, though in Los Angeles there's a huge amount of starting and stopping.
#113
You may be right -- I may be unconsciously driving harder with this thing!
I'll check when I make that long trip and compare mileage. Again, you may very well have a point here. And 500 miles out of a tank!? That's incredible!! At best I've gotten about 415, though in Los Angeles there's a huge amount of starting and stopping.
I'll check when I make that long trip and compare mileage. Again, you may very well have a point here. And 500 miles out of a tank!? That's incredible!! At best I've gotten about 415, though in Los Angeles there's a huge amount of starting and stopping.
#115
#116
#118
i got it and installed it on my auto. i did feel the difference, i haven't run hard coz rainy day.
i didn't put the spacer in, it is because this one extend long than the orginal one, if i put it in with the spacer, it is compressed... who can confirm if it work with the spacer or not??
i didn't put the spacer in, it is because this one extend long than the orginal one, if i put it in with the spacer, it is compressed... who can confirm if it work with the spacer or not??
Rod
#120
#121
Guys, a DV & BOV are really the same thing, & are used interchangeably.
In reality, a DV recalculates the boost back after the MAF, where a BOV vents outside the intake track, or before the MAF.
Just about any BOV can be made to a DV by having the exit put back in after the MAF. A lot of them have kits to turn a BOV to a DV.
The reason for the CEL when switching, is the MAF meters all the air going in, & wen you vent it out of the intake track, it is like having a big boost leak.
DV's fail, for anyone who has owned a Turbo Audi, they are a normal maintaince part. When they start to fail, they can't hold back the boost, so you loose boost pressure, & they also start to slow down the actuation, & create boost lag.
The turbo is always creating boost, the DV keeps the turbo spooling as you press & release the gas, the faster it actuates the faster you get boost into the engine, & easier it is for the turbo to keep on creating boost.
Most aftermarket DV/BOV's will hold a higher boost pressure (needed for adding more boost) & will actuate faster then stock.
That all being said, I'm going to order one, & slap it on.
In reality, a DV recalculates the boost back after the MAF, where a BOV vents outside the intake track, or before the MAF.
Just about any BOV can be made to a DV by having the exit put back in after the MAF. A lot of them have kits to turn a BOV to a DV.
The reason for the CEL when switching, is the MAF meters all the air going in, & wen you vent it out of the intake track, it is like having a big boost leak.
DV's fail, for anyone who has owned a Turbo Audi, they are a normal maintaince part. When they start to fail, they can't hold back the boost, so you loose boost pressure, & they also start to slow down the actuation, & create boost lag.
The turbo is always creating boost, the DV keeps the turbo spooling as you press & release the gas, the faster it actuates the faster you get boost into the engine, & easier it is for the turbo to keep on creating boost.
Most aftermarket DV/BOV's will hold a higher boost pressure (needed for adding more boost) & will actuate faster then stock.
That all being said, I'm going to order one, & slap it on.
#122
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WMW Diverter
I've had this piece for about a month but finally got out this morning to install it.
A couple of things that I noticed right away is a change in the "pssttt" when I come off the throttle (I've got a DDM Street works intake so I am used to the whoooshing sound) and it's just not as pronounced.
I've got an SGII and I'm showing boost pressure with the refresh rate on maximum. I'm seeing boost earlier (less throttle) than I used to see.
There's no doubt that there's less turbo lag between shifts and when I wasn't being "lazy", I was able to make shifts without the SGII noticing any drop in boost pressure.
All in all, I have to say it was worth the purchase price and the time/effort to install it.
A couple of things that I noticed right away is a change in the "pssttt" when I come off the throttle (I've got a DDM Street works intake so I am used to the whoooshing sound) and it's just not as pronounced.
I've got an SGII and I'm showing boost pressure with the refresh rate on maximum. I'm seeing boost earlier (less throttle) than I used to see.
There's no doubt that there's less turbo lag between shifts and when I wasn't being "lazy", I was able to make shifts without the SGII noticing any drop in boost pressure.
All in all, I have to say it was worth the purchase price and the time/effort to install it.
#123
WMW bov is definitely worth it!
The good wife picked this up for me for christmas. The install took about 30 minutes thanks to Octaneguy's detailed instructions!
Like everyone else, I noticed a immediate improvement in throttle response after the install and all in all the car seems easier to drive. Also i have noticed a decrease in mpg but only .5 or so, but i think its a good trade off.
Thanks Way for a great product!
Next up... Torque arm bushing!
-James
Like everyone else, I noticed a immediate improvement in throttle response after the install and all in all the car seems easier to drive. Also i have noticed a decrease in mpg but only .5 or so, but i think its a good trade off.
Thanks Way for a great product!
Next up... Torque arm bushing!
-James
#124
The good wife picked this up for me for christmas. The install took about 30 minutes thanks to Octaneguy's detailed instructions!
Like everyone else, I noticed a immediate improvement in throttle response after the install and all in all the car seems easier to drive. Also i have noticed a decrease in mpg but only .5 or so, but i think its a good trade off.
Thanks Way for a great product!
Next up... Torque arm bushing!
-James
Like everyone else, I noticed a immediate improvement in throttle response after the install and all in all the car seems easier to drive. Also i have noticed a decrease in mpg but only .5 or so, but i think its a good trade off.
Thanks Way for a great product!
Next up... Torque arm bushing!
-James
#125
Finally got around to buying one of these, and installed it tonight. But first off, still a PITA, even with help from you guys. Of all the bolts, I found the toughest one to actually be the top front one....damn coolant line sitting right in the path of a straight shot allen socket (long story).
Anyways, is it my imagination...or have any of you felt as if this thing eliminates some of that take off throttle response hesitation, non sport mode? Because I swear it feels as though a lot of that initial take off throttle hesitation is gone. I do have an auto 2010, and even the roll-on aggressiveness seems to have improved. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sure feels like it.
And a couple of questions too...
1. Did any of you torque these bolts? It didn't feel as if there was a lot of torque on them when removing, so when I put the new one in I just tightened all the way down, then a little push of torque using a 1/4" drive ratchet.
2. Hope I did it right, regarding installation of the new one...orientation of the valve relatively the same as oem? with the connector pointing down? Seemed logical to me, and that's what I did...but the WMW valve is oriented just a tad different than the oem one, connector in relation to the mounting holes.
What sucked for me though was losing one of the OEM bolts when I went to put it back together . Couldn't find that thing anywhere, and spent a hour looking for it. Gonna have to pick up a bolt tomorrow, Home Depot was closed when I was putting it back in. Fortunately, I had a M6 allen same thread pitch at the house, but too long. Did the ole thread a nut onto it at the proper length...cut off the excess...hit the burrs with a file and take the nut back off to clean the threads. Worked like a champ to get me on the road...but I'm still gonna buy a proper bolt. BTW...I heard that stupid lost bolt go banging under the car about 5 miles into my test drive. guess I won't need to worry where that thing is anymore.
Anyways, is it my imagination...or have any of you felt as if this thing eliminates some of that take off throttle response hesitation, non sport mode? Because I swear it feels as though a lot of that initial take off throttle hesitation is gone. I do have an auto 2010, and even the roll-on aggressiveness seems to have improved. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sure feels like it.
And a couple of questions too...
1. Did any of you torque these bolts? It didn't feel as if there was a lot of torque on them when removing, so when I put the new one in I just tightened all the way down, then a little push of torque using a 1/4" drive ratchet.
2. Hope I did it right, regarding installation of the new one...orientation of the valve relatively the same as oem? with the connector pointing down? Seemed logical to me, and that's what I did...but the WMW valve is oriented just a tad different than the oem one, connector in relation to the mounting holes.
What sucked for me though was losing one of the OEM bolts when I went to put it back together . Couldn't find that thing anywhere, and spent a hour looking for it. Gonna have to pick up a bolt tomorrow, Home Depot was closed when I was putting it back in. Fortunately, I had a M6 allen same thread pitch at the house, but too long. Did the ole thread a nut onto it at the proper length...cut off the excess...hit the burrs with a file and take the nut back off to clean the threads. Worked like a champ to get me on the road...but I'm still gonna buy a proper bolt. BTW...I heard that stupid lost bolt go banging under the car about 5 miles into my test drive. guess I won't need to worry where that thing is anymore.
Last edited by 10Zero; 01-17-2011 at 12:13 AM.