Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Recirculation (DV/BOV) valve.

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  #51  
Old 04-17-2011, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigprfed22
At cruising speeds your in boost? I'm pretty much in vacuum at cruising speeds. I wonder what I am missing about this valve. It was not are tight so I need someone else to do the blow test So someone can see what I mean. Mike pull the sucker out it takes 10 min
I don't have tools here, i'll do it tomorrow. I know what you are talking about though and can see how it probably leaks air on all them. Just not sure if it's conical shape creates a seal when there is heat and pressure applied to it.
 
  #52  
Old 04-17-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by clnconcpts
It vents pressure to the atmosphere instead of back into the intake/turbo housing. Basically just to make noise.
 
  #53  
Old 04-17-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigprfed22
At cruising speeds your in boost? I'm pretty much in vacuum at cruising speeds. I wonder what I am missing about this valve. It was not are tight so I need someone else to do the blow test So someone can see what I mean. Mike pull the sucker out it takes 10 min
No still in vacuum but it is still higher than stock 1.5-2 psi closer to 0. When I get on the throttle it is about 2PSI higher than the stock valve.
 
  #54  
Old 04-17-2011, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike@Tech Division
It vents pressure to the atmosphere instead of back into the intake/turbo housing. Basically just to make noise.
There's also this as an option/upgrade over the stock DV:

http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-blow-off-valve.html

Any one had any experience with it?
 
  #55  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:14 PM
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For reference, i still want to make the change but am at a stand still because of the non air tight design. Has anyone else verified my findings?

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  #56  
Old 04-18-2011, 01:09 PM
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Right now the engine is too hot, but I'm beginning to think that I'm happy with the way it is working now I don't care to take it apart.
If you don't hear back from Mike for awhile, I'll go ahead and maybe pull it and check for the air loss, but as I say I'm both happy and reluctant at the same time. Good luck Big.
 
  #57  
Old 04-18-2011, 01:12 PM
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Thanks bud I just want to justify me putting it back on because the lack of diaphram will make the plunging action a million times quicker and smoother.

Originally Posted by Maugre
Right now the engine is too hot, but I'm beginning to think that I'm happy with the way it is working now I don't care to take it apart.
If you don't hear back from Mike for awhile, I'll go ahead and maybe pull it and check for the air loss, but as I say I'm both happy and reluctant at the same time. Good luck Big.
 
  #58  
Old 04-18-2011, 01:17 PM
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I'll pull it out later today before I leave the shop. I want to let the car cool down and I have a customers engine to pull right now.
 
  #59  
Old 04-18-2011, 01:18 PM
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K do the blow test and let me know what you think, since you have had yours on maybe the combination of heat w/pressure has sealed it and thats what im hoping for!
 
  #60  
Old 04-18-2011, 02:00 PM
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C'mon guys think about it logically, there is no way it can provide an air tight seal, and no amount of heat will do this, or it will have an interference resistance on the piston plunger, and slow even maybe stop it's action!

The reason quite a few, lets discuss BMW Mini here not VAG'S, are saying it's an improvement is quite simply, they will be feeling the smooth action of the valve piston VS the resistance of the rubber diaphragm, it's also quieter due to it's air control design.

When you install this valve on a stock engine with stock boost levels, there is a definite slowing of the spool time of the turbo (i've tested and measured this) however as it is so slight many owners may not notice this, as they will be feeling the smooth action of the valve piston.

Now when installed on an engine with increased boost pressure, (tune etc etc) the effects of the smooth operation are enhanced, and although people are impressed, it's only the difference between a resistance rubber diaphragm VS a free moving piston!

Now matter how you look at it, it will never ever seal as good as the stock factory rubber diaphragm recirculation valve, and when you fit a revised rated spring to your stock rubber diaphragm recirculation valve, this will give you a faster spool time, than the VAG valve!
 
  #61  
Old 04-18-2011, 02:06 PM
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Dont forget to add that it is already started the purge process as it is not a burst of flow, compared to a slight flow going to a major flow... if that makes sense.


Originally Posted by czar
The reason quite a few, lets discuss BMW Mini here not VAG'S, are saying it's an improvement is quite simply, they will be feeling the smooth action of the valve piston VS the resistance of the rubber diaphragm, it's also quieter due to it's air control design.
 
  #62  
Old 04-18-2011, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigprfed22
Dont forget to add that it is already started the purge process as it is not a burst of flow, compared to a slight flow going to a major flow... if that makes sense.
Makes perfect sense to me.
 
  #63  
Old 04-18-2011, 05:43 PM
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Ok so I pulled my DV back out and inspected the VAG internals again. Something I did not catch before was that the piston is tapered. So when it is forced shut the conical ring does allow for a good seal. I even blew air threw the piston to check.

However since it does get pushed in some what when it is installed the ring sits higher on this tapper and probably does not seal. Again I tested this too with it pushed in similar to it being installed. It blows air past the seal.

My guess is that the VW and Audi housing this VAG DV is intended for are slightly deeper. It would probably seal with a spacer added to give the MINI turbo housing depth, but we still don't have definitive proof the piston will seal against the housing then too.

Lame now I get to listen to the stock one again. Thanks for bursting my bubble.
 
  #64  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:16 PM
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Humm, took the MINI out for a little spin, a couple of hours ago, for a quick errand. The beastie wasn't warmed up to operating temp yet, maybe about 190 deg. water temp. Started a good pull in third, and the cel lamp on the tach came on, yellow, half engine. Got home and read the codes. P303e, and P2885. What I could find on P2885 was 'boost pressure deviation'. Sticky new VAG valve, air loss? Couldn't find anything on P303e.
I'll try this again later fully warmed up, weather permitting, supposed to snow again, bugger .
 
  #65  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Maugre
Humm, took the MINI out for a little spin, a couple of hours ago, for a quick errand. The beastie wasn't warmed up to operating temp yet, maybe about 190 deg. water temp. Started a good pull in third, and the cel lamp on the tach came on, yellow, half engine. Got home and read the codes. P303e, and P2885. What I could find on P2885 was 'boost pressure deviation'. Sticky new VAG valve, air loss? Couldn't find anything on P303e.
I'll try this again later fully warmed up, weather permitting, supposed to snow again, bugger .
I used to get P303e all the time, never knew what it was...P0303 is cyl #3 misfire though, I guess it'd be silly to assume they are related. However I recently had P0303 and P303e concurrently so maybe my assumption isn't that crazy?
 
  #66  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:28 PM
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Thanks Thumper, I'm gonna try and dig a little more myself, bugs me, now I want to get a list of all of 'em.
 
  #67  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Maugre
Thanks Thumper, I'm gonna try and dig a little more myself, bugs me, now I want to get a list of all of 'em.
czar sent me a pretty comprehensive list....however it still lacks a lot of these R56 specific codes, which the 56 seems to lovvvvve to spit out.

Here you go:
http://www.clubmanregister.co.uk/vie...hp?f=14&t=1007
 
  #68  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:12 PM
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  #69  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:22 PM
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i wonder if the letter at the end of the code is a hexadecimal digit, rather than a letter to indicate "relation", ie. 202a and 202c are related.
 
  #70  
Old 04-19-2011, 05:08 AM
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Yup, just a couple of codes . Never ask questions you don't want to get answers to. Of course, the ones I had weren't listed . Thanks Thumper. . Kudo's to Czar .
 

Last edited by Maugre; 04-19-2011 at 06:36 AM.
  #71  
Old 04-19-2011, 06:12 AM
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I feel like we've made a break through here
 
  #72  
Old 04-19-2011, 07:48 AM
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im still a little confused?! can someone summerize what just happened? should i replace my spring? change the whole thing to the 710d? block it off altogether? i like to feel a nice strong pull from the turbo while being my DD. Will this make anything better for the motor itself? heat sink or what nots?
 
  #73  
Old 04-19-2011, 08:07 AM
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There is no harm done in switching this valve out... read through and determine what you are looking for

Originally Posted by swopey
im still a little confused?! can someone summerize what just happened? should i replace my spring? change the whole thing to the 710d? block it off altogether? i like to feel a nice strong pull from the turbo while being my DD. Will this make anything better for the motor itself? heat sink or what nots?
 
  #74  
Old 04-19-2011, 08:28 AM
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OK, engine fully warmed up, same codes, hard pull in second.
Time to let it cool, and take it out, and take a peek, don't like the 'boost pressure deviation' .
 
  #75  
Old 04-19-2011, 08:31 AM
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if its "full engine power not available" (half shaded engine light)its tripping the check sum between the sensors... which auto corrects itself. I had this when i was running the valve closed, when i scanned my car with the bmw/mini dealership icid(factory scan tool)... i have my connections the code never appeared in the logs, which are only cleared by an icid type tool.

Originally Posted by Maugre
OK, engine fully warmed up, same codes, hard pull in second.
Time to let it cool, and take it out, and take a peek, don't like the 'boost pressure deviation' .
 


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