Drivetrain Max reliable power....
#1
Max reliable power....
Hey all,
I'm new to these boards and am looking into picking up one soon.
I am curious as to who is running what kind of power levels reliably. Meaning no broken trans, axles, motor failing.
Also curious as to what has been done if those are failing to maximize the performance and reliability?
I know this sounds quite broad but what im intending on doing with the car is completely different than most have ever used it for from what im seeing.
Thanks!
_billy
I'm new to these boards and am looking into picking up one soon.
I am curious as to who is running what kind of power levels reliably. Meaning no broken trans, axles, motor failing.
Also curious as to what has been done if those are failing to maximize the performance and reliability?
I know this sounds quite broad but what im intending on doing with the car is completely different than most have ever used it for from what im seeing.
Thanks!
_billy
#3
#4
#6
Anything above factory spec and the first component to have a reduced life is the turbo, everybody is pushing the factory spec turbo out of it's efficiency range, asking it for more and more, and although at first it will deliver what you ask of it, (too a point) don't be surprised when it lets go early in it's life expectancy, and your left looking to blame someone, EG: the tuner! when in actual fact you should be looking no further than yourself.
Now the MILLION dollar question, how reliable is the rest of the engine/drivetrain when chasing BIG power?
Do you really want to be the pioneer and find out at what level the engine's components will finally call it a day and go on vacation!
Unless you've got the budget to not care, then be sensible and build it right the first time, don't trust to chance that lady luck will always be at your side, because when it goes wrong, you'll kick yourself for not following life's 7 P's, Here are the 7 P's to be remembered in life:
Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents **** Poor Performance!
In it's factory stock form it's quite a tough engine, that said, you've still got to remember that when you increase power your pushing the limits of what the factory stock internals were originally designed for, and the more power you build the more heat you produce, remember heat is the KILLER to all engines!
I believe most of you will be very happy with anything ranging from 200-250 WHP, anything after this and you should really be looking at spending a few $$$ on prevention, rather than a cure when it all goes horrifically wrong.
What you've got to look at is, these engines (N14) are all about low to mid range Power and Torque, and not really suitable for high RPM in their stock factory form, your all chasing that elusive magic BHP value figure, when what you should be chasing is the best amount of Torque, whilst sacrificing a few BHP.
If your looking at swapping your factory stock turbo for an aftermarket one, don't go too oversize, EG: GT2871RS, this particular turbo is WAY too BIG, for everyday driving situations from the otherwise factory stock engine, you will loose low down Torque and Power, and when the factory stock engine is producing enough exhaust gas velocity to initiate the spooling of this BIG turbo, you will have experienced turbo lag in the lower RPM range, and then when it does start to produce power for you, this will be short lived due to the asthmatic nature of the factory stock camshafts.
So is BIG power possible 300 +? Yes it is, however it comes at a premium price.
#7
Reliable power is the factory spec!
Anything above factory spec and the first component to have a reduced life is the turbo, everybody is pushing the factory spec turbo out of it's efficiency range, asking it for more and more, and although at first it will deliver what you ask of it, (too a point) don't be surprised when it lets go early in it's life expectancy, and your left looking to blame someone, EG: the tuner! when in actual fact you should be looking no further than yourself.
Now the MILLION dollar question, how reliable is the rest of the engine/drivetrain when chasing BIG power?
Do you really want to be the pioneer and find out at what level the engine's components will finally call it a day and go on vacation!
Unless you've got the budget to not care, then be sensible and build it right the first time, don't trust to chance that lady luck will always be at your side, because when it goes wrong, you'll kick yourself for not following life's 7 P's, Here are the 7 P's to be remembered in life:
Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents **** Poor Performance!
In it's factory stock form it's quite a tough engine, that said, you've still got to remember that when you increase power your pushing the limits of what the factory stock internals were originally designed for, and the more power you build the more heat you produce, remember heat is the KILLER to all engines!
I believe most of you will be very happy with anything ranging from 200-250 WHP, anything after this and you should really be looking at spending a few $$$ on prevention, rather than a cure when it all goes horrifically wrong.
What you've got to look at is, these engines (N14) are all about low to mid range Power and Torque, and not really suitable for high RPM in their stock factory form, your all chasing that elusive magic BHP value figure, when what you should be chasing is the best amount of Torque, whilst sacrificing a few BHP.
If your looking at swapping your factory stock turbo for an aftermarket one, don't go too oversize, EG: GT2871RS, this particular turbo is WAY too BIG, for everyday driving situations from the otherwise factory stock engine, you will loose low down Torque and Power, and when the factory stock engine is producing enough exhaust gas velocity to initiate the spooling of this BIG turbo, you will have experienced turbo lag in the lower RPM range, and then when it does start to produce power for you, this will be short lived due to the asthmatic nature of the factory stock camshafts.
So is BIG power possible 300 +? Yes it is, however it comes at a premium price.
Anything above factory spec and the first component to have a reduced life is the turbo, everybody is pushing the factory spec turbo out of it's efficiency range, asking it for more and more, and although at first it will deliver what you ask of it, (too a point) don't be surprised when it lets go early in it's life expectancy, and your left looking to blame someone, EG: the tuner! when in actual fact you should be looking no further than yourself.
Now the MILLION dollar question, how reliable is the rest of the engine/drivetrain when chasing BIG power?
Do you really want to be the pioneer and find out at what level the engine's components will finally call it a day and go on vacation!
Unless you've got the budget to not care, then be sensible and build it right the first time, don't trust to chance that lady luck will always be at your side, because when it goes wrong, you'll kick yourself for not following life's 7 P's, Here are the 7 P's to be remembered in life:
Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents **** Poor Performance!
In it's factory stock form it's quite a tough engine, that said, you've still got to remember that when you increase power your pushing the limits of what the factory stock internals were originally designed for, and the more power you build the more heat you produce, remember heat is the KILLER to all engines!
I believe most of you will be very happy with anything ranging from 200-250 WHP, anything after this and you should really be looking at spending a few $$$ on prevention, rather than a cure when it all goes horrifically wrong.
What you've got to look at is, these engines (N14) are all about low to mid range Power and Torque, and not really suitable for high RPM in their stock factory form, your all chasing that elusive magic BHP value figure, when what you should be chasing is the best amount of Torque, whilst sacrificing a few BHP.
If your looking at swapping your factory stock turbo for an aftermarket one, don't go too oversize, EG: GT2871RS, this particular turbo is WAY too BIG, for everyday driving situations from the otherwise factory stock engine, you will loose low down Torque and Power, and when the factory stock engine is producing enough exhaust gas velocity to initiate the spooling of this BIG turbo, you will have experienced turbo lag in the lower RPM range, and then when it does start to produce power for you, this will be short lived due to the asthmatic nature of the factory stock camshafts.
So is BIG power possible 300 +? Yes it is, however it comes at a premium price.
Like the b series Honda days, pay to play.
Trending Topics
#9
the power can be gotten from both if were talking engine(no add ons like turbos or management) but the jcw will definitely handle it more adequately with its forged pieces.
#10
Mmm, let me put a misconception to rest once and for all, regarding the S and JCW engine internals.
The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.
How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.
And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.
How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.
And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
#13
Well let me think here. With everything it is a pay to play mentality but, how do you think the majority of people in the world get big power? They don't beat around the bush. They get in there and do it and well if it blows up you keep moving and start over. Ya it doesn't help that the parts to the MINI are freaking expensive but this motor is not only in the MINI it is also in Peugeots so look over that way and see what the pricesare. Its all about go big or go home.
#14
Mmm, let me put a misconception to rest once and for all, regarding the S and JCW engine internals.
The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.
How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.
And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.
How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.
And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
Excellent! and thank you for the correction, when you measured the pistons with a caliper were the measurements different for the different ratio or could it have been a thicker head gasket? Even the weight was the same?(regarding to metal type differences between the s and jcw)
#18
What about the physical weight, obviously its going to be different but is the difference substantial to show a difference in material?
#20
gotcha gotcha, good to know. cant wait to see what can be done now that the internals are identical. external mods and tune make up the difference.
#21
Mmm, let me put a misconception to rest once and for all, regarding the S and JCW engine internals.
The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.
How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.
And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.
How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.
And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
I was told this by a couple MINI techs who worked closely with a MINI engineer and they said the same thing. I mentioned it here and no one believed me, so I'm glad your first hand experience can clear the misconception up.
Some people around here seem to think the JCW is some exotic car with its motor being made of super-secret high performance materials.
#23
Yay....
I was told this by a couple MINI techs who worked closely with a MINI engineer and they said the same thing. I mentioned it here and no one believed me, so I'm glad your first hand experience can clear the misconception up.
Some people around here seem to think the JCW is some exotic car with its motor being made of super-secret high performance materials.
I was told this by a couple MINI techs who worked closely with a MINI engineer and they said the same thing. I mentioned it here and no one believed me, so I'm glad your first hand experience can clear the misconception up.
Some people around here seem to think the JCW is some exotic car with its motor being made of super-secret high performance materials.
the price tag induces this thought and the badge.
#25
definitely does, and intake tract, engine management tune also, and suspension and wheels etc etc... the heart is the same though. Just good to know that the same numbers will be achievable with a bigger compressor on board.