Drivetrain Check this out exhaust manifold.
#53
For those of you wondering...removing the factory exhaust manifold/turbo etc isn't really that difficult. I just swapped new of both onto my car with very little difficulty. The hardest part was honest the stupid factory heatshielding. The rest is fairly simple. 11mm nuts hold the manifold on.
some people say to remove the turbo first, but I think it was easier to remove the whole assembly, THEN unbolt the turbo.
Here's the order I did things in
-Unhook and remove coolant reservoir (just easier to have out of the way spills coolant though lol)
-Remove intake tubes, unplug diverter valve, vacuum lines from wastegate and whatnot
-Remove upper and lower 02 sensors (use the right special socket!)
-Unhook battery if you haven't already(found this out the hard way when the lower heatshield made some sparks lol)
-Loosen bracket by alternator so you can twist that out of the way(clearance for heatshields and downpipe)
-Remove upper and lower heatshields(craploads of 10mm bolts...)
-Unbolt and remove downpipe. This is fairly straightforward. Getting the flange to slide off the turbo can be tricky though.
-Unbolt coolant lines on side of turbo and oil feed on top of turbo
-Unbolt small 8mm bolt i think it was that holds oil return line on bottom of turbo, pull down to remove that hose/line out of the way
-unbolt all 10 exhaust manifold nuts. They are 11mm and you will need a deep socket so you don't strip them at least to start them. the hardest two are the ones under the turbo on the bottom right. That's why you moved the lower oil line out of the way you can feed an extension through there.
-Shimmy manifold with turbo attached off of head, making sure you have EVERYTHING disconnected, then with some finesse get the angle just right and slide it out of the engine bay. This takes some attempts to get the angle just right DON'T force it, when you get it just right it comes right out.
I replaced a ton of oil lines, coolant lines, etc etc when i did this for other reasons. The exhaust manifold gasket seems reuseable but I had a new one just in case. I would def recommend replacing the downpipe gasket, the o-ring on the lower oil line that slides into and bolts to the turbo, and all the copper crush washers on the coolant and upper oil lines.
I'm sure I missed a few things, but it's probably a good afternoon job if you've never done it before. Just take your time and keep track of what goes where. I always use plastic baggies and a sharpie.
some people say to remove the turbo first, but I think it was easier to remove the whole assembly, THEN unbolt the turbo.
Here's the order I did things in
-Unhook and remove coolant reservoir (just easier to have out of the way spills coolant though lol)
-Remove intake tubes, unplug diverter valve, vacuum lines from wastegate and whatnot
-Remove upper and lower 02 sensors (use the right special socket!)
-Unhook battery if you haven't already(found this out the hard way when the lower heatshield made some sparks lol)
-Loosen bracket by alternator so you can twist that out of the way(clearance for heatshields and downpipe)
-Remove upper and lower heatshields(craploads of 10mm bolts...)
-Unbolt and remove downpipe. This is fairly straightforward. Getting the flange to slide off the turbo can be tricky though.
-Unbolt coolant lines on side of turbo and oil feed on top of turbo
-Unbolt small 8mm bolt i think it was that holds oil return line on bottom of turbo, pull down to remove that hose/line out of the way
-unbolt all 10 exhaust manifold nuts. They are 11mm and you will need a deep socket so you don't strip them at least to start them. the hardest two are the ones under the turbo on the bottom right. That's why you moved the lower oil line out of the way you can feed an extension through there.
-Shimmy manifold with turbo attached off of head, making sure you have EVERYTHING disconnected, then with some finesse get the angle just right and slide it out of the engine bay. This takes some attempts to get the angle just right DON'T force it, when you get it just right it comes right out.
I replaced a ton of oil lines, coolant lines, etc etc when i did this for other reasons. The exhaust manifold gasket seems reuseable but I had a new one just in case. I would def recommend replacing the downpipe gasket, the o-ring on the lower oil line that slides into and bolts to the turbo, and all the copper crush washers on the coolant and upper oil lines.
I'm sure I missed a few things, but it's probably a good afternoon job if you've never done it before. Just take your time and keep track of what goes where. I always use plastic baggies and a sharpie.
#54
#55
#57
#58
You may be able to find info on doing this to an r53. It's not as involved but it may help understand what needs to be done.
#59
Service mode allows you to have more room to work in front of the engine. To put a R56 in service mode you need to remove the front bumper cover, front bumper, head lights, the bolts holding the upper metal section of the core support, and the bumper crush tubes. This will allow you to pull the core support forward giving you more room. It sounds like a lot of work but it's really only about 30 min if your not familiar with it.
You may be able to find info on doing this to an r53. It's not as involved but it may help understand what needs to be done.
You may be able to find info on doing this to an r53. It's not as involved but it may help understand what needs to be done.
When I bought my JCW turbo and swapped them, I literally thought it was going to be an easy hr job lol. Thought to myself, well the turbo is right in the front and totally accessible, its gotta be simple....but quickly found thats not the case....I do not see how its possible to reach everything u need to if you do not do the steps which Mike mentions above. We had no clue what to do, so we just started pulling crap off till we had room to do what we needed lol. Nothing terribly hard, if you can install an exhaust, I'm sure u can R&R the turbo/manifold, but its just a pain in the ***. This is why I said earlier, I would not do all of it just to put in a new manifold.
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#63
I had the JWC tuning kit installed a month or so back. It came with the manifold in question. I asked to see the 2 of them together when the stock one was off. I was told the new one was a JWC manifold, although the one shown here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do...tor=N14&arch=0 is like my stock manifold.
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#68
I would recommend reading the last paragraph or 2 from link posted by Porthos in post #3 from this thread. It explains why a slight difference in exhaust manifold design makes quite a difference in performance on an engine with a twin scroll turbocharger. I have no way to know which of the things done with the JCW kit produced what % of the benefits from the kit, although I am quite sure that the Engine management software update is responsible for MOST of it. As most know, BMW Mini is the only one modifying the software for the '11 and '12 Mini's. I chose to go this route, as I wanted a JCW car with an automatic and with the JCW tuning kit and other mods I am doing is the closest that I can come.
#69
Mine is part number 11657568591 which is from the JCW Tuning Kit and looks like the one on the left ie standard MCS but I presume is made of different materials to cope with extra heat as the blurb says and maybe is better finished off for better flow.
Not sure what the one on the right is? Factory JCW Manifold? Can you read part number on it as I cannot.
Not sure what the one on the right is? Factory JCW Manifold? Can you read part number on it as I cannot.
#72
#74
Thought I would bump this old thread. Any updates, Porthos?
Also, any confirmation this will work for an N18 engine?
RealOEM shows different part numbers for pre- and post-August 2011 exhaust manifolds:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...45&hg=11&fg=50
Also, any confirmation this will work for an N18 engine?
RealOEM shows different part numbers for pre- and post-August 2011 exhaust manifolds:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...45&hg=11&fg=50
#75