Drivetrain WMW Performance Blow off Valve -- opinions?
#201
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quite possibly the most annoying thing i've done on a car so far. first of all whoever put in those bolts torqued the crap out of them. when i took them out there were metal shavings all over the place. getting them back in straight was a pain and i lost one somewhere in the engine bay. luckily the home depot sells the same bolt in black oxide finish.
-Alex
-Alex
#202
there is definitely a noticeable difference in the car but i'm not sure it was worth the hassle.
#203
That's definitely not the usual experience.
#204
#205
I put the WMW Blow off valve in about two weeks ago. I didn't think it was that bad to install. I removed the cold air intake hose and moved the coolant tank and took my time. Not really a problem.
I replaced my spark plugs at the same time, so I'm not sure I can make a fair before and after comparison. But..it sure runs much better. The low end is much smoother and the engine feels stronger.
I have only gone through one tank of gas and the mileage didn't change. I'm going to be watching it long-term but so far very pleased.
I replaced my spark plugs at the same time, so I'm not sure I can make a fair before and after comparison. But..it sure runs much better. The low end is much smoother and the engine feels stronger.
I have only gone through one tank of gas and the mileage didn't change. I'm going to be watching it long-term but so far very pleased.
#207
The Helix stepped core FMIC! Had mine since last year and it works great. Intake temps are either at or within 2-3deg of ambient even on blazing hot days. BTW, I had mine coated with thermal dispersant before install.
#208
The install is really not THAT bad. I looked at it long and hard before I took anything off, then I took off the CAI pipe, and AS LONG AS you have a proper angled Torx T30, you should be able to do remove it without removing the coolant reservoir. Mine was just right, so I was able to complete the entire job with only removing the CAI hose, and nothing else.
The bolts were torqued but nothing excessive. Difference is quite noticeable, even though I tried it for all of 100m so far - we'll see when I go for a drive later. Seems to be quite worth the 60-some bucks!
The bolts were torqued but nothing excessive. Difference is quite noticeable, even though I tried it for all of 100m so far - we'll see when I go for a drive later. Seems to be quite worth the 60-some bucks!
#210
I installed the valve a few days ago, the whole process took me about 40 minutes, (10 of which were running to the store to get another t30 bit) LOL
My initial impressions are very similar to what others are experiencing. Low down power delivery feels buttery smooth now, and there is no more hesitation/jumping during accel/deccel. This feels like how the car should have came from the factory.
Having the Scangauge installed too helped me to notice that I now build boost faster and hold it better during shifting. This is no placebo, the proof is in the pudding. Anybody with a boost gauge or a scangauge will be able to notice this on something other than the butt-dyno.
My initial impressions are very similar to what others are experiencing. Low down power delivery feels buttery smooth now, and there is no more hesitation/jumping during accel/deccel. This feels like how the car should have came from the factory.
Having the Scangauge installed too helped me to notice that I now build boost faster and hold it better during shifting. This is no placebo, the proof is in the pudding. Anybody with a boost gauge or a scangauge will be able to notice this on something other than the butt-dyno.
#212
#214
#216
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Well, if anyone on here is skeptical about installing this, don't be. It was a VERY simple job. Just be mindful when you're close to backing out the screw, grab it with your fingers as you slide it out, and install it the same way. 15 minute job once you remove the intake pipe. Did it make a difference? Meh, not really on first impression. I'll give it a hard run tomorrow and see for sure.
#217
On mine, the difference was noticeable. Like the pictures posted in this thread earlier, the WMW valve extended further out than the stock one. My stock spring also felt marginally weaker. The overall design on mine was slightly tweaked as well (the holes at the top of the valve were shaped differently).
#219
I've seen different accounts of whether there is a noticeable noise with the new BOV(or DV, whatever your mood is). For me, there is a noticeable whirl (a glorified whine) and whoosh while I accelerate. Can anyone else comment? I feel that the sound is the most noticeable difference - more so than any performance gain.
#220
Although all of the parts look the same, I thought I read the spring is stiffer than the OEM one. Also there was speculation that this BOV is actually the one for a JCW and that is why the serial number is shaved off (maybe to keep that a secret?).
#221
#222
Taking the coolant res out will take you 5 minutes and save you about 30min of trying to get a hand in there...install is much faster with it gone.
#223
Do you completely take the coolant reservoir out and keep it aside (out of the car) or do you mean just remove the one bolt thats on it.
Just removing one bolt doesnt give enough space to work around there. Completely removing coolant reservoir means coolant leakage and putting hose clamps back. I think there are 2 hoses to the reservoir(right?)
My bigger problem is that one but is rusted.
Just removing one bolt doesnt give enough space to work around there. Completely removing coolant reservoir means coolant leakage and putting hose clamps back. I think there are 2 hoses to the reservoir(right?)
My bigger problem is that one but is rusted.