Drivetrain WMW Performance Blow off Valve -- opinions?
#126
My biggest question of all though...what is the source of this valve? What other car does it go to?
Granted, doesn't bother me in the slightest that someone else did the homework (WMW)...but where does it come from Wayland? Anyone?
See, that's what kills me personally...got a great piece of upgrade, at a great price in my opinion. But I would love to know what what else this valve fits or where it comes from.
Someone throw me a bone here if you got one.
Granted, doesn't bother me in the slightest that someone else did the homework (WMW)...but where does it come from Wayland? Anyone?
See, that's what kills me personally...got a great piece of upgrade, at a great price in my opinion. But I would love to know what what else this valve fits or where it comes from.
Someone throw me a bone here if you got one.
#127
My biggest question of all though...what is the source of this valve? What other car does it go to?
Granted, doesn't bother me in the slightest that someone else did the homework (WMW)...but where does it come from Wayland? Anyone?
See, that's what kills me personally...got a great piece of upgrade, at a great price in my opinion. But I would love to know what what else this valve fits or where it comes from.
Someone throw me a bone here if you got one.
Granted, doesn't bother me in the slightest that someone else did the homework (WMW)...but where does it come from Wayland? Anyone?
See, that's what kills me personally...got a great piece of upgrade, at a great price in my opinion. But I would love to know what what else this valve fits or where it comes from.
Someone throw me a bone here if you got one.
I took a close look at the OEM/WMW valve and discovered they are made by the same outfit in Germany, Pierburg, the only difference being the OEM one has a BMW parts #. Oh, and that magical longer valve throw! Saw a post somewhere saying Pierburg makes this same valve for BMW, VW and others. WMW did some really good work ferreting out the very subtle differences in these valves. I suspect the WMW valve came off the JCW engine. Is that why it doesn't have any effect when put on a JCW? Thanks Way!
BTW, don't worry about whether you got it on right. If you can re-connect the electrical plug, it's on right! As for the reports of a decrease in MPG, that one's easy. The quicker the boost goes up, the quicker the gas tank empties! An increase in right foot weight may be a factor as well. LOL
#128
The only reason I'm curious to the source is just peace of mind to know if it's an oem from another vehicle...or is it an "aftermarket" and as such it's been reworked. As for it being a JCW valve... if it is it's all I want to know.
I was surprised too I only lost one of those damn bolts. But here kicks in the paranoid side...I went to both Lowes and Home Depot looking for a bolt. What they carry, and what actually went into the bolt hole without issue, is an M6 allen bolt, with a 1.00 thread pitch, 16mm long but different grade of steel and blackened finish. Looking at realoem.com and penskeparts, the bolt is an M6 8.8 steel grade, 16mm long. So I just went ahead and ordered some oem bolts through penskeparts.com, replace the "lost one" so they're all identical.
Probably more of an OCD problem...
I was surprised too I only lost one of those damn bolts. But here kicks in the paranoid side...I went to both Lowes and Home Depot looking for a bolt. What they carry, and what actually went into the bolt hole without issue, is an M6 allen bolt, with a 1.00 thread pitch, 16mm long but different grade of steel and blackened finish. Looking at realoem.com and penskeparts, the bolt is an M6 8.8 steel grade, 16mm long. So I just went ahead and ordered some oem bolts through penskeparts.com, replace the "lost one" so they're all identical.
Probably more of an OCD problem...
Last edited by 10Zero; 01-18-2011 at 12:26 AM.
#130
Can some one get the part numbers on the side? It looks just like this.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES26...Rhzgwod_y9IHA#
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6ZVs9QT0tY
http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticle...lve/index.html
Last edited by Stealth 993; 01-17-2011 at 05:14 PM.
#131
Wish I did, installed it without trying to get a number off it...didn't really care.
Last edited by 10Zero; 01-18-2011 at 12:28 AM.
#132
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Is the $64 price tag too expensive that you guys are trying to cut me out??? You won't find any part numbers on it the part. I took care of them, so someone couldn't find out the other brand of car I got it from. Cause after they find out they will post the part number and somewhere to buy it for $5 less. You all know what I'm talking about, that won't help my business.
#134
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
I've tested few but making throttle responce smooth and one that reacts fast enough has been hard. But I got the Forge BOV and had great results from it, and the spring in it can be changed for different boost.
#135
I've tested few but making throttle responce smooth and one that reacts fast enough has been hard. But I got the Forge BOV and had great results from it, and the spring in it can be changed for different boost.
#136
Is the $64 price tag too expensive that you guys are trying to cut me out??? You won't find any part numbers on it the part. I took care of them, so someone couldn't find out the other brand of car I got it from. Cause after they find out they will post the part number and somewhere to buy it for $5 less. You all know what I'm talking about, that won't help my business.
Not at all! $64 was great! Didn't mean to stir any pots really. It was just my curiosity is all, nothing more. My humble apologies.
#137
Ordered my WMW BOV upgrade this morning and already received a shipped notification. Thanks Wayland!
The biggest b!tch about the R56 MINI is the disparity between Sport and non-sport off idle throttle response. The first modification was a torque arm insert. This is a must have in my book, helped quite a bit, and with NO adverse affects. However, two years later I still drive in Sport mode 99% of the time unless it is for long stretches. Hopefully quicker availability of boost will alleviate the need/desire/habit for Sport mode.
As for gas mileage decrease, while a consideration as my MINI is my daily transportation, is not a deal breaker. Smiles per gallon wins.
Bob
The biggest b!tch about the R56 MINI is the disparity between Sport and non-sport off idle throttle response. The first modification was a torque arm insert. This is a must have in my book, helped quite a bit, and with NO adverse affects. However, two years later I still drive in Sport mode 99% of the time unless it is for long stretches. Hopefully quicker availability of boost will alleviate the need/desire/habit for Sport mode.
As for gas mileage decrease, while a consideration as my MINI is my daily transportation, is not a deal breaker. Smiles per gallon wins.
Bob
#138
Is the $64 price tag too expensive that you guys are trying to cut me out??? You won't find any part numbers on it the part. I took care of them, so someone couldn't find out the other brand of car I got it from. Cause after they find out they will post the part number and somewhere to buy it for $5 less. You all know what I'm talking about, that won't help my business.
It's also in poor taste for a vendor to be so defensive, & upset over this. It is a natural curiosity for us to want, to know what it is, & where it came form. Really it would not be hard for someone to figure out, so easy in fact that you had to remove any markings from it. For all we know it can be some off brand made in China cheap part & not a OEM type quality part.
Props for your for figuring it out, if you has just said it is a OEM, part that we tested a few of to find the best/safest one for our MINI's From your experience this is the "best" option for the $$. Putting the wrong DV on the car, can cause really bad things to happen.
#139
gmodder,
The torque arm inserts are silly simple to install. It will take longer to get the car up on jack stands than it will be to install. A quick look-see under your car will help get the correct part.
Raise car on Jackstands
Loosen engine side bolt of torque arm. Not necessary to remove.
Loosen and remove frame side torque arm bolt.
Use long handled screwdriver to swing torque arm down.
Place inserts into the bushings on either side of the torque arm.
Swing torque arm back into place. Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer may be necessary to get it back into the mount.
Use a fat philips screwdriver to get the bolt holes lined up.
Tighten both torque arm bolts
Lower car
ENJOY!
The torque arm inserts are silly simple to install. It will take longer to get the car up on jack stands than it will be to install. A quick look-see under your car will help get the correct part.
Raise car on Jackstands
Loosen engine side bolt of torque arm. Not necessary to remove.
Loosen and remove frame side torque arm bolt.
Use long handled screwdriver to swing torque arm down.
Place inserts into the bushings on either side of the torque arm.
Swing torque arm back into place. Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer may be necessary to get it back into the mount.
Use a fat philips screwdriver to get the bolt holes lined up.
Tighten both torque arm bolts
Lower car
ENJOY!
#140
#141
Speedin Bob's info is spot on. Only thing different I did was put a thin coat of silicone grease on the bushing surfaces. Didn't have a rubber mallet so used a screw type bar clamp to press it into place. If I see torque settings on any instructions I do it because they're there for a good reason. You can get a decent torque wrench at Harbor Freight for under $20. You're gonna be surprised the first time you drive it!
Last edited by Dwight Walhood; 01-20-2011 at 08:00 AM. Reason: typo
#142
Guys, just an FYI on torque arm inserts (off topic)...you don't even need to hammer or pry it into place. Have the car in neutral and the parking brake set (taking pressure off the engine). Once the front bolt is loose and the rear one removed, you can just push on the engine at the oil pan. Doesn't take much effort to move the engine back and forth, makes it super easy to align that rear hole to put the bolt back in.
FWIW... give it a try
FWIW... give it a try
#143
Speedin Bob's info is spot on. Only thing different I did was put a thin coat of silicone grease on the bushing surfaces. Didn't have a rubber mallet so used a screw type bar clamp to press it into place. If I see torque settings on any instructions I do it because they're there for a good reason. You can get a decent torque wrench at Harbor Freight for under $20. You're gonna be surprised the first time you drive it!
#145
Ordered and installed the WMW DV this weekend. What a godsend. My MINI's surge&stutter, 1st/2nd gear boost dump was driving me nuts. This eliminated all of that! Great job, Way!
I just wish I'd read this thread sooner! I saw the "BOV" thread title/descriptor and thought, "I don't want a noisemaker".
I just wish I'd read this thread sooner! I saw the "BOV" thread title/descriptor and thought, "I don't want a noisemaker".
#147
#149
Ordered and installed the WMW DV this weekend. What a godsend. My MINI's surge&stutter, 1st/2nd gear boost dump was driving me nuts. This eliminated all of that! Great job, Way!
I just wish I'd read this thread sooner! I saw the "BOV" thread title/descriptor and thought, "I don't want a noisemaker".
I just wish I'd read this thread sooner! I saw the "BOV" thread title/descriptor and thought, "I don't want a noisemaker".
#150
That said, could you get a more aggressive tune? Maybe. You'd have to ask Jan.
Good luck.