I plan on changing out my rubber brake lines for stainless when I replace my rotors and pads. I want to install a racing brake fluid like Motul, Castrol, or Super Blue brake fluid when I do. I thought all there was involved was to drain the existing fluid and replace it all with the new.

A friend of mine who builds race cars said there is much more involved with this. He said racing brake fluid is dot 5 and because you cannot mix dot 3 or 4 with dot 5 you have to drain the system, flush it and replace EVERY bubber component in the brake system that comes into contact with brake fluid. Not just the lines but all the parts inside the caliper, master cylinder and every where else a rubber part exists.

Is this really the case? If so why wouldn't vendors (such as Webb, Madness) be recommending that and selling rebuild kits?

Are Motul RB600, ATE Super Blue, or Castro SRF dot 4 or 5?

 

Ate and Motul are DOT-4, so they're good to go. I really doubt that you want to go to DOT-5. Unless you're using this strictly as a race car, and unless you have a ton of money to burn regularly changing your fluid, you don't want the Castrol. From what I understand it doesn't absorb water at all, whereas the other ones are designed to absorb water, so that any water vapor present is just absorbed. The Castrol stuff doesn't absorb it, so you'll actually eventually get water in your lines over time, and then things will start to rust. You have to change it very regularly to avoid this. Just stick with the Ate (IMHO); it's good stuff, not too expensive, and easy to change if you switch between the blue and the regular on each change.

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Thanks brother, that's a load off my mind. Now if I could just find it at a local (Dallas) parts store, I want to do this mod by the end of the week and the holiday will surely delay any fluid I would order from a supplier.

Got Snow?

 

Good luck finding it at a local place. You might call around to serious performance auto shops (like actual race prepping places, NOT places that sell 22" chrome wheels). I also wonder if a high-end car dealer might have it, like a Porsche dealer maybe?

Good luck to you.

(No snow here, yet...you?)

 

I found mine at the local rice rocket shop.

 

>>Good luck finding it at a local place. You might call around to serious performance auto shops (like actual race prepping places, NOT places that sell 22" chrome wheels).
>>

I had fun on the phone today with the performance shops. They all cater to the muscle crowd, 60's and 70's era hot rods. Not a one even stocked brake fluid, all had to order. You'd think they never stop, at some time they have to let up on the hammer before they come to turn or an obstacle right?

Oh well guess I have to get on line. Thanks for your help all.

Stuart

 

>>Are Motul RB600, ATE Super Blue, or Castro SRF dot 4 or 5?

ATE Super Blue is "above DOT 4" according to it's label

Dry boiling point- 280 degrees centigrade (536 degrees Farenheit)
50 degrees centigrade (122 farenheit) above DOT 4

Wet boiling point- 200 degrees centigrade (392 degrees Farenheit)
45 degrees centigrade (113 farenheit) above DOT 4

Change brake fluid every two to three years or if the boiling point in the reserve containers drops to 180 degrees centigrade.

I changed out my brake fluid to Super Blue along with new SS brake lines, rotors, pads but kept the stock calipers.
Works great, no problems.

 

BRAKE FLUID DRY BOILING POINT WET BOILING POINT SUGGESTED LIST PRICE
AP SUPER 600 590oF 410oF $18.00/16.9oz.
CASTROL SRF 590oF 518oF $69.99/33.8oz.
NEO SUPER DOT 610 610oF 421oF $15.00/12oz.
MOTUL RACING 600
593oF 420oF $15.00/16.9oz.
MOTUL DOT 5.1 509oF 365oF $6.50/16.9oz.
ATE SUPER BLUE 536oF 392oF $11.99/33.8oz
VALVOLINE SYNPOWER 503oF 343oF $4.97/16.9oz.
ATE SL 500oF 329oF $7.95/16.9oz.
CASTROL LMA 450oF 311oF $3.50/16.9oz.
AP 551 528oF 288oF $12.50/16.9oz.
Stoptech Brake fluid comparo page
I have ATE Blue in everything, FWIW. Bleed often if you track, change q 2years.

 

FWIW back when I cruised Roadfly E30M3 board there was mention of 550 degree ford brake fluid for a truck which ran hi temps - PN C6AZ-19542-AA Dot3 HD. Don't know if this would work for MINI. Probably cheap.

 

Dot 5 is silicone based, and yes upgrading to a silicone (military spec. as it doesn't absorb water) would require a change over of your rubber and a complete draining of the system. But you don't want Dot 5. It doesn't perform as well as the super Dot 4 racing type fluids. You are on the right path, just don't put Dot 5 fluid in your system.

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BLUBELLE - 2003 MCS IB /W Premium, Sport, Cold pkgs, Lapis blue interior, Magnecor wires, Alta Pulley, Moss Skid Plate, Chrome Trim Interior

 

FYI:

ATE Super Blue and ATE TYP 200 has the same specs (above DOT 4 Dry 280C/536F & Wet 200C/392F). The only difference is TYP 200 is amber in color which makes it DOT approved, It's factory fill in all Porsches.

 

Here's an old racer's trick: Ford standard brake fluid has a higher DRY boiling point than ATE super blue, but it has a lower "wet" boiling point. As long as you replace the fluid once every six months or so (which you should do if you go to the track), just use the Ford stuff. It works great.

-early