More than a $25 spring that's for sure but it does work well.

IMO it will last well beyond the stock diaphram and if your are on a tuned map it will hold the boost.

 

Broken piston....

You're going to start to see a lot of it....mark my words

 

Is this due to the boost cut causing misfires?

 

Me in particular or just everyone regarding the R56S?

 

I am pretty sure he meant the R56 in general.

Just like the R53 and most factory spec internals of other manufacture's engines, the R56 will need upgraded internals to handle added boost past a certain point. Unfortunatly that threshold is not that high on the MCS and only marginally better on the JCW.

Don't get me wrong with a good tune the engine should be able to run fine boosting around 18-20 psi and make decent power, but I think that's about the limit for now. With a larger turbo it would probably be less.

Just keep in mind that MINI used the current JCW turbo on the 10.5 compression ratio MCS when developing the JCW. They were blowing engines and have complete control of the ECU and the full ability to tune it.

Although with the Alta AP or the Dimsport we have some flexibility and can tune outside the regulations of CARB, EPA, ect., we still do not have full control of the ECU and can only do so much before the engine just mechanicly fails.

 

No, my boost cuts were never associated with misfires.


Everyone.

^^what he said!

Keep in mind I have been running various tunes and high boost for over 2 years now. Most people have only recently begun running high boost, thanks to the AcccesPort. You will start to see the weaknesses in these motors as more of those people put miles on. And as far as doing turbo swaps....I'd say forget it unless you want to touch the internals. I'm still running a JCW turbo, and will not get rid of it....but I do want to run a few less psi this time around. I'll take 10-15 less whp in exchange for longevity....

 

Maybe you can help me out. Our setups are similar (except my exhaust is a bit more restrictive than yours). I have been overboosting (to almost 23psi, then it often dumps) and Jan says it is not a result of the Stage One AP tune which he dyno-tweaked a month or so ago. I also want to bring the boost down under 20. Do you think I have wastegate problems? Diverter valve issues? I'm not as expert as I would like to be on the internals of turbos, but I do know that 22+psi scares the heck out of me.

Also, one more question: Is the JCW turbo a direct bolt-on for any R56?

 

The MAP sensor cuts above 22...this is a well known issue.

Get the boost down...should help. But depending on what he tweaks you might still get spikes that reach 22.

And yes, the JCW turbo is a direct bolt on and its a great way to go if you want more power

 

Thanks

 

Has anyone tried the the 710D with the Alta spring?

 

GKP, this is a very slippery slope for a track oriented car. Get your boost and HP down otherwise you will be limping home or breaking stuff and towing it home.

As you know, I am already having tons of issues without too much over boosting, mostly from track stress. I know eventually I will have to buy a real track oriented car such as a cayman.

 

So what are you going to replace them with? any other upgrades?

 

I was going to go full custom with Jan, and try to do a 1.8L with it....but its my only car and did not have the time to not have a car for a month or so, I went with another stock motor.


Will be installing a meth kit shortly to help keep things cool and safe in there though...

 

Why replace the whole motor? Did it damage more that just the piston?

 

Scored the cylinder wall...

When there is piston failure MINI elects to replace the entire motor. The entire long block, or what they call "short engine"

 

Right behind you with an aqua mist setup

 

Oh, so just the block, and pistons were replaced. Did you get it done under warranty???

 

Block, crank rods, pistons, head etc. Head to oil pan.... What normal people call a "long block," MINI calls a short engine.

And as far as the 2nd question......I prefer not to answer

 

you should have gotten the "long engine" with the two extra cylinders.

 

I know! haha an S54 woulda been nice....

 

I know. I've been looking for "the line" and I know I am a bit over it right now -- I found that out at LRP on Tuesday. What I am trying to do is a few things to dial back the boost. What are your boost numbers right now?

 

Solving this issue is as easy as istalling a spacer between the DV and the turbo.
Mini DV Valve: 17mm
VAG DV Valve: 21mm
So a 4 mm spacer keeps the piston on the VAG DV fully closed, I did it myself and is a win win situation, because is BY FAR much more better DV than the oem if you run more than 20 psi as I do.

 

The valve leaks internally, what are you referring to ?

 

Sorry but no.
First, English is not my primary language, so, forgive me if I make mistakes, I will try to explain myself as clear as possible.
The valve, with the piston in his relaxed normal position doesn't leak.
Pressurized air travels from the holes in the top of the piston to the bottom of the piston generating a back pressure that keep the valve and piston sealed.
Is not the spring that keeps the valve sealed, it is the bakpressure, that's the purpose of the holes, that's why holes in the VAG valve are bigger than the little ones in the PSA/Mini valve (apart from a much better design and the remove of the diafragm).
The VAG Valve measure from top to bottom 21 mm, PSA/Mini measure 17 mm
This 4 mm difference are the ones that makes the VAG valve leak, because the valve installed straight to the turbo case keeps the piston 4 mm back from his relaxed and sealed position.
Both valves were designed to be installed keeping the distance from top to bottom. If you push the piston 4 mm and leave it this way, valve keeps leaking from the bottom of the piston, and air travels trough the holes of the second crown/ring.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the hole on the turbo to the top, and you will see that it is 17 mm, put the VAG valve into it and you will see that you have to push it a little to make it fit, you are compressing the piston the 4 mm difference. From that's 4 mm is were the pressurized air travels and leak.
So, if you put a custom made spacer that makes the VAG valve fits the way is meant to be, it works perfect and much better than the oem one.
I tell you this because I learned the hard way trying to make the oem valve works in my big turbo project, I tried many different springs, some works better than others, but in the end, none of them works better than the VAG valve installed the right way.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...argentina.html

 

Its actually an electronic solenoid which keeps the valve open or closed, the spring assists in the returning of the valve. If you remove the valve and blow on it you will see the punger can not make an air tight seal against the tapered seal ring. Take it out and test it. air doesnt travel through the holes, the holes are to remove air resistance during the action of opening and closing. You wont know their is a leak until you test it as by ecu if there is an internal leak the ecu will leave the waste gate closed to achieve target boost. The plunger does not make an air tight seal against the tapered ring becaue the ring isnt a true circle, on top of the there is no rubber seal around the piston, it cannot be pressure tight. the plunger doesnt actually go in the bypass hole it sits against the hole lip. The factory valve has a tapered rubber seal which fits into a groove on the compressor housing.