Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Max reliable power....

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  #1  
Old 10-05-2010 | 08:01 AM
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Max reliable power....

Hey all,

I'm new to these boards and am looking into picking up one soon.

I am curious as to who is running what kind of power levels reliably. Meaning no broken trans, axles, motor failing.

Also curious as to what has been done if those are failing to maximize the performance and reliability?

I know this sounds quite broad but what im intending on doing with the car is completely different than most have ever used it for from what im seeing.

Thanks!
_billy
 
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Old 10-05-2010 | 09:41 AM
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lol your gonna rally
 
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Old 10-05-2010 | 12:16 PM
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There isn't a reliable power that has been found yet. Just run it up till it blows and then start all over. But maybe we will see what the the countryman rally car is running and maybe try to emulate that.
 
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Old 10-05-2010 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Porthos
There isn't a reliable power that has been found yet. Just run it up till it blows and then start all over. But maybe we will see what the the countryman rally car is running and maybe try to emulate that.

was just watching videos of that thing.
 
  #5  
Old 10-05-2010 | 12:33 PM
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The r56 mini haven't made big power yet, because we just got real ecu tuning in the last few months.

There are a few minis that have been running around 250whp/275wtq reliably.
 
  #6  
Old 10-06-2010 | 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Porthos
There isn't a reliable power that has been found yet. Just run it up till it blows and then start all over. But maybe we will see what the the countryman rally car is running and maybe try to emulate that.
Reliable power is the factory spec!

Anything above factory spec and the first component to have a reduced life is the turbo, everybody is pushing the factory spec turbo out of it's efficiency range, asking it for more and more, and although at first it will deliver what you ask of it, (too a point) don't be surprised when it lets go early in it's life expectancy, and your left looking to blame someone, EG: the tuner! when in actual fact you should be looking no further than yourself.

Now the MILLION dollar question, how reliable is the rest of the engine/drivetrain when chasing BIG power?

Do you really want to be the pioneer and find out at what level the engine's components will finally call it a day and go on vacation!

Unless you've got the budget to not care, then be sensible and build it right the first time, don't trust to chance that lady luck will always be at your side, because when it goes wrong, you'll kick yourself for not following life's 7 P's, Here are the 7 P's to be remembered in life:
Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents **** Poor Performance!

In it's factory stock form it's quite a tough engine, that said, you've still got to remember that when you increase power your pushing the limits of what the factory stock internals were originally designed for, and the more power you build the more heat you produce, remember heat is the KILLER to all engines!

I believe most of you will be very happy with anything ranging from 200-250 WHP, anything after this and you should really be looking at spending a few $$$ on prevention, rather than a cure when it all goes horrifically wrong.

What you've got to look at is, these engines (N14) are all about low to mid range Power and Torque, and not really suitable for high RPM in their stock factory form, your all chasing that elusive magic BHP value figure, when what you should be chasing is the best amount of Torque, whilst sacrificing a few BHP.

If your looking at swapping your factory stock turbo for an aftermarket one, don't go too oversize, EG: GT2871RS, this particular turbo is WAY too BIG, for everyday driving situations from the otherwise factory stock engine, you will loose low down Torque and Power, and when the factory stock engine is producing enough exhaust gas velocity to initiate the spooling of this BIG turbo, you will have experienced turbo lag in the lower RPM range, and then when it does start to produce power for you, this will be short lived due to the asthmatic nature of the factory stock camshafts.

So is BIG power possible 300 +? Yes it is, however it comes at a premium price.
 
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Old 10-06-2010 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by czar
Reliable power is the factory spec!

Anything above factory spec and the first component to have a reduced life is the turbo, everybody is pushing the factory spec turbo out of it's efficiency range, asking it for more and more, and although at first it will deliver what you ask of it, (too a point) don't be surprised when it lets go early in it's life expectancy, and your left looking to blame someone, EG: the tuner! when in actual fact you should be looking no further than yourself.

Now the MILLION dollar question, how reliable is the rest of the engine/drivetrain when chasing BIG power?

Do you really want to be the pioneer and find out at what level the engine's components will finally call it a day and go on vacation!

Unless you've got the budget to not care, then be sensible and build it right the first time, don't trust to chance that lady luck will always be at your side, because when it goes wrong, you'll kick yourself for not following life's 7 P's, Here are the 7 P's to be remembered in life:
Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents **** Poor Performance!

In it's factory stock form it's quite a tough engine, that said, you've still got to remember that when you increase power your pushing the limits of what the factory stock internals were originally designed for, and the more power you build the more heat you produce, remember heat is the KILLER to all engines!

I believe most of you will be very happy with anything ranging from 200-250 WHP, anything after this and you should really be looking at spending a few $$$ on prevention, rather than a cure when it all goes horrifically wrong.

What you've got to look at is, these engines (N14) are all about low to mid range Power and Torque, and not really suitable for high RPM in their stock factory form, your all chasing that elusive magic BHP value figure, when what you should be chasing is the best amount of Torque, whilst sacrificing a few BHP.

If your looking at swapping your factory stock turbo for an aftermarket one, don't go too oversize, EG: GT2871RS, this particular turbo is WAY too BIG, for everyday driving situations from the otherwise factory stock engine, you will loose low down Torque and Power, and when the factory stock engine is producing enough exhaust gas velocity to initiate the spooling of this BIG turbo, you will have experienced turbo lag in the lower RPM range, and then when it does start to produce power for you, this will be short lived due to the asthmatic nature of the factory stock camshafts.

So is BIG power possible 300 +? Yes it is, however it comes at a premium price.
well spoken.

Like the b series Honda days, pay to play.
 
  #8  
Old 10-06-2010 | 08:12 AM
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I would assume the factory JCW engine could handle a bit more, if not a lot more power, than the S engine.
 
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by drewstermalloy
I would assume the factory JCW engine could handle a bit more, if not a lot more power, than the S engine.

the power can be gotten from both if were talking engine(no add ons like turbos or management) but the jcw will definitely handle it more adequately with its forged pieces.
 
  #10  
Old 10-06-2010 | 09:11 AM
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Mmm, let me put a misconception to rest once and for all, regarding the S and JCW engine internals.

The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.

How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.

And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
 
  #11  
Old 10-06-2010 | 09:15 AM
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Can I have some of that extra money you must have laying around in piles? I promise to use it wisely, (car parts of course)
 
  #12  
Old 10-06-2010 | 09:22 AM
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it's not extra/spare or indeed laying around, and I manage to spend it wisely myself.
 

Last edited by czar; 10-06-2010 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 10:05 AM
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Well let me think here. With everything it is a pay to play mentality but, how do you think the majority of people in the world get big power? They don't beat around the bush. They get in there and do it and well if it blows up you keep moving and start over. Ya it doesn't help that the parts to the MINI are freaking expensive but this motor is not only in the MINI it is also in Peugeots so look over that way and see what the pricesare. Its all about go big or go home.
 
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Old 10-06-2010 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by czar
Mmm, let me put a misconception to rest once and for all, regarding the S and JCW engine internals.

The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.

How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.

And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.

Excellent! and thank you for the correction, when you measured the pistons with a caliper were the measurements different for the different ratio or could it have been a thicker head gasket? Even the weight was the same?(regarding to metal type differences between the s and jcw)
 
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Old 10-06-2010 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Porthos
Its all about go big or go home.
+1
 
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Old 10-06-2010 | 10:35 AM
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Subscribe. Want to hear more re factory jcw internals vs s.
 
  #17  
Old 10-06-2010 | 10:40 AM
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The head gasket is 0.9mm there is an alternative which is 1.2mm, the JCW piston has a different crown height, this gives the slight reduction in CR of .5 of a whole point.
 
  #18  
Old 10-06-2010 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by czar
The head gasket is 0.9mm there is an alternative which is 1.2mm, the JCW piston has a different crown height, this gives the slight reduction in CR of .5 of a whole point.

What about the physical weight, obviously its going to be different but is the difference substantial to show a difference in material?
 
  #19  
Old 10-06-2010 | 10:59 AM
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The weight of the JCW piston VS the S is marginal, they both share the same material and design, and are both produced by Mahle.
 
  #20  
Old 10-06-2010 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by czar
The weight of the JCW piston VS the S is marginal, they both share the same material and design, and are both produced by Mahle.

gotcha gotcha, good to know. cant wait to see what can be done now that the internals are identical. external mods and tune make up the difference.
 
  #21  
Old 10-06-2010 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by czar
Mmm, let me put a misconception to rest once and for all, regarding the S and JCW engine internals.

The engine internals are exactly the same, the difference being the JCW has .5 of a point lower compression ratio pistons, that's it.

How do I know, well when I first bought my Mini, 2009 Clubman S, I too read all the marketing about the JCW having this and that better than the S engine, so in my quest for more power, and after much research I purchased a JCW engine (yes brand new) and guess what........after much careful side by side comparison (I already had a new S engine on the bench too) every component was identical, with as I have already mentioned, the pistons in the JCW are ever so slightly different to the S.

And so although the marketing tells you otherwise, actual side by side comparison tells me, and now i'm telling you guys different.
Yay....

I was told this by a couple MINI techs who worked closely with a MINI engineer and they said the same thing. I mentioned it here and no one believed me, so I'm glad your first hand experience can clear the misconception up.

Some people around here seem to think the JCW is some exotic car with its motor being made of super-secret high performance materials.
 
  #22  
Old 10-06-2010 | 01:05 PM
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There will always be sceptics and total non believers.
 
  #23  
Old 10-06-2010 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ThumperMCS
Yay....

I was told this by a couple MINI techs who worked closely with a MINI engineer and they said the same thing. I mentioned it here and no one believed me, so I'm glad your first hand experience can clear the misconception up.

Some people around here seem to think the JCW is some exotic car with its motor being made of super-secret high performance materials.

the price tag induces this thought and the badge.
 
  #24  
Old 10-06-2010 | 01:59 PM
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I get what you are saying about the internals, and correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the JCW have a larger turbo and brakes?
 
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Old 10-06-2010 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Slartibartfast
I get what you are saying about the internals, and correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the JCW have a larger turbo and brakes?


definitely does, and intake tract, engine management tune also, and suspension and wheels etc etc... the heart is the same though. Just good to know that the same numbers will be achievable with a bigger compressor on board.
 


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